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18 October 2024, 07:43 AM | #421 | |
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It’s a very unusual situation of what Patek is doing - trying to eclipse its own product with another similarly looking product but at higher price point. |
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18 October 2024, 07:47 AM | #422 | |
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I stand corrected. The conversation was more like: STERN: "Patek needs a new watch line. We need younger people, to create a new generation of Patek collectors!" FINANCE/SALES/MARKETING/DESIGN/TECHNICAL PEOPLE (in unison): "What were you think boss?" STERN: "Make something that looks like a Nautilus, but not a Nautilus. And call it something like Nautilus, but not Nautilus." FINANCE/SALES/MARKETING/DESIGN/TECHNICAL PEOPLE (in unison): "Done boss!" STERN: "Oh, and charge $40K base. We don't want the riff raff around Patek,, and we got to make the company look nice and rich for LV." FINANCE/SALES/MARKETING/DESIGN/TECHNICAL PEOPLE (in unison): "But boss....I thought you said you wanted a younger crowd and new generation of collectors...and......." STERN (cutting them off): "I SAID CHARGE $40K BASE." FINANCE/SALES/MARKETING/DESIGN/TECHNICAL PEOPLE (in unison): "Done boss. Done." |
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18 October 2024, 07:56 AM | #423 | |
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LOL. Pretty funny stuff. We need some Swiss RF people to give us a version that reflects Swiss watchmaking business culture. One wonders how these meetings really do happen. |
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18 October 2024, 07:57 AM | #424 |
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18 October 2024, 07:59 AM | #425 |
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A few thoughts.
First, I'm not a fan of the Cubitus. I loved the Nautilus and my shaped tastes over the years are "troubled" by this change. However, there are a lot of examples showing that aesthetics is not absolute but relative and evolves over time (same with car lines, headlights/talelights, rim diameters or with 1990's large clothes vs 2010's slimmer ones or rounder 1990's office men shoes vs 2000's "pointed" ones later on, etc...). So who knows in the future what we'll all feel like. The Nautilus in 1976 was badly welcome and the Aquanaut wasn't successful in the early and mid 2010's. They've just made a Square-shaped Nautilus. Like a Santos or other square models, they felt it's a trend to engage in. At least as a diversification. The size seems far too huge for me but I'll move on, there are other fishes in the sea. I agree I was searching for the delight of being surprised by something excitingly new. It's not for me but it's not enough to be excessive :) If we don't like it, we should look somewhere else and not disgust others from liking it :( Nobody is forced to buy it. The price in these luxury fields doesn't depend on what "seems" normal. They are already out of proportion since many years. By the way we should more consider the MSRP minus the "out of the shop" loss than the MSRP alone. The net loss is more interesting to assess. That usually makes Patek more "interesting", financially wise (and explains why so many are keen on Patek versus other similar level brands I won't name). A 80k watch with 10K loss or a 60K watch with a 15k loss? Furthermore, I had a look at the 5822 Presskit. It's not a standard model. Here is what I found: - Most of watches get a normal (long) date disk change (I don't remember the word, when it's not "instantaneous"). Brands don't care about instantaneous jumps. Not profitable on a marketing level, too bothersome to set to be worth it. The 5822P is equipped with an instantaneous jump (like expensive Pateks or the 5200 Gondolo for the date iirc), this is not any kind of improvement: not only for one element but for both date disks, the day and the moonphase which is a technical rarity. This doesn't happen on below 100K Pateks. That's the result of what they had in the 5208 and started implement in the 5236QP => Energy consumption savings. Adding elements, adds friction and brings bad consequences for wear and accuracy. They are the only ones to work that deep on this matter together with time keeping (tourbillon level with the 26-330). Even though it doesn't show-off. Juste like the spiromax V.2 included in the 5650G for the first time before being introduced in all the 26-330 (which replaces the 324). They prefer a shorter power reserve with better accuracy on the whole curve and smaller spring barrels than the double with much lower performance in the last quarter and bigger barrels. - Coplanar disks for the double date which allows thinner movement (thus case). Indeed the Lange big date for instance is thicker because both disks aren't on the same level. This is from the 5236P as well, together with its anti double jump system (more details here https://www.hightime-reviews.com/pat...-and-pictures/ ). And it seems that we can now correct the date elements at any time of the day (even inside the DeathZone during which the date switch is engaged). These are practical elements, that improve the watch for an everyday life and that remain below radar. The presskit says it adds only 0.77mm to the caliber. Room management is why Patek is different as well from other brands. I understand the deception regarding aesthetics but let's not rush. Patek, technically hasn't become what they are by accident. Just sharing the additional infos I found. Edit: I've just seen the video after I wrote this. It looks very thin (though too large for my wrist) and rather very elegant? I understand why he said last year that he had an issue with the Pt diamond at 6 o'clock for a new watch they were working on. |
18 October 2024, 08:03 AM | #426 |
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At 45mm it’s way too big.
