Seadweller 1665 advice

[FrenchBigCrown]

Hi guys,

Hope everyone is safe and well.

I'm looking at this Seadweller - Chrono Ad - https://www.chrono24.co.uk/rolex/sea...id20562853.htm




(More pics in the ad).

It looks like a correct MK1 dial (with a couple of marks on the 12 o'clock marker that I can live with).

At first I thought the bezel insert was a service item - but now I'm thinking it may be a MK3 version - I'm not sure.

There's a slight scuff by the 10 minute marker on the bezel itself - but again, I can live with that.

The case looks fat enough to me - your thoughts guys?

Before I ask for more photos etc. (I need to see the reverse of the watch for starters) - is there anything obvious I'm missing?

Many thanks in advance for any help/advice.

[swish77]

Looks nice ... on the surface. The bleached-out photos are so bad it's hard to tell for sure. Most importantly, there's no serial number mentioned, so it's unclear whether it's correct for an MK1 dial.

I'd ask for better photos in natural light, including of the case back (inside and out), movement AND a UV photo of the dial/hands. Also, I'd want to see more detailed photos of the set, especially the guarantee paper.

More minor, I'd ask if that date wheel is the original metallic silver kind with open 6s. Hard to tell in the photo. And what's the date/code stamp on the bracelet clasp? Case does appear quite thick.

Good luck!

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by swish77

Looks nice ... on the surface. The bleached-out photos are so bad it's hard to tell for sure. Most importantly, there's no serial number mentioned, so it's unclear whether it's correct for an MK1 dial.

I'd ask for better photos in natural light, including of the case back (inside and out), movement AND a UV photo of the dial/hands. Also, I'd want to see more detailed photos of the set, especially the guarantee paper.

More minor, I'd ask if that date wheel is the original metallic silver kind with open 6s. Hard to tell in the photo. And what's the date/code stamp on the bracelet clasp? Case does appear quite thick.

Good luck!

Thanks swish.

[FrenchBigCrown]

While I'm waiting for lume shots etc. - I found a couple more that I like (a bit more expensive though).



More pics in ad here: https://www.uhrenworld.com/en/watch-...l-set-ref-1665




More pics in ad here: https://www.uhrenworld.com/en/watch-...l-set-ref-1665

Any thoughts swish? Or anyone else? Any observations and/or advice gratefully accepted dude.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by FrenchBigCrown

While I'm waiting for lume shots etc. - I found a couple more that I like (a bit more expensive though).



Any thoughts swish? Or anyone else? Any observations and/or advice gratefully accepted dude.

I prefer the first one, with the better patina on the dial/hands. Looks like a nice MK3 dial and good-looking thick case. The bracelet looks original too, with a correct date code. (The second one has a completely re-cut case, which is OK, but not as desirable, IMHO.)

I'd ask for a more detailed natural light photo so you can examine the lume more. You can't see any texture because the photos are a little bleached out and low res. I'd also ask for a UV photo.

I think the insert might be later and it appears to have a service crystal, but it does have that nice original date wheel. As always, make sure the apparent marks in the photos are on the crystal, not the dial.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by swish77

I prefer the first one, with the better patina on the dial/hands. Looks like a nice MK3 dial and good-looking thick case. The bracelet looks original too, with a correct date code. (The second one has a completely re-cut case, which is OK, but not as desirable, IMHO.)

I'd ask for a more detailed natural light photo so you can examine the lume more. You can't see any texture because the photos are a little bleached out and low res. I'd also ask for a UV photo.

I think the insert might be later and it appears to have a service crystal, but it does have that nice original date wheel. As always, make sure the apparent marks in the photos are on the crystal, not the dial.

Thanks fellah.

I prefer the first one (of these two) too.

The lady I spoke to is sending me UV shots and reckons they can 'sympathetically' polish the glass, (a little) - as those marks ARE in the glass.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Thanks again - really appreciated.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by swish77

Looks nice ... on the surface. The bleached-out photos are so bad it's hard to tell for sure. Most importantly, there's no serial number mentioned, so it's unclear whether it's correct for an MK1 dial.

I'd ask for better photos in natural light, including of the case back (inside and out), movement AND a UV photo of the dial/hands. Also, I'd want to see more detailed photos of the set, especially the guarantee paper.

More minor, I'd ask if that date wheel is the original metallic silver kind with open 6s. Hard to tell in the photo. And what's the date/code stamp on the bracelet clasp? Case does appear quite thick.

Good luck!

Thanks again dude,

Back to the first/original (Chrono) one - still waiting for UV shots - but the clasp code is 'VE' and the punched papers show a serial of 578**** and sold in Germany in May 1980.

So, I'm happy with that. Let's see what the UV shows.

I think the dial and hands on the first of the second two (if that makes sense?) are the nicest - but we're looking at around £2000 ($2700) more...

Decisions... decisions.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by FrenchBigCrown

While I'm waiting for lume shots etc. - I found a couple more that I like (a bit more expensive though).



More pics in ad here: https://www.uhrenworld.com/en/watch-...l-set-ref-1665

UV shot of this ^ watch.

[swish77]

Hmmmmm .... That UV shot looks very different than my 1665 and 5512 under UV. Tritium from the '70s-'80s usually emits a white color under UV and then is dead when you remove the light.

Not sure what conclusions can be drawn from the difference, if any. I know different batches of tritium mixtures were used through the years, but I'm not sure if it would explain the difference. Maybe there's a simple explanation, like the variations in the intensity of the UV perhaps causes different reactions.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by swish77

Hmmmmm .... That UV shot looks very different than my 1665 and 5512 under UV. Tritium from the '70s-'80s usually emits a white color under UV and then is dead when you remove the light.

Not sure what conclusions can be drawn from the difference, if any. I know different batches of tritium mixtures were used through the years, but I'm not sure if it would explain the difference. Maybe there's a simple explanation, like the variations in the intensity of the UV perhaps causes different reactions.

Thanks for all your help swish.

I'm gonna make a road trip and drive to Munich - see the watch 'in the flesh' (as it were.)

I'll let you know how I get on (if you're interested.)

Thanks again dude, really appreciated.

[XavierM]

Hi,

Insert on the first one (Belgium) looks like a Mk5 (New classification by Xeramic) but it really is impossible to tell precisely with this quality.
Looks like a later clasp.

The two German watches have service insert.

Good hunt :)

[FrenchBigCrown]

Originally Posted by XavierM

Hi,

Insert on the first one (Belgium) looks like a Mk5 (New classification by Xeramic) but it really is impossible to tell precisely with this quality.
Looks like a later clasp.

The two German watches have service insert.

Good hunt :)

Thank you.

The clasp on the first one is stamped VE. I think it's original.

I'm still looking - I think I've found a DRSD that I fancy - I'm just waiting on more photos.

Thanks for your help.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Photos so far - from a 'phone - waiting on some larger shots (and a UV photo)

I'd be interested in your thoughts guys...

Thanks in advance.

[FrenchBigCrown]

[FrenchBigCrown]

[1665fan]

Originally Posted by FrenchBigCrown

Crown guards are almost gone…..

[swish77]

Originally Posted by 1665fan

Crown guards are almost gone…..

Definitely. And overall the case is over polished. Just look at how those poor lug holes are bowed inward.

For a comparison, see the lugs on my DRSD, which retain their thickness and what I call the “ridge” where they slope down. That almost always gets removed with overly aggressive polishing.

The goal, IMHO, is not to look for perfection and an untouched case (virtually impossible to find) but a case that has been minimally polished and retains its lines and chunky feel.

[FrenchBigCrown]

Thanks guys... the search continues. :)