How many of you are into shoes... (Dress Shoes)?

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by blowfish89

Got a good pic

Very nice.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

The primary reason Edward Green no longer does Bespoke is because Tony is no longer with Edward Green. Pretty sure most shoemakers doing bespoke shoes have that one key person as well. John Lobb maybe one that is different but most of the others based on my limited knowledge are smaller shops and are known for that one key guy or at least that is my understanding.

I think your right Dan. One “key” guy.

Cleverleys has the elder statesman John Carnera coming in a couple of days a week...and their main Shop guy Adam . They had a key last maker go to Lobb a year or so ago.

Like others, Cleverleys use shops / craftspeople for piece work near North Hampton and elsewhere...I think the main last making is done in London - though I could be wrong.

[daveathall]

Originally Posted by Speed

Ok. They’re here!

I think they look fabulous, the colour is superb. Many congratulations.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by daveathall

I think they look fabulous, the colour is superb. Many congratulations.

Thank you Sir.
Always a kind / positive word from you. much appreciated.

[texasmade]

Originally Posted by dddrees

The primary reason Edward Green no longer does Bespoke is because Tony is no longer with Edward Green. Pretty sure most shoemakers doing bespoke shoes have that one key person as well. John Lobb maybe one that is different but most of the others based on my limited knowledge are smaller shops and are known for that one key guy or at least that is my understanding.

JL Paris has a workshop with 15 people doing various stages of shoemaking but the still rely on one main guy, Francois, to do the last making. In the US, Paul Wilson will do the measurement and fittings while Francois makes the last.

Berluti has 3 guys with Anthony Delos probably the most famous for their key person.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by texasmade

JL Paris has a workshop with 15 people doing various stages of shoemaking but the still rely on one main guy, Francois, to do the last making. In the US, Paul Wilson will do the measurement and fittings while Francois makes the last.



Berluti has 3 guys with Anthony Delos probably the most famous for their key person.

Do they travel to select US cities / doing trunk shows / measuring etc?

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Do they travel to select US cities / doing trunk shows / measuring etc?

If you think G&G would be expensive.


Keep in mind I haven’t specifically priced either for myself, but I’m fairly certain your talking more and my uneducated guess would be significantly so.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

If you think G&G would be expensive.





Keep in mind I haven’t specifically priced either for myself, but I’m fairly certain your talking more and my uneducated guess would be significantly so.

Yes...expensive. Kirby Allison did a nice listing of Bespoke firms and pricing.

I think the descending order was:

John Lobb
G&G
Foster and Sons
George Cleverley

G&G may be behind Fosters...I forget.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

Yes...expensive. Kirby Allison did a nice listing of Bespoke firms and pricing.

I think the descending order was:

John Lobb
G&G
Foster and Sons
George Cleverley

G&G may be behind Fosters...I forget.

I’m not sure this is an all compassing listing. And by that I don’t mean a whole host of lesser makers, It wouldn’t surprise me if John Lobb is number one but I am surprised to see G&G two. For all I now this may actually be the case but there certainly are more bespoke makers out there and do wonder what the more complete list looks like. Not every one but a bit more than are listed here.

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by Speed

Yes...expensive. Kirby Allison did a nice listing of Bespoke firms and pricing.

I think the descending order was:

John Lobb
G&G
Foster and Sons
George Cleverley

G&G may be behind Fosters...I forget.

Which John Lobb? The Hermes subsidiary, or the original St James St shoppe (John Lobb LTD)?

[texasmade]

Originally Posted by Speed

Do they travel to select US cities / doing trunk shows / measuring etc?

Houston, Costa Mesa, and Miami. Paul only travels to where there’s a JL boutique but he’s based in NYC. If you go there often it’s much easier to get shoes made. I know in 2017 he came to Houston 5 times.

[texasmade]

Originally Posted by Speed

Yes...expensive. Kirby Allison did a nice listing of Bespoke firms and pricing.

I think the descending order was:

John Lobb
G&G
Foster and Sons
George Cleverley

G&G may be behind Fosters...I forget.

http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/08...espoke-prices/

Pretty good listing of prices. The big French names tend to be the most expensive by far since they don’t use outside workers and tend to do everything in house in their workshops. British firms usually do last making in house but the shoemaking in a factory.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/08...espoke-prices/

Pretty good listing of prices. The big French names tend to be the most expensive by far since they don’t use outside workers and tend to do everything in house in their workshops. British firms usually do last making in house but the shoemaking in a factory.

Fabulous, thanks for sharing. I haven’t done any of the conversions but it does appear that At 6,000 Euro that you have John Lobb, Berluti and a few others at the top.

