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9 March 2020, 01:01 PM | #1 |
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I figured out why the 42mm Speedmaster wears so well for such a "big watch"
A month ago, I picked up a classic Hesalite Moon Speedmaster, after going more than five years without a Speedy in my stable. I've been enjoying it greatly! An aesthetic masterpiece, it's like acquiring a brand new 50 year old watch. I love it. Great to be back in "the club".
0F416EFA-5A5B-4A2E-A93C-FFF973129010.jpeg A friend of mine, who also is a Speedy wearer, and I were discussing this. For me, with a 7 1/8 inch wrist, 40mm watches have always been the ideal size. I don't like oversized watches that dominate the wrist and get hung up on a shirt cuff. The Speedy, spec'd at 42mm, "should" be too big for me -- yet, I find that it wears 100% perfectly on my wrist. It's got the exact ideal and correct proportions, balance, visual & physical presence, and wearing comfort, despite being a "big" 42mm watch. Why is that? Because.....drum roll.....it's actually not 42mm, it really is a 40mm watch! 987B3683-D32F-424F-8496-89896FF1D843.jpeg I've always observed that the size a watch "wears" has everything to do with its bezel diameter. I measured my Speedy across the bezel -- which comes in at exactly 40mm. The reason the Speedy is spec'd at 42mm instead of 40 is because of that 2mm of extra case width on the right hand side of the asymmetric case, which serves as the protective guarding for the crown & pushers. But that extra case width doesn't really influence the size of how the watch looks or wears. 05600A00-1970-472D-A326-FE83E7EBAD12.jpeg If those guards weren't there (like on the FOIS, for example), the watch would actually be spec'd at 40mm, because crown and pushers don't count towards measuring a watch's size spec. The Speedy's wearing comfort is also enhanced by its case being pretty thin, and shaped to contour around the wrist so beautifully. Your guys' thoughts -- and/or ever noticed this, my fellow Speedy fans? A42ECD27-F320-4805-AC33-EF7397816208.jpeg |
9 March 2020, 10:20 PM | #2 |
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Well noted! I agree, I tend to prefer 40mm watches but this nor its 42mm Seamaster 300 Professional cousin wear as big as I think a 42mm should.
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10 March 2020, 10:50 AM | #3 |
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Interesting. I'd only note that it does wear visually larger than the fois, so that small difference resulting from the crown guards may make a difference after all, imo.
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10 March 2020, 12:29 PM | #4 |
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You're right!
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10 March 2020, 12:49 PM | #5 |
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You are indeed correct on the crown guards adding to the dimensions. For some reason, this seems to be a pervasive mystery to many.
Honestly, and this might just be my preference for vintage looking chronos, but Omega should just remove the crown guards altogether on all speedys.
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10 March 2020, 08:54 PM | #6 |
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Yeah was going to say the same about the Seamaster 300 Pro. I never thought I'd buy a 42mm but I don't feel it's oversized at all on me.
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10 March 2020, 09:23 PM | #7 |
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It's actually not even really a 40mm watch. If you measure the dial/bezel edge-to-edge it comes out to somewhere between 38-39mm. The way Omega measures their watches is very deceiving because them include the width of the entire case including crown guards.
This is why the ENORMOUS 44.25 mm watches they produce aren't enormous at all. They wear much closer to a 41-42mm watch because, like the Moonwatch, they include the crown guards in the measurement. |
10 March 2020, 10:36 PM | #8 |
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I have. I have a 6.5 inch wrist (though flat on top) and it’s the lug to lug length that matters most. And the watch is lug to lug almost exactly what my 16610 is. Some people mention that the bracelet flairs out a bit past the lugs, however this is nonsense, as when it is on wrist the bracelet goes out and curves around the wrist, and only is noticeable if you look at the speedy when it’s not being worn.
As for the 44.25, the lug to lug is indeed larger and I can’t pull them off. |
11 March 2020, 05:00 AM | #9 |
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Huh.
Well, my 42mm Speedy feels much smaller than my 42mm SMP, so I'm really kind of confused. Although my 44mm DSOTM is large, it's so light (ceramic) that it's not so noticeable.
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11 March 2020, 06:05 AM | #10 |
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When I first got my hesalite Moon Watch I thought it looked too small. I even thought I might have been sent the "reduced" version. It did not look or feel like a 42mm watch. The watch wears very comfortably and I love it. If I could make one revision I would get rid of the crown guards.
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17 March 2020, 01:10 AM | #11 |
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I noticed the same thing! My wrist is approx 6.25” and most 42’s don’t fit at all! However the speedy is my most comfortable fitting watch. The lugs gracefully wrap around the wrist and the heavily profiled case shaves alot of weight. Throw it on a canvas strap and I sometimes forget that I’m even wearing it!
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18 March 2020, 02:49 AM | #12 |
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I ultimately sold my sapphire sandwich Speedmaster because it felt it wore too large for my ~6.25" wrist. Traded it in to my dealer for a 39.5mm Planet Ocean and never looked back.
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18 March 2020, 03:25 AM | #13 |
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Tried one on for the first time last week. Incredibly comfortable. Hopefully getting one next week!! Also recently got SM300mc which I think is 41mm but fits beautifully.
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18 March 2020, 04:45 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
After reading your post I’ve been staring at my PO as well. It’s the same. The bezel is 40mm and the crown side extends out a little bit. I learned something today!!
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19 March 2020, 07:29 AM | #15 |
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You’re absolutely correct. Very well designed watch. That’s why it’s so popular after all these years
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19 March 2020, 07:33 AM | #16 |
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Interesting, I have the 42mm Planet Ocean and I think the case is similar, if not identical and I did notice the other day how that it wears smaller than what 42mm seems... this after wearing the Turtle for a while (which also seems to wear smaller than the 45mm spec).
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22 March 2020, 04:57 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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6 December 2020, 02:30 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
For whatever reason Omega measures the SMP correctly. 2 o'clock to 8 o'clock across the case comes out to exactly 42 mm. On the entire Speedmaster line they measure the width of the case INCLUDING the crown guards. So the Speedmaster line all tend to wear 2 mm or more SMALLER than their listed diameter. The SMP wears exactly like a 42 mm watch, which for me is perfect. Just always struck me as odd the way Omega does this. My "44.25 mm" coaxial Speedmaster wears very similar to my 42 mm SMP. Wish they measured consistently across all the models. Sent from my Galaxy S20 using Tapatalk |
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6 December 2020, 11:00 PM | #19 |
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I agree. The standard Speed Master does wear smaller than the 42 mm as advertised.
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7 December 2020, 12:00 AM | #20 |
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I never measured it with digital calipers but I agree that the Speedmaster Pro wears well for a 42. Lug to lug size is same as my Submariner. I wear on a leather strap which I’m sure makes it wear even smaller.
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7 December 2020, 02:03 AM | #21 | |
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Quote:
since just adding a speedy i was comparing the size to my yachtmaster and it appeared to be the same. i thought my old 145.012 was much bigger. so i double checked the size on the omega site for 3570.50 and figured something was wrong. but yes, i as well that the noticed bezel was actually 40 while the case was 42 |
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7 December 2020, 02:05 AM | #22 |
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just noticed the timing is more thanks to Mike, lol
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