1675 Case restoration with Alex Bui (buiwatchco)

[fizz]

I promised on another thread recently that I would create a separate one about my experience with Alex Bui (buiwatchco) who worked on rebuilding the case of my 1675 earlier this year.

I won't go into the details of comparing him with other more established players in this field, particularly in the US, except to say that my choice of selecting him was based on a combination of many factors including:

1 - Repute (he seems to do work with a lot of the larger vintage watch dealers).
2 - Communication (he was very responsive when first approached and I like dealing with individuals, rather than companies).
3 - Price estimate (his initial quote was the most reasonable from the few enquiries I did in comparison to the usual suspects) and finally
4 - Recommendation (from another fellow member who first suggested him with very strong praise).

My reason for deciding to restore the case was that while I loved the watch overall, I felt the lugs were too soft (sort of like melted butter) and everytime I looked at it, I was reminded of this. Understandably, this is very subjective and for many, opting to do this is controversial in the first place, but my mind was made up so off it went to him (shipped from Dubai), once we had agreed on the specifics of time frame (I was told 6-8 weeks) and rough estimate of work performed and potential cost.

For comparison, I'm attaching a few pictures of the watch before, though I will warn you, I don't have a macro lens and these are pretty low quality, mediocre phone pics (except the wrist shot).

We agreed that post the restoration work being completed (which consisted of rebuilding 3 of the 4 lugs), he would also perform some artificial aging, in line with my bracelet and dial condition and what you see is the result after some "medium" aging. To say that I am pleased is an under statement. The turnaround was quicker than I thought (in all it took 6 weeks) and I now absolutely love the "new" look of the watch (the "after" pics of the lugs are courtesy Alex, who's done a great job capturing the outcome).

Let me know what you think.

[Jackie Daytona]

That looks fantastic! Very nice!

[Dom9]

I know it's not always a popular position here but I love a freshly recut case! Looks great!

[shaunylw]

Looks great!


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[0nly5iv3Digits]

I too, am a sucker for a case re-cut to factory specification. Very nice craftsmanship here, OP. Congrats!

[Stan Cooper]

Sacramento is a two hour drive from my home, and I have a couple of self-inflicted nicks on my 16710 case lug chamfers, so it looks like Alex might be able to work some of his magic. I'd never heard of him before reading this thread.

[southtexas]

Looks like he did really nice work. Congrats.

[springer]

Bui, as I mentioned in an earlier post in another thread, does very nice work but case repairs for dealers is his priority and business model. He doesn't normally take individual watches for repair.

[springer]

Why on earth would anyone have a case repaired to bring it back to its original luster then have it aged?

[502 to Right]

That looks awesome, but personally I would have "aged" the case by wearing it every day.

[fizz]

Originally Posted by springer

Why on earth would anyone have a case repaired to bring it back to its original luster then have it aged?

Gee...I don't know. Maybe because aesthetically, that's the look I was going for. Lots of people do. It's clearly an option on the "menu" for that reason. Go figure!

[TuRo]

Originally Posted by springer

Why on earth would anyone have a case repaired to bring it back to its original luster then have it aged?

I know it's an odd business jP.

A few of my pals do it with their old cars and guitars (and even your wheelhouse I suspect) on a knucklehead HD.

I personally prefer unmolested (and as such less that perfect) all the way, but variety is spice of life and all that...

Rgds

[springer]

Originally Posted by fizz

Gee...I don't know. Maybe because aesthetically, that's the look I was going for. Lots of people do. It's clearly an option on the "menu" for that reason. Go figure!

Fair enough. It is something I have never heard of and that "lots of people do" it is something I didn't know.

Also, due to my GMT collection as many here know, I received a message the other day from a forum member asking me if I was familiar with the concept of purposefully case aging after a refinish. Of course it was something that I could not answer so I thought I'd ask.

[0nly5iv3Digits]

Originally Posted by springer

Fair enough. It is something I have never heard of and that "lots of people do" it is something I didn't know.

Also, due to my GMT collection as many here know, I received a message the other day from a forum member asking me if I was familiar with the concept of purposefully case aging after a refinish. Of course it was something that I could not answer so I thought I'd ask.

It's definitely become increasingly popular in recent years - access to CNC machining has changed the game as far as case-restoration goes. For me it depends on the watch. If it's really beat to hell, I'd consider re-cutting. That said, there's something charming about an "honest" watch, as you say.

[WatchEater666]

Wow, that looks perfect IMO!

[swish77]

Originally Posted by fizz

We agreed that post the restoration work being completed (which consisted of rebuilding 3 of the 4 lugs).

Any details as to exactly what you mean by “rebuilding?” I assume you mean extra non-Rolex metal was laser-welded onto the case, correct? And then the whole rebuilt case was re-cut?

