Evolution of a watch collection…

[DC116710LN]

Wonderful addition! Out of curiosity, does the 5164 wear noticeably larger than the 5711? They look quite similar on your wrist

[subtona]

Originally Posted by DC116710LN

Wonderful addition! Out of curiosity, does the 5164 wear noticeably larger than the 5711? They look quite similar on your wrist

Thank you.
5164 is a bit chunkier, overall fit is about the same, but having a rubber strap always seems to balance the weight better than a bracelet.


AP and Panerai on rubber are great examples of how a larger watch will wear more stable on the wrist. They are two of the best rubber strap options available along with the aquanaut line up though the aquanaut butterfly buckle is a bit thicker than it should be.

The sizing of the aquanaut needs a bit of patience because once you commit to cutting a rib there’s no going back.

[Benzsiam]

Wow, what a great collector!

[Steph-paul]

Nice reading thank you. Interesting journey, it’s an encouraging example of this part of this hobby.
I like that you still have yours 5 digits, and others come and go as you build towards your perfect set.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by Benzsiam

Wow, what a great collector!

Thank you

Originally Posted by Steph-paul

Nice reading thank you. Interesting journey, it’s an encouraging example of this part of this hobby.
I like that you still have yours 5 digits, and others come and go as you build towards your perfect set.

Rolex is the king for a reason
The 5 digits hold their own in any company. Hard to beat a sub or the Explorer II.

[PJitz]

Gus - the only issue with you finding contentment in your collection is the likely lack of exciting future updates in this thread...

Hope you're enjoying the new additions.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by PJitz

Gus - the only issue with you finding contentment in your collection is the likely lack of exciting future updates in this thread...

Hope you're enjoying the new additions.

Thanks much. You know how we are :)

I am still waiting for an incoming, supposedly on a short list but also a very slow moving list. Who knows what ideas it May spark?

[KaVo8]

Originally Posted by subtona

Thanks much. You know how we are :)

I am still waiting for an incoming, supposedly on a short list but also a very slow moving list. Who knows what ideas it May spark?

Is this the 321 EW you are waiting for Gus? I’m curious to know why the Apollo 11 50th anniversary didn’t stick with you? TIA

Great collection you have now. Cheers!


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[subtona]

Originally Posted by KaVo8

Is this the 321 EW you are waiting for Gus? I’m curious to know why the Apollo 11 50th anniversary didn’t stick with you? TIA

Great collection you have now. Cheers!


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321

Smaller case size and Lemania movement are the appeal.

When it comes to the speedy, the traditional dial white on black can’t be beat. Many of the LEs and anniversaries choose different dials to stand out but imho it is very rare that the can equal that simple dial.


As far as it’s future, the lack of 100m WR and manual wind could be obstacles

[ap1]

Awesome. My experience is we never slow down, even after we perceive a finely procured set

[subtona]

Originally Posted by ap1

Awesome. My experience is we never slow down, even after we perceive a finely procured set

So far has been my experience as well.

At this point I feel I have come full circle, coming back to these two special pieces with some relatively minor but significant distinctions.

The date windows didn’t work for me in both of the previous iterations. These two have elegantly resolved those quibbles. Also finding the 5164 case thickness to be just the right touch for this sportier model even though I was initially a fan of the thinner 5167.

But who knows, as all of our collections can likely show, we evolve in this hobby and that wheat makes it so much fun.

[ap1]

Originally Posted by subtona

So far has been my experience as well.

At this point I feel I have come full circle, coming back to these two special pieces with some relatively minor but significant distinctions.

The date windows didn’t work for me in both of the previous iterations. These two have elegantly resolved those quibbles. Also finding the 5164 case thickness to be just the right touch for this sportier model even though I was initially a fan of the thinner 5167.

But who knows, as all of our collections can likely show, we evolve in this hobby and that wheat makes it so much fun.

certainly a wonderful pair of icons. Wish I had them back….


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[KaVo8]

Originally Posted by subtona

321

Smaller case size and Lemania movement are the appeal.

As far as it’s future, the lack of 100m WR and manual wind could be obstacles

Hope you get the call for the 321 soon. I enjoy the manual wind in my watches. It’s a personal connection between man and machine. I find that idea very charming. However, I am with you on the WR limits.
Can’t and won’t go swimming with the Speedy.


