How many of you are into shoes... (Dress Shoes)?

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

And I have the opposite problem. I don't know which is worse. So many shoes are lasted for feet like yours rather than my scrawny feet.

Do you live in a climate with harsh winter weather?

I know the country calf can take a bit more rough conditions than some of my finer calf options. I might consider a pair of the Galways in the Utah Delapre if I can ever reach Dan status.

I live in Southern California. It's nothing but heat waves here.

Seriously though, we had a pretty wet winter last year. That partly inspired these boots. I also do some traveling so I wanted some boots that I can wear through rain, snow, etc... no matter where I am.

[Wesley Crusher]

I was planning on wearing my Galways for a couple of hours each night in order to break them in, but I was too existed to wear them this morning and decided to wear them to work.

I had them on for nearly 13 hours today and I feel like there was almost zero break in. They were just so comfortable from the very start.

And by the way, my understanding is that EG no longer makes lasted shoe trees, but the trees that came with my boots fit them damn near perfectly. If these are not lasted, I am super impressed with how well they fit!

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

And I have the opposite problem. I don't know which is worse. So many shoes are lasted for feet like yours rather than my scrawny feet.

Do you live in a climate with harsh winter weather?

I know the country calf can take a bit more rough conditions than some of my finer calf options. I might consider a pair of the Galways in the Utah Delapre if I can ever reach Dan status.

Time for an MTO with a storm welt and Vibram sole.

[JasoninDenver]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

Time for an MTO with a storm welt and Vibram sole.

Yes Indeedy!!!

You in???

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

I was planning on wearing my Galways for a couple of hours each night in order to break them in, but I was too existed to wear them this morning and decided to wear them to work.

I had them on for nearly 13 hours today and I feel like there was almost zero break in. They were just so comfortable from the very start.

And by the way, my understanding is that EG no longer makes lasted shoe trees, but the trees that came with my boots fit them damn near perfectly. If these are not lasted, I am super impressed with how well they fit!

My Zugs were some of the easiest boots or shoes to break in. Then again I didn't have much of a problem breaking in any of my shoes or boots from Edward Green or Gaziano and Girling..

Far less shoemakers make Lasted Shoe Trees any longer. There still are thos that do but the prime reason is logistics, It can be rather difficult to anticipate demand when using Lasted Trees.

In Edward Greens case the last I heard they still have a couple different shoe trees because of the variance in some of their Lasts are different enough to require a different shaped tree. One set for example works for the 82 and the 888. But at one time they had separate trees for the 888 and the 82. In fact I have a pair specifically for the 888. The real difference between this last is in the toe anyway, so that's why these two work so well using the same tree.

Now in Gaziano in Girlings case when they went to non Lasted trees it was fairly easy because across the board with the exception of their Deco Last which still uses Lasted Trees their other Lasts sre the same except for the toe. They may however have a different shoe tree for their loafer Last as well.

So although these shoemakers no longer use Lasted Trees they are still somewhat or semi Lasted because the trees are still based on their Last. They most certainly are not generic sized trees. Personally I would never use a generic Shoe Tree in any of my shoes from a Edward Green or any other Top Tier Shoemaker. In fact because of the unique shape of Last from Gaziano and Girling I most definitely would not in any of those shoes. I certainly wouldn't want to risk stretching the last in way that would alter the look of the shoe.

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by JasoninDenver

Yes Indeedy!!!

You in???

We're too late for this winter, they won't be done until spring. The time to order winter boots is early April.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

We're too late for this winter, they won't be done until spring. The time to order winter boots is early April.

Off Season ordering is the only way to go when it comes to MTO,


Hurry guys it's getting late to order your spring shoes.

Not a bad time to order winter boots if it's for next winter that is, in fact given I have had to wait as much as a year for some of my shoes or boots a year is a good lead time as if you tend to go the MTO route your bound to run into this kind of wait on more than one occasion as the periodic mistake will tend to occur.

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by dddrees

My Zugs were some of the easiest boots or shoes to break in. Then again I didn't have much of a problem breaking in any of my shoes or boots from Edward Green or Gaziano and Girling..

Far less shoemakers make Lasted Shoe Trees any longer. There still are thos that do but the prime reason is logistics, It can be rather difficult to anticipate demand when using Lasted Trees.

In Edward Greens case the last I heard they still have a couple different shoe trees because of the variance in some of their Lasts are different enough to require a different shaped tree. One set for example works for the 82 and the 888. But at one time they had separate trees for the 888 and the 82. In fact I have a pair specifically for the 888. The real difference between this last is in the toe anyway, so that's why these two work so well using the same tree.

