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Old 19 December 2018, 12:52 AM   #1
challer
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Platinum Fluted Bezels

I've heard many times that Rolex will not issue a fluted bezel in platinum because it is too hard and the bezel cannot be machined. This didn't sit right because in my industry, medical devices, we machine very intricate shapes in platinum. I also note that the rest of the case, back, crown, braclet, etc. are machined out of platinum.

In fact, alloyed gold is 20% harder than platinum. Platinum though, is "gummy," meaning it can tear if proper tooling is not used, resulting in surface finish issues. Specifically, one needs diamond tooling and adherence to correct machining speeds. One can machine a near mirror Pt surface and it easily polishes without metal loss (easier than alloyed gold). So the bezel story simply doesn't hold up. I don't know why they won't make a Pt fluted bezel but it is certainly not because it is not readily possible. I can provide citations if anyone actually cares.

On a related note, Pt is 21.5 g/cc while unalloyed gold is 19.3 g/cc. Alloyed gold has an effective density of 15g/cc. This is why Pt Rolex cost so much more than gold - there is 40% more precious metal.
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Old 19 December 2018, 01:04 AM   #2
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Those are all valid points but Rolex has never issued a press release saying why they don't do things. The story might not hold up but it's nothing more than a rumor. We don't know why they don't offer one, although parts yield on a low-production item is certainly possible.

Frankly I'm glad the platinum bezel is smooth. That's one reason why I'd go for platinum over while gold.
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Old 19 December 2018, 01:20 AM   #3
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It is done for distinctive purposes

Also it would probably require additional machinery
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Old 19 December 2018, 01:28 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by challer View Post
I've heard many times that Rolex will not issue a fluted bezel in platinum because it is too hard and the bezel cannot be machined. This didn't sit right because in my industry, medical devices, we machine very intricate shapes in platinum. I also note that the rest of the case, back, crown, braclet, etc. are machined out of platinum.

In fact, alloyed gold is 20% harder than platinum. Platinum though, is "gummy," meaning it can tear if proper tooling is not used, resulting in surface finish issues. Specifically, one needs diamond tooling and adherence to correct machining speeds. One can machine a near mirror Pt surface and it easily polishes without metal loss (easier than alloyed gold). So the bezel story simply doesn't hold up. I don't know why they won't make a Pt fluted bezel but it is certainly not because it is not readily possible. I can provide citations if anyone actually cares.

On a related note, Pt is 21.5 g/cc while unalloyed gold is 19.3 g/cc. Alloyed gold has an effective density of 15g/cc. This is why Pt Rolex cost so much more than gold - there is 40% more precious metal.
I’ve argued the point on the bezel as well....if they can machine a crown in Pt, a fluted bezel seems doable. When in doubt, get both!
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Old 19 December 2018, 01:49 AM   #5
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I'm guessing it is distinctive. And noting that every AD tells the same story. If I had to guess I'd say it clarifies WG vs PT for DD (but not Platona nor WG DJ).
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Old 19 December 2018, 02:47 AM   #6
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If "distinctive," does this imply that the pt. DD is only the penultimate Rolex? There's something out there (or to come) that is (will be) platinum and fluted?
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Old 19 December 2018, 02:53 AM   #7
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The platinum bezel on the yachtmaster has some intricate machining.
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Old 19 December 2018, 02:56 AM   #8
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Probably a pita to do.
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Old 19 December 2018, 03:05 AM   #9
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I will never own any Rolex with a fluted bezel on taste grounds, so thank goodness for the Pt DD 118206!
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Old 19 December 2018, 03:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolexpatek363 View Post
I will never own any Rolex with a fluted bezel on taste grounds, so thank goodness for the Pt DD 118206!
One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)
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Old 19 December 2018, 04:16 AM   #11
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The lack of fluted bezel is why I didn't buy the Pt DD40; the Daytona is much more attractive in my eye. The Pt blue dial isn't enough to bring the watch distinction.
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Old 19 December 2018, 04:23 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyV View Post
One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)
Ha, well there's something for everyone! I have an OP 39, 118206, and three "old-skool" Subs.

Not a fluted bezel in sight, and no yellow gold. My third rule is that Rolex sports models must have drilled lugs.



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Old 19 December 2018, 09:19 AM   #13
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This is beautiful. I love that it will be at home anywhere my OP39 goes, but . . . .!!!!
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Old 19 December 2018, 09:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyV View Post
One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)
Me either

Quote:
Originally Posted by rolexpatek363 View Post
Ha, well there's something for everyone! I have an OP 39, 118206, and three "old-skool" Subs.

Not a fluted bezel in sight, and no yellow gold. My third rule is that Rolex sports models must have drilled lugs.



beauty
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Old 19 December 2018, 09:30 AM   #15
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Thanks guys!
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Old 19 December 2018, 09:36 AM   #16
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You can also ask the same question about diamonds bezels.

Gold = Round diamonds.

Platinum = Baguette diamonds.
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:20 AM   #17
challer
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The lack of fluted bezel is why I didn't buy the Pt DD40; the Daytona is much more attractive in my eye. The Pt blue dial isn't enough to bring the watch distinction.
Same here. My grail is not offered - PT SkyD with fluted bezel. If it comes up I'll be first in line.
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:30 AM   #18
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Honestly I think if they did offer a Plat DD40 with fluted bezel I would buy it. I actually asked a while back about putting on a WG bezel on the plat but I dont think that would fly. LOL

I'm a big fan of the fluted. I also dont believe this is a technical limitation. They should be able to do fluted with platinum no worries
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:39 AM   #19
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Same here. My grail is not offered - PT SkyD with fluted bezel. If it comes up I'll be first in line.
Weigh? 500 gram + ????
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:53 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyV View Post
One thing's for sure, there's no accounting for taste. I'd never buy a Rolex without a fluted bezel.

:)
Thanks for jumping in Mikey! Even if I HATED the smooth bezel (I don't it looks great in some configurations) I respect everyone's choices.

That's what life is all about - freedom of choice and to live and let live.

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Old 19 December 2018, 11:10 AM   #21
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I am sure that they could machine it if they wanted. I'm sure it is due to stylistic rather than mechanical considerations
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Old 19 December 2018, 11:17 AM   #22
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Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?
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Old 19 December 2018, 11:53 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?
I believe it was referred to as “Engine turned” and made in steel. It was not nearly as blingy as the PM fluted bezel.

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Old 19 December 2018, 11:59 AM   #24
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Current website says all fluted bezels are gold.
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Old 19 December 2018, 11:59 AM   #25
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Quote:
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Have they ever done fluted in Steel? Or has it always been reserved for precious metals?
No
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Old 19 December 2018, 11:59 AM   #26
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I believe it was referred to as “Engine turned” and made in steel. It was not nearly as blingy as the PM fluted bezel.

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Old 19 December 2018, 12:03 PM   #27
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Great topic. I have wondered this myself. The lack of a fluted bezel would prevent me from buying the Pl DD.
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Old 19 December 2018, 09:09 PM   #28
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Ym bezel is ss the insert is pt.
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:19 PM   #29
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If Rolex wanted a Platinum fluted bezel they could make it. I think they don't do it to be different than the other PM DD's.
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Old 19 December 2018, 10:38 PM   #30
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If Rolex wanted a Platinum fluted bezel they could make it. I think they don't do it to be different than the other PM DD's.
Agree.
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