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[BLACKHORSE 6]

May I ask your thoughts on the Cartier Tank Cintree? I see that it’s no longer in your collection. Just wondering why you decided to let it go.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by ap1

certainly a wonderful pair of icons. Wish I had them back….


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Unique opportunity presented itself to reacquire these more utilitarian models (if you will?) ... I had to take it :)

Originally Posted by KaVo8

Hope you get the call for the 321 soon. I enjoy the manual wind in my watches. It’s a personal connection between man and machine. I find that idea very charming. However, I am with you on the WR limits.
Can’t and won’t go swimming with the Speedy.


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Looking forward to it and I am being patient but giving omega a no interest loan while waiting is honestly not sitting well with me... I may flip it on spite.

Originally Posted by BLACKHORSE 6

May I ask your thoughts on the Cartier Tank Cintree? I see that it’s no longer in your collection. Just wondering why you decided to let it go.

The cintree is a beautiful watch... unfortunately I felt it was just a bit small for my wrist. If I were able to source a Orem platinum bracelet, i believe it would have worn better for me and I would have likely kept it.

If the fit is right for you, I wouldn’t hesitate

[yesnaya]

Love this entire thread. Love the updates and the pictures. You've really experienced a variety of watches and for the most part maintained it at 4-5 pieces. I'm in a similar mindset of 4-5 pieces being an ideal collection size, but without a doubt my tastes (and budget haha) are much narrower. I'm not a fan of dress watches at all and these days as far as sport watches go, rolex/patek/AP and to a much lesser extent Omega seem to be running the show. Patek and AP are simply out of my league budget-wise, so Rolex and Omega are probably where i'll stay for a while.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by yesnaya

Love this entire thread. Love the updates and the pictures. You've really experienced a variety of watches and for the most part maintained it at 4-5 pieces. I'm in a similar mindset of 4-5 pieces being an ideal collection size, but without a doubt my tastes (and budget haha) are much narrower. I'm not a fan of dress watches at all and these days as far as sport watches go, rolex/patek/AP and to a much lesser extent Omega seem to be running the show. Patek and AP are simply out of my league budget-wise, so Rolex and Omega are probably where i'll stay for a while.

Thank you for the kind words.

What reference’ do you have ?

Rolex is the perfect brand to build your collection around, you can spend more or less but in some ways the value of Rolex is beyond its dollar value.

It is a perfectly and practically designed line of watches at a great value at MSRP. Not too big or too small; not to delegate or overbuilt; not to flashy or too dull; and they have timeless design that makes all the difference.

My submariner and exp II have survived while many others have come and gone. It sounds like your in a good place, we always have to aspire to something however beyond we may often find diminishing returns.

Looking forward to seeing your collection? Put up a pick here

Ps. I have worn sports watches for ~30 years... there is something special about a simple watch on a leather strap, when the right one comes along it is very enjoyable

[ts3]

Awesome thread!

So happy I accidentally ran into it as I don't frequent the main forum much.

[subtona]

Thought the most recent collection would be settled for a long time to come …

But you all know how that goes…:)

Considering flipping two for something a bit more unique.
I can tell you not flipping the sub or exp II (they both remained in the collection the longest)

[nyc2la]

Originally Posted by subtona

Thought the most recent collection would be settled for a long time to come …

But you all know how that goes…:)

Considering flipping two for something a bit more unique.
I can tell you not flipping the sub or exp II (they both remained in the collection the longest)

Can’t wait!

And yeah, we’re never settled…..

[subtona]

…well I have to admit I couldn’t predict the direction of the collection : )

These are the four that I find the most satisfying on an individual basis… put them together as a collection and that collection looks very different than I could have anticipated.

1)grail : nautilus
2)dress /casual : explorer
3)travel : explorer II
4)weekender : Tudor FXD

On the block zenith Daytona 16520 & Patek travel time 5164a
And potentially even the timeless and always a favorite sub 14060m.

[francoamerican]

I went through just another this entire although it took me a moment to figure out what was happening. I don’t like to keep watches I’m not in love with though my journey has been much less interesting and for a shorter time and I don’t want to butt in to your thread.

I do appreciate seeing what went since clearly many of those are someone else current grails.

Thanks for posting all of these and here’s to your updating this for the next 50 years!

[subtona]

Originally Posted by francoamerican

I went through just another this entire although it took me a moment to figure out what was happening. I don’t like to keep watches I’m not in love with though my journey has been much less interesting and for a shorter time and I don’t want to butt in to your thread.