The final product looks nice, but for me, the originality is lost, kind of like when a dial is refinished, which is OK too, as long as all restoration work is disclosed if/when a watch is sold.

[Dan S]

I think that refinishing can allow you to enjoy a watch more in some cases. Yes, the originality is lost, as Aaron mentioned, but this particular case was too far gone for me to enjoy.

As long as the OP got a good deal on the original purchase, and the total cost wasn't too high, I think it's a good outcome. Or if it allows him to enjoy a family piece more.

However, some of these refinishing jobs are becoming so expensive that it may not necessarily better than spending extra to buy an example with an original case in acceptable condition, which would give me more joy.

[502 to Right]

Originally Posted by swish77

Any details as to exactly what you mean by “rebuilding?”

I would think it's like the photo below (from Zimmerman Watch Repair instagram). Personally, I'm all for this kind of work and I think it won't be long before Rolex is doing this themselves on the regular (for an additional fee).


Edit - no photo since the pic is too large and I'm not going to resize it.

[dhknola]

These recut cases are liking painting over a Monet.

[502 to Right]

Originally Posted by dhknola

These recut cases are liking painting over a Monet.

Comparing tools made by machines in the millions to one-off hand painted art from over 100 years ago. Wow.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by 502 to Right

Comparing tools made by machines in the millions to one-off hand painted art from over 100 years ago. Wow.

I think the point is that the originality of a classic/vintage watch is being lost/destroyed when a case is laser-welded. Whether it’s acceptable is a personal decision.

The reason this is a hot topic is that dealers and private sellers often do not disclose (or even know) when cases are laser-welded. It’s much tougher to spot than when a dial is refinished.

This is an often-discussed issue with any old collectible item, including vintage cars. Plenty of guys would prefer a vintage Porsche 911 with faded cracked original paint, compared to a complete re-spray of the same car. Either way is fine, of course, as long as it’s disclosed. Just comes down to personal preference.

[ADINVA]

The finished restoration looks amazing. My question is, is there anyway where one could tell that this case had been restored with re-welding and re-cut?

[joli160]

Originally Posted by ADINVA

The finished restoration looks amazing. My question is, is there anyway where one could tell that this case had been restored with re-welding and re-cut?

Normally not for us ordinary folks.
It’s a pity that dealers are not transparant.
Some common sense might help though;
A pristine case with sharp bevels combined with a sagging bracelet is of course redone.
Polished crown on the clasp but sharp edges on the case also doesn’t match.
Several watchmakers marks in the case back but still looking like new is not very realistic.

[HK_Expat]

Looks like a great job and congrats

I have had a few cases re finished and I was very pleased with the result.

You are the final verdict as to how it turned out

[thesharkfactor]

It looks so much better, well done. It's great to know there are guys who can repair lugs like that.

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by 502 to Right

I would think it's like the photo below (from Zimmerman Watch Repair instagram). Personally, I'm all for this kind of work and I think it won't be long before Rolex is doing this themselves on the regular (for an additional fee).


Edit - no photo since the pic is too large and I'm not going to resize it.

Certain Rolex service centers across the world have started laser welding and from what I have been told it will eventually be all of them they are rolling it out in phases. Only a matter of time before they start recutting cases if client wishes.

[Tritto]

Originally Posted by ronricks

Certain Rolex service centers across the world have started laser welding and from what I have been told it will eventually be all of them they are rolling it out in phases. Only a matter of time before they start recutting cases if client wishes.

And then the cases can be restored with genuine Rolex metal


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[swish77]

Originally Posted by ronricks

Certain Rolex service centers across the world have started laser welding and from what I have been told it will eventually be all of them they are rolling it out in phases. Only a matter of time before they start recutting cases if client wishes.

Laser-welding for a repair, such as a major ding, is very different from a complete cosmetic restoration and case rebuild because a client thinks the lugs are soft. I doubt Rolex would ever do that. This is a company that won’t even sell a loose bezel insert to a customer, and in general is not very accommodating when it comes to its vintage watches.

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by Tritto

And then the cases can be restored with genuine Rolex metal


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904L is 904L just like 316L is 316L.

[ronricks]

Originally Posted by swish77

Laser-welding for a repair, such as a major ding, is very different from a complete cosmetic restoration and case rebuild because a client thinks the lugs are soft. I doubt Rolex would ever do that. This is a company that won’t even sell a loose bezel insert to a customer, and in general is not very accommodating when it comes to its vintage watches.

Well aware of the differences. Rolex is dipping their toes in this and I'm betting 10 years ago people would say Rolex wasn't likely to ever laser weld. Well here we are....Things and procedures can and often do change. Huge difference between loose parts floating around out there and re-cutting a case with the case there's nothing out there to use on another Rolex like a Bezel, dial or specific insert etc.