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Old 15 November 2019, 09:14 AM   #1
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Icon14 In-Depth The History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut....

Want to share with you guys regarding "In-Depth The History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut...."

There are 2 parts of the story......

A special thanks to Tom Mulraney, editor for MONOCHROME was able to put a great article history regarding the birth of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut...

All credit go to:

MONOCHROME

Tom Mulraney, editor for MONOCHROME, loves spending as much time as possible getting hands-on with high-end mechanical watches. Although passionate about all things horological, he is particularly fascinated by independent watchmakers, often travelling the globe for the chance to spend some time up close and personal with their breathtaking creations.

https://monochrome-watches.com/patek...rt-1-in-depth/

Click above link for the article and pictures.....^^^....




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In-Depth The History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut – Part 1
A 2-part series that tells you all about Patek Philippe's sports watch

It’s taken some time, but the Patek Philippe Aquanaut has become sought after by watch collectors – especially in steel (no surprises there). That will probably sound strange if you’re relatively new to the world of high-end watches and are accustomed to seeing Aquanauts advertised at double retail. After all, based on the way the market is behaving now, it’s hard to imagine these watches weren’t always in red hot demand. The reality is a little different, however. In fact, the story of the Aquanaut by Patek Philippe is an interesting one. That’s why we’ve put together this in-depth, two-part series on the history of the Aquanaut.

In Part 1, we’ll be talking about the origins of this collection, the environment in which it was conceived and launched, and how the design was influenced by the Nautilus. We’ll also take a closer look at some of the key early models. There’s a lot to cover but we hope you’ll stick with us. In true MONOCHROME fashion, we’ve done our best to be as thorough and as accurate as possible. We are only human though, so if we’ve missed something or if you have further information to add to the story, please don’t hesitate to let us know in the comments below.

The Dot-Com Boom

Depending on how old you are, you might remember a little thing called the dot-com boom (later referred to as the dot-com bubble). Wikipedia describes it as “a historic period of excessive speculation mainly in the United States that occurred roughly from 1994 to 2000, a period of massive growth in the use, and adoption of the Internet.” During this frenetic period, new millionaires were being minted just about every other day. On paper at least. Debt was cheap and easy to come by, especially if your “technology” company had .com in its name, and massively over-subscribed IPOs were a regular occurrence. So much so that between 1995 and 2000, the Nasdaq Composite stock market index rose 400%. Such was the promise of easy money that people quit their jobs in droves to become day traders.

Young people in particular, who were quick to embrace the possibilities of this new technology called the internet, suddenly found themselves flush with disposable income. And, they were keen to spend it. Big houses, fast cars, lavish holidays, and of course, luxury watches. Not surprisingly, many brands developed and launched new products during this period. They were designed to appeal to a younger audience that had a decidedly more casual approach to luxury.

Against this backdrop, a new steel luxury sports watch from a prestigious watch manufacturer made its debut. Which, if it was just about any other brand, wouldn’t have been that big a deal. But it wasn’t just any other brand: it was Patek Philippe. And this was the first new luxury steel sports watch collection to issue forth from the Geneva manufacture in two decades. And we all remember what happened the first time.
The Nautilus Junior

Even if you’ve been living under a rock for the last few years you would know that the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 has become one of the most in-demand steel watches on the planet. Our Editor-In-Chief, Frank Geelen, wrote an excellent opinion piece on the topic last year that I recommend reading if you haven’t already. There are a number of reasons for this explosion in popularity, most of which are not grounded in any sense of logic or reason. But this is a world fuelled by emotion and passion, so no real surprises there. The fact remains though that the launch of the Nautilus in 1976 is seen as a key milestone in the long and storied history of Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-
The iconic Nautilus 5711, a watch that actually has a lot to do with the birth of the Aquanaut

Yet, in spite of that, two decades would pass before the company would introduce another luxury steel sports watch collection. For those who know Patek Philippe well, this is not surprising. After all, the company specialises in fine watchmaking. Its enviable reputation is built on complicated mechanical pieces with a traditional aesthetic and cases crafted from precious metals. Yet, even it is not immune to market shifts and consumer trends, although it may appear to ignore them most of the time (hence the reason annual production volumes of the Nautilus remain steady in the face of extraordinary demand).

