Anyone else seeing a new wave / trend of loving non-hype pieces?

[Wee-Willie]

nobody goes there anymore..it's too crowded

yogi b

[KatGirl]

Originally Posted by enjoythemusic

^^^ agreed

Attachment 1406156

Attachment 1406157

I know that would be too large for me, but I’ve always admired that one.
My watch journey started with a Tag.

Kat


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[Oystersteel92]

Originally Posted by ArtNouveau

This thread makes me think of Panerai. It was a brand with history from the 40’s that got resurrected in the late 90’s and through the mid 2000’s rode a hype train to the top of collectability. I’m willing to bet most of the longtimers here at TRF had or still have some PAMs in their boxes.
The Panerai scene in those days was rabid. I had three over the years and the culture around the brand was pretty similar to what we’ve seen here. Their superhype era is over but I suspect the brand is still doing okay with a core group who never left.
My current “side brand” is regular Seiko. I think I’m up to about 8 Prospex, Seiko 5, and others. Super cool manufacturer watches that can all be had for $500 or less.

I only buy what I like, and I never liked Panerai so I can say I've never owned one, but I remember the HYPE for sure. I'm fortunate in that a lot of what I like aren't hyped watches, which is how I was able to pick up a steel and gold Sea-Dweller at the height of the mania just 30 days after telling my AD I wanted one. Pretty much my favorite watch and gets the most wrist time.

This week, I'm wearing and greatly enjoying my 1601 DJ with a gorgeous champagne pie pan and jubilee bracelet. Most people think this is an old man watch, and in fact it's exactly what my 70 year old dentist wears. But I like it.

As for Seiko, they're absolutely my favorite "cheaper" brand. My local Seiko AD just upgraded and devoted about a 3rd of their wall space and Seiko USA provided them beautiful new display cases. They're carrying pretty much everything but Grand Seiko now. Their prices have definitely come up. I only paid $200 for my Monster diver 15 years ago on Amazon.

[GB-man]

[KatGirl]

Originally Posted by Oystersteel92

I only buy what I like, and I never liked Panerai so I can say I've never owned one, but I remember the HYPE for sure. I'm fortunate in that a lot of what I like aren't hyped watches, which is how I was able to pick up a steel and gold Sea-Dweller at the height of the mania just 30 days after telling my AD I wanted one. Pretty much my favorite watch and gets the most wrist time.

This week, I'm wearing and greatly enjoying my 1601 DJ with a gorgeous champagne pie pan and jubilee bracelet. Most people think this is an old man watch, and in fact it's exactly what my 70 year old dentist wears. But I like it.

As for Seiko, they're absolutely my favorite "cheaper" brand. My local Seiko AD just upgraded and devoted about a 3rd of their wall space and Seiko USA provided them beautiful new display cases. They're carrying pretty much everything but Grand Seiko now. Their prices have definitely come up. I only paid $200 for my Monster diver 15 years ago on Amazon.

I’m jealous. Sadly, the only place I get to see new Seikos is Macy’s and Kohl’s. Both carry some. Mostly I watch YouTube videos to find the ones I like. My favorite modern one is a LE green dial diver, celebrating Seiko’s 140th Anniversary, a few years ago. It’s nicknamed a “baby Marinemaster”. Their reinterpretations of their original divers are nice, too.

Kat


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[Malum]

The only Rolex watches I like and own are Sea-Dwellers and Explorers .

[Gaussian]

Originally Posted by Malum

The only Rolex watches I like and own are Sea-Dwellers and Explorers .

I love them both, own a DSSD and have thought about the polar face explorer. As my handle suggests, my Rolex journey began with a Milgauss, green dial and crystal, about 14 years ago.

The Milgauss is still one of my favorites. I just bought a z-blue with the stickers intact through eBay (with some reservations but the seller has a feedback above 4000 mainly selling watches). Hopefully I won’t have a horror story to share. We will see how it goes.


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[mdwsta4]

I’d say 2 of my first 3 watches were hype watches when I got into the hobby in the mid-00’s. Black on black B&R092 and a PAM 112 (pretty sure those were the models). Gigantic for my wrist, but they were popular and oversized was cool back then. Sold them and started to buy pieces that *I* liked for me. Now my modest collection is full of timeless pieces I enjoy, regardless if they’re also considered hype pieces.