Now in Gaziano in Girlings case when they went to non Lasted trees it was fairly easy because across the board with the exception of their Deco Last which still uses Lasted Trees their other Lasts sre the same except for the toe. They may however have a different shoe tree for their loafer Last as well.

So although these shoemakers no longer use Lasted Trees they are still somewhat or semi Lasted because the trees are still based on their Last. They most certainly are not generic sized trees. Personally I would never use a generic Shoe Tree in any of my shoes from a Edward Green or any other Top Tier Shoemaker. In fact because of the unique shape of Last from Gaziano and Girling I most definitely would not in any of those shoes. I certainly wouldn't want to risk stretching the last in way that would alter the look of the shoe.

That makes sense.

I have a couple different pairs of generic trees. Some fit better than others. I should probably toss the ones that don't fit too well and replace them with better ones (for my Aldens since lasted or semi-lasted is not an option).

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

That makes sense.

I have a couple different pairs of generic trees. Some fit better than others. I should probably toss the ones that don't fit too well and replace them with better ones (for my Aldens since lasted or semi-lasted is not an option).

Some people aren't willing to pay nearly $200.00 for shoe trees and don't feel as strongly about it. However when it comes to spending over $1000.00 for a pair of shoes I just figure $200.00 for a pair of shoe trees is just part of the deal.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

That makes sense.

I have a couple different pairs of generic trees. Some fit better than others. I should probably toss the ones that don't fit too well and replace them with better ones (for my Aldens since lasted or semi-lasted is not an option).

By the way Alden's and Edward Greens 64 Lasts are hardly the best examples of Lasts that generally do best with Lasted or Semi Lasted Trees. That's just because these Lasts tend to be rather bulbous in nature. However even with something from I would do my best to make sure the tree wasn't something that stretched it in a way it wasn't meant too. Frankly however most of my Generic trees won't do that. However the worst Generic trees tend to be the ones with the less than wide or pointed heel. I don't use these on any of my shoes or boots.

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Some people aren't willing to pay nearly $200.00 for shoe trees and don't feel as strongly about it. However when it comes to spending over $1000.00 for a pair of shoes I just figure $200.00 for a pair of shoe trees is just part of the deal.

I'll admit, I think $200 for trees is a pretty steep, but I agree with you. Once you're in the $1000+ range, by not buying proper trees, you're just doing a disservice to yourself.

Originally Posted by dddrees

By the way Alden's and Edward Greens 64 Lasts are hardly the best examples of Lasts that generally do best with Lasted or Semi Lasted Trees. That's just because these Lasts tend to be rather bulbous in nature. However even with something from I would do my best to make sure the tree wasn't something that stretched it in a way it wasn't meant too. Frankly however most of my Generic trees won't do that. However the worst Generic trees tend to be the ones with the less than wide or pointed heel. I don't use these on any of my shoes or boots.

You're probably right. Lasted trees will make the biggest difference when paired with very sleek shoes, but even with my Galway's being on the bulbous side, compared to generic, ill-fitting trees, I see a 100% difference with the semi-lasted trees.

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

I'll admit, I think $200 for trees is a pretty steep, but I agree with you. Once you're in the $1000+ range, by not buying proper trees, you're just doing a disservice to yourself.



You're probably right. Lasted trees will make the biggest difference when paired with very sleek shoes, but even with my Galway's being on the bulbous side, compared to generic, ill-fitting trees, I see a 100% difference with the semi-lasted trees.

FWIW, John Lobb's trees aren't lasted. They fit well, but not precisely. Whereas, G&G uses lasted trees and you can see that they fit the shape perfectly.

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

FWIW, John Lobb's trees aren't lasted. They fit well, but not precisely. Whereas, G&G uses lasted trees and you can see that they fit the shape perfectly.

I like the Thorpe boots a lot. Something to think about for the future...

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

FWIW, John Lobb's trees aren't lasted. They fit well, but not precisely. Whereas, G&G uses lasted trees and you can see that they fit the shape perfectly.

G&G actually doesn't use Lasted trees, that is except for their DECO Last. That being their upper end shoe. They stopped that practice a few years back just as Edward Green had done. However they do fit extremely well. The thing is the only difference between the majority of their various Lasts is the shape of their toe and that is how they can get away with using the same tree for their various Lasts.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

I like the Thorpe boots a lot. Something to think about for the future...

