Vintage x Neo Vintage x Modern Patek

[myk7000]

Hi guys,

I've been mulling over the idea of getting a PP dress watch over the past 6-9 months, but I keep going back and forth on vintage vs neo-vintage vs modern.

For example, at a similar budget I could attain a 3940J from the late 90s (neovintage) or a 2526J from the 50s(vintage), or just go modern with something like a 5170. Understand that all 3 are different complications, but I believe all 3 can be used for more dressy occassions.

For those who've been in the Patek collecting game for a while, do one of these categories end up sticking longer than others? If I intend to keep the watch and use it on the regular, any words of wisdom on how to narrow down the search?

[agsstructures]

I do love neovintage, in my opinion nothing beats a 3940

[jfriedkin]

The 2526 was a grail watch for me. I chase it for about ten years before buying one. The 2526 is really all about the dial, and mine was without blemish. The biggest problem for me was I was afraid to wear it. I was afraid I would clunk it on something and damage the dial. The only place I would wear it was at home. Finally, after a few years, I sold it.

What a great watch!

[dbfagan]

Originally Posted by agsstructures

I do love neovintage, in my opinion nothing beats a 3940

Could not agree more. Robust movement, was my daily for years. You can’t beat a Patek PC

[myk7000]

Originally Posted by jfriedkin

The 2526 was a grail watch for me. I chase it for about ten years before buying one. The 2526 is really all about the dial, and mine was without blemish. The biggest problem for me was I was afraid to wear it. I was afraid I would clunk it on something and damage the dial. The only place I would wear it was at home. Finally, after a few years, I sold it.

What a great watch!

This is precisely the type of behavior I fear I might engage in with a vintage piece... I certainly want to wear my watches out and about as much as possible.

Perhaps neovintage best marries the two worlds to encourage practicality while preserving some level of old style charm...

[bob101]

If you’re looking for a daily complicated dress piece that’s nice and slim look no further than the 3940. It’s very slim due to micro rotor movement and is such a pleasure to wear you won’t want to take it off. For a minimalist calatrava with a lot of style for me would be something with a Wenger case such as the 3433, beautiful pieces.

[John Doyle]

I would suggest a 5235r or 5212 - best modern dress watches Patek makes apart from the grand comps.

[jfriedkin]

I wear a lot of vintage PP. It's the 2526 specifically I was afraid of. If that enamel dial cracks, you really sunk. I have a 2551 and 2552 that I wear often. Same movement but a lacquered dial.

[ts3]

I would go and have gone neovintage in that situation and agree with others above that the 3940 is a great option.

Personally, I like simple stuff and got a little 3998 Calatrava from the late 1990s years ago. Love at first sight after trying on a bunch of modern Pateks none of which had screamed come get me (including 5196, 5227, 5296, and 5167). No regrets and the 3998P remains happily with me nearly a decade later.

[JMac6]

Originally Posted by myk7000

Hi guys,

I've been mulling over the idea of getting a PP dress watch over the past 6-9 months, but I keep going back and forth on vintage vs neo-vintage vs modern.

For example, at a similar budget I could attain a 3940J from the late 90s (neovintage) or a 2526J from the 50s(vintage), or just go modern with something like a 5170. Understand that all 3 are different complications, but I believe all 3 can be used for more dressy occassions.

For those who've been in the Patek collecting game for a while, do one of these categories end up sticking longer than others? If I intend to keep the watch and use it on the regular, any words of wisdom on how to narrow down the search?

I have soured on modern Patek and think that vintage / neovintage is the play. Personally, the 3940J (first series) or 2526J (also first series) are likely my next targets. I don't know, modern Patek just doesn't have the same feel or soul. This is just a feeling, of course, and your mileage may vary. I think the 3940J is about as good of a daily as you can get. Only downside with the 3940 is that a whole lot of 'em were made. Also, the 3940 is a mass-produced reference. It is the precursor to modern Patek, but it has such a strong connection to vintage Patek. I think it is an incredibly important reference. The 2526J, especially if you can procure a bracelet, is unfathomably beautiful and special. But you have to know yourself.

Also, a big thing for me comes down to size. I am increasingly of the opinion that dress watches should be closer to the 34-36 range than the 40+ range, and they should be thin, thin, thin. After years of principally collecting modern watches, I dipped my toes into vintage and am really struggling to connect with my modern watches. Perhaps it is just a new phase, but this is a feeling that is echoed by a lot of collectors.