Still, it’s fair to say that the Nautilus, while a very strong seller for the brand, was no longer the disruptive force it had once been. Edgy and a little rebellious in the 1970s, twenty years on it was now well-established and coveted by seasoned collectors. Nothing wrong with that of course, but Patek needed something fresh to attract this new generation of watch lovers. A watch that embraced the notion of ‘casual luxury’ that was so en vogue at the time, but which still carried the unmistakable hallmarks of a luxury sports watch from the brand.
1st generation, the Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5066A. Note the shape of the bezel, equal to the Nautilus

The solution? The Aquanaut. Heavily inspired by the design of the Nautilus but with some key differences, Patek Philippe made no secret that it had specifically created this watch for a new and younger sporty clientele. And it certainly seemed to play well with that audience. Collectors were harder to convince though. Some praised the modern style and technical execution of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut. But many saw it as a sort of Nautilus Junior, and not just because of its smaller stature. It was a good watch, but not as good as the original: it wasn’t designed by the legendary Gérald Genta; the case construction wasn’t as complex; and it didn’t have an integrated bracelet.
The main concept behind the Patek Philippe Aquanaut, compared to the Nautilus, lies in the rubber strap, in lieu of the integrated steel bracelet

Given that Patek Philippe was trying to reach a new audience with the Aquanaut, it was probably considered a good thing that its existing clients were a bit wary. After all, if you just keep making things to keep your current customers happy, there’s a good chance you’re not going to attract the attention of new ones. That’s probably enough on the background of this collection though. Let’s take a closer look at the inaugural model and the important variations that would follow.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5060 A

This is the reference that started it all, the Patek Philippe Ref. 5060A. At 35.6mm, it was smaller than the current Nautilus at the time – the so-called ‘mid-size’ Ref. 3800/1A, which measured 37.5mm. The similarities between the two designs are immediately obvious though. The most notable one being the port hole-inspired eight-sided bezel initially conceived by legendary watch designer Gérald Genta. Likewise, the satin-brushed case is straight out of the Nautilus playbook but with a more contemporary feel. A solid, screw-down caseback and screw-down crown ensured a water-resistance rating of 120m.
Official Patek Phillipe image of the 1st Generation Aquanaut, the 5060A

The distinctive dial, however, was unique to the Aquanaut collection. Offered exclusively in black on the Ref. 5060A, it featured a central raised guilloché motif. Some have compared its appearance to a block of Swiss chocolate. Modern Arabic numerals in white gold were used for the hour markers. The hour and minute hands, also in white gold, featured a luminous coating for easy reading in low light, as did the minute markers on the peripheral chapter ring. These days we are more than accustomed to this striking aesthetic but back then, its unusual design really stood out.

Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5066A Steel 1st Generation Tritium dial - 7
Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5066A Steel 1st Generation Tritium dial - 6

The other defining feature of the Aquanaut was its rubber strap. A first for Patek Philippe and a rather bold move for the brand at the time. In development for more than a year, it was comprised of more than 20 materials. Impervious to saltwater, UV deterioration and bacteria, it was even tested by the US Food and Drug Administration. Given its suitability for water sports and just general frolicking on the beach, Patek Philippe christened its new strap “Tropical”.

Of course, one of the defining features of the Nautilus was (and still is) its integrated bracelet, which seems to flow seamlessly from the case. This wasn’t possible with the rubber strap on the Aquanaut at the time (although the design has been improved over the years). So instead, the texture on the strap mirrors the pattern on the dial to create a sense of continuity. A subtle design element that still permeates the collection today. Closing the strap was a steel folding clasp, embossed with the brand’s Calatrava cross emblem.

Inside was the self-winding Calibre 330 SC, a manufacture movement with sweep seconds hand and date indicator. Measuring just 3.5mm thick, it was equipped with Patek Philippe’s patented Gyromax balance wheel and oscillated at 21,600 vph. A 21k gold unidirectional rotor was responsible for charging up the spring, which stored enough power for 48 hours of use. Although not visible beneath the solid caseback, the movement was still expertly finished, as attested to by the Geneva Seal (the Patek Philippe Seal wasn’t introduced until 2009).
Limited Edition?