Funny enough, I was at a dinner the other week and guys at the table had a platinum Daytona, Richard Mille, VC, really expensive pieces. I was wearing the latest addition to my collection, the Tudor BB54. None of them had heard of the watch, all of them thought it was a 1950’s era Rolex, and this ‘inexpensive’ watch garnered more conversation than any of the other heavy hitters at the table.

Hype is a strange thing

[EEpro]

My no hype instant $20,000 devaluating what-the-heart-wants watch.

[learningtofly]

Originally Posted by KatGirl

I’m jealous. Sadly, the only place I get to see new Seikos is Macy’s and Kohl’s. Both carry some. Mostly I watch YouTube videos to find the ones I like. My favorite modern one is a LE green dial diver, celebrating Seiko’s 140th Anniversary, a few years ago. It’s nicknamed a “baby Marinemaster”. Their reinterpretations of their original divers are nice, too.

Kat


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Suffice to say, this is one of my favourite watches in my collection.



I don’t have as many as you, mind

[windingmybusiness]

When it’s no longer easy to sell watches for a profit, people end up only buying what they actually like.

This is the way.

[KatGirl]

Originally Posted by learningtofly

Suffice to say, this is one of my favourite watches in my collection.



I don’t have as many as you, mind

That’s a really nice watch!

Kat


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[Rollieo]

Stages of watch collecting:

1. Rolex, that’s the watch.

2. Everyone knows Rolex, how much of a watch connoisseur can you be if you only like and know about Rolex. No more Rolex, I like “random brand x”.

3. Rolex is actually amazing. It’s way better than so many brands. Only Rolex.

4. Rolex is amazing, along with other brands.

Lots of new people getting into watches, I think most are in stage 2, I personally was for a few years. If they don’t want to talk any hype watches at all, more the indicator they’re in stage 2. They have an aversion to anything popular.

[illiguy]

Originally Posted by EEpro

My no hype instant $20,000 devaluating what-the-heart-wants watch.

Beautiful corne de vaches!

[ArtNouveau]

Originally Posted by Oystersteel92

I only buy what I like, and I never liked Panerai so I can say I've never owned one, but I remember the HYPE for sure. I'm fortunate in that a lot of what I like aren't hyped watches, which is how I was able to pick up a steel and gold Sea-Dweller at the height of the mania just 30 days after telling my AD I wanted one. Pretty much my favorite watch and gets the most wrist time.

This week, I'm wearing and greatly enjoying my 1601 DJ with a gorgeous champagne pie pan and jubilee bracelet. Most people think this is an old man watch, and in fact it's exactly what my 70 year old dentist wears. But I like it.

As for Seiko, they're absolutely my favorite "cheaper" brand. My local Seiko AD just upgraded and devoted about a 3rd of their wall space and Seiko USA provided them beautiful new display cases. They're carrying pretty much everything but Grand Seiko now. Their prices have definitely come up. I only paid $200 for my Monster diver 15 years ago on Amazon.

I think you live near me, who’s the Seiko dealer around? I’ve only been buying them from a dealer in NYC the last few years.

[Gaussian]

Originally Posted by Rollieo

Stages of watch collecting:

1. Rolex, that’s the watch.

2. Everyone knows Rolex, how much of a watch connoisseur can you be if you only like and know about Rolex. No more Rolex, I like “random brand x”.

3. Rolex is actually amazing. It’s way better than so many brands. Only Rolex.

4. Rolex is amazing, along with other brands.

Lots of new people getting into watches, I think most are in stage 2, I personally was for a few years. If they don’t want to talk any hype watches at all, more the indicator they’re in stage 2. They have an aversion to anything popular.

For me, stage one began when I was quite young; I got to pick out my first watch, a Timex, from the local K-Mart. Even though it was a cheap watch, I was beyond thrilled.

Stage 2: I bought a series of increasingly expensive watches; Seiko, Bulova, Tissot, Maurice Lacroix.

