How many of you are into shoes... (Dress Shoes)?

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by EEpro

Are these brown CXL? The pic is just fuzzy enough they could pass for (new) waxed flesh on my phone.

Brown CXL

[dddrees]

Viberg Service Boot® 310 BCT - Marrone Washed Kangaroo – 10 ½

Until this point the 2030 was for the most part the only Last that really appealed to me from Viberg with the exception of their Hiking Boots possibly one day. In fact I would say the 310 Last may have been the last Last I would have ever considered purchasing. What can I say, tastes change, besides the fact the leather on these just caught my eye. Anyway I'm actually surprised how good these fit me. A bit of room in the toe box but other than that a good snug fit when sizing down an entire size as recommended. The leather has a better texture than what I was able to capture, and Viberg did a much better job than I could. The leather also makes these boots pretty light as well, so they most certainly be in contrast to the Viberg in 2030 I own and the Whites and Nicks boots as well. There are just some occasions when never doesn't always mean never. I like them, and for me it fills a void in my collection.

[White Collar Boy]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Viberg Service Boot® 310 BCT - Marrone Washed Kangaroo – 10 ½...

Thanks for taking the time to write these reviews Dan. Well written and both the recent Nicks and these Vibergs look great. The Nicks really do look like Iron Rangers and I won’t/can’t dispute any differences. I can say that, since removing the additional padded insoles I had in my Iron Rangers, I love wearing them and they feel broken in.

I hear you on Chromexcel, too. I have it on some Alden ‘Dovers’ and the Indy, which is my favourite of any shoe/boot I have (I know there are better out there!).

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

Thanks for taking the time to write these reviews Dan. Well written and both the recent Nicks and these Vibergs look great. The Nicks really do look like Iron Rangers and I won’t/can’t dispute any differences. I can say that, since removing the additional padded insoles I had in my Iron Rangers, I love wearing them and they feel broken in.

I hear you on Chromexcel, too. I have it on some Alden ‘Dovers’ and the Indy, which is my favourite of any shoe/boot I have (I know there are better out there!).

Does sound like the padded insoles were causing more harm than good. Glad you figured it out. I personally haven't had the need to do that with any of my boots or shoes and I can see especially with a boot or shoe where your actually wearing in your footbed where that could get in the way.

I figured I would take a quick picture to try and give people a visual of what I am talking about. So I took a picture of one of my Nicks next to my Redwing Beckmans which although not Iron Rangers they are still in the same class and would use pretty much the same components to include leather and leather thickness. In person the differences are pretty glaring, this picture hopefully gives you an idea what I am talking about. But with regards to leather thickness and weight the Nicks is on steroids when compared to the Redwing and that doesn't even include the construction that Nicks Boots uses.

[White Collar Boy]

That does look considerably thicker and I imagine will age well.

I think the next shoes I buy will most likely be a replacement for my Sperry Topsiders which I wear more than anything, and are now looking a bit like battered slippers. I’m keen to try a Rancourt Ranger Moc.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

That does look considerable thicker and I imagine will age well.

I think the next shoes I buy will most likely be a replacement for my Sperry Topsiders which I wear more than anything, and are now looking a bit like battered slippers. I’m keen to try a Rancourt Ranger Moc.

For boots like this and given my rotation they'll look fairly new for a long time to come.

Rancourts are nice I have a few myself. Not sure if you missed their Spring sale yet or not but I imagine if you haven't you wouldn't have much time left but you could have saved a good bit if you haven't and you chose one of the ones they have on sale. The other options being Oakstreet Bootmakers and Quoddy. But frankly I don't prefer the way Quoddy does their laces by making them part of the shoe and Oakstreet although nice just don't have near the options Rancourt does.

[White Collar Boy]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Rancourts are nice I have a few myself. Not sure if you missed their Spring sale yet or not but I imagine if you haven't you wouldn't have much time left but…

Thanks Dan. I missed their sale but it’s all good, I’ll probably just wait ‘til I try some on. I remember looking at Quoddy and Oakstreet Bootmakers maybe two years ago when you mentioned them in another thread. At the time, I was just coming out of 11 years of veganism and not owning anything leather: it was exciting finding out what nice shoes were out there and getting into it. I’d never appreciated good shoes before. Like someone who isn’t into watches and thinks it’s insane to spend more than a few hundred, I previously felt the same about shoes.

