5513 Help

[ez814]

Hi there, this is my first post. I am in the market for my first Rolex and I think I have decided on the 5513. I have a budget of 5k and wanted some advice about what are the best trade offs regarding originality of various parts, condition, polish, bracelet, b&p, service history, etc. Of course I would love for it to he all original and perfect but I think we all know that won't hit my budget. Maybe a list if most important to least important would be a good route to take. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Ian


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[nolaclarky]

email me. knoxclark@gmail.com

i have a 5513 for sale. total refurb job in June 2011..not your vintage collectors item but new dial, hands, crown so good as new with old look. i have pics and receipts. thanks.

[datejust24]

nolaclarky....please read forum rules..

[ez814]

Surprised in not getting any action here with the amount if 5513 chatter. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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[nolaclarky]

and what forum rule did i breach datejust24? i'd rather you tell me than actually read them. saves me time. now keeping the 5513 and selling the 114060 so mute anyway. thanks.

[shane0mack]

Originally Posted by nolaclarky

and what forum rule did i breach datejust24? i'd rather you tell me than actually read them. saves me time. now keeping the 5513 and selling the 114060 so mute anyway. thanks.

ah yes...so mute...

anyway, you should read the posting rules on the General Forum. us telling you there's no sales talk outside of the sales forums may save you time, but it's not our job to save you time. it's of no concern to us if you get yourself booted due to your lack of time to read a few rules.

[datejust24]

Originally Posted by shane0mack

ah yes...so mute...

anyway, you should read the posting rules on the General Forum. us telling you there's no sales talk outside of the sales forums may save you time, but it's not our job to save you time. it's of no concern to us if you get yourself booted due to your lack of time to read a few rules.

[Old Expat Beast]

Originally Posted by shane0mack

ah yes...so mute...

anyway, you should read the posting rules on the General Forum. us telling you there's no sales talk outside of the sales forums may save you time, but it's not our job to save you time. it's of no concern to us if you get yourself booted due to your lack of time to read a few rules.

[ez814]

Now that we got that out of the way, how about that 5513 info?


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[shane0mack]

Originally Posted by ez814

Now that we got that out of the way, how about that 5513 info?


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Ha, sorry about that. I got a little caught up in the moment. With a budget of $5K, your best bet for an all/mostly original example would likely be a later model, something with a gloss dial. Some of these can still carry a nice aging of the markers/hands. The best advice I can give is take your time. Just look for the best example you can afford. Who knows, maybe by the time you find the right one, you'll have saved even more money.

[Michael M.]

Nice unmolested 5513 Matte's are between $6,500-$7,500. Often times more depending on patina, and obviously more for box/papers.

[ez814]

Originally Posted by shane0mack

Ha, sorry about that. I got a little caught up in the moment. With a budget of $5K, your best bet for an all/mostly original example would likely be a later model, something with a gloss dial. Some of these can still carry a nice aging of the markers/hands. The best advice I can give is take your time. Just look for the best example you can afford. Who knows, maybe by the time you find the right one, you'll have saved even more money.

Thank you sir!


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[g-boac]

Hi Ian,

Welcome!

The 5513 family runs something like this:

1962 - 1966: glossy gilt dial, meters first
1967 - 1969: matte dial, meters first
1970 - 1976: matte dial, feet first, "Pre-COMEX"
1977 - 1984: matte dial, feet first, "Maxi Dial"
mid-1984 - 1989: gloss dial, feet first, applied indices and markers with white gold (WG) surrounds.

Gilt dial means that the print on the dial (lettering, numbers, logo, minute tick marks, etc.) is gold-colored. All other dials are in white print. Meters First, or "MF" means that the depth rating of the watch is listed first in meters, followed by feet. Feet First, or "FF" means the opposite.

Realize that there aren't hard and fast cutoffs like there are "model years" in cars. . .Rolex watches were produced and tracked by serial number, and serial numbers are known to APPROXIMATELY correspond to certain dates.

Within the families above, there are also several additional variants. Things like "chapter ring dials", "exclamation point dials", and "underline dials" in the early gilt era; "Bart Simpson dials" in the late gilt dial era; and five different variants (Mark I thru Mark V) of Maxi Dial. For a COMPREHENSIVE rundown of just dial variants in the matte dial era, see http://www.5513mattedial.com

Things to look at for originality are parts that could have changed when the watch was serviced. On a 5513, these include: case, caseback, crown, crystal, dial, hands, bezel insert, pearl in bezel insert, and bracelet + endlinks. Each of these is a discussion point of its own, but you'll learn over time. Two things to watch out for are relumed dials (meaning the luminous paint has been redone on the dial or hands), and "restored" dials, or "redials", which are dials that have been painted or otherwise redone/corrected after the dial left the factory. Also be aware of the difference between a nice, naturally aged dial (or a pristine dial - both are good finds); and one that has been water damaged or otherwise damaged. . ."damage" is not the same as "patina" or "aging".

