2015 BLNR or 2018 BLNR?

[ElRicardo]

Looking for any advice on buying a new, unworn full set BLNR. I know the current market price is crazy, but I've decided I've earned one.

Both options available in London. Have not visited either seller but both are apparently reputable or so the internet would have me believe, but they are grey market dealers.
Very little difference in the price. 2015 is slightly more expensive than the 2018 which is being sold by a well known chain.

Is it normal for a 3 year old unworn model to have the same price as a fresh unworn model?
Alternatively, c anyone recommend a UK seller/dealer, preferably located in London?

Thanks

[Easy E]

If the 2015 is more than the 18, I’m not sure what the question is. Buy the 18.

[dwjez14]

Buy the newer one ! Post photos when you get it

[Nikrnic]

No reason for a '15 to be more.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[ElRicardo]

Originally Posted by Nikrnic

No reason for a '15 to be more.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Thanks

[mistercoach32]

If you’re content with purchasing at the current prices then I’d go for the ‘18 without question. If you want to negotiate, I’d use the ‘18 as leverage on the ‘15 price and get that down to a much better price that works for you. Just my .02.

[JacksonStone]

Keep in mind the warranty situation, as well. If both have valid factory warranties, then at a minimum, the '18 will have three years more time left on it. Also, July 2015 was when Rolex switched from a two-year to a five-year warranty. Watches that still had active two-year warranties at the time of the switch were given an extra year of warranty coverage, but only watches sold after July had the full five-year warranty. So, if the 2015's warranty was activated prior to July of that year, it would be completely expired by now. All the more reason why the 2018 is likely the better option.

[kauffee]

Originally Posted by JacksonStone

Keep in mind the warranty situation, as well. If both have valid factory warranties, then at a minimum, the '18 will have three years more time left on it. Also, July 2015 was when Rolex switched from a two-year to a five-year warranty. Watches that still had active two-year warranties at the time of the switch were given an extra year of warranty coverage, but only watches sold after July had the full five-year warranty. So, if the 2015's warranty was activated prior to July of that year, it would be completely expired by now. All the more reason why the 2018 is likely the better option.

Exactly. This is the definitive answer.

[Wobbly]

Originally Posted by kauffee

Exactly. This is the definitive answer.

It's not a definitive answer.

If it's a 2018, it will have at least 4 years warranty remaining and possibly more.

[kauffee]

Originally Posted by Wobbly

It's not a definitive answer.



If it's a 2018, it will have at least 4 years warranty remaining and possibly more.

Uh... yeah. That’s what Jack said.

[calh22a]

If theyre both brand new full set unworn, not sure why the 2015 would cost more than the 2018. Unless stickers are still on the 2015 and 2018 has protective plastics removed. I’d go for the 2018.

[brandrea]

2018

[JacksonStone]

Originally Posted by Wobbly

If it's a 2018, it will have at least 4 years warranty remaining and possibly more.

Originally Posted by JacksonStone

If both have valid factory warranties, then at a minimum, the '18 will have three years more time left on it.

I should clarify that I mean, if both watches have active, valid five-year warranties on them, the 2018 watch would have up to three years more time remaining than the 2015 watch, not that the 2018 would have three years remaining time on its own. Of course, any 2018 watch with a valid warranty would have at least four more years remaining from this point forward.

[ace12]

I'm going to go for the 2018 version remember to post pictures when you get it.

[gin47]

It's a no brainer get the 2018, personally I see no reason for 2015.

[mistercoach32]

Originally Posted by mistercoach32

If you’re content with purchasing at the current prices then I’d go for the ‘18 without question. If you want to negotiate, I’d use the ‘18 as leverage on the ‘15 price and get that down to a much better price that works for you. Just my .02.

My earlier input was due to the warranty difference. You should be able to drop the ‘15 price considerably if that’s important by using the ‘18 as leverage. For me, the price drop would need to be considerable for me to forgo the added protection.

[Duey]

It's the SAME watch here guys , nothing has changed at all not even the MSRP. The 2018 could have been sitting there since 2015, there's no real way to know with the new serial number system. The only difference is warranty

[harvey]

Over here I think we had two price increases since 2015.

Go for the newest one.