Part of my dropping veganism (a complete abandonment by the way: there is no vestigial virtue signalling happening here) was a burgeoning understanding that nothing is really so clear cut: cheap faux-leather or textile things that require replacing every six months are bad for the environment as well as the wallet. So the idea of buying something that can last 30 years with resoling appealed a lot.

Anyway, contradicting that buy-for-life ethos a bit, I think the Sperrys were the first leather shoes I bought as an adult. Now that they’re thrashed, I won’t be throwing them out because I think they have a certain appeal as faux house slippers. As well as being more structured, the Rancourts (for me, the Ranger Moc) simply look a little cooler, IMO. A smidgeon less preppy than the boat shoes, but perhaps not…

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

Thanks Dan. I missed their sale but it’s all good, I’ll probably just wait ‘til I try some on. I remember looking at Quoddy and Oakstreet Bootmakers maybe two years ago when you mentioned them in another thread. At the time, I was just coming out of 11 years of veganism and not owning anything leather: it was exciting finding out what nice shoes were out there and getting into it. I’d never appreciated good shoes before. Like someone who isn’t into watches and thinks it’s insane to spend more than a few hundred, I previously felt the same about shoes.

Part of my dropping veganism (a complete abandonment by the way: there is no vestigial virtue signalling happening here) was a burgeoning understanding that nothing is really so clear cut: cheap faux-leather or textile things that require replacing every six months are bad for the environment as well as the wallet. So the idea of buying something that can last 30 years with resoling appealed a lot.

Anyway, contradicting that buy-for-life ethos a bit, I think the Sperrys were the first leather shoes I bought, but now that they’re thrashed, I won’t be throwing them out because I think they have a certain appeal as faux house slippers. As well as being more structured, the Rancourts (for me, the Ranger Moc) simply look a little cooler I think. Perhaps a smidgeon less preppy than the boat shoes, perhaps not…

Interesting, and I think you have a point there. I can't claim to be that ethical myself when it comes to animals and such. I guess the thing that most concerns me would either be abuse or using resources to the point where we would wasting and over use it. For example what they did to the Buffalo's in the 19th century was just such a travesty in my opinion. I guess I just grew up at a time when leather and good shoes were more the norm. My mom made it a point to make sure I had a pair of good shoes every year. That's how I grew up and sometimes those things you learn early become a part of you. I may have changed my mind about somethings but not this anyway.

[White Collar Boy]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Interesting, and I think you have a point there. I can't claim to be that ethical myself when it comes to animals and such. I guess the thing that most concerns me would either be abuse or using resources to the point where we would wasting and over use it. For example what they did to the Buffalo's in the 19th century was just such a travesty in my opinion. I guess I just grew up at a time when leather and good shoes were more the norm. My mom made it a point to make sure I had a pair of good shoes every year. That's how I grew up and sometimes those things you learn early become a part of you. I may have changed my mind about somethings but not this anyway.

Yeah, those are good things to be concerned about. If I think too much about it, I get a little uncomfortable, but as insane and pointless as it sounds, I just try to be privately grateful to the animal. Sometimes I’ll say to myself, “sorry cow [or horse], but thank you cow!” What can you do. At least these things last and are appreciated.

If I’m honest, more than durability, it’s appreciating the quality and style of good shoes. Well-shod, you can relax a little more about whatever other style choices are made, because it’s literally and figuratively foundational.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

Yeah, those are good things to be concerned about. If I think too much about it, I get a little uncomfortable, but as insane and pointless as it sounds, I just try to be privately grateful to the animal. Sometimes I’ll say to myself, “sorry cow [or horse], but thank you cow!” What can you do. At least these things last and are appreciated.

If I’m honest, more than durability, it’s appreciating the quality and style of good shoes. Well-shod, you can relax a little more about whatever other style choices are made, because it’s literally and figuratively foundational.

Well, it's definitely the craftmanship, design, quality, durability, and beauty of some of the ones I own that appeals to me. I mean once you get to a certain level most resoled shoes use the same construction with the exception of those like Nicks Boots. Something on the lower tier like a Redwing for example may use some components in the construction which are synthetic but generally at mid tier this isn't taking place. So there are other things besides just durability. Edward Green and Gaziano and Girling would be excellent examples of this. There designs are much more refined and their finishing is to die for but your really not getting any more increased durability with exceptioon of their leather soles which do happen to be of better oak tanned leather when compared to less costly shoes. Of course the leather they use on their uppers is top notch as well.

Note: Nothing is more important than fit. You don't have it, it's not going to work.