Of course, you also want to look at the mechanical condition of the movement, and make sure the watch runs well. Note that for all the discussion of "originality" you'll find here, it is ok to replace movement parts - by nature they wear out, new parts look like old, and you don't have the same "originality" factor here as you do say, if you were to replace a 1962 dial with a 1989 dial.

I noticed you're in San Francisco. A GREAT place for you to visit in person is HQ Milton, if only to get a look at a number of pieces in person.

http://www.hqmilton.com

On your first trip, you should just go look. . .talk Rolexes, and then go home and look on the internet some more. You'll find you see new things on listing you've seen before or are seeing for the first time, having now had the benefit of seeing some 5513s in person. In addition to HQ Milton, of course, there are countless other sources for vintage 5513s - but HQ Milton seems to have a reputation as a very nice one, that happens to be in your backyard.

Good luck!
Mark

[ez814]

Originally Posted by g-boac

Hi Ian,

Welcome!

The 5513 family runs something like this:

1962 - 1966: glossy gilt dial, meters first
1967 - 1969: matte dial, meters first
1970 - 1976: matte dial, feet first, "Pre-COMEX"
1977 - 1984: matte dial, feet first, "Maxi Dial"
mid-1984 - 1989: gloss dial, feet first, applied indices and markers with white gold (WG) surrounds.

Gilt dial means that the print on the dial (lettering, numbers, logo, minute tick marks, etc.) is gold-colored. All other dials are in white print. Meters First, or "MF" means that the depth rating of the watch is listed first in meters, followed by feet. Feet First, or "FF" means the opposite.

Realize that there aren't hard and fast cutoffs like there are "model years" in cars. . .Rolex watches were produced and tracked by serial number, and serial numbers are known to APPROXIMATELY correspond to certain dates.

Within the families above, there are also several additional variants. Things like "chapter ring dials", "exclamation point dials", and "underline dials" in the early gilt era; "Bart Simpson dials" in the late gilt dial era; and five different variants (Mark I thru Mark V) of Maxi Dial. For a COMPREHENSIVE rundown of just dial variants in the matte dial era, see http://www.5513mattedial.com

Things to look at for originality are parts that could have changed when the watch was serviced. On a 5513, these include: case, caseback, crown, crystal, dial, hands, bezel insert, pearl in bezel insert, and bracelet + endlinks. Each of these is a discussion point of its own, but you'll learn over time. Two things to watch out for are relumed dials (meaning the luminous paint has been redone on the dial or hands), and "restored" dials, or "redials", which are dials that have been painted or otherwise redone/corrected after the dial left the factory. Also be aware of the difference between a nice, naturally aged dial (or a pristine dial - both are good finds); and one that has been water damaged or otherwise damaged. . ."damage" is not the same as "patina" or "aging".

Of course, you also want to look at the mechanical condition of the movement, and make sure the watch runs well. Note that for all the discussion of "originality" you'll find here, it is ok to replace movement parts - by nature they wear out, new parts look like old, and you don't have the same "originality" factor here as you do say, if you were to replace a 1962 dial with a 1989 dial.

I noticed you're in San Francisco. A GREAT place for you to visit in person is HQ Milton, if only to get a look at a number of pieces in person.

http://www.hqmilton.com

On your first trip, you should just go look. . .talk Rolexes, and then go home and look on the internet some more. You'll find you see new things on listing you've seen before or are seeing for the first time, having now had the benefit of seeing some 5513s in person. In addition to HQ Milton, of course, there are countless other sources for vintage 5513s - but HQ Milton seems to have a reputation as a very nice one, that happens to be in your backyard.

Good luck!
Mark

Wow Mark. Thank you for taking the time and providing some insight. I have actually contacted Jacek but haven't been able to make it in yet. I'll head in for a visit and will share my pics when the time comes. Thanks again.

Ian


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[nolaclarky]

i apologize to datejust24 for the earlier breach of forum rules, in addition to the smart ass reply. i meant to write moot, not mute but inappropriate all together.