Help me a pick a high-end "dressy" watch - Lange? VC? Something else?

[Justindo]

Originally Posted by Nav01L

Not sure that I’d necessarily agree with that, and I say this as a Lange owner, who no longer has a VC. I would say Lange tends to have more “spectacular” finish in terms of what you get to look at. VC is more quietly excellent, more thoroughly made the way things ought to be made (in Genevean watchmaking). So far, I have found none of the big brands that consistently reaches the level of quality Vacheron offers from the very basic movements like the 4400 upwards. Especially something like the 4400 is certainly more refined than what Lange has to offer in that tier.

As for the cases, chances are both would have been made at Efteor, which certainly makes lots of the Lange cases and I believe the ones for the VC triple calendar too.

I don't necessarily disagree with this. Lange's finishing is definitely more spectacular while VC's finishing is hard to beat as well with traditional Swiss high end quality. I own several watches from both brands and tend to prefer Lange from the back and VC from the front and on the wrist. Lange's cases are superb but they are all the same while VC offers some lovely variety.

Originally Posted by Jay (Eire)

L&H Friedrich III or the entry level Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic (hand wound, not the micro rotor everyone loves, but Titanium case which adds something to your line up).

Lang and Heyne make spectacular watches and are definitely more rare. I've thought about getting one more than once. Laurent Ferrier is also great, although I much prefer precious metal or even steel over titanium, especially in a dress watch.

The new Patek 6119 is impressive but it's overpriced, in my opinion, and discounts are hard to come by right now considering it's a new watch.

I'm a huge Reverso fan as well and JLC offers great bang for the buck in steel but most of them are machine finished unless you're looking at the Duometre or above.

[classicalthunder]

My vote would be for an ALS 1815 U/D or a Patek 5196G...both can be made more casual by swapping out the strap to a dark or mid-brown

Also, I recently looked at both the white gold and pink gold 1815 and the pink gold seemed a bit more 'muted' than the white gold option...it certainly doesn't stand out as flashy

[Initial_J]

I'm partial the ALS Lange 1 in white gold. Very slick and unique. Tried one on at the AD a few weeks back and loved it. I also like the 1815 UD, but I think I would get kind of bored with it.

What about a White Gold Daytona on strap (pre-ceramic)? Those are pretty sweet, and you surely will not get bored with it. Not a dress watch, but dressy enough. Can wear it with anything.

[Jpccarguy]

I guess one question is, what is a dress watch? IMHO, it's thin, PM, black or maybe dark brown leather strap, minimally ornate dial, maybe date if not too obtrusive. That rules out most ALS for me. What about a simple VC Patrimony in white? Not too plain at all, at least to me. I also like the PP 6119, and I'm on the list for one. Ultimately, YMMV.

[Eapfep]

Originally Posted by Jpccarguy

I guess one question is, what is a dress watch? IMHO, it's thin, PM, black or maybe dark brown leather strap, minimally ornate dial, maybe date if not too obtrusive. That rules out most ALS for me. What about a simple VC Patrimony in white? Not too plain at all, at least to me. I also like the PP 6119, and I'm on the list for one. Ultimately, YMMV.

Personally, I make the distinction between a dress watch and a "dressy" watch.

The latter would encapsulate larger, thicker, or more complicated watches that would work in a business casual setting but not in a true formal setting.

A couple of watches that fit this category might be an IWC Portuguese 7-Day, VC Traditionelle Chrono, most ALS models with the exception of the Saxonia Ultra-Thin / 3 Hander, etc.. I think you might also be hard-pressed to categorize a complicated PP annual calendar / Chrono as a pure dress watch as well.

[illiguy]

Originally Posted by Jpccarguy

I guess one question is, what is a dress watch? IMHO, it's thin, PM, black or maybe dark brown leather strap, minimally ornate dial, maybe date if not too obtrusive. That rules out most ALS for me. What about a simple VC Patrimony in white? Not too plain at all, at least to me. I also like the PP 6119, and I'm on the list for one. Ultimately, YMMV.

The L1 isn’t thick, it’s just not ultra-thin. I would, without hesitation place it in the dress watch category. It’s just versatile in that it can so easily be dressed up or down - not unlike most timepieces discussed on this thread.


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[jjnd08]

Originally Posted by illiguy

The L1 isn’t thick, it’s just not ultra-thin. I would, without hesitation place it in the dress watch category. It’s just versatile in that it can so easily be dressed up or down - not unlike most timepieces discussed on this thread.


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Agreed. Lange 1 is 9.8mm thick, and the Saxonia Thin is 5.9mm thick; there are definitely some good Lange options that aren't too thick.

I agree that some of their more complex movements can make the cases on the thick side.

