My watch collecting journey so far...

[pearson1995]

Watch collecting is a journey. When I started my watch journey I was 10 years old, I bought myself a seiko 5 for £35, which was a lot of money for me back then. The experience of emptying my bank account for a watch occurred pretty early on in my life. I added my next watch at the age of 17, purchasing a Breitling Super Ocean Chronograph. This is a 46mm watch. I have very small wrists, and probably even smaller back then. I didn’t even realise lug to lug, thickness and taper were things to consider when buying a watch. I now know that for myself, after owning many watches, I prefer smaller watches, ideally <40mm and ideally thinner than 13mm.
So here I am at the age of 25, having been fortunate to try on and own many luxury timepieces. My first Rolex was a BLNR on oyster. I still own it, and is my definition of a solid watch. It is just so solid in my opinion. 40mm, not to thick, 100m water resistant, in house movement, amazing complication, built like a tank, solid bracelet, solid movement, good lume, applied indices, flawless detail and value retention. It just ticks all my boxes. However, I work in the medical profession and don’t want to be wearing flash watches in front of patients. So at work I wear two watches in rotation. One is a JLC reverso grande duo face. Not many people know what it is, and the ones that do usually can appreciate watches. My other watch is the seiko 5 that started my journey with. Here is the thing, that £35 seiko was still holding good time(ish), it serves its purpose. It is built cheap though, crystal glass not sapphire, stretched bracelet, wonky crown, not water resistant, misaligned date wheel and poorly finished.
Whilst at work wearing my seiko, this got me thinking. If my BLNR costing £12,500 in todays market was my bench mark, a 7/10, what would my seiko be? probably a 4/10. I then thought of some of the other watches I’ve owned or been lucky enough to hold and what I would rate them and realised something…

Seiko 5- £35 (4/10)
JLC Reverso - £6,000 (6.5/10)
Rolex BLNR - £12,500 (7/10)
DaytonaC - £27,000 (8/10)
DD 40 - £30,000 (9/10)
Patek grand or Lange complication -£50,000+ (9.5/10)


As I got more expensive, the watches were ‘better', however this was somewhat exponential, where a lot more money only got you a little more quality. I asked myself, there must be a sweet spot. A watch which is close to my bench mark BLNR in quality, but costing closer to the seiko 5 in value.

A also realise, we are not all built the same, and for myself, a watch under 40mm and relatively thin is preferable. I owned a Tudor BB GMT, which although I loved, on my wrists just didn’t look right. Well I think I found my watch. Coming in at an RRP of £1,600.

Let me describe the watch on paper first… A dive watch with 300m water resistance and rotating ceramic dive bezel, an independent watch brand which has been around for over 100 years, integrated bracelet and a dial size of 39.5mm, strong lume and applied indices, not too thick, and a truly mesmerising unique dial, it fits perfect on my wrist. The Oris Aquis Date.

I am still in the honeymoon phase with this watch, but for now, I have found what I believe is the sweet spot of watch collecting. It is another part of my watch journey, I still dream of owning Lange and Patek grand complications, but for now the Oris is keeping me very happy.

[kieselguhr]

I like Oris. The brand has a consistent history of supporting ocean conservation programs. They make solid watches that are backed with a 10 year warranty (in house movements). Just haven’t seem to find one that fits my aesthetic taste quite yet.

[TimeAZ]

Interesting analysis.

I think Grand Seiko (generally speaking) fits nicely into the "Sweet Spot" range, as does the Tudor BB58. I know your Tudor BB GMT was thick and awkward on your wrist, take a look at the BB58 to see if it's more to your liking.

[pearson1995]

Originally Posted by TimeAZ

Interesting analysis.

I think Grand Seiko (generally speaking) fits nicely into the "Sweet Spot" range, as does the Tudor BB58. I know your Tudor BB GMT was thick and awkward on your wrist, take a look at the BB58 to see if it's more to your liking.

I think the 58 would be a great fit for me. Actually hoping to pick one up soon! The problem is I am not sure which GS watches best suit a smaller wrist. It would be good to try some on for sure!

[SennieG]

Nice selection, also being in the medical profession I stick to Seikos, especially vintage ones

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[Pauln]

I’ve been looking at that Oris too. Great looking watch and I too like their conservation editions.

[Tanuki]

You are absolutely right in your assessment and it applies to many of our illogical passions like cars, HI-FI equipment, homes and watches. You discovered the key to collecting my friend but the trick is to control the urge to upgrade.

[Yeezy_008]

Would love to see some wristshots featuring the Aquis

[BogdanS]

Originally Posted by pearson1995

I think the 58 would be a great fit for me. Actually hoping to pick one up soon! The problem is I am not sure which GS watches best suit a smaller wrist. It would be good to try some on for sure!

80% of GS’s whatches will fit you perfectly. Because 80% of them are 40mm or below.

Here’s an interesting, up-to-date and so very useful database of GS’s watches:

https://www.plus9time.com/gsdb#home/...&view_3_page=1


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[Oyster Sauce]

Yep, I agree with your analysis. The “sweet spot” avoids the increasingly diminishing returns of more expensive watches, but yet maintains some level of expected luxury and robustness. The Oris certainly fits that bill.

[RoscoPico]

love your reasoning op. and 2nd grand seiko. probably a whole bunch of great brands for the money actually. omega, tag, etc

[alphadweller]

From experience, logical and rational decisions have little to do with my watch collecting. Otherwise, I wouldn't have gone pass affordable quartz watches, the absolute "sweetest spot" when you think of it.

[drm20]

Very cool insight. I haven't really gotten into Oris but this may make me.

[TimeAZ]

Oh, I'd also like to add one data point that will completely skew the data trend on your graph:

DJ36 - £6,000 (8/10)

Price is a little bit above the sweet-spot range, but quality is absurd.

Personally, I love the white dial or silver dial variants of a DJ36.

[brandrea]

I agree, the price of a watch doesn't equate to enjoying it more.

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[Gab27]

I thoroughly enjoyed this post. Oris is a lot of watch for the money.

[1665fan]

You might be looking for a Tudor...

[bp1000]

I do like Oris indeed.

But that middle ground has a lot of contenders.

Technically, in the literal sense, omega make some of the best movements available for time and date only. The calibre 8800 is spectacular and powers many options

From seamasters to acqua terras to railmasters.

Dependant on your taste you are getting extremely technical movements in different styles for very good money.

A time only 1948 seamaster is a marvel. As it the trilogy railmaster, so is the aqua terra on rubber or bracelet. And clearly the 300m diver.

Then you have grand seiko. Their GMT is a masterpiece in finishing. I think it’s the elegance. It’s astounding the finishing and quality for the money, especially used. The movement is decent too. Finished nicely, exhibition case back, a true jumping hour GMt movement with components reistent to shock and magnetism.

Tudors are nice but don’t have these levels of movement complexity or finishing. They are more for looks in the tool watch space.

I love the 2 other brands that fall in that sweet spot for me. As your jump is 65£ to 6500£ the omega which come in around 4-5k and grand seiko I’m fairly sure 3-4K used they are unbeatable. If, you care about technical achievements and finishing.

[B2 Stealth]

Very enjoyable read--thanks for sharing your thoughts.