It is commonly stated that the initial Aquanaut was produced in a limited run of 1,000 pieces in both steel (the above described Ref. 5060A) and yellow gold (Ref. 5060J). However, in my research, I could not find any concrete evidence to support this. When I spoke with Patek Philippe, they indicated that there was no official communication concerning limited or special editions at that time. The official press release for the Ref. 5060A does say, however, that “availability of the Aquanaut will be restricted by the limited supply of Patek Philippe’s self-winding movements.” So, it’s possible that production of the initial Ref. 5060A maxed out at around 1,000 pieces, but it wasn’t a limited edition as such.

The Roman numerals over a flat black dial differentiate the 5060J (yellow gold) from the 5060A (steel)

With the Ref. 5060J, things are even less clear. There’s no doubt this watch exists, but it doesn’t appear on the official Aquanaut timeline from Patek, nor is there a separate press release for it. It doesn’t appear it was launched at the same time as the Ref. 5060A though, although I have seen essays from auction houses that suggest it came out later in the same year. Two versions appear to have been made, the more common being the one with the black lacquer dial (no central raised guilloché motif), luminous Roman numeral hour markers and gold leaf-shaped hands.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060J yellow gold roman numerals - 2
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060J yellow gold silver dial - 1

There’s also a version with a silver/white dial but I’ve found even less information on this one. These models were typically worn on a black leather strap, not rubber. Again, there is no official communication from Patek Philippe that these were limited edition models. Production is thought to have ceased in 2002, so presumably, there’s not too many of them floating around.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5064 A-001

Following the success of the Ref. 5060A, Patek Philippe released the Ref. 5064 A-001 the next year. Visually almost identical to the Ref. 5060A, it was offered in a smaller 34mm case powered by the quartz Calibre E 23 SC. There were also some subtle updates to the dial, including the size and position of the date window and hour numerals.
Smaller and powered by quartz, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5064A is probably to be considered a women’s watch

Presumably, this was targeted at female buyers, although again there’s not a great deal of information available about the watch or its launch. The Ref. 4960 A-010 was also launched in the same year, and that was housed in an even smaller 29.5mm steel case. It was also powered by a quartz movement, the Calibre E 19 S C.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5065

The Ref. 5060 may have been the one that started it all, but arguably it’s the Ref. 5065 A that many watch lovers think of when it comes to first-generation Aquanauts. Introduced in 1998, aesthetically it followed the same design cues as the original but with a few key differences.
Jumbo 38mm case, new movement under a sapphire crystal, possible steel bracelet. The 5065 is the first major evolution on the Patek Philippe Aquanaut

For a start, it was offered in a ‘jumbo’ brushed steel case, measuring a more contemporary 38mm. This fit better with the luxury steel sports watch aesthetic and made the gap in size between the Aquanaut and the Nautilus considerably smaller. It also featured a sapphire caseback, so you could see the nicely finished and newly upgraded Calibre 315 SC inside.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065A - 3
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065A - 1

The Ref. 5065/1A-010 variation introduced a stainless steel, highly-polished Aquanaut bracelet. This was a bit at odds with the luxury sports watch aesthetic – it was very shiny, unlike the brushed steel bracelet on the Nautilus. The watch came with a pre-cut rubber strap too though, so you could switch between the two. A year later, Patek introduced a full yellow gold version in the Ref. 5065 /1J-001.
The yellow gold version, the Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5065J

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5066

In many ways, the Ref. 5066 can be thought of as the second generation of the original Ref. 5060. It kept the same 35.6mm case and the same self-winding Calibre 330 SC but introduced a sapphire caseback. It was also made available in a yellow gold case with rubber strap in the Ref. 5066 J-001.
The Patek Phillipe Aquanaut 5066A Steel, a slightly small, non-Jumbo model

If you’ve stuck with me this far, then hopefully you now know a lot more about the early editions of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut than you did when you started reading. And if you know something that I don’t (or failed to include), please add it in the comments below. In Part 2, we’ll take a look at how and why Patek Philippe completely updated the Aquanaut collection in 2007. As well as profile the key models in the current collection.

The mandatory reminder, a timeline of most Aquanaut watches from 1997 to 2017 – published by Patek Philippe for the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut.
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Old 15 November 2019, 09:16 AM   #2
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In-Depth The History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut.... (Part 2)

A special thanks to Tom Mulraney, editor for MONOCHROME was able to put a great article history regarding the birth of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut...