I was in high school by the time I got to see a Rolex. It was in Honolulu during a family vacation and I knew I wanted one but did not have the discretionary money until after college. By then, I wasn’t comfortable spending the money on a new Rolex and regretfully settled on a Tag. As careful as I was with the Tag, the crown broke out from the movement when it was in the closed position during daily wear after just a couple of months. Both the jeweler and LVMH refused to warranty the watch, I paid LVMH to replace the movement and it has sat in a box, unworn and repaired since I got it back. I’ve hated Tag and that watch ever since that experience.

Stage 3: Stepped-up and bought a new Milgauss and have been enamored with the Crown ever since. Added a James Cameron less than two years ago and am now waiting for the arrival of a 2023 Milgauss z-blue that is full-kit with all factory stickers (should have it within a week).

While I consider branching outside of the brand, I haven’t found a watch I’d be as happy with unless I spent $75,000-plus dollar on and it just hasn’t been worth it to me.

I’ve been pestering my AD for a Deepsea Challenge too. The SA I bought the JC from appears optimistic that his rep will be able to source one for me. Not holding my breath though as I know how many big spenders are ahead of me that would probably both be interested in and willing to take one off of their hands given the aftermarket premiums in that watch.

You guys will be the first to know (even ahead of my wife) should I get that call.


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[EEpro]

Originally Posted by illiguy

Beautiful corne de vaches!

Thanks!

[Kevin of Larchmont]

There’s nothing new about being an independent thinker. I actively avoid hype because it muddies desire.

I remember the relentless Panerai hype. There was a lot of Panerai push-back on this forum when I first started lurking. After the hype died down I was able to see Panerai for what it was, a quirky and peculiar watch with a quirky and peculiar narrative that is ultimately endearing when worn.

Hype ruins everything.

[Oystersteel92]

Originally Posted by KatGirl

I’m jealous. Sadly, the only place I get to see new Seikos is Macy’s and Kohl’s. Both carry some. Mostly I watch YouTube videos to find the ones I like. My favorite modern one is a LE green dial diver, celebrating Seiko’s 140th Anniversary, a few years ago. It’s nicknamed a “baby Marinemaster”. Their reinterpretations of their original divers are nice, too.

Kat


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I'm very fortunate to have an independent Seiko dealer. I was actually shocked at how nice the new displays looked. They went from two small cases of Seiko to three large cases and entire wall floor to ceiling. Had the new Prospect GMT Automatic with the 3-day movement. SPB381 is the model and I liked it quite a bit. $1,500 is too rich for an impulse purchase at the moment, though the owner did offer me a 20% discount.

[njlam]

For most of my professional career, I owned and wore dress watches. My first was a Cartier Tank Louis. When I got engaged my future (and current) wife bought me a Patek Calatrava, and when I reached a career milestone I bought myself a Rolex Day Date 36 (the DD40s didn't exist at that time).

In those early years, when you wanted a watch, you went to the store and looked at a few, then bought the one you wanted. When my wife and I became emptynesters, I had the time and resources to look at watches more seriously. Unfortunately, this coincided with the COVID years and Rolex watches were and continue to be in short supply.

I decided that based on what I already had, I wanted at least a sports model, and maybe some less formal dress watches. When I went to the Rolex ADs to pick up some watches, I was rudely awakened. While I find myself on a few AD lists for a GMT Batman and a Platinum DD40, I am not holding my breath. The lack of enthusiasm Rolex has to sell me a watch is their problem not mine. I love watches and while Rolexes are nice, they are not by any means the best or only watches worth owning.

Here is my odyssey over the last two years and the watches I have collected.

Recently becoming emptynesters, my wife and I are travelling a lot, so a GMT seemed to be a practical watch to have. As all of my watches to date were from an early era, they were all on the smaller side (30mm, 33mm, and 36MM). I noticed that Panerai had become a popular brand and had a unique history. While most of their coolest watches were 47MM, I found that they were too large for my 7" wrists. The 233 GMT was only 44mm and had many of the greatest hits of Parnerai qualities (power reserve, sapphire bubble crystal, manual wind, sandwich dial, etc). I bought the Panerai preowned as the brand had discontinued the 233 a few years before. The 233 will probably be the largest watch I ever own, but I love it when a large watch is called for.

