A Lange vs Patek vs Vacheron dress watches

[ThatOtherGuy7]

How’s it going folks?

I’m in the market for a dressy watch as I don’t currently have one in the collection of sports watches. Was originally interested in JLC Ultra Thin Moon but after trying it on, I’m not sure how to feel about it. The other option was VC FiftySix date (non calendar or moon phase). It’s a nice piece but I feel that it’s on the more sporty side for a dress watch. I then came across the Traditionelle and prefer that over the FiftySix.

So to the question as I’ve now narrowed down to three: Patek Calatrave 6119 (tried it on the wrist and it’s nice), VC Traditionelle (haven’t tried or seen in person but looks super nice), and A Lange Saxonia Thin Blue Copper (haven’t seen or tried as the closest AD is an hour away). All three are great brands with great quality and movement. Would like to get folks’ opinion on which one to aim for.

Thank you,
K

[magicman]

If you don't have a dressy watch, I would go with the VC Traditionelle. It's really a spectacular and versatile dressy watch that could also be dressed down a bit if you wanted. The Lange Saxonia blue copper is striking but perhaps more a specific aesthetic that wouldn't pair as well with a wide array of outfits.

[SoylentGreenChi]

All terrific, can’t go wrong. My pick would be the VC Traditionelle, but only because the 6119 case doesn’t work on my wrist (too broad and flat), otherwise I’d go Patek.

[chaosiwe]

I agree that can’t go wrong with any of choices. Out of this 3 I would personally go with VC. If you are considering other brand I would suggest looking into Grand Seiko (e.g. SBGW231) for a fraction of price

[TikTok]

Lange, every day of the week. No contest for me.

[ts3]

I'd go VC Traditionelle among the given choices but in reality got a 1990s platinum Calatrava when I wanted a dress watch.

The Saxonia Thin is nice but not a fan of the blue one. Not a dial I want and unduly large at 39mm. I had thought about the regular 37mm Saxonia Thin but was afraid I might become bored. Just to add, the limited 1815 Thin is a beauty and the best of them IMO.

The 6119 is a swing and miss in my eyes. It sits square in a line of watches Patek have upsized (also to 39mm) but struggled to fill the extra space. I don't like the hobnail plus railtrack combo and the new movement looks cost engineered and uninspired to me.

[ChetBaker]

I’d go Patek 5212 or indeed a VC traditionelle 82172 in platinum if you can find it.

[mario1971]

Z tej trójki zdecydowanie VC Traditionelle. Był to mój pierwszy wybór, zanim ostatecznie kupiłem ALS 1815 Up/Down.

[jw0n]

I suppose my choice is biased:





Alternatively, if you don't mind a slightly sportier, dress sized watch, you could consider the new, smaller Reverso Tributes:

[mongrelnomoad]

No wrong answers in that bunch. I would probably go with the Calatrava although I think it’s a few mm to large. Have you checked out a 38.5mm Lange 1?

[Flint]

VC Traditionelle , for me a perfect size 38mm , I got green dial and never looked back

[SoylentGreenChi]

Originally Posted by mario1971

Z tej trójki zdecydowanie VC Traditionelle. Był to mój pierwszy wybór, zanim ostatecznie kupiłem ALS 1815 Up/Down.

Jeśli masz możliwość wyboru opcji góra/dół, zdecydowanie wybierz ALS 1815 Up/Down.

The ALS Up/Down is a triumph of symmetry and style. One one my favorite references - ever. That white gold traditionnelle is pretty great, too, wish it were still in the VC catalog.

[cactakla]

Love mine. Very warm, can dress it up or down easily.

[ThatOtherGuy7]

I was in the area and popped by local AD to try on the green dial Traditionnelle they have in stock. I really liked it! It’s clean, elegant, and youthful yet classy. Now the decision whether to buy from AD or trusted grey dealer. Anyone know when the green dial came out? Curious as I don’t see many listings on Chrono24.

[raclaims]

Also on the VC bandwagon on this one...great piece. Good luck!

[vitalsigns]

I would go with the VC Traditionelle.

The Patek 6119 just never worked for me visually, and the hobnail bezel takes it a bit too far in the flashy/dressy category.

The Lange is gorgeous, but less versatile with its blue dial.

The VC is a lovely understated dress watch.

[Flint]

Originally Posted by ThatOtherGuy7

I was in the area and popped by local AD to try on the green dial Traditionnelle they have in stock. I really liked it! It’s clean, elegant, and youthful yet classy. Now the decision whether to buy from AD or trusted grey dealer. Anyone know when the green dial came out? Curious as I don’t see many listings on Chrono24.

Traditionnelle green dial was launched initially aimed at the Chinese market and only sold in China , however due to its popularity Vacheron decided to market worldwide .The model has been available for general sale 2 years and is truly a gorgeous watch , the green dial is spectacular together with green croc strap and contrasts well against rose gold , I purchased mine 6 months ago and am still in love with it !

[DJH1977]

Have the Vacheron Traditionelle and Lange thin (but white gold variant, more versatile). Lange for me all the way. More versatile and more perfect in every way.

[PreferHackingSeconds]

Originally Posted by ThatOtherGuy7

How’s it going folks?

I’m in the market for a dressy watch as I don’t currently have one in the collection of sports watches. Was originally interested in JLC Ultra Thin Moon but after trying it on, I’m not sure how to feel about it. The other option was VC FiftySix date (non calendar or moon phase). It’s a nice piece but I feel that it’s on the more sporty side for a dress watch. I then came across the Traditionelle and prefer that over the FiftySix.

