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zeppe19avr · 28 February 2007, 11:19 AM

Sorry if this subject is being brought back again, I forgot about where I read what product to use to remove light scratches from my SS oyster bracelet (not the polished sides, the regular ss satin finish ) Thank you all for this site, I appreciate the time you spend answering all of our questions.
Robert, SD Z series proud owner.

Incurable · 28 February 2007, 11:46 AM

I'm sure there are as many methods as there are members here but... I've used a fine Scotch-Brite pad before. Stroke one way only, away from the case and avoid touching any polished surfaces. I've found this very effective in masking, reducing and eliminating light cross-grain scratches on my Oyster bracelets. If you want, you can remove the bracelet from the watch, lay it out flat and avoid any inadvertant contact with the case or lugs. Be careful to start your stroke straight as the natural grain is parallel to the length of the bracelet. Any wobbly or unsure starts will show. Light, long strokes are all that are necessary. Don't 'work' one spot only. That's my $.02, let the debate begin...

Alex Stylianou · 28 February 2007, 05:03 PM

JJ's tooth brush meathod works for me on my jubillee

OysterDavid · 1 March 2007, 12:18 AM

I just ordered the Bergeon fiberglass brush tool for my Oyster and its light scratches. It hasn't arrived it, and I was told to practice on an old spoon to get a feel for how much pressure is needed for the proper finish.

I'll be happy to report back on whether or not I'm successful in either solving the minor scratch problem or contributing to the Rolex watchmaker's retirement fund to repair my laymen's attempt at braclet refinishing.

oldbreadstinks · 1 March 2007, 02:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incurable

I'm sure there are as many methods as there are members here but... I've used a fine Scotch-Brite pad before. Stroke one way only, away from the case and avoid touching any polished surfaces. I've found this very effective in masking, reducing and eliminating light cross-grain scratches on my Oyster bracelets. If you want, you can remove the bracelet from the watch, lay it out flat and avoid any inadvertant contact with the case or lugs. Be careful to start your stroke straight as the natural grain is parallel to the length of the bracelet. Any wobbly or unsure starts will show. Light, long strokes are all that are necessary. Don't 'work' one spot only. That's my $.02, let the debate begin...

ok i think i'm going to try this one........ on a spoon first

ohlins · 1 March 2007, 02:50 AM

haha how about a spoon made of 904L SS.....

Solo118 · 1 March 2007, 03:42 AM

The cape cod cloth is being shipped to my house... I just hope I can do the job right

Does anyone know if I can use the cape cod cloth on my bezel?

montecristo · 1 March 2007, 04:07 AM

http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=13531

Alex Stylianou · 1 March 2007, 04:57 PM

oh yeah also you can use an old SOFT tea towel

Incurable · 1 March 2007, 05:20 PM

I've used the method I described above on my Oyster bracelets and have had very good success matching the factory finish and removing offending cross-grain scratches. I'm not sure about the Cape Cod pad. I have one but never used it. I think (and verified via the Cape Cod website) that it's purpose is to restore bright finishes, not brushed. The only down side to the Scotch-Brite method is it requires some finesse. Wobbly starts, too much pressure, back and forth strokes and rubbing are to be avoided. LIGHTLY stroke in one direction only... work up to where you want to be and don't overshoot. I'd hate to see anyone disfigure their bracelet based on my 'fix' for a common problem. For those deft of hand and a due caution, it works fine and is indistinguishable from the original finish.

OysterDavid · 2 March 2007, 06:59 AM

Well, the Bergeon Fiberglass brush arrived today, and I just spent the better part of my lunch hour playing around with it.

Here's my report...(ahem...clearing throat...)
As suggested by the vendor, I found a couple of pieces of flat stainless steel scraps to 'practice' on. I extended the brush to different lengths and tried different levels of pressure. Sure enough on the practice scraps, I was able after a bit of time to lay down a pretty good brushed finish.

So, onward to the Oyster bracelet that has some obvious surface scratches and swirlls.

Good golly, Miss Molly, that 904 Stainless steel that Rolex uses is one tough metal!!

