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13 October 2019, 03:57 AM | #3511 | |
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I have a Brooks Brothers here locally, I will look into Peal and Co. shoes, hopefully they still carry them. You essentially answered my question. I am looking at the Hand Grade C & J Audley oxford which is a cut above Carmina and Bench Grade C&J if I understood correctly. |
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13 October 2019, 04:02 AM | #3512 | |
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Keep in mind although they may list it on the website the smaller Brooks Brother stores specifically rarely carry very many but can get whatever shoe or boot and a few different sizes for you to try on. You may want to call in advance if looking for something in particular. Good Luck.
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16 October 2019, 02:48 AM | #3513 | |
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I have found the Carmina Black Captoe Oxford 80386 in the rain last for around $400 shipped . I have also narrowed my search down to the Audley hand grade C&J for just under $600 shipped that I was able to source out of the UK. I know I've read a lot that Carmina is under priced/valued versus the quality they produce. I don't want to beat a dead horse but I was just wanting to check and get another pulse from you if you think the $200 premium is really worth it for the hand grade C&J's before I pull the trigger...? Note: I can also get the Lonsdale hand grade black captoe for the same price as the Audley black captoe but the 363 last looks a little too long on the Lonsdale. The Audley has that classic but elegant modern look to it. IMO The 337 last of the Audley looks nicer to me than the 363 last of the Lonsdale. Brooks Brothers doesn't have a simple plain captoe oxford in the Peal and Co. line by C&J so that rules that out . Looking forward to your thoughts... Thanks |
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16 October 2019, 03:18 AM | #3514 | |
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16 October 2019, 11:16 AM | #3515 | |
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I’m not ready to break the bank just yet. Maybe in a couple of years if I get spoiled . |
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16 October 2019, 02:11 PM | #3516 |
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Once you find a couple of C&J lasts you like, you will be fine with this brand as your daily wear shoes. I really like the 341 and 348 lasts for my lower volume foot with a narrower heel.
Bench grade is fine. A notch or three above Allen Edmonds, Too Boot or Magnani. Hand grade gains better leather selection, nominally more detailed stitching and fiddle backed soles on some. Worth $200??? Only if the shoe speaks to you. At some point in your travels, stop by a Carmina shop and get fitted for the last. The Rain worked okay for me but not as great as C&J. Warning though, if you find an Edward Green last you like, all other shoes are rendered irrelevant. Dammitt.
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16 October 2019, 03:20 PM | #3517 | |
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Fit is KING and that would always be my number one concern. If it don't fit you'll never wear it. Hard to say at this point which Lasts will and will not work for you. I've got Lasts that work but don't fit as good as others and this took a few to figure this out. I enjoy wearing those that fit best the most. Luckily I have a lot of shoes and boots which not only appeal to me visually but also fit me real well. Once I went with Edward Green and Gaziano and Girling they all worked real well for me and in fact those are most of my better fitting shoes and boots. This of course may or may not be the case for you. By the way the Rain Last works for me but it's not as great as a fit as some of the Lasts from Edward Green and Gaziano and Girling. Aesthetics', details, craftmanship, elegant Lasts, better designs, and better leather for me are the things that I enjoy. What is that rule of diminishing returns again? The more you spend the less you get. After all whether you pay a little over $300 or $1500 it's still a pair of shoes. I've yet to regret paying more for my footwear. Some may and some may not find the difference worth the extra money. For those that don't, then your better not too. As I said I greatly enjoy these details so the return on my investment is money well spent. Many gentleman in my position who enjoy footwear actually chose the Black Captoe Oxford to spend less money on. It certainly takes something for one to stand out over another because after all they are all just a Black CapToe Oxford. However for me this one shoe is basically the standard shoe and it's something I wear fairly frequently. But generally speaking details are what I find extremely enjoyable. More elegant patterns, more refined Lasts, better leather, and better attention to detail. I chose to go with the Edward Green Chelsea for my Black CapToe Oxford. My other option and often I still think I should have gone the John Lobb route. However I didn't have the ability to try their Last for the City or Phillip at the time. The Edward Green 