First "nice" watch; am I missing any options?

[dannyboy2233]

Hi all!

Longtime forum reader here. I'm a huge watch fan but new to collecting, and I'm currently looking to buy my first "high-end" piece (meaning ~$5k price range). I'll likely be buying grey market/second-hand, as I plan to keep this watch indefinitely and I'm not too concerned with perfect condition/full set/resale value/etc.

My current "collection" consists of a 1967 Omega Seamaster DeVille dress watch and a two-year-old Seiko SKX 007 (my daily). I live a very active lifestyle, so I'd rather spend my money on a SS/waterproof/semi-indestructible piece I'll be able to wear like my Seiko. I like classic designs, and I am a bit partial to dive watches (recently got PADI-certified and I love the idea of mechanical robustness).

That being said, I've compiled a list of potential purchases that are within my price range. They include: Omega Speedy Pro (recent w/ sapphire sandwich), Omega Seamaster (oldish w/ blue wavy dial), Grand Seiko Snowflake (SBGA211), Cartier Tank Solo, JLC Reverso (probably would have to be pretty old), or Tudor Black Bay (new).

I've ruled out a Rolex, as it would be too flashy for someone my age; I'd rather no one know I'm wearing $5k on my wrist :)

Current rankings: Speedy in first; it's a true classic, I've loved it for years, and the sapphire sandwich looks beautiful and more robust than the Hesalite crystal. Second is the Seamaster, which I've also liked for years, but which on off days seems a little tacky (I can't tell if the waves look as good as I think they do). Dark horse is the Grand Seiko; spending $5k on a Seiko would be a tough mental barrier for me (especially for my first higher-end purchase), but I'm obsessed with the mechanics of the Spring Drive movement and the SBGA211's finishing.

If anyone can think of something I'm missing or should consider, I'd be happy to hear it. This will likely be my last purchase for a while. Thanks in advance!

[timepieceluvr]

Originally Posted by dannyboy2233

Hi all!



Longtime forum reader here. I'm a huge watch fan but new to collecting, and I'm currently looking to buy my first "high-end" piece (meaning ~$5k price range). I'll likely be buying grey market/second-hand, as I plan to keep this watch indefinitely and I'm not too concerned with perfect condition/full set/resale value/etc.



My current "collection" consists of a 1967 Omega Seamaster DeVille dress watch and a two-year-old Seiko SKX 007 (my daily). I live a very active lifestyle, so I'd rather spend my money on a SS/waterproof/semi-indestructible piece I'll be able to wear like my Seiko. I like classic designs, and I am a bit partial to dive watches (recently got PADI-certified and I love the idea of mechanical robustness).



That being said, I've compiled a list of potential purchases that are within my price range. They include: Omega Speedy Pro (recent w/ sapphire sandwich), Omega Seamaster (oldish w/ blue wavy dial), Grand Seiko Snowflake (SBGA211), Cartier Tank Solo, JLC Reverso (probably would have to be pretty old), or Tudor Black Bay (new).



I've ruled out a Rolex, as it would be too flashy for someone my age; I'd rather no one know I'm wearing $5k on my wrist :)



Current rankings: Speedy in first; it's a true classic, I've loved it for years, and the sapphire sandwich looks beautiful and more robust than the Hesalite crystal. Second is the Seamaster, which I've also liked for years, but which on off days seems a little tacky (I can't tell if the waves look as good as I think they do). Dark horse is the Grand Seiko; spending $5k on a Seiko would be a tough mental barrier for me (especially for my first higher-end purchase), but I'm obsessed with the mechanics of the Spring Drive movement and the SBGA211's finishing.



If anyone can think of something I'm missing or should consider, I'd be happy to hear it. This will likely be my last purchase for a while. Thanks in advance!

Get the Speedmaster.


