1680 RED (yes finally a real one)

[betrezra]

My local watch shop has a 1971 3MILL Ser 1680 with a genuine red dial. (Yes I used a loop and it's legit).

He's offering it to me for $5500. I'm thinking hard about it.

One question though for the die-hard guru's in the house..... next to my 1680 (1969 version)..... the date magnifying lense on his watch is not as LARGE as my watch. It's noticably smaller.

Did some years of the acrylic crystal come with varying magnification?..... I'm sure mine is correct.... and his is too low power.

Just curious :)

[montecristo]

Could it be that the acrylic is aftermarket?

found a pic:
http://www.monster-time.com/Watch%20...s/rol5208b.jpg

[mike]

Well,...hard to give much of an answer without a photo,but I'll try and throw some stuff on the wall and maybe something will stick.

I've not noticed a difference in magnification of the 1680 crystal, either orginal or service replacement. Indeed, to me, the date always seems a bit bigger than other cyclops pieces because of the unique 1680 crystal.

Orginal 1680 crystals had a bit of a bevel whereas the replacement is a straightwall. I've read that the newest crystals now may have an ever so slight bevel, but none of mine do.

Replacement on left, orginal on right


As the watch is a 3mil, you're circa 71 to maybe 72ish. If so, the watch should hack, and have SUBMARINER smaller than the depth rating,


If orginal, the bracelet should be a 9315 folded link witheither 280 OR 380 end links. If a replacement, 93150 with 580s.

Look at the winding crown, no dots or external o ring--orginal, assuming geniune parts. Dots, o ring--service replacement.
Date wheel should be silver if orginal, white if it's been replaced. (no big deal)

As to price,--Dial and hands are everything. Browning or darkening around the chapter ring may indicate moisture incursion at some point. Look CLOSELY for flaking of the tritium on the dial and any indication of corrosion on the hands.
There should be no lume (or ever so slightly) if so relume?
Check the lugs for overpolishing, and make sure the bezelrotates smoothly in both directions.
I would enquire as to the service history of the watch if any. Consider a service into the overall price of the watch if none is present. Even if serviced to your satisfaction insure thewatch is pressure tested. Humidity that can enter is the biggest killer of dials, hands, and movements.

If all checks, that's a pretty good price, and welcome to the Red Paint club!!


One quick side by side,

[maverick]

Originally Posted by betrezra

My local watch shop has a 1971 3MILL Ser 1680 with a genuine red dial. (Yes I used a loop and it's legit).

He's offering it to me for $5500. I'm thinking hard about it.

One question though for the die-hard guru's in the house..... next to my 1680 (1969 version)..... the date magnifying lense on his watch is not as LARGE as my watch. It's noticably smaller.

Did some years of the acrylic crystal come with varying magnification?..... I'm sure mine is correct.... and his is too low power.

Just curious :)

If legit I would not hesitate at that price. Mike's fine explaination and pics are excellent and perfect. I would not sell mine for that price. =) maverick

[watchfan1]

Thanks for the clarification. Looks like my crystal is authentic and not a 'service' one.. I did not know that.

Originally Posted by mike

Well,...hard to give much of an answer without a photo,but I'll try and throw some stuff on the wall and maybe something will stick.

[astcell]

If it is authentic GO FOR IT.

[alpet]

Originally Posted by mike

Well,...hard to give much of an answer without a photo,but I'll try and throw some stuff on the wall and maybe something will stick.

I've not noticed a difference in magnification of the 1680 crystal, either original or service replacement. Indeed, to me, the date always seems a bit bigger than other cyclops pieces because of the unique 1680 crystal.

Original 1680 crystals had a bit of a bevel whereas the replacement is a straightwall. I've read that the newest crystals now may have an ever so slight bevel, but none of mine do.

Replacement on left, orginal on right


As the watch is a 3mil, you're circa 71 to maybe 72ish. If so, the watch should hack, and have SUBMARINER smaller than the depth rating,


If orginal, the bracelet should be a 9315 folded link witheither 280 OR 380 end links. If a replacement, 93150 with 580s.

Look at the winding crown, no dots or external o ring--orginal, assuming genuine parts. Dots, o ring--service replacement.
Date wheel should be silver if orginal, white if it's been replaced. (no big deal)

As to price,--Dial and hands are everything. Browning or darkening around the chapter ring may indicate moisture incursion at some point. Look CLOSELY for flaking of the tritium on the dial and any indication of corrosion on the hands.
There should be no lume (or ever so slightly) if so relume?
Check the lugs for overpolishing, and make sure the bezelrotates smoothly in both directions.
I would enquire as to the service history of the watch if any. Consider a service into the overall price of the watch if none is present. Even if serviced to your satisfaction insure thewatch is pressure tested. Humidity that can enter is the biggest killer of dials, hands, and movements.

If all checks, that's a pretty good price, and welcome to the Red Paint club!!


One quick side by side,

Mike,
I noticed that in the zoomed pic of the red fonts, it looks as if the red lettering overlaps white lettering in some places.
Is that the way Rolex did it? I did thought they printed the letters directly in red..but then again I am far from an expert

[astcell]

Why did they do away with the red paint? And when they came out with the new version did everyone rush to it, devaluing the red paint version?

[betrezra]

As always great info Mike!

I also noticed it has closed 6's. If I remember correctly this is right for a 72/73 circa.....

I'm also thinking the lower X cyclopse mag is probably due to polishing scratches out of the acrylic crystal over the years. It had a replacement straight (non-bevelled) crystal.

The 1675 movement made that wonderful LOUD sound which I'm drawn to for some reason. Like a miniature grandfather clock on my wrist ;) Tick Tick Tick TICK....

I'll continue to do some more DD before I take the plunge..... (I've been burned before.... so I'm being very careful)>

[mike]

Originally Posted by alpet

Mike,
I noticed that in the zoomed pic of the red fonts, it looks as if the red lettering overlaps white lettering in some places.
Is that the way Rolex did it? I did thought they printed the letters directly in red..but then again I am far from an expert

Rolex has used dials where the red has been overlayed on a white base, and dials upon which the red was applied directly to the dial.
Mine seems to be directly to thr dial, but both are geniune.
I really don't know why unless it's simply a matter of different dial sources. A common method of faking a red is to overlay a white. Here the font size is a clear giveaway.

[padi56]

Originally Posted by betrezra

As always great info Mike!

I also noticed it has closed 6's. If I remember correctly this is right for a 72/73 circa.....

I'm also thinking the lower X cyclopse mag is probably due to polishing scratches out of the acrylic crystal over the years. It had a replacement straight (non-bevelled) crystal.

The 1675 movement made that wonderful LOUD sound which I'm drawn to for some reason. Like a miniature grandfather clock on my wrist ;) Tick Tick Tick TICK....

I'll continue to do some more DD before I take the plunge..... (I've been burned before.... so I'm being very careful)>

Yes agree could well be, and Mike a great and detailed view.But above movement is cal 1575. And in many opinions and my own, the 15XX movements the finest Rolex has ever made to date.Rolex could by the serial tell you if a 100% genuine Red 1680.

[mike]

Originally Posted by astcell

Why did they do away with the red paint? And when they came out with the new version did everyone rush to it, devaluing the red paint version?

Good question, I really don't know why the red was done away with. I suppose as the color was changed to white and the font size became bigger, Rolex simply wanted the name seen better.

[betrezra]

Thanks padi... meant to say 1575 ;)

Will do about checking with Rolex on the ser # `1st ;)

Thanks for the help trf.