Rolex DD 18038 Legit Check

[YCIR]

Hi all,

I'm semi-new to the forum, I've lurked for a few months and I'm finally ready to purchase a DD 18038. However, I do have some questions in terms of the watch I want to buy. The seller is willing to do $6.5k - is this a good deal? Also in terms of selling in the future - I was told this watch may be pretty hard to sell, is this true? Because I do tend to get sick of things pretty quickly.

First off - how are people's feelings about the bark finish vs. the smooth finish? I do LOVE the yellow gold - but not sure of someone's perception of the 'bark' finish vs smooth on the band. Also - if 'bark', does this still constitute the watch as being OG? Because from most DD's, I've only seen a smooth finish. I do think I like bark more - just wanted to know if it's a 'cheaper' look.

Also - can anyone tell me about stretch? Seller says it's a 3 on a scale from 1-10, 10 being the worst stretch. I know this is apparently a very big deal and I don't want the watch to be stretched which ultimately comes down to melting the watch in the end.

He has also a authenticity card from IWA and also states the fact that the diamond bezel is FACTORY. I have a very difficult time believing this. He does not have papers/box, but can provide a different one and the authenticity card. I don't particular mind the OG box / papers, but I do buy and sell shoes so I do know the gripe without having all OG everything.

How can one tell the authenticity on:

The hands?
The glass?
The bezel?

Anyways, here are some photos:

AND THE KICKER

[crowncollection]

All looks good but that certificate is wrong

States this is a 18038 it is not it's a 18108 if the case truly says 18038 your in trouble with this one

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[Jemspeed]

Og?

[Capt. Alex]

Is that an acrylic crystal?

If I'm not mistaken for the vintage of that watch- 1987/1988 that should be a sapphire crystal.

[joli160]

OP, personally I like to see the bark and with the diamonds on the bezel, very nice touch.
The bracelet wear is difficult to judge but important. Ask for a picture with watch head vertical, bracelet hanging loose and than see how much the bracelet is sagging. A refurb by MY in HK will set you back well over 1K.

Crown collection, David, is the number one authority on Rolex DD watches on the forum.
So, smartest thing to do is to follow his advice and ask for a picture of the model number between the lugs.

The IWA card is worthless, should you purchase this watch than consider doing a service at an official RSC. You will than get original Rolex papers which will make it lots easier for resell.

Price is OK imho, if all checks out.

[THC]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

All looks good but that certificate is wrong

States this is a 18038 it is not it's a 18108 if the case truly says 18038 your in trouble with this one

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In case you do not know, OP.. Have the bracelet removed and see what model number is inscribed on the case .. David is the expert

[YCIR]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

All looks good but that certificate is wrong

States this is a 18038 it is not it's a 18108 if the case truly says 18038 your in trouble with this one

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Dave - I was hoping you'd chime in. By 'case', what is this in reference too? What else should I get photos of besides what I have already provided?

And is an 18108 watch more/less valuable than a 18038?

Do you mind if I PM you?

Originally Posted by Jemspeed

Og?

'Og' = Original

Originally Posted by Capt. Alex

Is that an acrylic crystal?

If I'm not mistaken for the vintage of that watch- 1987/1988 that should be a sapphire crystal.

Hi Alex - as to why I posted. Dave states it is a 18108 which seems to be accurate and thankful for this tip. I have absolutely no clue anything the crystal.

Originally Posted by joli160

OP, personally I like to see the bark and with the diamonds on the bezel, very nice touch.
The bracelet wear is difficult to judge but important. Ask for a picture with watch head vertical, bracelet hanging loose and than see how much the bracelet is sagging. A refurb by MY in HK will set you back well over 1K.

Crown collection, David, is the number one authority on Rolex DD watches on the forum.
So, smartest thing to do is to follow his advice and ask for a picture of the model number between the lugs.

The IWA card is worthless, should you purchase this watch than consider doing a service at an official RSC. You will than get original Rolex papers which will make it lots easier for resell.

Price is OK imho, if all checks out.

Hi Jolie - thanks for all the tips. Anything else I should be weary of / request photos of? I figured as much that the IWA was worthless. The seller has had this watch serviced already. However, would definitely like official Rolex papers. Dave said this is a 18108, is this more/less valuable than an 18038 and you do believe that $6.5k is a good price?

I'm asking because I may want to sell in the future after a few years, so just trying to see how difficult it may or may not be without taking that big of a loss.

[YCIR]

Hi All -- here is the band let loosely, let me know what you think on the stretch






and here is another

[joli160]

Dear Op, by no means I am an expert, but own a DD 18238 and really love it. I had my own bracelet refurbished and head serviced therefore know that this can be quite expensive.
Perhaps bark is less known or sometimes even considered old fashion and I think because of that the market is smaller for these. Just a thought. These are also much less available. I personally like it, but you have to like it and really enjoy wearing it. Else it's a useless purchase.
Your watch does not come with box/papers. Some people don't care, but if ever you want to resell, it really does matter.
This is also reflected in the asking price imho, which sounds like a decent deal.
First try to get the pictures of the serial number and the bracelet and post these again in the hope David will share his opinion. Perhaps a picture of the movement to make even a better judgement. Ask seller to take the photographs next to a piece of paper with his name.
If it's a reputable trusted seller with credible feedback than this might be over the top.