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[mongrelnomoad]

Speedy. Bonafide legend, and at your price point you can take your time and have your pick of many variants. That said, the sapphire sandwich would not be my first choice: the hessalite is part of the DNA and the movement isn’t the prettiest....

[JR16]

Originally Posted by dannyboy2233

Hi all!



Longtime forum reader here. I'm a huge watch fan but new to collecting, and I'm currently looking to buy my first "high-end" piece (meaning ~$5k price range). I'll likely be buying grey market/second-hand, as I plan to keep this watch indefinitely and I'm not too concerned with perfect condition/full set/resale value/etc.



My current "collection" consists of a 1967 Omega Seamaster DeVille dress watch and a two-year-old Seiko SKX 007 (my daily). I live a very active lifestyle, so I'd rather spend my money on a SS/waterproof/semi-indestructible piece I'll be able to wear like my Seiko. I like classic designs, and I am a bit partial to dive watches (recently got PADI-certified and I love the idea of mechanical robustness).



That being said, I've compiled a list of potential purchases that are within my price range. They include: Omega Speedy Pro (recent w/ sapphire sandwich), Omega Seamaster (oldish w/ blue wavy dial), Grand Seiko Snowflake (SBGA211), Cartier Tank Solo, JLC Reverso (probably would have to be pretty old), or Tudor Black Bay (new).



I've ruled out a Rolex, as it would be too flashy for someone my age; I'd rather no one know I'm wearing $5k on my wrist :)



Current rankings: Speedy in first; it's a true classic, I've loved it for years, and the sapphire sandwich looks beautiful and more robust than the Hesalite crystal. Second is the Seamaster, which I've also liked for years, but which on off days seems a little tacky (I can't tell if the waves look as good as I think they do). Dark horse is the Grand Seiko; spending $5k on a Seiko would be a tough mental barrier for me (especially for my first higher-end purchase), but I'm obsessed with the mechanics of the Spring Drive movement and the SBGA211's finishing.



If anyone can think of something I'm missing or should consider, I'd be happy to hear it. This will likely be my last purchase for a while. Thanks in advance!

Speedy is great but I think the downside of the speedy based on your criteria is water resistance. Personally I wouldn’t wear my speedy swimming.

I would consider the Seamaster 300M- I think it ticks all your boxes, but also think the black bay (regular or the 58) or pelagos is a good choice.

If you are not considering Rolex only bc you think it will be too “flashy” , I would encourage you to at least consider some of the less flashy pieces around your budget - OP39, exp1, Sub 14060M, exp2 16570 (polar or black dial).




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[_speedmaster_]

The Speedy isn't going to fit the criteria of a tough, WR watch. Go for the new seamaster 300m (buy preowned).

[1William]

I would do some research on the pre-owned market and what our Trusted Sellers have to offer. The term "Buy right, Sell right" will serve you well here and in the future. I would buy a pre-owned Speed Master and a Tudor Black Bay for just slightly north of the 5K you have listed. Both watches can be worn on a bracelet, leather or NATO strap and you can get a lot of looks from two watches without much additional cash. Most times I buy to sell understanding that I will trade or sell the watch in the future so look at the prices and take off 10-20% on a pre-owned purchase and up to 40-50% on new if you pay full retail. The numbers will get your attention. Good luck and go get yourself a new to you watch[s}.

[karmatp]

Your head is definitely in the right place buying the watch not the name on the dial like most around these parts. Personally, I love my speedy pro. I can’t wait to wear it and the fact that you can wear it on the bracelet or strap make it so versatile. The ONLY downside is it’s water resistance. I wear something else if I might get it wet.

Maybe buy the speedy and pick up a cheap Seiko turtle for water stuff. You can also get a Seamaster and not worry about anything.

[Fat_ninja]

May I suggest a explorer 1 used
Reference number 114270. Sublime dynamic and a tool watch

[vman]

Tudor or GS.