All credit go to:

MONOCHROME

Tom Mulraney, editor for MONOCHROME, loves spending as much time as possible getting hands-on with high-end mechanical watches. Although passionate about all things horological, he is particularly fascinated by independent watchmakers, often travelling the globe for the chance to spend some time up close and personal with their breathtaking creations.

https://monochrome-watches.com/patek...rt-2-in-depth/

Click above link for the article and pictures.....^^^....




----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In-Depth The History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut – Part 2
A 2-part series that tells you all about Patek Philippe's sports watch

Yesterday, we brought you Part 1 of our History of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut. That article paints a picture of the environment in which the Aquanaut was conceived and launched. The heady days of the dot.com boom in the mid-1990s, marked by a decidedly more casual approach to luxury. With its finger to the pulse, Patek Philippe responded to these changing tastes with the introduction of the first Aquanaut, the Ref. 5060A, in 1997. And a star was born. Now, we fast-forward a decade to 2007, where the 10th anniversary of the Aquanaut is marked by a complete update of the collection, setting the direction for all future models.
The 10th Anniversary

A year earlier, in 2006, Patek Philippe had celebrated another major milestone: the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus. This is when all the modern classics – the 5711, the 5712, etc. – were born. Riding the wave of this creative energy, Patek’s designers and engineers then turned their attention to updating the lines of the Aquanaut, in time for the 10th anniversary in 2007. This was no major overhaul, of course. The Aquanaut was already a very successful collection for Patek Philippe and there was no need to mess with the formula too much. Rather it was more of a refinement. Subtle changes here and there to make an already good watch even better.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711-
It remains difficult not to mention the Nautilus when looking at the Aquanaut

As you might expect, the octagonal case, heavily influenced by that of the Genta-designed Nautilus, which itself was inspired by a marine porthole, was largely unchanged. Already considered iconic, there wasn’t really much to be improved upon. Thankfully Patek Philippe had the good sense not to do more than barely soften some of the edges, giving it an ever so slightly rounder appearance. Although, as we will see in a minute, an additional “extra-large” case size was introduced.

Where time and attention were well spent though was on the embossed pattern on the dial. As you would have seen in Part. 1, the geometric pattern on the first generation of Aquanauts was quite pronounced. In fact, the dials look very much like a block of Swiss chocolate. In the go-go 1990s, this sort of bold design was very much in vogue. A decade later, tastes had become a bit more refined, with a preference towards the understated. Accordingly, Patek smoothed out the dial of the Aquanaut somewhat. It uses the same basic pattern, but the embossing is less pronounced and slightly more curved.
The 10th anniversary collection retains the embossed dial, however the pattern is far more discreet and more refined.

The result is a dial that is less distinctive on the wrist but arguably also more versatile. This is the same dial design used on the Aquanaut today and I think it’s fair to say Patek made the right choice with this change. The other thing you will notice is that the Arabic numerals used to denote the hours are a touch larger and the number ‘3’ has been removed altogether. This allowed the date window to be moved towards the centre of the dial ever so slightly, meaning a lume plot could be added in the chapter ring at 3 o’clock. It’s a subtle change perhaps, but one which makes the flow of the dial even better than before.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A steel

The most significant changes pertain to the Tropical rubber strap. Patek redesigned the contours of the strap to match precisely with the curvature of the case. This represented the final evolution of the idea introduced on the very first Aquanaut, where the texture on the strap mirrored the pattern on the dial to create a sense of continuity. This is probably as close you can get to an integrated strap using rubber. The structure was also refined, with flat sides emphasizing the watch’s sportier nature and improved taper for a more contoured fit on the wrist. Even the inside of the strap was redesigned for added comfort. To hold it in place, Patek developed a new double-security fold-over clasp exclusively for the Aquanaut collection.

These changes were presented in two new models, one of which would become decidedly more popular than the other. Several more models would follow over the years, of course. So, let’s take a look at what they are.

