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Old 27 March 2013, 12:58 AM   #1
mcavana
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I stand corrected...

My full time business right now basically revolves around buying and selling gold. In another thread someone asked why buy white gold rolexes when it just looks like stainless steel? My basic point in that thread was that stainless steel and white gold pieces with the same finish are identical.

Well, turns out I was right, AND wrong. In my stores I see white gold and stainless pieces come in all the time. NORMALLY there is no way you can tell what is gold and what is stainless just by looking at it. You have to test it with the acids. This is because of how most white gold pieces are made.

White gold is a mixture of gold (that is ALWAYS yellow) and other metals that give it a mostly white appearance. 99% of white gold when properly mixed still has a slight yellow tint to it. Because of this, the pieces are plated in Rhodium. This makes the pieces bright white, identical to stainless steel. This is why most white gold jewelry will start to darken a little after long periods of use. It is basically the Rhodium plating wearing off. Luckily to get the piece back to looking like new, all you have to do is get the Rhodium plating redone.

So yes, most white gold pieces in good condition are identical to stainless steel.

HOWEVER. The other day I had an opportunity to try on a few white gold rolex watches. They were very BRIGHT white in color. You could clearly see the difference between the white gold rolex and the stainless rolex. This is because Rolex makes its own white gold. They make a much higher quality white gold then most jewelry makers. Their white gold is truely white and does not need rhodium plating. In fact it is whiter and brighter all by itself.

For me, Rolex white gold still isn't a big enough visual difference for me to justify the price.... That said, if I could afford one, you can bet your ass I would have one! :)
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:04 AM   #2
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That's right on buddy
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:04 AM   #3
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I feel there is a visual difference between white gold and stainless steel and something that can be spotted on a Rolex and on jewelry. I was also told by a friend, who also works for an authorized Rolex dealer, that Rolex gold is actually 19 karat but is stated as 18k.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:12 AM   #4
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No, it is still 18 karat, or 75% pure gold. And their 14 karat is exactly 14 karat or 58.5% pure gold.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:14 AM   #5
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:14 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcavana View Post
My full time business right now basically revolves around buying and selling gold. In another thread someone asked why buy white gold rolexes when it just looks like stainless steel? My basic point in that thread was that stainless steel and white gold pieces with the same finish are identical.

Well, turns out I was right, AND wrong. In my stores I see white gold and stainless pieces come in all the time. NORMALLY there is no way you can tell what is gold and what is stainless just by looking at it. You have to test it with the acids. This is because of how most white gold pieces are made.

White gold is a mixture of gold (that is ALWAYS yellow) and other metals that give it a mostly white appearance. 99% of white gold when properly mixed still has a slight yellow tint to it. Because of this, the pieces are plated in Rhodium. This makes the pieces bright white, identical to stainless steel. This is why most white gold jewelry will start to darken a little after long periods of use. It is basically the Rhodium plating wearing off. Luckily to get the piece back to looking like new, all you have to do is get the Rhodium plating redone.

So yes, most white gold pieces in good condition are identical to stainless steel.

HOWEVER. The other day I had an opportunity to try on a few white gold rolex watches. They were very BRIGHT white in color. You could clearly see the difference between the white gold rolex and the stainless rolex. This is because Rolex makes its own white gold. They make a much higher quality white gold then most jewelry makers. Their white gold is truely white and does not need rhodium plating. In fact it is whiter and brighter all by itself.

For me, Rolex white gold still isn't a big enough visual difference for me to justify the price.... That said, if I could afford one, you can bet your ass I would have one! :)
18KT Gold is still 18kt no matter who makes it and has the same scrap value.Today Rolex White Gold mix for (18K) is 75% pure Gold the other alloys a 25% mixture of Palladium, silver,and tiny bit of Platinum and the rest copper or zinc, Rolex white gold has been not Rhodium plated in any way for the past 10-15 years or so.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SWISSAHOLICS View Post
I feel there is a visual difference between white gold and stainless steel and something that can be spotted on a Rolex and on jewelry. I was also told by a friend, who also works for an authorized Rolex dealer, that Rolex gold is actually 19 karat but is stated as 18k.
I would doubt that if it was over the 750 assay mark it would have to state it on the product assay mark.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:15 AM   #7
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very cool observation... thanks for sharing.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:19 AM   #8
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My only question is when Jocke posts pictures of his old Datejust "beater" watch, the white gold bezel looks quite yellow. The thread he posted about cleaning it he even talks about it.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:23 AM   #9
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Interesting stuff. I remember reading that thread. Thanks for the info!
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:25 AM   #10
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I recently bought this ring which is Stuller X1 alloy, exceptionally white, not rhodium plated and not needing it. I know it won't show any different in this photo, but I just want to state that there are alloys that don't need to be plated. Knowing Rolex's reputation I'm not surprised that they use a palladium alloy and the gold is very white.