First, do not kid yourself. You won't be diving, hiking or doing any sporty stuff that you see in watch ads with your new watch. All of that is nothing but marketing that you should disregard now. There are watches for sports activities, like Seiko, that are really good and cheap. For diving, you'll be better off with a proper computer and a Seiko as a backup. And, frankly, as a newly certified diver, you'll be limited by air more than anything.

Tudor will fit your bill well. Pre-loved pieces are quite affordable and the sports models are robust.

GS is super but definitely not for heartbeat raising activities. GS polished areas will catch scratches nicely.

There are other choices but they depend on whether you are in the "investor" or "lover" camp. Those of us who love to wear whatever they want, may point you to Bremont, some discountinued models by JLC (e.g., Master Compressor line). Doxa. Omega Seamaster line is quite solid despite many people who say otherwise.

[Saaci]

I saw a guy wearing the BB58 on canvas on the bus the other day and it looked amazing. I think that is the way to go.


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[steeevvvooo]

Tudor pelagos perhaps given your dive qualification? It has a real real tool watch vibe especially in black.

That said I own a speedy (hesalite solid case back) and a snowflake sbga011 ("Seiko" dial rather than Grand Seiko). Both are under the radar non flashy watches that to me are very WIS and make me feel good when on the wrist. They would be a great addition to any collection.

Take your time and enjoy the search. All your options are attainable with a little hunting (no waitlist shenanigans) so don't be tempted into a rash decision if you see something that might look a couple of hundred $$ cheap.

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[dannyboy2233]

Thanks for the insight, all. I'm now a little more ambivalent about the Speedy, since it seems like people here/on other forums are untrusting of its pushers and its moderate water resistance.

I like the Tudor options, but many Tudor watches have ETA movements (except BB58, Ranger, and maybe a couple others?), and I refuse to pay that much for a stock movement. Call me short-sighted, but if I'm spending that much on a watch I want the movement to be something special. The BB58 isn't bad...

I see a lot of recommendations for the Seamaster 300M, but I just can't say the watch excites me as much as others. Frankly, the watch I'm most excited about is a Rolex Explorer I (214270) w/ lumed numerals, as I love the design and the history of the piece. But I'm still unsure I want to wear a Rolex, haha.

Oh, and in response to @vman, I do plan on wearing this watch hiking, running, swimming, etc. Or at least I would like to.

Thanks for the thoughtful suggestions, keep em coming!

[BigAppleBill]

Explorer I. You can do all the activities you want with it because it’s a genuine tool watch. And it manages to look quite good when it’s worn with a suit. Checks all the boxes as a “one watch.”

[sambb]

39mm exp 1 214270

[JR16]

Originally Posted by dannyboy2233

Thanks for the insight, all. I'm now a little more ambivalent about the Speedy, since it seems like people here/on other forums are untrusting of its pushers and its moderate water resistance.

I like the Tudor options, but many Tudor watches have ETA movements (except BB58, Ranger, and maybe a couple others?), and I refuse to pay that much for a stock movement. Call me short-sighted, but if I'm spending that much on a watch I want the movement to be something special. The BB58 isn't bad...

I see a lot of recommendations for the Seamaster 300M, but I just can't say the watch excites me as much as others. Frankly, the watch I'm most excited about is a Rolex Explorer I (214270) w/ lumed numerals, as I love the design and the history of the piece. But I'm still unsure I want to wear a Rolex, haha.

Oh, and in response to @vman, I do plan on wearing this watch hiking, running, swimming, etc. Or at least I would like to.

Thanks for the thoughtful suggestions, keep em coming!

FYI the bb58, black bay black, black bay burgundy, black bay blue, black bay steel, and the entire pelagos line all have in house movements . The ETA movements are no more for these models, though there still may be some unsold old ones hanging out in an AD case here and there.




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[mongrelnomoad]

I said Speedy, and I stand by it (swimming should be fine as long as it’s serviced), but the Explorer I is a great watch too, and relatively under the radar for Rolex.