Aquanaut Ref. 5167 & Ref. 5165

To celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Aquanaut and update the collection, Patek Philippe introduced two new models; the Ref. 5167 A-001 and the Ref. 5165 A-001. The latter was offered in a 38.8mm case and was effectively a direct replacement for its predecessor, the Ref. 5065A. Its (slightly) larger sibling though was the one that really caused a stir, which is probably why the Ref. 5165 is no longer in the collection.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A steel - 2
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A steel - 3

At a modern 40.8mm (10 – 4 o’clock), the “extra-large” Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A was more closely aligned to the Nautilus in terms of wrist presence. It was still extremely comfortable on the wrist though, and arguably a better interpretation of the luxury sports watch aesthetic. At a mere 8.1mm thick, even with sapphire caseback and 120m water-resistance rating, this was a watch you could wear to the office with a suit and tie, and then leave it on when you headed out to dinner or to go clubbing. In many ways, it was the modern interpretation of the Aquanaut collection needed to stay relevant with changing tastes.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A steel - 5
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A steel - 1

Inside both models was the same Calibre 315 S C found in the Ref. 5065. The following year, this was updated to the Calibre 324 SC with the introduction of the Ref. 5167/1A with integrated steel bracelet. This is the exact same movement found inside the Patek Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A. Self-winding, it incorporates several of Patek Philippe’s innovations. These include the four-spoke Gyromax® balance wheel and its slotted poising weights and the Spiromax® balance- spring in Silinvar® that maintains the oscillations at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Maximum power reserve is 45 hours.

In 2009, a rose gold case version joined the line-up in the form of the Ref. 5167R. It features a chocolate brown embossed dial and gold applied numerals with luminescent coating. As you might expect, the Tropical rubber strap is also in a matching brown.
Ref. 5164 Travel Time

In 2011, Patek Philippe introduced the first complication to the Aquanaut collection. As the name suggests, the Ref. 5164 A-001 Travel Time is designed for travellers. Following the same aesthetic codes as the Ref. 5167, there are some important changes to note.


Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A steel - 4
Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time 5164A steel - 5

Firstly, there are two hour hands on the same axis. The lower one is skeletonized and displays the home time; the upper one is solid and indicates local time. You can adjust the local time hand forward or backwards in one-hour steps using the plus and minus correctors on the left-hand side of the case. To make things even clearer, there are separate day/night indicators for both local and home time. A sub-dial above 6 o’clock shows the local date by hand.

Making all this possible is the Calibre 324 S C FUS. The FUS designation refers to the Travel Time mechanism. It sounds modern, yet its development traces back to a patent granted to Patek Philippe in 1959. This is what allows you to adjust the local hour hand forwards and backwards in 1-hour increments. Not revolutionary by today’s standards, of course. There a number of GMT watches that allow you to adjust the hour hand forwards and backwards. What is impressive though, is the fact that the case is only 2.1mm thicker than the Ref. 5167. And in fact, the movement itself is only 1.6mm thicker. That’s in spite of the fact that the Travel Time complication requires an additional 81 parts. Truly a testament to Patek Philippe’s ability to intelligently integrate components.

By the way, if this all looks familiar it’s because Patek has since used similar layouts on other models, including the Nautilus Travel Time Ref. 5990 1/A and Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Ref. 5524R.

Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G (20th Anniversary)

After the Ref. 5164, things went quiet for a few years. The rose gold Ref. 5164R was added in 2016 but that was about it. There was another major milestone on the horizon for the Aquanaut collection though. And it turned out Patek Philippe had some big plans for the 20th anniversary. The most unexpected being the limited-edition Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5650G Advanced Research

A visually striking, almost futuristic-looking watch, the Ref. 5650G immediately created a buzz at Baselworld 2017 when it was officially unveiled. And for good reason. The department of Advance Research has produced some of Patek Philippe’s most notable innovations: the Spiromax® balance spring made of Silinvar® (2006); the Pulsomax® escapement made of Silinvar® (2008); and the Oscillomax® ensemble (Pulsomax® escapement with GyromaxSi® balance and Spiromax® balance spring) (2011).

This time around was no exception, with the Ref. 5650G incorporating not one but two new innovations from the Geneva manufacture. I won’t go into all the details here, but if you would like to know more, I would suggest checking out our in-depth review of this watch.

Aquanaut Jumbo 5168G

The Ref. 5650G wasn’t the only surprise for the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut. Also unveiled in 2017 was the gorgeous Ref. 5168G “Jumbo”. Marking the first time white gold had been used in the men’s collection, the case measured in at 42.2mm x 8.25mm (hence the Jumbo moniker). And it’s fair to say it was something of an overnight sensation. Of course, its eye-catching navy blue gradient dial paired with applied numerals in white gold may also have had something to do with that.