If I bought it after it checks out I would sent the bracelet to MY in Hong Kong for refurbishment. Ask him not to polish the crown on the clasp. I like to create my own wear and DNA in between the links and in the same time sent the watch head for service to an official RSC, Dallas is the place to go, reading all the positive comments on the forum.
I personally would also let them detail and polish it.
Not sure btw if a bark bracelet can be as easily refurbished as an ordinary one. Something you might wanna check out before hand.
The service recently done as stated by seller is also worthless for me if not accompanied by detailed invoice from Rolex certified watchmaker or AD.
You will receive a nice quotation and a new warranty card from the RSC.
In the time the watch and bracelet are receiving the Spa treatment source a nice period correct original box, manual and tag.

By now you paid 6500 + 1500(bracelet) + 1500(RSC service) + 300(box) = 9300 for a watch and bracelet which are now in very good condition.
Nothing beats the feeling of a near perfect example on your wrist.
If you don't ruin it you should be able to sell this set in a few years time for something similar. Maybe take a little hit, who knows.
I think, don't know for sure, pricing generally is a bit lower compared with the 18038 model. As always condition is key. Have a look at chrono24 or watchrecon for asking prices, which are not the same as selling prices of course.

Obviously you can refrain from doing all this, it'll save you money now but would make it harder to sell in the future. Btw this is something I never consider. Bought only watches which made me happy and all of them still do so

Finally, don't fall in love to easy and don't be afraid to walk away if you are in doubt or not comfortable with the seller. Be sure you want it. There is always another one waiting for you. No punishment either on making an offer to seller.
Happy hunting and welcome to the forum

[YCIR]

Originally Posted by joli160

Dear Op, by no means I am an expert, but own a DD 18238 and really love it. I had my own bracelet refurbished and head serviced therefore know that this can be quite expensive.
Perhaps bark is less known or sometimes even considered old fashion and I think because of that the market is smaller for these. Just a thought. These are also much less available. I personally like it, but you have to like it and really enjoy wearing it. Else it's a useless purchase.
Your watch does not come with box/papers. Some people don't care, but if ever you want to resell, it really does matter.
This is also reflected in the asking price imho, which sounds like a decent deal.
First try to get the pictures of the serial number and the bracelet and post these again in the hope David will share his opinion. Perhaps a picture of the movement to make even a better judgement. Ask seller to take the photographs next to a piece of paper with his name.
If it's a reputable trusted seller with credible feedback than this might be over the top.

If I bought it after it checks out I would sent the bracelet to MY in Hong Kong for refurbishment. Ask him not to polish the crown on the clasp. I like to create my own wear and DNA in between the links and in the same time sent the watch head for service to an official RSC, Dallas is the place to go, reading all the positive comments on the forum.
I personally would also let them detail and polish it.
Not sure btw if a bark bracelet can be as easily refurbished as an ordinary one. Something you might wanna check out before hand.
The service recently done as stated by seller is also worthless for me if not accompanied by detailed invoice from Rolex certified watchmaker or AD.
You will receive a nice quotation and a new warranty card from the RSC.
In the time the watch and bracelet are receiving the Spa treatment source a nice period correct original box, manual and tag.

By now you paid 6500 + 1500(bracelet) + 1500(RSC service) + 300(box) = 9300 for a watch and bracelet which are now in very good condition.
Nothing beats the feeling of a near perfect example on your wrist.
If you don't ruin it you should be able to sell this set in a few years time for something similar. Maybe take a little hit, who knows.
I think, don't know for sure, pricing generally is a bit lower compared with the 18038 model. As always condition is key. Have a look at chrono24 or watchrecon for asking prices, which are not the same as selling prices of course.

Obviously you can refrain from doing all this, it'll save you money now but would make it harder to sell in the future. Btw this is something I never consider. Bought only watches which made me happy and all of them still do so

Finally, don't fall in love to easy and don't be afraid to walk away if you are in doubt or not comfortable with the seller. Be sure you want it. There is always another one waiting for you. No punishment either on making an offer to seller.
Happy hunting and welcome to the forum

Hi Joli - thanks so much for your lengthy response. I don't plan on sending it to MY in HK because it is not only expensive, but a watch getting lost in transit internationally is not really my cup of tea at the moment :)

I also have a rather small wrist, like pretty tiny so I fully expect to take off more than a couple links. I hear this is better for the dreaded stretching.

I did buy the watch - for a full $6.5k, which I believe is a pretty good deal. It may take longer to sell (possible?) but I believe I can still make out with more in the end if / when the time comes. The guy is sending me a rolex box, which I believe is not the OG box but fits. I also have a friend who will help with sizing, taking off the band to look at the case numbering (*hoping it matches to 18108 or we will have a MAJOR problem*)

I paid via PP invoice - so I believe it to be okay, the guy had 4.5k feedback on eBay. Paid through PP invoice directly and not eBay to help him save on fees.