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18 October 2024, 08:10 AM | #427 | |
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18 October 2024, 08:15 AM | #428 |
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yeah that's not it imo
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18 October 2024, 08:18 AM | #429 |
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I think the Santos is the better watch. It has history, but it's also a revised look. Cartier has many different designs under its belt as well, so although the Tank, Santos and a few others might be "signature" watches, I don't think you can pin Cartier to any one watch collection or see any danger in them just being the Tank company.
Morever, the Santos has a brilliant bracelet design and quick change system. They are more WR. The price is more on the sane side as well, so if you are a young collector, it seems to make more sense. Anyway, it's almost like a lost opportunity, although I don't think Patek is thinking that. |
18 October 2024, 08:31 AM | #430 |
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This was a chance to release an interchangeable watch line with Patek dna in steel with a date so guys could wear a Patek on leather, rubber and steel bracelet.
But they did this squared off nautilus. Strange move. I wanted to see more calatrava if they wanted more entry points. The hype guys don’t care about anything but owning a nautilus. They will go for this instead. The type of clients this might attract might not be brand loyal as they only want one thing. |
18 October 2024, 08:46 AM | #431 |
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Don't like this at all.
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18 October 2024, 08:53 AM | #432 |
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Starting to notice more details… they seem to have made a brand new box for this line of clocks. It’s not the traditional wooden one anymore. And apparently it was Thierry’s dream to make a square watch.
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18 October 2024, 09:00 AM | #433 |
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A great name for the series would have been Nautilus²
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18 October 2024, 09:10 AM | #434 |
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https://swisswatches-magazine.com/in...us-collection/
Here is a full interview with TS on the new model. Apparently he always wanted to have square watch in the collection. They started 4 years ago. Nautilus, Aquanaut and Cubits will account for 40% of the production. I am quite surprised by this number. |
18 October 2024, 09:15 AM | #435 | |
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I'm surprised too but I guess that the success of smart-casual lifestyle (less and less suits, ties...) gives more predominance for such modern watches (vs traditional references). Hence, maybe that keeping them on the lower side of the volume production isn't relevant anymore... |
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18 October 2024, 09:33 AM | #436 |
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I think the movement looks way too small for the size of the case (makes sense being 45mm), reminds me of the AP 15400, 15500, etc with the movement barely filling the case back.
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18 October 2024, 09:40 AM | #437 |
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[QUOTE=
Here is a full interview with TS on the new model. Apparently he always wanted to have square watch in the collection. They started 4 years ago. Nautilus, Aquanaut and Cubits will account for 40% of the production. I am quite surprised by this number.[/QUOTE] Thanks! There's some hope and dread when he says there are "siblings" and "cousins" already in the pipeline |
18 October 2024, 09:52 AM | #438 |
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Surprisingly they didn’t create a square caliber to fulfill his dream
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18 October 2024, 10:38 AM | #439 |
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You merely look after it for the past generation.
Seems like Stern's homage to the 70s child in him.
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18 October 2024, 10:51 AM | #440 | |
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Thankfully, this is all really just a blip. Plus with the current market direction, it gives us all pause, time for re-evaluation, and truly enjoy and appreciate the bubble we had. Looking forward to more market normality, dare i say market sanity?
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18 October 2024, 10:51 AM | #441 |
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Begin your own tradition for the very low price of 40k. That watch should be nicknamed the Brooklyn Beckham, made for nepo babys without any noticeable talent in this world and way too much easy money in their pockets.
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18 October 2024, 11:00 AM | #442 |
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Diagonal is likely across the dial, meaning the width / length is around 32mm. movement diameter is 27mm so it kinda makes sense. The case is likely gonna wear like a 40mm-42mm imo, I feel like Patek is trolling us in making us believe this Cubitus will wear like a Hublot with that 45mm measurement.
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18 October 2024, 11:40 AM | #443 | |
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I suspect the website lists the diagonal measurement because saying “32mm” would make it seem like a women’s watch. I wonder what LTG measurement is (just for curiosity sake, personally I find the cubitus fugly). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro |
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18 October 2024, 12:16 PM | #444 |
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The new box is the best part of this release
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18 October 2024, 12:19 PM | #445 |
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18 October 2024, 12:20 PM | #446 | |
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It just feels redundant to a nautilus. |
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18 October 2024, 12:21 PM | #447 |
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It took a long time for Thierry to decide hey take the Nautilus, exactly as it sits, bracelet clasp case, dial, everything, to the T, and just make it square
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18 October 2024, 12:32 PM | #448 | |
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18 October 2024, 01:03 PM | #449 |
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What a waste of a nice bracelet.. The movement appears lazy -round exhibition case back in a square case. Correct comment that the previous cube shaped watches would have had a special square movement to fit the case under the old man.
I liked the old ones such as Gondolo Pagoda trapeze, the top hats etc as they all had some style and substance. I would take a Cartier or a JLC Reverso over this or a vintage Patek for sure but I have no interest in keeping AD happy to get other pieces. |
18 October 2024, 01:10 PM | #450 | |
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