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Old 27 March 2013, 01:29 AM   #11
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Very interesting particularly 18 carat being 75 percent pure gold. I assumed it was higher than that.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWISSAHOLICS View Post
I feel there is a visual difference between white gold and stainless steel and something that can be spotted on a Rolex and on jewelry. I was also told by a friend, who also works for an authorized Rolex dealer, that Rolex gold is actually 19 karat but is stated as 18k.
I doubt rolex would give you 19k and tell you you it's 18k
They have some quality control probs but not at that rate
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:37 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by RolexplorerII View Post
Very interesting particularly 18 carat being 75 percent pure gold. I assumed it was higher than that.
18/24=0.75 (75%)...just divide the karat # by 24 and you have the percentage.

24 karat gold is pure (well, 99.9% pure) gold.

10/24=41.67%

14/24=58.33%

...and so on.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:42 AM   #14
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We all can make a mistake - it's good to admit it when one happens.

The WG Rolexes definitely differ from other WG watches - but few people lay them down beside a SS model to compare.
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:47 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Miamipawnsab View Post
I doubt rolex would give you 19k and tell you you it's 18k
They have some quality control probs but not at that rate
Agree that their custom smelting/alloying process would have finer control than that. But as you may know, an 18k marked item can vary by some slight % up/down. The assayed yield of each gold melt batch has taught me that not all 18k marked jewelry is equal. (or other marks like 10k and 14k)...
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Old 27 March 2013, 01:59 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 77T View Post
Agree that their custom smelting/alloying process would have finer control than that. But as you may know, an 18k marked item can vary by some slight % up/down. The assayed yield of each gold melt batch has taught me that not all 18k marked jewelry is equal. (or other marks like 10k and 14k)...
Paul, Very true ! Almost all the real heavy cuban link stuff from down south that's marked 14kt. actually melt assays at around 12kt. Most of the high end manufactures are usually pretty spot on on their stuff, but others not so much... !!

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Old 27 March 2013, 02:07 AM   #17
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I understand what your saying about the the marking on some jewelry being a little up or down on an assay but Im just said I doubt that rolex after all there expensive equipment can be making those mistakes but anyone can be wrong nothing perfect ..
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Old 27 March 2013, 02:10 AM   #18
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Most of those Cuban linked chains are not made by any specific company but by individual jewelers . All the chains I sell thru my store that are Cuban link I but them thru my x ray and assay them . It's not right to sell someone a 14kt that is under carat that's just bad business
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Old 27 March 2013, 02:13 AM   #19
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No offense was intended to anyone just my opinion
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Old 27 March 2013, 02:24 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by 77T View Post
Agree that their custom smelting/alloying process would have finer control than that. But as you may know, an 18k marked item can vary by some slight % up/down. The assayed yield of each gold melt batch has taught me that not all 18k marked jewelry is equal. (or other marks like 10k and 14k)...
The gerneral rule that gold buyers use:

10k is supposed to be 41.7% pure gold. The average assay though is 39%.

14k is supposed to be 58.5% pure gold. The average assay though is 56%.

18k is supposed to be 75% pure gold. The average assay though is 73%.

When calculating pricing for buying gold, the average assay % are what is used for calculations.
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Old 27 March 2013, 02:33 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by mcavana View Post
The gerneral rule that gold buyers use:

10k is supposed to be 41.7% pure gold. The average assay though is 39%.

14k is supposed to be 58.5% pure gold. The average assay though is 56%.

18k is supposed to be 75% pure gold. The average assay though is 73%.