[Chewbacca]

Agree with others on the wr criteria.

Why not look again at the bb chrono or thc chrono? The movement issue is bs as they’re not standard ETA. They’re heavily modified eta or Breitling modules and many prestige brands use them as base movements in $10k + models.

There’s also many low bling Breitlings and Sinn EZM and even Oris Aquis.

With aota, you get 100m plus wr and heritage. In some cases cheaper than a omega speedy.

Go shopping!

[kearez]

I know you ruled out Rolex, but try a older explorer 1, or try and oyster perpetual, they are not as flashy as you think.

[brandrea]

Originally Posted by Fat_ninja

May I suggest a explorer 1 used
Reference number 114270. Sublime dynamic and a tool watch

This ^^^

[KBM]

Having read your OP, the replies and your further response, I have to say Explorer I, 214270.

99% of people will *never* notice it, and it sounds like, if it weren't for the possible recognition and brand image, that's the one you'd want the most.

I was lucky enough to actually win this watch in a TRF giveaway, if you can believe that. It's a great piece.

[ashbaug2]

Go with the Explorer 1. I'm 36 and rock a GMT Master. Age is nothing, it's about confidence. And no one notices it.

Although, the Pelagos is about as Tool-y as they get, and I believe all of Tudors pieces have in-house movements now.

Also check out some other Grand Seikos. The Snowflake is cool, beautiful dial, but it's more dressy than tooly, I think. They make some really nice Spring Drive divers that can be had for good prices second hand. And Seiko lume is second to none. Their Spring Drive GMT SBGE201 is extremely functional and wears a bit smaller than the 44mm size suggests. Their SBGA229 diver is also very nice, and I think GS ranks up near the top of quality-for-price within your budget.

[dannyboy2233]

Originally Posted by kauebm

Having read your OP, the replies and your further response, I have to say Explorer I, 214270.

99% of people will *never* notice it, and it sounds like, if it weren't for the possible recognition and brand image, that's the one you'd want the most.

I was lucky enough to actually win this watch in a TRF giveaway, if you can believe that. It's a great piece.

wow, what a beautiful shot! i think my heart has been telling me 214270 this whole time, and i'm encouraged by all the positive feedback. downside is, i can't find a single AD on the west coast that has one in stock for me to try on even if i did want to purchase it. anyone know where/how i could take a look at one? i'd be fine buying grey market/online, but i'd really like to try one on in person first.

thanks again for all the help!

[KBM]

Look up some grey dealers in your area, they should have stock that you can try on.

[giorgio.a]

Originally Posted by kauebm

Having read your OP, the replies and your further response, I have to say Explorer I, 214270.

99% of people will *never* notice it, and it sounds like, if it weren't for the possible recognition and brand image, that's the one you'd want the most.

I was lucky enough to actually win this watch in a TRF giveaway, if you can believe that. It's a great piece.

I’d agree with this - it’s pretty much under the radar.


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[the_natural]

Explorer is a great watch, I had one for about a year and a half (current version). I wouldn't buy it again, but would consider an OP 39 or (more likely) a Tudor BB36 or BB58. Tudor has some great value these days, Rolex just isn't worth it (esp given all the nonsense).

Had a Speedmaster, and they're great, but they're huge and heavy (imo). And mine ran like a top after a fairly recent service, which was awesome, but I def had a pusher problem, and I wouldn't ever wear it in the water.

My two cents.

[Saaci]

I’m a big fan of my BB36, especially on a bulang and sons leather strap



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[Joeguy]

Explorer.

I had the same concerns about what people might think if I were wearing a Rolex.

This is a real issue despite what some might say. I know of several professions where to achieve success in the arena you have to build rapport with people across a broad socio-economic and cultural spectrum.

The good news is almost no one will notice your watch. I’m not making this up. If they do notice it eventually, it will be a non issue by then.

Do yourself a favor and get the watch you really want ... Explorer.


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