What seemed to be an easy technique on scrap stainless steel is almost impossible on a Rolex Oyster. I've tried different bristle extentension lengths, different amounts of pressure, one way strokes, two way strokes, actual 'brushing', and I'm barely making a dent in the finish.

I am able to brush out the very lightest of swirls, but anything more pronounced...forget it. And I'm not talking 'deep' scratches...just the usual flotsam and jetsam that we all pick up in day to day wearing.

So, now I've got a tool that will probably work if I want to put a brushed finish on an old spoon or a screwdriver in my tool box, or something to scratch plastic with....but for a Rolex Oyster with brushed finish...it's back to the watchmaker with the professional buffing machine.

Oh, and by the way...a fiberglass bristle came off and lodged in my finger. You know how paper cuts feel? Just like this.

Of course, your milage may vary.

(You may sit down, Oysterdavid)

Solo118 · 2 March 2007, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Incurable

I've used the method I described above on my Oyster bracelets and have had very good success matching the factory finish and removing offending cross-grain scratches. I'm not sure about the Cape Cod pad. I have one but never used it. I think (and verified via the Cape Cod website) that it's purpose is to restore bright finishes, not brushed. The only down side to the Scotch-Brite method is it requires some finesse. Wobbly starts, too much pressure, back and forth strokes and rubbing are to be avoided. LIGHTLY stroke in one direction only... work up to where you want to be and don't overshoot. I'd hate to see anyone disfigure their bracelet based on my 'fix' for a common problem. For those deft of hand and a due caution, it works fine and is indistinguishable from the original finish.

The cape cod (to my understanding) would be better for those with TT bracelets or polished SS rather than the brushed finish (which the cape cod would ruin making it a polished look)

Alcan · 2 March 2007, 08:37 AM

I have found that for anything other than the lightest of scratches, this works best. You should practice on a piece of scrap material first. Also, tape off the polished areas to avoid marring them.
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zeppe19avr · 2 March 2007, 09:46 AM

Oh that's funny !!!

What grit of grinding disc is best ??

28 February 2007, 11:19 AM	#1
zeppe19avr Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Real Name: Robert Location: Ontario, Canada Watch: Sea-dweller Z ser. Posts: 67	Removing light scratches from bracelet Sorry if this subject is being brought back again, I forgot about where I read what product to use to remove light scratches from my SS oyster bracelet (not the polished sides, the regular ss satin finish ) Thank you all for this site, I appreciate the time you spend answering all of our questions. Robert, SD Z series proud owner.

28 February 2007, 11:46 AM	#2
Incurable "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Real Name: Pat Location: PNW Watch: your P's and Q's Posts: 2,549	I'm sure there are as many methods as there are members here but... I've used a fine Scotch-Brite pad before. Stroke one way only, away from the case and avoid touching any polished surfaces. I've found this very effective in masking, reducing and eliminating light cross-grain scratches on my Oyster bracelets. If you want, you can remove the bracelet from the watch, lay it out flat and avoid any inadvertant contact with the case or lugs. Be careful to start your stroke straight as the natural grain is parallel to the length of the bracelet. Any wobbly or unsure starts will show. Light, long strokes are all that are necessary. Don't 'work' one spot only. That's my $.02, let the debate begin... __________________ Rolex GMT Master II 16710 (Blk/Blk) Rolex Explorer 114270 Sinn 356 Sa Flieger Limes Endurance 1Tausend Too many others... #2592 It may seem like I'm doing nothing but, at a cellular level, I'm actually quite busy...

1 March 2007, 02:50 AM	#6
ohlins "TRF" Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Singapore Watch: Rolex Posts: 1,213	haha how about a spoon made of 904L SS..... __________________ the hype is true. a crown for every achievement. visit my audio and watch blog & how to use the rolex comfort link?