I actually have two pairs of these one of which is in Oak Kudu and the other in Arran Country Grain. If you can get a pair in Kudu I highly suggest doing so. Of course that makes them an even more causal type boot. The Split Toe is just frigging fabulous.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

I'll admit, I think $200 for trees is a pretty steep, but I agree with you. Once you're in the $1000+ range, by not buying proper trees, you're just doing a disservice to yourself.



You're probably right. Lasted trees will make the biggest difference when paired with very sleek shoes, but even with my Galway's being on the bulbous side, compared to generic, ill-fitting trees, I see a 100% difference with the semi-lasted trees.

Yep, yep...

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

I like the Thorpe boots a lot. Something to think about for the future...

In my opinion the MH71 is the best looking Last when it comes to Thorpes. Split Toes Rule!!!

You really should get some Dovers and Ishams as well. Great Smart casual shoes. Country grain, Doak, or Kudu are my favorites.

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by dddrees

In my opinion the MH71 is the best looking Last when it comes to Thorpes. Split Toes Rule!!!

You really should get some Dovers and Ishams as well. Great Smart casual shoes. Country grain, Doak, or Kudu are my favorites.

From the pictures that I have seen, the MH71 last is beautiful, but I wonder how well it will fit my feet.

Here is an interesting pair of Thorpes

http://www.keikari.com/english/made-...azianogirling/

I think the Ridgeway soles, storm welt and contrast stitching do not work at all for these boots, but the rounded last looks pretty nice to me.

I really want a pair of split toe shoes. One pair that I've had my eye on is from the French company that I mentioned before (JM Weston).

Weston offers two split toe shoes. The Chasse and demi-Chasse.



The Chasse (right) is what Weston is really known for. The shoes are built like tanks. Triple leather soles, full bellows tongue, hand welted soles, hand stitches split toe. Actually, I believe the entire shoes are made by hand. They are only available via MTO (to my knowledge) and are $2000+.

The demi-Chasse (left) is a bit less heavy duty. There is a lot of machine work, but they're less than half the price.

I like the EG Dovers and G&G Ishams quite a bit. The pictures that I have seen of Ishams in kudu are just incredible!

choices choices....

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

From the pictures that I have seen, the MH71 last is beautiful, but I wonder how well it will fit my feet.

Here is an interesting pair of Thorpes

http://www.keikari.com/english/made-...azianogirling/

I think the Ridgeway soles, storm welt and contrast stitching do not work at all for these boots, but the rounded last looks pretty nice to me.

I really want a pair of split toe shoes. One pair that I've had my eye on is from the French company that I mentioned before (JM Weston).

Weston offers two split toe shoes. The Chasse and demi-Chasse.

Those Thorpes are in the GG06 Last which is much more round but frankly I prefer the more square MH71 Last, At least for me it's a snug but well fitting Last, Both pairs I have are on the Dainite sole and frankly I don't see these boots working as well on the Ridgeway sole. I just picture them being more smart casual rather than rugged type boots.

The thing I really like about Edward Green and Gaziano and Girling split toes is that the apron on their shoes and boots are hand sewn. Edward Green does it using a pigs bristle and I think G&G may do it the same way. It really gives their shoes a boots a bit of character.



The Chasse (right) is what Weston is really known for. The shoes are built like tanks. Triple leather soles, full bellows tongue, hand welted soles, hand stitches split toe. Actually, I believe the entire shoes are made by hand. They are only available via MTO (to my knowledge) and are $2000+.

The demi-Chasse (left) is a bit less heavy duty. There is a lot of machine work, but they're less than half the price.

I like the EG Dovers and G&G Ishams quite a bit. The pictures that I have seen of Ishams in kudu are just incredible!

choices choices....

[QUOTE=Wesley Crusher;7905116]From the pictures that I have seen, the MH71 last is beautiful, but I wonder how well it will fit my feet.

Here is an interesting pair of Thorpes

http://www.keikari.com/english/made-...azianogirling/

I think the Ridgeway soles, storm welt and contrast stitching do not work at all for these boots, but the rounded last looks pretty nice to me.

I really want a pair of split toe shoes. One pair that I've had my eye on is from the French company that I mentioned before (JM Weston).

Weston offers two split toe shoes. The Chasse and demi-Chasse.

Those Thorpes are in the GG06 Last which is much more round but frankly I prefer the more square MH71 Last, At least for me it's a snug but well fitting Last, Both pairs I have are on the Dainite sole and frankly I don't see these boots working as well on the Ridgeway sole. I just picture them being more smart casual rather than rugged type boots.