82 was a known Last that fits me real well. When initially buying shoes and boots I started with Allen Edmonds and went up from there. My only regret even though it helped me understand the differences from the very Bottom Tier to the very Top Tier when it came shoemakers was that I spent a lot of money starting at the bottom before going to the top where I find myself the happiest. Can't guarantee you would ever say the same. However a good way to tell would at least to get out somewhere where you could see a number of these offerings in person. Not always easy of course depending on location. For what I spent on Crockett and Jones I could have a few more Carmina for the same price. In fact when I purchased my Crockett and Jones I could have even more Carminas because at that time they cost even less. However I can tell you I prefer the Crockett and Jones more. At least the ones I chose. But as I said my choices are all about comparing what's out there and choosing the one that appeals to me most and not what will cost me the least. But comparing shoes to shoes and boots to boots I see the difference and Handmade Crockett and Jones to me are better than Carmina. At a certain point because I spent a good while familiarizing myself with the various items from all kinds of shoemakers and knew which Lasts worked for me I was strictly choosing only those which fit and which appealed most to me. At that point Carmina had long ago no longer appealed to me. I do still have a few pairs and I still wear them but they no longer would be what I would buy because there are others that appeal more to me. Great shoes, great value, just not in the same league as others I own. You can't go wrong with Carmina, but no longer something I would chose.
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16 October 2019, 03:22 PM | #3518 | |
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But that really is true for most Top Tier Shoemakers. I could have said the same for Gaziano and Girling, John Lobb, and Saint Crispin's.
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16 October 2019, 03:43 PM | #3519 |
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Once you go bespoke, all the top tier RTW become irrelevant. I've basically stopped buying MTO or RTW shoes now and blow my money on bespoke. I've only purchased 2 John Lobb casual loafers in the past 3 years and that was mainly because they were on sale. I have 1 pair of John Lobb Paris bespoke and just ordered 1 more pair today. I also have a pair of Pierre Corthay bespoke in the pipeline.
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16 October 2019, 03:55 PM | #3520 | |
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16 October 2019, 11:07 PM | #3521 | |
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cause if the shoe doesn’t fit it may as well just sit in the box or just be a piece of art ! The only thing I can refer to is my new AE Park Ave’s I received as a gift recently. 9D US size and they fit great. Only thing is the laces have a slight V when tying them up but from what I’m told by AE shoe fitter they will break in and close up a little more. If I go to a 9E the laces might Close the gap ( I have a high instep) all the way but then the entire shoes will be wider and roomier. If I go to a 8.5 E in the Park Ave’s the toe box might be too tight as the 9D’s are just the right length. Onto the new ones I’m looking at . I’m pretty much a normal 9D with a higher instep . Of the lasts mentioned any recommendations? UK sizing I believe I’m a 8E. I just ordered a pair from J Fitzpatrick with brogueing in a 8E UK and with thicker socks they fit nicely on his MFG last as the laces close up nicely too. . I have gotten properly measured and am a 9D. I also won’t be traveling anytime soon so I’m going to have to order online and hope I get it right the first time without shipping back and forth. The Carmina rain last looks to accommodate a higher instep but the last design of the 337 C&J looks slightly sleeker. Both nice designs though. RRP is $475 for Carmina and $840 for the C&J Audley. But like I mentioned I was able to source both at a slight discount. Do any of you gentlemen have either of these models in C&J ? Audley or Lonsdale hand grade ? Was looking at the Hallam bench grade 348 last (very sleek) but the suppler said the price difference is minimal between the two and may as well get the hand grade . |
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16 October 2019, 11:24 PM | #3522 | |
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I have a slightly higher instep and found the Rain Last to be a good fit. I steered clear of most Crockett and Jones shoe Lasts because for one thing although they look sleek they also look a bit off and funky to me and about this time I just started purchasing Edward Green and went with the 82 Last which works real well for me. You might want to check out Styleforum and their Crockett and Jones Appreciation thread. They have a thread on most shoemakers where users talk quite a bit about fit. I was able to use this to help guide me when buying shoes I was unable to try on. It wasn't perfect and nothing substitutes actually doing it in person but since I have a fairly average foot it was a tremendous help.
