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22 January 2014, 05:01 PM | #1 |
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Size matters!
I know that a lot of people don't "get" Panerai. The company has taken some self-inflicted flak through the odd marketing faux-pas and a sometimes crazy pricing strategy, and I've heard a few people write the brand off on the basis that <em>all</em> of their models are "ugly". Well, I'm no fanboy (hmmm... maybe I am, just a little) but I do think I've been very fortunate to have owned the much vaunted Luminor 233, and to still possess its equally sublime Radiomir cousin, the 268. These watches are wonderful, both in terms of the majesty of the three-barrelled, 8 day in-house movements and the very obvious build quality. What I've learned, though, is that for my relatively slim wrists the Radiomir range gives me a more comfortable fit.
The 268 is a 45mm watch, and whilst this is mitigated by the Radiomir lug design its still a relatively hefty beast. This, and some of the recent threads I've read over on TZ-UK regarding the smaller 42mm designs, prompted me to think seriously about adding a 337 or 338 to my collection, and a decision was made pretty swiftly when a member there posted a heads-up relating to some exceedingly rare discounts on new pieces that were available for a very limited time. The following day I'd paid for a brand new 337, and today it arrived in a rather hefty package that I barely had a chance to open before leaving the office and heading home. Obviously, the watch is now on my wrist, and very, very pleased I am too. The 337 is part of Panerai's "Historic" range. Inside is the calibre P999/1 - a hand-wound mechanical movement beating at 21,600 alternations/hour, executed entirely by Panerai and measuring 12 lignes and just 3 mm thick. It has 19 jewels, a Glucydur balance, Incabloc anti-shock device, a power reserve of 60 hours and 144 individual components. It really is rather pretty... The fantastically clear dial is has subsidiary seconds at 9, and aside from that features what I think is Panerai's wonderful sandwich construction. The lume on both dial and hands is inordinately bright, and the impression of the whole in terms of fit and finish is one of quality and heft. The thing I'm really pleased about is the size. My wrist is about 6.75" and the 42mm case wears absolutely perfectly. Because it's also relatively slim it fits under a shirt cuff without any problem at all, and will therefore serve perfectly as both a dressy and casual watch. (I know a lot of people feel that 42mm is too small for a Panerai, but to be honest that kind of judgement can only be made on the basis of wrist size; I'm sure those with 8-9" wrists may well prefer the larger cases, but it's horses for courses in my view.) Anyway, that's enough rambling, so here's a few photos that hopefully convey what a beautiful watch this is. And those of you that haven't yet tried a Panerai - don't write them off without giving them a chance. The two ranges (Luminor and Radiomir) and so different that there's really little comparison, and the quality and finish may just surprise you!
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22 January 2014, 08:31 PM | #2 |
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looks perfect on you, tony! really very nice, and exactly as this model should. i really think these 42s should get more love than they do. that all being said, your 6.75 wrist looks like it can comfortably handle bigger models. congrats! |
22 January 2014, 09:08 PM | #3 |
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Great photos and I appreciate the lesson.
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22 January 2014, 09:24 PM | #4 |
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Very nice and great shots as always Tony! Cheers,
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22 January 2014, 09:36 PM | #5 |
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That looks like a great watch! I love it!
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22 January 2014, 09:52 PM | #6 |
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Great writeup and great photos Tony!
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22 January 2014, 10:22 PM | #7 |
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Thanks all :)
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22 January 2014, 10:28 PM | #8 |
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That's beautiful Tony! Congrats and now you've got me thinking ....
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22 January 2014, 10:34 PM | #9 |
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Absolutely stunning photos and 42mm to me is perfect as well for a PAM.
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22 January 2014, 11:00 PM | #10 |
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Wow... Great photos. I really like the watch
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23 January 2014, 04:01 AM | #11 |
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42 mm is perfect, somebody elsewhere mentioned 47 mm is a clown size and I tend to agree.
One question though, why not the 512 with the much nicer lugs ? That is imo the perfect Panerai and the only one I would consider.
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23 January 2014, 05:04 AM | #12 |
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Great photos!
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23 January 2014, 05:06 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Well, I for one would always take a 337 over a 512. Most importantly, I dislike the ecru lume (fake patina) of the 512. As for the lugs, I think the 1940 Radiomir lugs look better on the 47mm models. For the 337, the classic (and unique) wire lugs look perfect. Also, the wire lugs permit a wider strap on the 42mm vs. the comparatively more narrow 512. |
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23 January 2014, 05:17 AM | #14 |
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i dont get the wire lug thing , but your pictures and write up are very tempting ,,, great pics indeed and a great read , many thanks
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23 January 2014, 07:44 AM | #15 |
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Thanks for pointing that out and I have to agree. Don't like the fake patina either.
There always seems to be something wrong with a Panerai for me. I think the wire lugs look cheap and old. Don't like that on any brand. On the Luminor I could not live with the crown locking system. Oh well, maybe some day the 512 model wil get the dial from the 337 and be perfect for me.
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23 January 2014, 11:55 PM | #16 |
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I love it! Well done!
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24 January 2014, 12:31 AM | #17 |
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It may be worth clarifying for anyone who hasn't handled a Rad that the term "wire" is actually a misnomer. They're tubular steel, in fact, and I think it's a great system in terms of both ergonomics and strap changing (and also very solid).
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Tony |
24 January 2014, 12:44 AM | #18 |
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Very nice, great pics!
Always loved the balance on that dial, agree 42mm is a great size & fits you perfect! |
24 January 2014, 12:51 AM | #19 |
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Great photos. I'm glad you are enjoying the 337. As a former owner of a 338 (also a 42mm Radiomir) and various 44, 45, and 47mm models, size is a mixed bag. I have 6.5 inch wrists and I found 47mm wears way too big. On the other hand, 42mm wears much better. However, I found the dial proportions felt diminutive on the 42mm after experiencing the larger models, and it just didn't work for me. My advice to anyone interested in any Panerai is to go try them all on first.
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24 January 2014, 12:47 PM | #20 |
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25 January 2014, 12:48 AM | #21 |
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Beautiful! Wear it in good health!
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25 January 2014, 12:14 PM | #22 |
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My 337 says hi!
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