When using lighter to adjust link on Tudor, should I remove the watch case first?

[filtrans]

Hi

I'm planning to lengthen the bracelet on my Black Bay 36. I've read that some use a lighter (torch style so it can be focused) to soften the loctite on the screws.

I'm worried that the watch mechanism/case/dial might get heat damage. Should I remove the watch case first? (which might be harder than just adjusting the bracelet since the tolerance on the Black Bay 36 steel bracelet is pretty tight)

Or can I just heat up the bracelet while it is still attached the watch case?

Thank you very much.

[aussiejoe]

You are heating the specific area on the link for a few seconds only. No more. Certainly not so much that heat will transfer the length of the other links and into the case.

[GreatScott]

Never heard of this, and never had a problem removing the screws. Might be Overkill

[yxc145]

don't think you need to do that. A firm twist of the screw driver will get those screws off. Those are micro screws with only a little loctite. Won't be hard

[05carbondrz]

High quality screwdrivers are the most important thing,No Harbor Freight Junk.

[Irydium]

+1 on the high quality screwdriver. Make sure you have a screwdriver with a hollow ground tip to ensure full engagement in the screw slot. My AD used a chisel tip one and 3 of my screws were visibly deformed, had to swap screws from my unused links to fix.

And instead of the lighter I just dipped the link/screws that I needed to remove in hot water for about 30 seconds to heat it up and then they all came out smoothly.

[ScottyC]

Try a heat gun, or even a blow dryer. The heat gun worked great for me. Definitely need a high quality, hollow ground, screwdriver. Do not even attempt this without one.

[Nikrnic]

Originally Posted by ScottyC

Try a heat gun, or even a blow dryer. The heat gun worked great for me. Definitely need a high quality, hollow ground, screwdriver. Do not even attempt this without one.

Agree 100%

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[filtrans]

Where can I buy a high quality hollow ground screw driver for my black bay 36? Any suggestions? I believe the Black Bay 36 needs a 1.4mm head.

Thank you

[ScottyC]

Originally Posted by filtrans

Where can I buy a high quality hollow ground screw driver for my black bay 36? Any suggestions? I believe the Black Bay 36 needs a 1.4mm head.

Thank you

Horotec Set of 10 Stainless Steel T-Type Watchmaker Screwdrivers MSA-01.207

[Brian Page]

Use a hair dryer

[Brian Page]

Originally Posted by Brian Page

Use a hair dryer

Most of the time I don't even use heat because I have the correct screwdriver which is the key. If you have that you won't slip or twist the screw socket.

[marcusp23]

I got a great set of small screwdrivers at Home Depot

[RolexEDC]

I use a heat gun, y the hell a torch LMAO

[simon aus]

don't use a lighter

remove the bracelet
place it in the sun on a towel.
let it absorb some natural sun heat.
cold is your enemy.

if you don't want to remove the bracelet wear it on your wrist out in the sun for a while.

then correct screwdriver as recommended.
and obviously correct loctite once finished.

i think rolex recommended is 222, maybe purple from memory,
i've used 243, but i wouldn't recommend 243 as it requires more torque for removal.
(i wanted something more permanent ) thats blue.
if it's not labelled but comes out red, best not to use it.

[Glidelock]

Originally Posted by yxc145

don't think you need to do that. A firm twist of the screw driver will get those screws off. Those are micro screws with only a little loctite. Won't be hard

I’ve broken 2 screwdriver tips and marred many of screw heads specifically on Rolex oyster bracelets that were on brand new bracelets in my past before realizing that a heat source is absolutely necessary! I mean don’t get me wrong, your gonna get the first three off...no problem. It’s that last one that’s just not gonna budge...then click, the screwdrivers head bends or breaks, which results in it slipping out of the slot...and the screw head gets marred as the top of the driver slides down the polished edge of multiple links leaving you with a nice little lesson for the day! I’ve been there before and have chosen not to repeat!

Originally Posted by GreatScott

Never heard of this, and never had a problem removing the screws. Might be Overkill

1. If it were overkill then it would not have been the Direct Instuctions from Rolex in their literature to AD’s and watchmakers for decades, on how to appropriately soften up the loctite before attempting to loosen up the screw with the 1.7 mm Flat Cut Screw Driver aka Rolex 2100 tool.

2. As far as hurting your case or movement, it should not be an issue for 2 reasons:

A. You will only be holding link edge under the flame for approx. 2-3 seconds...which I assure you your watch movement can take...if it can survive a pot of boiling water and being frozen in the freezer...and yes, it really can survive that stuff! And...

B. Logically you would be heating the link edge from the inside of the bracelet. Which means the case will be underneath your flame anyway, and since flame rise up, your case simply is not a factor of concern here!

Additionally, I will tell you from the personal experience of having done this many times over the years, the flames will not leave even an inkling of perminent tarnishing on your bracelet! It’s a million times faster and more efficient then using any type of heat gun or hair dryer, and spreads far less heat around the watch! Takes about 2-3 seconds...period!

That said, don’t do anything until you either get a Rolex 2100 or the next best thing...which is a Panerai OEM spec 1.6 Flat Cut screwdriver which will cost you all of $18 US at http://Panatime.com. I own both the Rolex 2100 which will cost you well over $100 if you can find one, as well as the Panatime version I’ve referenced above. It’s the closest thing I’ve ever seen to Rolex specs on the 2100, and the price is pretty great!