So to the question as I’ve now narrowed down to three: Patek Calatrave 6119 (tried it on the wrist and it’s nice), VC Traditionelle (haven’t tried or seen in person but looks super nice), and A Lange Saxonia Thin Blue Copper (haven’t seen or tried as the closest AD is an hour away). All three are great brands with great quality and movement. Would like to get folks’ opinion on which one to aim for.

Thank you,
K

Hi OP,

I was in the same boat as you 3 weeks ago. Considering the ALS 1815 manual winding 3 handed in WG, 6119G and the Vacheron Traditionnelle in White Gold 82172/000G.

After going on to try all the watches, I decided to narrow it down to the ALS or VC as the 6119 wore a little too big for me. Unfortunately, the WG White Dial Traditionnelle has been removed from the catalog and my boutique hasn’t seen one since 2022.

I decided to go pre owned and look for one. To my surprise, I found a platinum version of the Traditionnelle 82172/000P Slate Dial(for sale similar to the price of used white gold examples).

Quickly, I had to meet the very nice seller and made the purchase. As a bonus, it was a full set, with the last of the Vacheron Passports, Paper Poinçon de Genève cert that you don’t get with modern Vacheron purchases and more than 5 years left on the original warranty. Also my local boutique helped me procure a brand new double sided croc strap that you don’t get with most modern VCs.

It has been my daily go to watch and I really love the added heft. I may be biased (I have 2 other Vacherons) but I think that the Traditionnelle wears a lot thinner and elegant than the 1815 3 hander. It being the 4400 calibre is also a bonus as it is a reliable movement and my local boutique has a watchmaker on site that can handle this calibre.

I’m now looking for my first Lange for my next watch and most likely will look for a chronograph as I think it looks better with some complications.


All the best with your hunt!

[ThatOtherGuy7]

^ very niiiice! Beautiful and congratulations on the new watch!

I’m partial to the green now. Originally was looking at the white dial, but for some reason the green stood out to me more. After trying it on at the local boutique store, I’m set on green. Anyone have advice on whether to buy from grey, dealer, other countries (Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan, etc.), or eBay even? These tend to drop in value so looking for the best price for either new or like new. Not sure if boutiques offer discount as I forgot to ask in person.

[PreferHackingSeconds]

Originally Posted by ThatOtherGuy7

^ very niiiice! Beautiful and congratulations on the new watch!

I’m partial to the green now. Originally was looking at the white dial, but for some reason the green stood out to me more. After trying it on at the local boutique store, I’m set on green. Anyone have advice on whether to buy from grey, dealer, other countries (Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan, etc.), or eBay even? These tend to drop in value so looking for the best price for either new or like new. Not sure if boutiques offer discount as I forgot to ask in person.

The green dial is amazing. The only reason I did not go with the green is that my VC boutique highlighted that it is not as versatile as a white or Slate dial in terms of strap replacement. The green dial kinda only looks fitting with the green strap. If you can rock it with most of your outfits definitely get it because the dial changes so much under light!

VC Boutique doesn’t do discounts yet afaik, so if this is your only piece from VC it might make sense to pick it up grey as it is under retail.

Singapore has the most expensive retail imho, HK is tax free (but not much cheaper) and Japan gives the full tax back. The best bet is to source one from a trusted seller, and verify the case and movement number with the watch with the Vacheron digital passport.

Do PM me if you want to buy it in Singapore or HK and I’m happy to share some of the reputable dealers that I have dealt with before and absolutely find the right piece. I would avoid eBay!

[MILGAUSS88]

Well here was my choice.

Second I would say VC.

Just don't like the design of the 6119, so it would be my 3rd choice.

[shafran]

Parmigiani dress watches.

[Vipes]

Originally Posted by cactakla

Love mine. Very warm, can dress it up or down easily.

This is the one to get. Love the guilloche on this one.

[ThatOtherGuy7]

Happy New Year!!

Bought the VC Traditionnelle; my first Holy Trinity timepiece. It is stunning. Can’t help but keep looking at it. Curious: are there bands with deployment clasps? Thinking it would be easier to put on and take watch off the wrist.

[misochew]

As others have said, you can’t go wrong with any of these 3 brands. Take some more time to think about it, and make the effort to try all of them on. Then just go with what your heart tells you

[subtona]

Patek


Dress watch <39mm is priority for me.


Imho 5940 the best value for a grand complicated patek out there.

[soulsea]

All great watches, fwiw my vote between the three is Patek.

Alternatively, with a similar aesthetic (and price to the Patek), I would choose the platinum 1908 over all three. But that's trading over sticker so it necessitates a good relationship with your AD.

[HMHM]

Originally Posted by soulsea

All great watches, fwiw my vote between the three is Patek.

Alternatively, with a similar aesthetic (and price to the Patek), I would choose the platinum 1908 over all three. But that's trading over sticker :/ so it necessitates a good relationship with your AD.

Tbh, I think the 1908 in Platinum is so underrated by the watch community. It offers so much for a dress watch and it is priced reasonably. It is so rare to spot one.

[HL65]

Originally Posted by ThatOtherGuy7

Happy New Year!!

Bought the VC Traditionnelle; my first Holy Trinity timepiece. It is stunning. Can’t help but keep looking at it. Curious: are there bands with deployment clasps? Thinking it would be easier to put on and take watch off the wrist.

Congrats and great choice! Personally much prefer pin buckle but I also find them far more comfortable than deployant. Well done and happy New Year!