When one considers Rolex watches, it is hard to miss how much hype the Daytona receives. While I have little use for the chrono function other than to time boiling spaghetti, some of them do look cool, although the idea of screwed in pushers seems impractical. However, when one does research on chronographs of historical significance, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is noteworthy. The history, the evolution, the reliability and the availability make this a must have in any collection of watches. I bought the 3861 Sapphire Sandwich (42mm) new from a non-Rolex AD and lust after the 321 Ed White version (39mm) which has a movement that is modeled after the actual one that went to the Moon. Owning the Moonwatch makes owning a Daytona practically unnecessary.

All this being said, any/all Daytona historians will know that for a while Rolex used a Zenith El Primero movement to power the Daytona (before they started to make their own movements). I saw a youtube video about a 20 year old Zenith Chronograph model that had the El Primero movement, and came with three calendars (day/date/month) as well as a moon phase complication, which could regularly be found on the preowned market for between $4K-$7K. Finding one with an English calendar and OEM deployant buckle wasn’t easy, but much easier than buying a new Rolex from an AD. With two Chronographs in my collection, adding another one is less of a priority.

Researching nice watches, it is easy to come to the conclusion that the watches in any manufacturer's current line may not be the ones that speak to you the most. In my case, I had seen a Rolex Datejust 15-20 years ago that came with an OEM leather strap, in WG or YG with matching deployant buckles. Years ago, I had seen the WG version with a pink dial (with indices) that I had never forgotten, and when I saw one on the preowned market in great condition, I bought it. To me, this is one of my coolest looking watches, and one I couldn't buy new from Rolex even if I wanted to.

Looking to add a level of uniqueness to my collection, I combined my interest in GMTs with elements of sports watch, all while looking dressy. The Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Duo which keeps time in two time zones while showing off the mechanical elegance of having two faces fits this description and is a fine timepiece. While the Reverso was designed to protect the watch face from damage for those playing polo, mine works as just a clumsy GMT.

At this point in the story, I should say that all Rolex AD/Sas are not bad. On a recent trip to NYC, I stopped into a branch of the world’s largest AD and struck up a conversation with a very knowledgeable SA with whom I had an hour of a total watch nerd-out. While he told me all of the Rolexes I was looking for would be hard to get, he would keep me informed. However, the most interesting watch he showed me was the watch he was wearing. It was a Baltic. A French microbrand, which only sold its watches on line and only offers one watch (in its line of 5-10 watches) that cost over $1K. I checked it out when I got home and immediately bought their Aquascaphe model in blue and love its vintage vibe. I like this watch so much I bought 3 more to give by sons (who are all in their 20s) in the hope they may gain an appreciation for cool mechanical time pieces. Because I am not afraid of damaging it, the Baltic is getting a hell of a lot of wrist time and everyone asks me about it. While it is not at the level of a Rolex, it is a watch worth wearing (and very available). I am grateful to that NYC SA for turning me onto the brand and would like to buy something from him someday that benefits us both.

Along the way, it has been fun go on hunts for the MoonSwatch when I have been in cities that have Swatch boutiques. Visiting NYC/LV/SF/Rome/Edinburgh I was about to buy the Missions to the Moon/Mercury/Neptune/Jupiter.

So for those keeping count, over the last two years while I have been waiting for the call from the Rolex AD for either of two watches I want, I have bought 7 new or preowned watches (counting the multiple MoonSwarches and Baltics as one each). While no AD called me for any of the watches I want, I was offered two DD40s, one in YG and one in WG and politely passed.

While I hope that my luck with Rolex changes, for the new year, I have three non-Rolex watches in mind if the Batman and Playdate 40 continue to be unavailable to me at MSRP. I have become fascinated/enamored with the Grand Seiko Spring Drive technology and have my eye on two models that are timeless representation of the brand, there is a discontinued Cartier Tank Americaine I hope to find, and on these pages of the rolexforums.com I have learned about a Swiss independent (Laine) who should be getting an order from me soon.

So I guess this is my long winded answer to the “Anyone else seeing a new wave / trend of loving non-hype pieces?” question. While I someday hope to own more Rolexes, my watch collection has become more interesting and sophisticated without waiting for any hype watches.

[alphadweller]

I generally take a long-term view when considering a new piece. I'm drawn to a classic look more than a trendy one.