[Glidelock]

***Correction to my above post*** Since your watch is in fact a Tudor, and not a Rolex you will need a different sized Flat Cut screwdriver. If not mistaken...I believe my Tudor BB uses a 1.4 mm blade, which I know is also available for around $18 from the same source as referenced above.

[watchwatcher]

Give the screw a try before you put heat to it...you might not have to use heat at all.

[yxc145]

Originally Posted by Glidelock

I’ve broken 2 screwdriver tips and marred many of screw heads specifically on Rolex oyster bracelets that were on brand new bracelets in my past before realizing that a heat source is absolutely necessary! I mean don’t get me wrong, your gonna get the first three off...no problem. It’s that last one that’s just not gonna budge...then click, the screwdrivers head bends or breaks, which results in it slipping out of the slot...and the screw head gets marred as the top of the driver slides down the polished edge of multiple links leaving you with a nice little lesson for the day! I’ve been there before and have chosen not to repeat!



1. If it were overkill then it would not have been the Direct Instuctions from Rolex in their literature to AD’s and watchmakers for decades, on how to appropriately soften up the loctite before attempting to loosen up the screw with the 1.7 mm Flat Cut Screw Driver aka Rolex 2100 tool.

2. As far as hurting your case or movement, it should not be an issue for 2 reasons:

A. You will only be holding link edge under the flame for approx. 2-3 seconds...which I assure you your watch movement can take...if it can survive a pot of boiling water and being frozen in the freezer...and yes, it really can survive that stuff! And...

B. Logically you would be heating the link edge from the inside of the bracelet. Which means the case will be underneath your flame anyway, and since flame rise up, your case simply is not a factor of concern here!

Additionally, I will tell you from the personal experience of having done this many times over the years, the flames will not leave even an inkling of perminent tarnishing on your bracelet! It’s a million times faster and more efficient then using any type of heat gun or hair dryer, and spreads far less heat around the watch! Takes about 2-3 seconds...period!

That said, don’t do anything until you either get a Rolex 2100 or the next best thing...which is a Panerai OEM spec 1.6 Flat Cut screwdriver which will cost you all of $18 US at http://Panatime.com. I own both the Rolex 2100 which will cost you well over $100 if you can find one, as well as the Panatime version I’ve referenced above. It’s the closest thing I’ve ever seen to Rolex specs on the 2100, and the price is pretty great!

I removed the screws/adjusted the links on three brand new Rolex I purchased. No issue without heating first. I guess I was lucky. But the key is get a nice set of harden tip screw drivers. I guess it doesn't hurt to use a hairdryer to soften the loctite first. Don't want to take any chances.

[jsausley]

If I had to heat something on the watch I would use a heat gun or hair dryer, depending on how hot I needed to get it.

I'm no metallurgist but it seems like using an open flame could oxidize or something and mess up the flame.

[Glidelock]

Originally Posted by yxc145

I removed the screws/adjusted the links on three brand new Rolex I purchased. No issue without heating first. I guess I was lucky. But the key is get a nice set of harden tip screw drivers. I guess it doesn't hurt to use a hairdryer to soften the loctite first. Don't want to take any chances.

. I’ve had this experience as well in the past. Yet, once again when you encounter one that’s very well locked in, you risk doing damage in a flash by not just heating up!

Originally Posted by jsausley

If I had to heat something on the watch I would use a heat gun or hair dryer, depending on how hot I needed to get it.

I'm no metallurgist but it seems like using an open flame could oxidize or something and mess up the flame.

2 seconds under a flame does nothing more then liquify the Loctite. 0 damage to anything and the exact instructions from Rolex themselves for years. Now, I believe they sale to AD’s and watchmakers a heat gun as part of the very expensive Rolex kit. But, still most watchmakers I’ve spoken with do it the most efficient way by applying direct heat for a brief moment on the specific screw they are trying to loosen, and that is via flame!

[sillo]

Only had this issue on one of my watches. Hit the edge of the problem link with a brulee torch for 2 or 3 seconds and the screw came right out.

You'll be perfectly fine leaving the watch on the bracelet.

[Tools]

Originally Posted by filtrans

. . .
I'm worried that the watch mechanism/case/dial might get heat damage. Should I remove the watch case first? (which might be harder than just adjusting the bracelet since the tolerance on the Black Bay 36 steel bracelet is pretty tight)

Or can I just heat up the bracelet while it is still attached the watch case?

Thank you very much.

The only spot that needs heat is the thread end of the screw to be removed. No need to cook your watch to accomplish this.

[Spoonage]

I’ve adjusted the bracelets on 5 Rolex and 1 Tudor all new from the factory and did not need a heat source for any of them.

[GB-man]

Hair dryer for 60 seconds on high and a 15 dollar screwdriver from eBay. Be careful the bracelets get hot fast!

[AEC]

Originally Posted by filtrans

Hi

I'm planning to lengthen the bracelet on my Black Bay 36. I've read that some use a lighter (torch style so it can be focused) to soften the loctite on the screws.

I'm worried that the watch mechanism/case/dial might get heat damage. Should I remove the watch case first? (which might be harder than just adjusting the bracelet since the tolerance on the Black Bay 36 steel bracelet is pretty tight)

Or can I just heat up the bracelet while it is still attached the watch case?

Thank you very much.

Flame seems extreme.

I prefer to let the bracelet soak in a dish of very hot water for a few minutes instead. Sometimes I microwave the water a bit to help get the bracelet nice and hot. Screws come right out.