This was back when the blue dial trend was really starting to take off and so the market was less saturated with them (unlike now). Add to that the fact that up until this point men’s Aquanaut dials had typically only been available in black (or chocolate brown for the rose gold models) and you can understand why this model stood out. Paired with a matching blue rubber strap and white gold deployant clasp, it was powered by the same Calibre 324 S C as the Ref. 5167.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Jumbo 42mm Blue Dial 5168g

Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A

The following year, Patek Philippe showed it still had a few surprises up its sleeve with regards to the Aquanaut collection. Arguably one of the boldest watches to ever issue forth from the brand, the Chronograph Ref. 5968A took everyone by surprise. And not just because of its unconventional colour scheme, although that certainly helped it stick in the mind of collectors.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A

This was the first chronograph in the Aquanaut collection since the model’s creation over 20 years ago. It was also the second serially produced model with a complication (outside of the date). What really makes the Ref. 5968A stand out though is not the bright orange rubber strap and matching orange accents on the dial – although they are hard to miss – but rather the decisive way Patek integrated the chronograph. Rather than trying to go the traditional route, resulting in a larger case and a very busy dial, the Aquanaut Chronograph only features one sub-dial for the 60-minute counter. No running seconds, no 12-hour sub-dial.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968A

Some praised the decision to keep the dial clean and the case size reasonable at 42.2mm x 11.9mm high. Even if it did come at the cost of some functionality. While others lamented the fact that it wasn’t a “true” chronograph. Of course, it’s hard to argue with the integrated, in-house calibre CH 28-520 sitting inside, complete with a column wheel and vertical clutch. A flyback chronograph, it features several of Patek’s innovations, including the Spiromax and Gyromax technologies and is adorned with the Patek Philippe Seal. Whatever your feelings, this is now one of the most sought-after models in the collection and is just about impossible to find through authorized channels.

And don’t worry if you don’t like orange: the Ref. 5968A is delivered with a second black rubber strap for when you want to tone it down.

Aquanaut Jumbo Ref. 5168G Khaki Green

The most recent model to join the Aquanaut line-up earlier this year is the Jumbo Ref. 5168G with khaki green coloured dial and matching strap. Technically, it is identical to the 20th anniversary 5168G with gradient blue dial. Same 42.2mm x 8.25mm white gold case, same Calibre 324 S C inside. So, why did Patek make it? And how did it come up with a colour as random as khaki green? It’s a cool story, and actually not as random as it first seems.


Back in 2011, Patek issued a highly limited “clients-only” Aquanaut Jumbo 5167A-010 in a 40mm stainless steel case with a khaki green dial and strap. Why they chose khaki green for this model I can only speculate, but I imagine it has something to do with the “tropical” theme. In any event, one of these rare watches ended up being offered at auction by Sotheby’s Geneva in 2015, where it hammered for a respectable CHF 52,500 (fun to think what it might sell for now in this current climate of steel hysteria).

Predictably in our social media-driven world, the hype began to build almost immediately. To the point that even the khaki green rubber straps, sold separately by retailers, became hot commodities in their own right. Showing once again that it’s got its finger on the pulse of the market, Patek Philippe created the Aquanaut Jumbo Ref. 5168G Khaki Green and the rest, as they say, is history.

And so concludes our two-part history of the Patek Philippe Aquanaut collection. We hope you have enjoyed reading it, and perhaps even learned something you didn’t know before. As ever, if we have missed anything or if you have any further interesting insights to add, please do so in the comments below. And again, if you missed Part 1, you can find it here.

The mandatory reminder, a timeline of most Aquanaut watches from 1997 to 2017 – published by Patek Philippe for the 20th anniversary of the Aquanaut.
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Old 15 November 2019, 09:26 AM   #3
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Fantastic post of the redoubtable Aquanaut's colorful history. Thanks you much for the obvious effort.
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Old 15 November 2019, 12:23 PM   #4
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Thank you
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Old 15 November 2019, 05:28 PM   #5
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Fabulous, thank you! So nice to see my beloved 5066a getting some love.
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Old 15 November 2019, 06:08 PM   #6
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I'm a simple man. I see a post with Aquanaut in the title and SL Brabus as OP... I know I'll love it :D
Thanks buddy!
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Old 15 November 2019, 08:13 PM   #7
gunhose
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thank you sir 2 fine articles
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Old 17 November 2019, 08:53 AM   #8
comanndr
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extraordinary resource
great info
thanks
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