Of course these aren’t prices for anything exotic.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/08...espoke-prices/

Pretty good listing of prices. The big French names tend to be the most expensive by far since they don’t use outside workers and tend to do everything in house in their workshops. British firms usually do last making in house but the shoemaking in a factory.

Of course the second shoe cost less because the Last has already been made. I guess my question would be what if I wanted a different look. I mean not just a different shoe style but a slightly different shape. I mean part of the reason I buy different shoes is to get different looks and the Last does affect the look you get with different shoes. So I wonder if they could do that even if it meant I paid for another Last. The point being the shape or Last would still have to fit but I would want a slightly different shape.

[texasmade]

I know for JL Paris, you can change the last shape for free as long as you’re not switching lasts. Loafers are one last while oxfords, derbies, and monkstraps are on another last. If you ordered an O,D, or M first and then loafers as another order you’d pay a last fee again. If you ordered an O,D, or M and you’re next order is another one of those shoes you can request a modification but it has to be within a year of receiving your first order.

For Corthay it’s a mute point as they charge the same price regardless of 1st order or 2nd. I’m. Or as knowledgeable on the other makers since I’ve never spoken to them in length.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

I know for JL Paris, you can change the last shape for free as long as you’re not switching lasts. Loafers are one last while oxfords, derbies, and monkstraps are on another last. If you ordered an O,D, or M first and then loafers as another order you’d pay a last fee again. If you ordered an O,D, or M and you’re next order is another one of those shoes you can request a modification but it has to be within a year of receiving your first order.

For Corthay it’s a mute point as they charge the same price regardless of 1st order or 2nd. I’m. Or as knowledgeable on the other makers since I’ve never spoken to them in length.

Fully understand and thanks for sharing what you do know.

The rules can often be slightly or totally different depending on which shoemaker your talking about.

[texasmade]

I was shining my dark brown shoes while watching the WC final.
JL Chapel, JL 2011, and Corthay Arca Buckle.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

I was shining my dark brown shoes while watching the WC final.
JL Chapel, JL 2011, and Corthay Arca Buckle.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Very nice.

If not for the slight splash of color and that happens to be brown those Corthays look fairly mild when compared to most I’ve seen.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by texasmade

I was shining my dark brown shoes while watching the WC final.
JL Chapel, JL 2011, and Corthay Arca Buckle.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wow!

Those are gorgeous.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

Which John Lobb? The Hermes subsidiary, or the original St James St shoppe (John Lobb LTD)?

The main shop in St James. Believe it’s 7,000 pounds for a pair of Bespoke shoes.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

The main shop in St James. Believe it’s 7,000 pounds for a pair of Bespoke shoes.

6,000 Euros according to that list. No idea what that converts to.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by dddrees

6,000 Euros according to that list. No idea what that converts to.

My bad. That equates to $7,000 USD

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

My bad. That equates to $7,000 USD

Ah, what’s 1k between friends anyway?

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by Speed

My bad. That equates to $7,000 USD

Not bad for a shop with two royal warrants.

[Speed]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

Not bad for a shop with two royal warrants.

I don’t begrudge them any value they can extract.They charge extra for shoe trees as well as I understand. I think they are included in the $7k’usd.

The price is a bit too dear for me...Styles are classic, but I prefer Cleverley.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Speed

I don’t begrudge them any value they can extract.They charge extra for shoe trees as well as I understand. I think they are included in the $7k’usd.

The price is a bit too dear for me...Styles are classic, but I prefer Cleverley.

Yeah, that price would have reduced my footwear wardrobe drastically.

[texasmade]

They don’t even do fittings from what George Glasgow and Nicholas Templeman say. JLSJ basically take your measurements and then name your shoes.

JL Paris will do multiple fittings to make sure it’s right. I’ve done 4 fittings with them on my first pair before they were satisfied with everything.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

They don’t even do fittings from what George Glasgow and Nicholas Templeman say. JLSJ basically take your measurements and then name your shoes.

JL Paris will do multiple fittings to make sure it’s right. I’ve done 4 fittings with them on my first pair before they were satisfied with everything.

Seriously, they’re charging $7,000 and in the meantime you’re taking your measurements with a do it yourself kit at home?

Hey, if that’s the case more power to them. They’ve found a way to get a way with doing less and still make more.

[texasmade]

They take your measurements but after that there’s no trial shoe to see how well they made the last. It’s just measurements and then final shoe.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by texasmade

They take your measurements but after that there’s no trial shoe to see how well they made the last. It’s just measurements and then final shoe.

Yeah still not what I typically think of when it comes to the various experiences that I have read. Thing is, if people are still buying them then it must work. I question how great the fit is however. Being able to put them on and wear them is one thing but truly being the best fit is another.