When calculating pricing for buying gold, the average assay % are what is used for calculations.
Or if they are one of those Pop Up on the corner Gold buyers even less !! Just my experience. Been in the Gold buying biz since 1970's !

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Old 27 March 2013, 02:35 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Miamipawnsab View Post
Most of those Cuban linked chains are not made by any specific company but by individual jewelers . All the chains I sell thru my store that are Cuban link I but them thru my x ray and assay them . It's not right to sell someone a 14kt that is under carat that's just bad business
Fully agree !!

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Old 27 March 2013, 02:40 AM   #23
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I understand what your saying about the the marking on some jewelry being a little up or down on an assay but Im just said I doubt that rolex after all there expensive equipment can be making those mistakes but anyone can be wrong nothing perfect ..
I've assayed some of the stretched out gold Rolex bands and a few over polished gold bezels and so far they have all come back pretty much spot on true karat content. Don't always see that from other jewelery manufacturers.

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Old 27 March 2013, 04:07 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by gt3pilot View Post
I've assayed some of the stretched out gold Rolex bands and a few over polished gold bezels and so far they have all come back pretty much spot on true karat content. Don't always see that from other jewelery manufacturers.

-Scott B.
Sorry but anything that's gold or any other precious metal and has been stamped with a official assay office stamp.It will comply to whatever the precious metal content its stamped for no matter who made it..
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Old 27 March 2013, 04:13 AM   #25
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I prefer SS to WG simply because it is stronger and more resistant to dinging.
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Old 27 March 2013, 04:29 AM   #26
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My full time business right now basically revolves around buying and selling gold. In another thread someone asked why buy white gold rolexes when it just looks like stainless steel? My basic point in that thread was that stainless steel and white gold pieces with the same finish are identical.

Well, turns out I was right, AND wrong. In my stores I see white gold and stainless pieces come in all the time. NORMALLY there is no way you can tell what is gold and what is stainless just by looking at it. You have to test it with the acids. This is because of how most white gold pieces are made.

White gold is a mixture of gold (that is ALWAYS yellow) and other metals that give it a mostly white appearance. 99% of white gold when properly mixed still has a slight yellow tint to it. Because of this, the pieces are plated in Rhodium. This makes the pieces bright white, identical to stainless steel. This is why most white gold jewelry will start to darken a little after long periods of use. It is basically the Rhodium plating wearing off. Luckily to get the piece back to looking like new, all you have to do is get the Rhodium plating redone.

So yes, most white gold pieces in good condition are identical to stainless steel.

HOWEVER. The other day I had an opportunity to try on a few white gold rolex watches. They were very BRIGHT white in color. You could clearly see the difference between the white gold rolex and the stainless rolex. This is because Rolex makes its own white gold. They make a much higher quality white gold then most jewelry makers. Their white gold is truely white and does not need rhodium plating. In fact it is whiter and brighter all by itself.

For me, Rolex white gold still isn't a big enough visual difference for me to justify the price.... That said, if I could afford one, you can bet your ass I would have one! :)
Mate if you are after something whiter and brighter, check out the PT DD, i am sure you do be impressed when you see it in person. Cheers! .. James
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Old 27 March 2013, 04:29 AM   #27
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Sorry but anything that's gold or any other precious metal and has been stamped with a official assay office stamp.It will comply to whatever the precious metal content its stamped for no matter who made it..
I agree Peter - but most of our domestic gold here in US doesn't get an assay mark.
The EU is far ahead on regulating that matter
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Old 27 March 2013, 04:33 AM   #28
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Interesting info on gold. I had no idea about the differences. Thanks for the 411
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Old 27 March 2013, 05:34 AM   #29
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Sorry but anything that's gold or any other precious metal and has been stamped with a official assay office stamp.It will comply to whatever the precious metal content its stamped for no matter who made it..
Peter,

As Paul stated, that may be true in the EU and overseas, but not in the USA. Been in the refining(actual refinery, not just buying gold) biz for many years and have seen a lot of stuff that's stamped comes back lower karat or not karat gold at all. We really don't have official assayers here in the USA. Years back they enacted the "Plumb" gold law, but still not really enforced. I wish it was that easy here in the US, so we wouldn't have to protect ourselves from fraudulent karat gold markings.

-Scott B.
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Old 27 March 2013, 05:38 AM   #30
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