Help ID OP Air King

[UpstateMD]

I have my father's old Oyster Perpetual Air King. Don't know much about it, except I thought it would have been from the 1950s-1960s era.

Anyway, it has Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King on the dial. But the word 'Precision' is not on the dial. Also, the dial has different marks compared to any other picture I've seen on the internet of similar watches. 12 is the crown, with long/linear arrows at 3,6,9, and small triangles at the other numbers. There is a crown on the winder/knob. The areas of the timepiece where the serial number might be (where the bands connect): on one side I can see 'stainless steel' imprinted. On the other side it says: "registered design'. Don't see any actual numbers imprinted.

I've included images. Any help would be very appreciated. I do plan on getting the watch restored.

[offrdmania]

Hello,

I woud love to help but im not going to open a ZIP file from a brand new member. You can attach your pictures in the post or paste a link from a hosting site.

[Styles Bitchley]

Here’s one of them…

[UpstateMD]

Originally Posted by offrdmania

Hello,

I woud love to help but im not going to open a ZIP file from a brand new member. You can attach your pictures in the post or paste a link from a hosting site.

Tried to attach each individual image and I received a prompt that the images were too big and I would need to resize. I tried to submit a link via a picture hosting site (which I've never done before), and then this site wouldn't allow that because it said I need to have 10 posts before I post a link.

I assure you there is nothing harmful in the Zip file. Thanks.

[offrdmania]

That dial is from the mid to late 50s. Looks like some heavy water damage. You will want to open the case back OP and see what kind of damage there is to the movement.

The bracelet has solid end links which is not correct. We need many more pictures.

[UpstateMD]

Originally Posted by offrdmania

That dial is from the mid to late 50s. Looks like some heavy water damage. You will want to open the case back OP and see what kind of damage there is to the movement.

The bracelet has solid end links which is not correct. We need many more pictures.

There are 6 pictures in the zip file. Yes, I think the band is not original, just the timepiece itself. There are no Rolex markings on the clasp. What other views would be helpful other than the 6? I don't feel comfortable removing the back at home.

[UpstateMD]

Originally Posted by UpstateMD

I have my father's old Oyster Perpetual Air King. Don't know much about it, except I thought it would have been from the 1950s-1960s era.

Anyway, it has Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air King on the dial. But the word 'Precision' is not on the dial. Also, the dial has different marks compared to any other picture I've seen on the internet of similar watches. 12 is the crown, with long/linear arrows at 3,6,9, and small triangles at the other numbers. There is a crown on the winder/knob. The areas of the timepiece where the serial number might be (where the bands connect): on one side I can see 'stainless steel' imprinted. On the other side it says: "registered design'. Don't see any actual numbers imprinted.

I've included images. Any help would be very appreciated. I do plan on getting the watch restored.

I've actually finally found some similar examples of the dial after searching all day. Haha. The first one has the words 'super precision' at the bottom of the dial, which mine does NOT. But it has similar arrows/triangles markers. The other has a yellowish petina color, and essentially the same dial -- NO 'precision' at the bottom. Arrows/Triangles markers.

[Stan Cooper]

This Air King advertised as a 1958 Ref 5500 with Tropical Dial was sold by HQ Milton. Movement is a 1530.

[UpstateMD]

Originally Posted by Stan Cooper

This Air King advertised as a 1958 Ref 5500 with Tropical Dial was sold by... Movement is a 1530.

Since my watch does not have the 'precision' at the bottom of the dial, this tropical dial is the closest I've found. Do you think its a 1950s 5500 model with a tropical dial?? Is there a way to know the exact year of production?

The dial on my watch does have this "discoloration" appearance to it, but I can't tell if that is water damage like a previous poster said, vs the original 'tropical' color fading away, vs just some 'smudging' that can hopefully be cleaned at the jewelry store I'm going to take it to and try to restore it.

[Stan Cooper]

Originally Posted by UpstateMD

Do you think its a 1950s 5500 model with a tropical dial?? Is there a way to know the exact year of production?

If you go to the H.Q. Milton link I provided in my post, you'll find numerous photos of the watch and a description which says the serial number is 370,xxx. This dates the watch to 1958 according to published serial number charts. Unfortunately, Rolex doesn't reveal actual serial number dates of manufacture; the online tables are based on best guesses using known dates of manufacture for certain serial numbers.

For many years, Rolex stamped the quarter of the year in Roman numerals on the inside of the case back. This one is stamped "II 1958", so if the case back is original to the watch, it was produced in the second quarter of 1958. Sadly, the company no longer does this and has gone to random serial numbers which aren't related to the manufacturing date, further clouding the date the watches are made.

Interestingly, this watch has "J.F.K. Jr 1963" engraved on the case back, but H.Q. Milton doesn't show any provenance, so anyone could have had that engraved.

[Styles Bitchley]

Originally Posted by UpstateMD

Since my watch does not have the 'precision' at the bottom of the dial, this tropical dial is the closest I've found. Do you think its a 1950s 5500 model with a tropical dial?? Is there a way to know the exact year of production?



The dial on my watch does have this "discoloration" appearance to it, but I can't tell if that is water damage like a previous poster said, vs the original 'tropical' color fading away, vs just some 'smudging' that can hopefully be cleaned at the jewelry store I'm going to take it to and try to restore it.

If this is a family heirloom you’re looking to restore, spend some time learning more about the watch and don’t take it to your local jewelry shop for work.

It does look like water damage and that could mean it needs a lot of mechanical and cosmetic work - possibly more than the watch is worth. But it’s your dad’s Rolex and there’s only one of those (I’m guessing).

[UpstateMD]

Originally Posted by Styles Bitchley

If this is a family heirloom you’re looking to restore, spend some time learning more about the watch and don’t take it to your local jewelry shop for work.

It does look like water damage and that could mean it needs a lot of mechanical and cosmetic work - possibly more than the watch is worth. But it’s your dad’s Rolex and there’s only one of those (I’m guessing).

Sorry for the ignorance in this question -- but yes the goal is to learn more about the watch. No plans for re-sale given the sentimental value, but did want it restored so I might wear it at some point. To truly learn more, I'm sure the caseback needs to be removed. But I don't want to do that on my own, further risking damage to the movements. I was planning on taking to jewelry store to remove the caseback and also try to clean/restore. Is there some other place I should take it?

Also, I finally figured out how to resize, so I'm going to post a few other pictures to the thread instead of needing to open that zip file.

[Stan Cooper]

Checking CW21 certified watchmakers near you, it appears there is one, Steve Pace, in Greenville at Pace Jewelers, Inc.

I have no personal knowledge of Steve Pace, but I'd take that watch to someone with CW21 watchmaker certification rather than a random jeweler. He'll have the expertise to remove the case back without damaging anything and inspect the movement for obvious damage.

[Styles Bitchley]

You can start your research by removing that aftermarket bracelet and leaving it off. The end links of an incorrect bracelet can damage the area underneath where you will find a serial and reference numbers. It’s easy to remove the bracelet with just a toothpick in the lug hole. Check YouTube if you’re unsure. The serial will help you get a ballpark manufacture year.