The thing I really like about Edward Green and Gaziano and Girling split toes is that the apron on their shoes and boots are hand sewn. Edward Green does it using a pigs bristle and I think G&G may do it the same way. It really gives their shoes a boots a bit of character.

I own a pair of Dovers in Mahogany CC and a pair of Ishams in Rosewood Kudu.

[Abdullah71601]

Originally Posted by dddrees

In my opinion the MH71 is the best looking Last when it comes to Thorpes. Split Toes Rule!!!

You really should get some Dovers and Ishams as well. Great Smart casual shoes. Country grain, Doak, or Kudu are my favorites.

Good to know. The MH71 is the best fitting shoe I've ever worn, and I do mean ever. I doubt a bespoke last would fit any better.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Abdullah71601

Good to know. The MH71 is the best fitting shoe I've ever worn, and I do mean ever. I doubt a bespoke last would fit any better.

Same for me as well when it comes to how the AMH71 Last fits so well. The Deco Last is supposedly more narrow, hence that Last would probably never work for me.

Frankly because I have such luck with so many great Lasts in the upper tier of shoemaking for me a Bespoke shoe would serve no purpose other than the fact it is Bespoke. For the cost that's more than I am willing to pay just to get a Bespoke shoe. Besides the cost of the Last itself their would be other cost you might have to pay such as travel cost potentially to be refitted for the Last at various stages and of course the cost premium for the shoe itself.

Besides I'm more than satisfied with the designs available for what is considered off the shelf or Made To Order.

[Wesley Crusher]

Here is a very nice makeup by a store here in Southern California:

https://gentlemensfootwear.com/colle...t-country-calf

I really like the look of the 202 last.

I think a gold delapre/burgundy utah on the 202 with Dainite would be a killer makeup.

[Wesley Crusher]

Isham on the GG06. I love the shape!

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/n...it-toe.528922/

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

Isham on the GG06. I love the shape!

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/n...it-toe.528922/

Yep, great color and they would work well with a Dainite Sole. Frankly you can't go wrong doing the same with a Dover and then opt for calf on the Islam. The Dover is more truer country shoe on the 606 Last. However I have heard the 606 can be more problematic for some, my Dovers are actually on the 202 and I'm very satisfied. The Islam do to it's sleeker Last tend to look more refined.i still like the MH71 Last it just looks so nice and fits my feet perfectly.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

Here is a very nice makeup by a store here in Southern California:

https://gentlemensfootwear.com/colle...t-country-calf

I really like the look of the 202 last.

I think a gold delapre/burgundy utah on the 202 with Dainite would be a killer makeup.

Nice, but I still prefer the Walnut\Doak and the 82 Last.

[BristolCavendish]

Scratching head. Does this kind of stuff count as well? +

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by dddrees

Yep, great color and they would work well with a Dainite Sole. Frankly you can't go wrong doing the same with a Dover and then opt for calf on the Islam. The Dover is more truer country shoe on the 606 Last. However I have heard the 606 can be more problematic for some, my Dovers are actually on the 202 and I'm very satisfied. The Islam do to it's sleeker Last tend to look more refined.i still like the MH71 Last it just looks so nice and fits my feet perfectly.

Based on the pictures that I have seen, my preference would be the 202 over the 606 for the Dovers. A pair of Dovers and Ishams, each in a different leather, would be great, but I wonder if that would be too redundant for me.

Originally Posted by dddrees

Nice, but I still prefer the Walnut\Doak and the 82 Last.

That is a classic combination.

[Wesley Crusher]

Originally Posted by BristolCavendish

Scratching head. Does this kind of stuff count as well? +

BC, is this your way of telling us that you live an alternative lifestyle?

[BristolCavendish]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

BC, is this your way of telling us that you live an alternative lifestyle?

According to some 'outsiders', a well-dressed man only wears strappy F-me stilettos with his Brooks Brothers or Armani suit.

[dddrees]

Originally Posted by Wesley Crusher

Based on the pictures that I have seen, my preference would be the 202 over the 606 for the Dovers. A pair of Dovers and Ishams, each in a different leather, would be great, but I wonder if that would be too redundant for me.




That is a classic combination.

Hard to say, but generally it comes down to what you generally find yourself wearing and what you actual preferences are, I know some who have Sapir of dovers I almost every possible configuration. Then there are some who do the same with Galways or Chelseas.

I've most certainly done that with a few, but I also try to have some balance so I don't find myself only having one style which is nice and not being able to dress down and still do it with style,