[Nathan_]

I tried this on the other week when in the boutique and found it special

https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/...000a-b439.html

[GST15]

Many will disagree - but you might consider the Cartier Santos. Can be dressed up or down depending on the very easy strap change. For $about $7,500, you would also save a lot of money

[cbalster]

An ALS that is as good on the dial as at the view of the movement

[Watchflair]

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[jed11]

Originally Posted by Watchflair

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[Megalobyte]

Patek 6119g (WG)

30k

40mm, 8mm thick. 65 hour PR manual.

[Racecar001]

Of the ones mentioned I’d definitely go with a WG outsize date. The up/down is great and super versatile, but there’s something about the big date window and the great layout of that dial. Maybe look for a moonphase to get that beautiful A Lange moon disc. Although there RG mixture is one of my favorites. Feels very warm

A Lange is hard to beat at sub 30k for a leather banded watch. VC would be a steel case and Patek isn’t close to that price.


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[7sins]

Originally Posted by cbalster

An ALS that is as good on the dial as at the view of the movement

This dial is out of this world haha, incredible! What is the dial called?

[cbalster]

Originally Posted by 7sins

This dial is out of this world haha, incredible! What is the dial called?

It is the Saxonia Thin Copper Blue. 39mm in white gold. The dial is called gold flux. As far as blue dials and white metals goes, this is it for me. Criminally under the radar amidst the hype watch craze over blue dials.

[Jpccarguy]

BUT, the blue ALS is a limited edition. Not available to mere mortals!



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[cotway]

Originally Posted by jed11

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Love your Lange!


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[Krash]

This is my favorite dress watch under $30,000. Actually, it might be my favorite dress watch period.




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[GVAZQUEZ]

Originally Posted by Nathan_

I tried this on the other week when in the boutique and found it special

https://www.vacheron-constantin.com/...000a-b439.html

I have been debating on this watch also its super nice. Photos don't do justice.

[SoylentGreenChi]

Originally Posted by Jpccarguy

BUT, the blue ALS is a limited edition. Not available to mere mortals!



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Agreed, this ALS is rare, and fantastic. The Vacheron boutique in Chicago has a splendid version available preowned last I checked. (Same management as the Chicago ALS boutique, so you’d be getting it from the official channel. Great folks, too!)


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[SoylentGreenChi]

Originally Posted by Krash

This is my favorite dress watch under $30,000. Actually, it might be my favorite dress watch period.




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100% agree with this, and the VC traditionnelles are a bargain on the preowned market. I have the reference you posted, and also really like reference 87172. It’s probably my favorite watch in my collection, TBH.


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[JSolution]

Originally Posted by jed11

Devils advocate here…



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Ohh that is nice.

[enjoythemusic]

Awww man OP, you JUST missed this... sold out in minutes.

[Jpccarguy]

Originally Posted by Watchflair

Beautiful ALS, a bit too busy for a dress watch IMHO. VC Patrimony & Traditionelle are classic. As always, YMMV.

[Justindo]

Originally Posted by Krash

This is my favorite dress watch under $30,000. Actually, it might be my favorite dress watch period.




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I have this watch in pink gold and it's difficult to argue with it as the best dress watch out there, with the exception of a Philippe Dufour Simplicity, which is, essentially, unobtainable. The only improvement I would make to the VC would be if it came in platinum with this dial, as I don't like the dials on the platinum versions.

[Ichiran]

I know this is not one of your choices but I really like the 5227R. Everything on this watch is sweet.

[CFR]

Take a look at Chopard. This is an old LUC 1860 with the spectacularly finished cal 1.96 movement. This particular watch is hard to find, but there are more recent versions.



Also, earlier today I visited European Watch Company (at their brand new location) and was talking with some of the guys there about the amazing old Emil Lange 1815 Moonphase, which you might be able to find for around $30K preowned in rose gold (though I haven't noticed any trading lately) -- platinum will be more though.

[djnick]

Originally Posted by CFR

Take a look at Chopard. This is an old LUC 1860 with the spectacularly finished cal 1.96 movement. This particular watch is hard to find, but there are more recent versions.



Also, earlier today I visited European Watch Company (at their brand new location) and was talking with some of the guys there about the amazing old Emil Lange 1815 Moonphase, which you might be able to find for around $30K preowned in rose gold (though I haven't noticed any trading lately) -- platinum will be more though.

I love that watch especially in blue Metalem dial

[ChetBaker]

I agree with the Chopard suggestion. WG pieces in 40mm can still be had around 10k. Not with the 1.96 (which are generally 37mm anyway) but the equally beautiful (though no Geneva Seal) 3.96 calibre.