I do appreciate seeing what went since clearly many of those are someone else current grails.

Thanks for posting all of these and here’s to your updating this for the next 50 years!

Thanks for taking time to read.

One of the take aways it’s difficult to really know what watch works until it’s on your wrist for a while. Sometimes a few hours is enough to know other times it has taken several months before I knew it was a keeper or that it had to go.

[harvey]

Gus, can I ask why the 5164 didn’t stay?

[subtona]

Originally Posted by harvey

Gus, can I ask why the 5164 didn’t stay?

Kind of like it, kind of don’t. Still have it (will likely use toward trade) find it a comes in second to Explorer II as a perfect travel watch. (At least for the kind of traveling I have been doing)

Not bonding w the rubber strap and clasp combo & thickness… all contribute to the way it floats and feels disconnected on my wrist.

[harvey]

Originally Posted by subtona

Kind of like it, kind of don’t. Still have it (will likely use toward trade) find it a comes in second to Explorer II as a perfect travel watch. (At least for the kind of traveling I have been doing)

Not bonding w the rubber strap and clasp combo & thickness… all contribute to the way it floats and feels disconnected on my wrist.

Thank you for that. I asked as I was thinking of it as my first Patek (if possible from an AD).

[francoamerican]

Originally Posted by harvey

Thank you for that. I asked as I was thinking of it as my first Patek (if possible from an AD).

It wouldn’t be available unless you had some substantial buying history I would expect? It has a solid 125k market price.


@subtona Are you pretty firmly convinced that you only will ever have sports watches? I think there’s something wonderfully low key about a strap dress watch - especially as the secret is out on aquanautilis and of course everyone knows Rolex.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by francoamerican

It wouldn’t be available unless you had some substantial buying history I would expect? It has a solid 125k market price.


@subtona Are you pretty firmly convinced that you only will ever have sports watches? I think there’s something wonderfully low key about a strap dress watch - especially as the secret is out on aquanautilis and of course everyone knows Rolex.

Not at all committed to just sport watches. I have had a few dress pieces and have 1 or 2 more in mind when I can track them down.

Couple of things are my appreciation for something I can swim with… if it happens to be a dress watch that is water proof it’s a bonus.

Also as a dress watch the daily use can be a bit more limiting.

Here are a couple that fit the bill and there have been a few that for other reasons didn’t last but always looking for replacment.

I do agree that dress watch is essential in a collection and I really enjoy wearing a watch on a leather strap.

[francoamerican]

What are you thinking about tracking down?

Dress watches from the golden era (1940s to 1960s) seem to be primarily about discretion not complications. People looked great with those watches no matter how they were dressed because they were “just their watch” You can’t swim with a fine animal skin strap anyway.

A 1463 wouldn’t be something you would wear every day but it’s arguably made to a higher standard of craft (and it’s dial definitely was) than anything made today and it’s incredibly stealth even in yellow gold.

570g are great as I’m sure you know and are essentially timeless (and available with a hard enamel signature)

For modern dress I think it’s difficult as they are often more flashy than the sports watches. I like your seiko I wish more haute horology Swiss options were like it. The current rose gold louis cartier tank with the jlc movement is amazing even if it’s not a hand finished movement or particularly rare.

[subtona]

Originally Posted by francoamerican

What are you thinking about tracking down?

Dress watches from the golden era (1940s to 1960s) seem to be primarily about discretion not complications. People looked great with those watches no matter how they were dressed because they were “just their watch” You can’t swim with a fine animal skin strap anyway.

A 1463 wouldn’t be something you would wear every day but it’s arguably made ::to a higher standard of craft (and it’s dial definitely was) than anything made today and it’s incredibly stealth even in yellow gold.

570g are great as I’m sure you know and are essentially timeless (and available with a hard enamel signature)

For modern dress I think it’s difficult as they are often more flashy than the sports watches. I like your seiko I wish more haute horology Swiss options were like it. The current rose gold louis cartier tank with the jlc movement is amazing even if it’s not a hand finished movement or particularly rare.

I have long admired the1463s.



Also think the amagnetic 3417 are among the most beautiful watches.

I’m also a huge fan of everything in the cushion case, especially the 3670 & 5950 but their prices and availability are prohibitive.

In the meantime to satisfy my strap desires, my most recent pickup has been on my wrist for the past few weeks and I have a couple of watches up for sale (16520 and 5164A) to fund something a bit more dressy on leather. Stay tuned.