1 March 2007, 04:07 AM	#8
montecristo "TRF" Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Real Name: Ken Location: New York Watch: 116234 DateJust Posts: 1,769	http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=13531 __________________ My Rolex reference books collection: The Rolex Report: An Unauthorized Reference Book For The Rolex Enthusiast Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Book for Collectors) (Hardcover) Vintage Rolex Sports Models: A Complete Visual Reference & Unauthorized History (Hardcover)

1 March 2007, 05:20 PM	#10
Incurable "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Real Name: Pat Location: PNW Watch: your P's and Q's Posts: 2,549	I've used the method I described above on my Oyster bracelets and have had very good success matching the factory finish and removing offending cross-grain scratches. I'm not sure about the Cape Cod pad. I have one but never used it. I think (and verified via the Cape Cod website) that it's purpose is to restore bright finishes, not brushed. The only down side to the Scotch-Brite method is it requires some finesse. Wobbly starts, too much pressure, back and forth strokes and rubbing are to be avoided. LIGHTLY stroke in one direction only... work up to where you want to be and don't overshoot. I'd hate to see anyone disfigure their bracelet based on my 'fix' for a common problem. For those deft of hand and a due caution, it works fine and is indistinguishable from the original finish. __________________ Rolex GMT Master II 16710 (Blk/Blk) Rolex Explorer 114270 Sinn 356 Sa Flieger Limes Endurance 1Tausend Too many others... #2592 It may seem like I'm doing nothing but, at a cellular level, I'm actually quite busy...

28 February 2007, 05:03 PM	#3
Alex Stylianou "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: UK Posts: 1,785	JJ's tooth brush meathod works for me on my jubillee

1 March 2007, 12:18 AM	#4
OysterDavid Banned Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: S F Bay Area Posts: 621	I just ordered the Bergeon fiberglass brush tool for my Oyster and its light scratches. It hasn't arrived it, and I was told to practice on an old spoon to get a feel for how much pressure is needed for the proper finish. I'll be happy to report back on whether or not I'm successful in either solving the minor scratch problem or contributing to the Rolex watchmaker's retirement fund to repair my laymen's attempt at braclet refinishing.

1 March 2007, 03:42 AM	#7
Solo118 "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: USA Watch: Daytona Posts: 6,068	The cape cod cloth is being shipped to my house... I just hope I can do the job right Does anyone know if I can use the cape cod cloth on my bezel?

1 March 2007, 04:57 PM	#9
Alex Stylianou "TRF" Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: UK Posts: 1,785	oh yeah also you can use an old SOFT tea towel

2 March 2007, 06:59 AM	#11
OysterDavid Banned Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: S F Bay Area Posts: 621	Fiberglass brush update Well, the Bergeon Fiberglass brush arrived today, and I just spent the better part of my lunch hour playing around with it. Here's my report...(ahem...clearing throat...) As suggested by the vendor, I found a couple of pieces of flat stainless steel scraps to 'practice' on. I extended the brush to different lengths and tried different levels of pressure. Sure enough on the practice scraps, I was able after a bit of time to lay down a pretty good brushed finish. So, onward to the Oyster bracelet that has some obvious surface scratches and swirlls. Good golly, Miss Molly, that 904 Stainless steel that Rolex uses is one tough metal!! What seemed to be an easy technique on scrap stainless steel is almost impossible on a Rolex Oyster. I've tried different bristle extentension lengths, different amounts of pressure, one way strokes, two way strokes, actual 'brushing', and I'm barely making a dent in the finish. I am able to brush out the very lightest of swirls, but anything more pronounced...forget it. And I'm not talking 'deep' scratches...just the usual flotsam and jetsam that we all pick up in day to day wearing. So, now I've got a tool that will probably work if I want to put a brushed finish on an old spoon or a screwdriver in my tool box, or something to scratch plastic with....but for a Rolex Oyster with brushed finish...it's back to the watchmaker with the professional buffing machine. Oh, and by the way...a fiberglass bristle came off and lodged in my finger. You know how paper cuts feel? Just like this. Of course, your milage may vary. (You may sit down, Oysterdavid)

2 March 2007, 09:46 AM	#14
zeppe19avr Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Real Name: Robert Location: Ontario, Canada Watch: Sea-dweller Z ser. Posts: 67	Oh that's funny !!! What grit of grinding disc is best ??

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