[dddrees]

For what it’s worth I shared this elsewhere when someone asked whether the cost would be worth it to buy a more expensive pair of Nicks Boots vs Redwings in attempting to get a more comfortable boot. Anyway I thought I would share it here as well.

The question you asked has many more variables than just cost. Cost alone does not guarantee a comfortable wearing boot or shoe. Keep in mind comfort is an individual preference and not everyone will agree on everything.

Personally I find the shoes and boots that have the Lasts which fit me the best to be the most comfortable. More of those that fit me best happen to be with the most expensive shoes and boots I own such as the case with my Edward Greens and Gaziano & Girlings. It just so happens more expensive footwear also as a result of better designs use sleeker Lasts that result in a more snug fit which basically many people agree are better wearing overall. Not only snug but those Lasts have a shape more closely aligned to my foot which is extremely important. There’s a good reason people pay good money for bespoke footwear where the Last conforms to their specific feet.

Those boots and shoes that use better materials tend to be more comfortable as well and of course this cost more.
I have yet to break in my Nicks boots I received a few weeks ago but they do fit me snug from heel to ball of my foot so I expect once I break them in they will be extremely comfortable. They are heavier than your normal footwear so there is that, but that hasn't been an issue for me with my Vibergs or Whites. They are heavier than a Redwing and this has everything to do with the thicker leather and often thicker soles being used. No synthetics and no cork in a Nicks Boot so they use heavier material there as well.

My Redwing Beckmans and Wolverines do not fit my foot very snug and hence they are not as comfortable as my Viberg 2030 in the D width and my Whites on the 55 Last which are snug. More people wear Redwings and Wolverines but I don't believe they tend to be the best fitting boots for most people just because they can wear them. However I believe a good many of these people may also not be aware what a truly good fit for them would mean. You don’t know what you haven’t experienced. My Vibergs or Whites aren't as comfortable as my Edward Greens but then again they aren't as snug fitting overall as my Edward Greens and they are heavier boots. But as I said because they are more snug fitting than my Redwings or Wolverines they are more comfortable than those boots which use wider (Blobbier) Lasts.

Does a more expensive boot or shoe guarantee a more comfortable shoe or boot? NO
I own a few Crockett and Jones and as beautiful their Boots their Lasts are not the best fitting Lasts for my foot. But more snug fitting footwear does, and in most cases those are more often my more expensive footwear.

It's important to keep in mind that most footwear regardless of cost often use the same materials when it comes to their footbed especially once you get beyond the lowest price point. Not all, but many and this has a good deal to do with comfort as well. Edward Greens are basically constructed using the same materials that Allen Edmonds uses with regards to their footbed. So what you may be left with is fit which greatly determines comfort and the sole being used. Edward Green does use a much better leather sole than what a Allen Edmonds shoe uses however.

Nicks by the way is an exception to its construction as very few shoemakers and bootmakers uses the construction method that Nicks does. Most find that construction after break in resulting in a very comfortable wearing boot. Arch support also greatly increases comfort when wearing shoes and boots so you also need to take this into consideration and generally speaking you don't get this on a cheaper boot either.

Soles and the types of soles being used and depending what you walk on and whether that sole is designed to work with that surface can have a great deal to do with comfort as well. A good bit of the time less expensive boots don't give you as many options. Although not all more expensive boots do either.

[dddrees]

Came across this today and thought some people here might find this fairly helpful.

Ranking Best Men's RTW Shoes, $200-500 (47 BEST & WORST Brands!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5p2TX5cCCb8

Ranking Men's RTW Shoes over $500 (28 BEST & WORST Brands!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwPs6fRZ5zs

[flyinghell34]

Picked up my first pair of Thursday boots.

Went against their recommendation to size down a 1/2 size and returned the first pair I received. Their return process was super was easy. Printed a return postage label provided and the new size was sent out even before I retuned the originals.

I think these are a nice addition for the fall. They seem well constructed and look great in person.

[White Collar Boy]

Originally Posted by flyinghell34

Picked up my first pair of Thursday boots…

They look good. Sounds like great customer service too which is good to know, thanks.

[AF_Rob]

My recent Lucchese pickup. May wear them tomorrow.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Sperry]

Just got a pair of Aldens back from recrafting - snuff, I think . . . My mid-beater pair. They won't touch the full-blown beater pair. I've got one dressier pair, tan, in reserve for afternoon garden parties between May and September; great with linen.

