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Old 20 September 2021, 12:28 PM   #1
Partpr
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Dress watch suggestions

I’m struggling. I’m really trying to find a leather strapped dress with that I just love. I have my share of Rolex sport watches and a VC Overseas that I really like and I like the leather strap on it. Other issue is that I have mainly black watches with the exception of the Overseas.

I have looked at the Lange Grand One and a couple of JLC watches (Duometre and Master Control series), but am certainly open to suggestions. I need the watch to be at least 40mm as I have an 8.25 inch wrist.

I’m open and looking for suggestions of things you love.

Thanks in advance,
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Old 20 September 2021, 12:58 PM   #2
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Hermès Arceau L’Heure De La Lune, 5172g, Lange double split, Lange dato, zeitwerk, moser perpetual moonphase, journe optimum, AP code, 5070j are some that I like or come to mind.
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Old 21 September 2021, 06:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Partpr View Post
I’m struggling. I’m really trying to find a leather strapped dress with that I just love. I have my share of Rolex sport watches and a VC Overseas that I really like and I like the leather strap on it. Other issue is that I have mainly black watches with the exception of the Overseas.

I have looked at the Lange Grand One and a couple of JLC watches (Duometre and Master Control series), but am certainly open to suggestions. I need the watch to be at least 40mm as I have an 8.25 inch wrist.

I’m open and looking for suggestions of things you love.

Thanks in advance,


There are some design cues that have come to be understood for a classic dress watch (mostly carried over from the pocket watches of old).

Plain white/cream/champagne dial, 2 handed, no date or other complications, precious metal (or covered in), slim profile to fit under the jacket/shirt sleeve, leather and buckle arrangement (usually) and such.

Examples: VC Patrimony, PP Calatrava, ALS Saxonia, Breguet Classique et al.

That said these days, the definition of a dress watch varies from gem studded pieces to high complication pieces. So go with what you like!




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Old 21 September 2021, 11:51 AM   #4
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VC makes several Patrimony options in 42mm, I believe.
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Old 21 September 2021, 01:17 PM   #5
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For a simple dress watch I'd look at Breguet and the Vacheron Patrimony if you have larger wrists. For slightly smaller options, I'd look at Lange and the new Patek Calatrava handwind, which wear larger than their size would suggest.
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Old 22 September 2021, 11:47 AM   #6
Partpr
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Originally Posted by alpharulez View Post
There are some design cues that have come to be understood for a classic dress watch (mostly carried over from the pocket watches of old).

Plain white/cream/champagne dial, 2 handed, no date or other complications, precious metal (or covered in), slim profile to fit under the jacket/shirt sleeve, leather and buckle arrangement (usually) and such.

Examples: VC Patrimony, PP Calatrava, ALS Saxonia, Breguet Classique et al.

That said these days, the definition of a dress watch varies from gem studded pieces to high complication pieces. So go with what you like!




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So that may be the issue…I don’t like the simple face. I know it is the classic look, but maybe the issue is that I don’t wear dress watch only enough. I should have said leather band watch that I can wear with a suit!
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Old 22 September 2021, 02:31 PM   #7
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Old 22 September 2021, 03:52 PM   #8
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You may consider looking at Glashütte Original. Their watches tend to be on the bigger side of dress watches with interesting complications and fantastic finishing.
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Old 23 September 2021, 05:53 AM   #9
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If you want to be a bit more adventurous and try one of the independents, id have a look at Czapek Quai des Bergues. Very limited production, hand wound 7 day power reserve and 42mm case which would fit you well.




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Old 23 September 2021, 08:36 AM   #10
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I would strongly consider an IWC Portugieser Automatic. You own a lot of sport watches with black dials. The IWC would give you sports watch size (42mm) with a nice opaline/white dial. You can get the watch with an opaline/white dial with either gold, silver, or blue hands. I have the blue handed version. It comes on a nice croc strap as well. It has a 7 day power reserve and symmetric look to it. It’s a great dress watch for people who like sport watches. It’s also an icon in the IWC lineup and is considered a classic.
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Old 23 September 2021, 08:54 AM   #11
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So that may be the issue…I don’t like the simple face. I know it is the classic look, but maybe the issue is that I don’t wear dress watch only enough. I should have said leather band watch that I can wear with a suit!

Ahh ok.

Since this is a Rolex forum how about the Cellini range? The one with the Moonphase looks very nice.


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Old 23 September 2021, 10:07 AM   #12
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Here are my dress watches:




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Old 23 September 2021, 10:49 AM   #13
Theothergreg
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My three dress watches.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ALS.jpg (241.4 KB, 175 views)
File Type: jpg FPJ.jpg (224.6 KB, 179 views)
File Type: jpg MBF.jpg (199.0 KB, 178 views)
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Old 23 September 2021, 12:20 PM   #14
Partpr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrunoMalik View Post
If you want to be a bit more adventurous and try one of the independents, id have a look at Czapek Quai des Bergues. Very limited production, hand wound 7 day power reserve and 42mm case which would fit you well.




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They aren’t taking orders currently are they?
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Old 23 September 2021, 12:21 PM   #15
Partpr
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Originally Posted by Ravager135 View Post
I would strongly consider an IWC Portugieser Automatic. You own a lot of sport watches with black dials. The IWC would give you sports watch size (42mm) with a nice opaline/white dial. You can get the watch with an opaline/white dial with either gold, silver, or blue hands. I have the blue handed version. It comes on a nice croc strap as well. It has a 7 day power reserve and symmetric look to it. It’s a great dress watch for people who like sport watches. It’s also an icon in the IWC lineup and is considered a classic.
I have really tried to find an IWC really liked. This is certainly an option...I need to revisit this
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Old 23 September 2021, 02:14 PM   #16
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I love all of these random recommendations, clearly by those who did not read the OP.

"At least 40mm"

I'd suggest VC Patrimony or Breguet Classique for 40mm or more. Something more sporty on leather - Master Control.

Personally I love the 5196 (don't own it yet, tried the three gold pieces) but my wrist is 6.5"
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Old 23 September 2021, 08:10 PM   #17
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I have really tried to find an IWC really liked. This is certainly an option...I need to revisit this
With your wrist size I'd take a hard look at the 42mm Jubilee Portugieser 5441. It came in SS, RG, and PT and is a classic from IWC's best decade IMO.

Only reason I never got one is that my wrist size is only 6.6".
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Old 24 September 2021, 03:05 AM   #18
jd57
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There are a lot of Lange options. The Richard Lange central seconds watches are 40.5mm and wear large (and are a classic dress watch). The 1815 small seconds models used to come in a 40mm size, which are available pre-owned. The datograph is 41mm - not a dress watch, more of a dress (or everyday) chrono. Grand Lange 1 you have mentioned at 40.9mm. At a somewhat lower price the GP 1966 series includes some 40 and 41mm pieces that are quite nice.
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