I have talked to David and he expressed his thoughts stating it's 100% authentic, whether or not it has mixed components we will not know until the band is removed. He believes I got it at a very good price, but that indeed the market may be tighter than a regular DD. In any regards, I do really like this watch. I feel like it was pretty impulsive, but I do plan on keeping it for at least a year or two. While I do like it and don't mind spending the money, I always try to look at a purchase in investment terms, aka, 'can I sell this for AT LEAST what I bought it for'

[joli160]

Huge congrats :thumbs:
A DD, any one, is such a nice watch. Hope you are going to enjoy it.
Looking forward to the incoming thread with the "obligatory" wrist shot.

[crowncollection]

Originally Posted by YCIR

Hi all,



I'm semi-new to the forum, I've lurked for a few months and I'm finally ready to purchase a DD 18038. However, I do have some questions in terms of the watch I want to buy. The seller is willing to do $6.5k - is this a good deal? Also in terms of selling in the future - I was told this watch may be pretty hard to sell, is this true? Because I do tend to get sick of things pretty quickly.



First off - how are people's feelings about the bark finish vs. the smooth finish? I do LOVE the yellow gold - but not sure of someone's perception of the 'bark' finish vs smooth on the band. Also - if 'bark', does this still constitute the watch as being OG? Because from most DD's, I've only seen a smooth finish. I do think I like bark more - just wanted to know if it's a 'cheaper' look.



Also - can anyone tell me about stretch? Seller says it's a 3 on a scale from 1-10, 10 being the worst stretch. I know this is apparently a very big deal and I don't want the watch to be stretched which ultimately comes down to melting the watch in the end.



He has also a authenticity card from IWA and also states the fact that the diamond bezel is FACTORY. I have a very difficult time believing this. He does not have papers/box, but can provide a different one and the authenticity card. I don't particular mind the OG box / papers, but I do buy and sell shoes so I do know the gripe without having all OG everything.



How can one tell the authenticity on:



The hands?

The glass?

The bezel?



Anyways, here are some photos:

AND THE KICKER

What was the outcome ? Was it a real 18108 ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[YCIR]

Originally Posted by crowncollection

What was the outcome ? Was it a real 18108 ?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Dave - I'm receiving the package later on today and will post an update!

[YCIR]

Hi ya'll - here is the watch. Stretch looks worse than pictures he sent - do you agree/disagree?

[teqp]

Originally Posted by YCIR

Hi ya'll - here is the watch. Stretch looks worse than pictures he sent - do you agree/disagree?

Not too much. In his photo he is tilting the head backwards, this makes it appear like there is less stretch. Where in your photo you are holding the head more straight up and down. To me though it appears more than a 3 out of 10 for stretch as you stated he told you.

[YCIR]

Also - bad news. I took off the band and the case states it is a 18038. Is it better to sell the parts individually or should I just ask for a refund at this point?

[Andad]

The stretch on the bracelet was never anywhere near the sellers 3/10.

Now you have an issue with the model number that should have been confirmed before you bought it.

I would be requesting a refund ASAP.

[southtexas]

As a general notice to readers, if you're buying on eBay, don't pay outside of eBay. You, the buyer, give up ebay's buyer protections by doing so...so that the seller can save fees??


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[YCIR]

Originally Posted by southtexas

As a general notice to readers, if you're buying on eBay, don't pay outside of eBay. You, the buyer, give up ebay's buyer protections by doing so...so that the seller can save fees??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a general rule of thumb - they offer both the same 'protection'.

[YCIR]

Originally Posted by directioneng

The stretch on the bracelet was never anywhere near the sellers 3/10.

Now you have an issue with the model number that should have been confirmed before you bought it.

I would be requesting a refund ASAP.

He is offering a $1350 partial refund - should I take this? In essence, would have paid $5150 for this watch total.

[southtexas]

Originally Posted by YCIR

As a general rule of thumb - they offer both the same 'protection'.

I'm not certain all of the protections overlap; but you don't have the leverage of leaving negative feedback for a seller when buying outside eBay.

Anyways, if you request a refund, I wish you luck.


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[MonBK]

I think the stretch is about the same in both pictures.

The difference is that the seller tilts the head backwards and you're not.

[YCIR]

The seller is offering a $1350 partial - should I take it and just sell?

[southtexas]

Originally Posted by YCIR

The seller is offering a $1350 partial - should I take it and just sell?

You should be alright if you take partial, assuming you don't mind the risk and headaches of selling. You could sell the head, and sell bracelet separately. If bracelet doesn't sell, you can always sell it to a gold buyer.

Otherwise, you could push PayPal return and most likely come out a winner. Did he send you an invoice, if so exactly how was watch described in said invoice.


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[freefly]

Originally Posted by YCIR

Also - bad news. I took off the band and the case states it is a 18038.

That means the bracelet and bezel are not original then. So the question becomes are those items genuine or not? It looks like the clasp is stamped with the correct code for a bark president bracelet, but the coronet on the clasp looks a bit off. Could be OK, but seeing as the watch is a franken to begin with, I'd want to confirm that it's genuine/actual 18k before agreeing to any "partial" refund. Same goes for the bezel (including diamonds). YMMV...