Glove soft Tan suede calfskin upper
Veg Tanned Leather insoles
360 Degree Goodyear Welt
Single leather outsoles
Dovetail Heels
Van Last

[austinp]

Originally Posted by AF_Rob

My recent Lucchese pickup. May wear them tomorrow.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very nice. Lucchese makes wonderful boots.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[White Collar Boy]

Originally Posted by Sperry

Just got a pair of Aldens back from recrafting - snuff, I think . . . My mid-beater pair. They won't touch the full-blown beater pair. I've got one dressier pair, tan, in reserve for afternoon garden parties between May and September; great with linen.

Glove soft Tan suede calfskin upper
Veg Tanned Leather insoles
360 Degree Goodyear Welt
Single leather outsoles
Dovetail Heels
Van Last

Loafers? Would be keen to see them Jim. Big fan of Alden.

[Sperry]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

Loafers? Would be keen to see them Jim. Big fan of Alden.

These are c.2010 - 2012. Center rear Alden refuses to recraft.

[Sperry]

Obligatory enhanced heel image. Not sweating the oil stains in the suede was part of the deal in getting these through Alden’s recrafting department.

[Sperry]

The Alden 986 are the Color 8 cordovan, while the 987 is their black.

6244F are suede tan and 6243F are snuff (most common; I’ve two pair, and wear the beaters to the pool and in the garden and such).

The tan suede and black cordovan were ordered but didn’t take more than a few weeks at the time.

I wear the black shoes infrequently these days; they went back for a bit of stitching and came back new. They’re my ’go to service’ shoes.

[White Collar Boy]

They look great Jim! Even the really beat pair. I don’t have the suede, but have some 986 Color 8s which I love — they just don’t look as nonchalant as the unlined suede ones though. Very nice.

[Sperry]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

they just don’t look as nonchalant as the unlined suede ones

Nonchalance is not a shoe, it's a mindset. I once even saw a guy wearing them - without socks, of course - in gym shorts and a tee. Carrying a camera with telephoto lens near university.

Cordovan is perfect, in fact. Take your fav jeans, wear them low for a bit to fray the cuffs. Dig out a REALLY nice 100% wool sweater which works with the jeans. Throw it in the washer with the towels. Then the dryer. Oops! But it now has 25-30 years of age on it.

Fav sweater from your college days + worn jeans + Alden cordovan loafers w/o socks = instant classic autumn look. All of the guy's wives will be stealing glances over their frozen daiquiris at your casual, nonchalant elegance on Sunday afternoon football parties.

[White Collar Boy]

Haha!

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Sperry

Nonchalance is not a shoe, it's a mindset. I once even saw a guy wearing them - without socks, of course - in gym shorts and a tee. Carrying a camera with telephoto lens near university.

Cordovan is perfect, in fact. Take your fav jeans, wear them low for a bit to fray the cuffs. Dig out a REALLY nice 100% wool sweater which works with the jeans. Throw it in the washer with the towels. Then the dryer. Oops! But it now has 25-30 years of age on it.

Fav sweater from your college days + worn jeans + Alden cordovan loafers w/o socks = instant classic autumn look. All of the guy's wives will be stealing glances over their frozen daiquiris at your casual, nonchalant elegance on Sunday afternoon football parties.

Exactly.

[dnd2984]

Shell cordovan junkie here...

Most of the collection is CJ, few Aldens, and one pair of AE.

[JasoninDenver]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Exactly.

Italians call it “Sprezzatura”. Like Stanley Tucci in his CNN show.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by dnd2984

Shell cordovan junkie here...

Most of the collection is CJ, few Aldens, and one pair of AE.

I did that, but then I found that calf simply had more character. Especially when they have been finished better or as some call it antique.

[White Collar Boy]

Would love to see some sprezzatura fails. Intentional sauce stains on a vintage Brooks Brothers OCBD? Iced-out Hublot over the lower sleeve of said shirt, a terrible imitation of Agnelli? Fly of Mashburn 501s knowingly down… Actually I don’t want to see any of that.

[JasoninDenver]

Originally Posted by White Collar Boy

Would love to see some sprezzatura fails. Intentional sauce stains on a vintage Brooks Brothers OCBD? Iced-out Hublot over the lower sleeve of said shirt, a terrible imitation of Agnelli? Fly of Mashburn 501s knowingly down… Actually I don’t want to see any of that.

Unfortunately, I am one big Sprezzatura fail.