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16 October 2019, 11:33 PM | #3523 | |
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the appreciation threads. I’m starting to think as I got another nod from Kirby Allison’s team to just get the Carmina’s for now and save the rest for another pair, Maybe EG or GG eventually... ? This maybe worst than the watch addiction... |
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16 October 2019, 11:40 PM | #3524 | |
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I've found any hobby or appreciation for anything can be that way. Oh well, I'm enjoying it.
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16 October 2019, 11:42 PM | #3525 | |
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16 October 2019, 11:42 PM | #3526 |
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Im addicted to John Lobbs!
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16 October 2019, 11:46 PM | #3527 |
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Some AE PTBs today.
Not exactly dressy, but comfortable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
16 October 2019, 11:47 PM | #3528 |
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16 October 2019, 11:49 PM | #3529 | |
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Also got a couple pairs of Meermin shoes - half price of Carmina, goodyear welted as well and very good value. Cheers Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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16 October 2019, 11:54 PM | #3530 |
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17 October 2019, 12:02 AM | #3531 | |
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This is a great explanation of priorities. Since I am retired, I mostly wear loafers from Gucci and Prada, have one lace-up blue wingtip on runner shoe bottom from Prada, and a double monk from acemark (both not shown).
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17 October 2019, 12:31 AM | #3532 | |
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17 October 2019, 12:34 AM | #3533 |
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I really wish I hadn't found this thread. I love seeing all the great shoes, but my wallet is sweaty, and shaking at the mere thought of the thinning this thread may cause.
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17 October 2019, 01:36 AM | #3534 | |
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At least with Allen Edmonds their customer service is renowned and they are more than happy to replace your shoes no matter how many pairs it take to get it right and they are stateside.
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17 October 2019, 01:47 AM | #3535 | |
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All I'm saying is that for the price they're pretty terrific. Opinions differ Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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17 October 2019, 02:28 AM | #3536 |
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I have C&J, Church's (Who are owned by Prada) Loake (which are fabulous value for money and the 1880 range are made in England), Trickers which were my first good shoe and built to last and super comfy, a couple of pairs of Cheaney who, interestingly enough are owned by Church's. All are good shoes but one can tell the hierarchy and quality by their individual price points. To me, not a lot of difference between my C&J, Church's and Trickers, all 3 being in the £400 ($500) price range.
All are great shoes from the cheapest to my most expensive and all will last longer than me.
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17 October 2019, 02:33 AM | #3537 | |
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With AE you can actually say that they mass produce in such mass quantity it's a very expensive proposition to catch and stop more mistakes than they actually sell. In fact that is exactly what the CEO said in a few open posts on Styleforum. Anyway he touted his customer service as the way to address this, and from what I've read they in fact really do a good job there. With Meerimen when you hit that lotto and your stateside your kind of stuck with what you got or just call it a loss.
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When it captures your imagination, that's when you know you have found your passion. Loyal Foot Soldier of The Nylon Nation. Card Carrying Member of the Global Association of Retro-Grouch-Curmudgeons |
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17 October 2019, 02:36 AM | #3538 | |
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They opened a store in NYC recently. I travel often there for work and that makes it easy to choose something that works. Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
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17 October 2019, 02:44 AM | #3539 | |
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Among the things that greatly cuts down the mistakes that higher tier shoemakers make are not only the attention to detail but the lower volume, higher expectations, and the fact that most men's shoes specializing in these shoes will also go to greater lengths to ensure their customers are happy.
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When it captures your imagination, that's when you know you have found your passion. Loyal Foot Soldier of The Nylon Nation. Card Carrying Member of the Global Association of Retro-Grouch-Curmudgeons |
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5 November 2019, 04:48 AM | #3540 |
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Some Carmina double monks just coming in. Love at first sight
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