Explorer II - 3185 / 3186 cut-off year

[Randy9999]

Anybody who repeats that "slightly modded movement means nothing" mantra may understand watch movements but doesn't understand the ethos of collecting.

Slight modifications can make a huge difference in every collector's realm -- from coins, to stamps, to printed ephemeral documents, to bakelite radios, to glazed porcelain where the difference can be as small as a firing mark, to mid-century Eames furniture, to baseball cards, etc., etc., etc. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a collectibles category where the smallest physical difference won't sometimes make a world of difference in valuation. That's certainly true with certain Rolex watches as well.

So, whenever you see a comment disparaging collectors in that regard (typical example: "Gosh, you'd have to be a moron to pay a premium for a slightly modded 3185 into a 3186, so I guess the internet is a great place for hype and suckers."), just remember that you're reading someone who is probably a nice, practical, no-nonsense sort of fellow who more than likely eschews risk, keeps a close eye on his wallet, and considers too much deviation from his own logical life schema to be nothing more than shenanigans and tomfoolery. (In other words, you probably wouldn't want to let your kids or dogs run loose in his yard for too many days in a row without risking a call from the Department of Social Services or the dog pound.)

That said, I'm voting with a collector's heart in discussions like these. The smallest physical differences sometimes make the biggest valuation differences.

[Kanger]

Originally Posted by Randy9999

Anybody who repeats that "slightly modded movement means nothing" mantra may understand watch movements but doesn't understand the ethos of collecting.

Slight modifications can make a huge difference in every collector's realm -- from coins, to stamps, to printed ephemeral documents, to bakelite radios, to glazed porcelain where the difference can be as small as a firing mark, to mid-century Eames furniture, to baseball cards, etc., etc., etc. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a collectibles category where the smallest physical difference won't sometimes make a world of difference in valuation. That's certainly true with certain Rolex watches as well.

So, whenever you see a comment disparaging collectors in that regard (typical example: "Gosh, you'd have to be a moron to pay a premium for a slightly modded 3185 into a 3186, so I guess the internet is a great place for hype and suckers."), just remember that you're reading someone who is probably a nice, practical, no-nonsense sort of fellow who more than likely eschews risk, keeps a close eye on his wallet, and considers too much deviation from his own logical life schema to be nothing more than shenanigans and tomfoolery. (In other words, you probably wouldn't want to let your kids or dogs run loose in his yard for too many days in a row without risking a call from the Department of Social Services or the dog pound.)

That said, I'm voting with a collector's heart in discussions like these. The smallest physical differences sometimes make the biggest valuation differences.

This man is a genius!

[JasoninDenver]

The premium for the 3186 was worth it for me when shopping for my Explorer II as I wanted a completely in house movement. Silly, I know. Fortunately logic has no place in watch collecting.

[tom_hanx]

Originally Posted by sheldonsmith

The 16710 was not produced past M, so yes, any 16710 that is an M has the 3186 movement. There are no V series 16710s.

Paracrom Blu is pretty significant as the hairspring is made in house, and the hour hand gear train improvement is something that is noticeable.

-Sheldon

I think the proper model I was referring to was 16570 and not 16710...

[tom_hanx]

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

Fortunately logic has no place in watch collecting.

+1

On this one, we ALL agree

[dannyp]

Originally Posted by directioneng

I would also be interested to know how many parts in a 3186 are not compatible with a 3185 movement as this would tell me just exactly how many modifications were made.

You've actually inadvertently brought up an important point, and one which may sway a buyer in favor of the 3186: Rolex only promises to make parts available for a certain number of years after a model/movement is discontinued. After that, it's possible they will be unable to service the watch. No current Rolex uses the 3185, it's been discontinued, so that clock has started ticking (pun intended). Any parts exclusive to that watch will be discontinued after that time period where Rolex promises to have replacements on hand.

The current Exp. II, the current GMT IIc and presumably the new Exp. II use the 3186. It is still in production and will likely be in production for a while. Therefore, you'll have better access to parts with that watch.

[George Ab]

Originally Posted by tom_hanx

I'm thinking there has to be something better in 3186, otherwise Rolex wouldn't really go through the trouble...

Anyhow, I see it that anything past M is cool? Last question would be, does "random serial" mean it is newer than "V" series? I read this is the new, more confusing, system Rolex introduced in 2010... Am I correct in this assumption?

Thanks

Chris,

Your understand is correct, random numbers follows V. Here is a TRF link that discusses: http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=54362.

This reference link describes the technical differences between the 3185 and 3186. http://www.rolexforums.com/showthrea...highlight=3186

[capote]

Anybody knows why the serials are split between two years with a few years inbetween? For example an F series is according to the table made 2003 and 2006 if I understand it correctly. And the D series is made 2004 and 2007. What I mean is that if you have a watch that is an F, I guess it would be harder to determine which year it was made.

[Randy9999]

Originally Posted by kanger

This man is a genius!

Shucks, Kanger. Now try to tell that to my wife.

[padi56]

Originally Posted by capote

Anybody knows why the serials are split between two years with a few years inbetween? For example an F series is according to the table made 2003 and 2006 if I understand it correctly. And the D series is made 2004 and 2007. What I mean is that if you have a watch that is an F, I guess it would be harder to determine which year it was made.

With all the Rolex watches since the internet code started around 10 years ago all you could ever tell from them. Was just a approximation when a case was stamped sometime between X&Y years.Now the main bit the movement only Rolex knows when that was made. Now said movement that could be weeks, months, or a year or more old, in any particular case or visa versa.

[uncleasy]

I have a Z serial (not even high number but mid range) and NOT engraved rehaut Explorer ll with a 3186 movement. Odd.

[uansari1]

Originally Posted by uncleasy

I have a Z serial (not even high number but mid range) and NOT engraved rehaut Explorer ll with a 3186 movement. Odd.

I know I'm raising this from the dead...but I've come across two polar 16570s. One is a random serial with engraved rehaut with a 3185 and the other is a z serial without engraved rehaut with a 3186. I'm surprised too.

Picking up the Z serial and sending the random one back thanks to a no hassle return policy.

[cenzo86]

I came across an F serial that the dealer called a 2004, but it has an engraved rehaut. Fake or is the serial incorrect?

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[Frakis]

Originally Posted by cenzo86

I came across an F serial that the dealer called a 2004, but it has an engraved rehaut. Fake or is the serial incorrect?

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I have never seen a F-serial with an engraved rehaut. I’m sure the experts will chime in, but I’m inclined to say “fake.”

[Old Expat Beast]

Originally Posted by cenzo86

I came across an F serial that the dealer called a 2004, but it has an engraved rehaut. Fake or is the serial incorrect?

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Start a new thread in the Watchout section please.