[Uggi]

Buying grey is no problem but I would stay away from the major London grey chains/stores like Watchfinders. If you know about Rolex watches I would get in touch with some private sellers on Chrono or even on eBay. Do your research on them, meet them, inspect the watches, get them validated if needed. If going grey, you don't want to be paying for a watch plus some rent overhead in the Royal Exchange. Not every individual selling a Rolex online is a crook - that is where you'll get the best prices and maybe even the better service.
Good luck.

[DoDe]

Originally Posted by JacksonStone

Keep in mind the warranty situation, as well. If both have valid factory warranties, then at a minimum, the '18 will have three years more time left on it. Also, July 2015 was when Rolex switched from a two-year to a five-year warranty. Watches that still had active two-year warranties at the time of the switch were given an extra year of warranty coverage, but only watches sold after July had the full five-year warranty. So, if the 2015's warranty was activated prior to July of that year, it would be completely expired by now. All the more reason why the 2018 is likely the better option.

[praveen]

Originally Posted by Uggi

Buying grey is no problem but I would stay away from the major London grey chains/stores like Watchfinders

Could you expand more? I live in the US but thought about visiting Watchfider the next time I'm in the UK. Is it because it's overpriced compared to other dealers or quality issues? On a side note I only know about Watchfinder from YouTube as they put out some HQ videos.

[SearChart]

The 3186 has the weak GMT spring prior to 2016, so I'd always go for the newest since the updated GMT system is more reliable.

[Macnavara]

Originally Posted by praveen

Could you expand more? I live in the US but thought about visiting Watchfider the next time I'm in the UK. Is it because it's overpriced compared to other dealers or quality issues? On a side note I only know about Watchfinder from YouTube as they put out some HQ videos.

Something ive noticed is they often sell overpriced watches with no papers or boxes....how does this happen to new/newish watches....weird

[Macnavara]

Originally Posted by SearChart

The 3186 has the weak GMT spring prior to 2016, so I'd always go for the newest since the updated GMT system is more reliable.

Ive never heard this.....you learn something new every day

[Uggi]

Originally Posted by praveen

Could you expand more? I live in the US but thought about visiting Watchfider the next time I'm in the UK. Is it because it's overpriced compared to other dealers or quality issues? On a side note I only know about Watchfinder from YouTube as they put out some HQ videos.

Eg you can buy a brand new unworn Hulk BNIB with all papers for around £10k from an individual seller now in the UK. Watchfinders have a worn Hulk without full paperwork in "very good" condition showing "some signs of wear" and it's nearly £12k.
By definition you are paying a price which not only covers the watch but also the rent and overhead on their swanky Royal Exchange site plus their staff salaries. None of that will end up on your wrist.

[praveen]

Originally Posted by Macnavara

Something ive noticed is they often sell overpriced watches with no papers or boxes....how does this happen to new/newish watches....weird

Ah that sucks! Weird as well. Affects future resale. Thanks for the note!

[SearChart]

Originally Posted by Macnavara

Ive never heard this.....you learn something new every day

Old spring on the left, new on the right.

This spring sits on the GMT wheel, and presses against a 4 pronged star wheel. When you turn it you can physically feel the spring clicking in that star wheel.

The old one was prone to breaking from frequent use, the new one is much stronger.

[praveen]

Originally Posted by Uggi

Eg you can buy a brand new unworn Hulk BNIB with all papers for around £10k from an individual seller now in the UK. Watchfinders have a worn Hulk without full paperwork in "very good" condition showing "some signs of wear" and it's nearly £12k.

By definition you are paying a price which not only covers the watch but also the rent and overhead on their swanky Royal Exchange site plus their staff salaries. None of that will end up on your wrist.

Yikes! That's quite the premium and without papers. Good to know, thanks!

[rambo99]

Originally Posted by praveen

Could you expand more? I live in the US but thought about visiting Watchfider the next time I'm in the UK. Is it because it's overpriced compared to other dealers or quality issues? On a side note I only know about Watchfinder from YouTube as they put out some HQ videos.

watchfinder is way overpriced.

[ElRicardo]

Originally Posted by JacksonStone

Keep in mind the warranty situation, as well. If both have valid factory warranties, then at a minimum, the '18 will have three years more time left on it. Also, July 2015 was when Rolex switched from a two-year to a five-year warranty. Watches that still had active two-year warranties at the time of the switch were given an extra year of warranty coverage, but only watches sold after July had the full five-year warranty. So, if the 2015's warranty was activated prior to July of that year, it would be completely expired by now. All the more reason why the 2018 is likely the better option.

Great input, thanks