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#1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Francisco, CA
Watch: this space
Posts: 1,867
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School me on quality leather straps
Last week I purchased a strap from WatchGecko for $20 shipped and it looks identical to a $100 one on the W&W shop or $150 on the Hodinkee online store (both natural leather, not shell cordovan). The strap I got has "Horween Leather" stamped on.
How does one distinguish good quality leather from lesser quality leather, in the absence of any stampings on the leather itself? What goes into a strap that makes, for example, a B&S strap so much more expensive than a strap from individual sellers here on TRF? Outside of marketing and custom designs, what goes into a generic leather strap that would justify paying more for one over another?
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#2 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Miami, FL
Watch: Tudor & Cartier
Posts: 2,499
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Craftsmanship. Being hand-made (i.e. actually by hand). I like the bulandandsons ones
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"Chi ha paura muore ogni giorno, chi non ha paura muore una volta sola" - Paolo Borsellino |
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#3 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Europe
Posts: 5,644
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There is so much in the material for one. Leather comes in all sorts of grades which will affect the grain, how well it takes colour, suppleness and longevity.
The craftsmanship, how well the edges are finished, is the stitching even, has the leather been skimmed down at one edge to improve fit. There are of course exotic leathers which also have a price impact. The best leather strap I've seen have come from Santoni who primarily make shoes. Each strap (alligator ones at least anyway) is hand 'painted' to give it a perfect effect.
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“My tastes are simple; I am easily satisfied with the best.” ― Winston S. Churchill |
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#4 |
2025 TitaniumYM Pledge Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Tampa
Watch: SD4K
Posts: 2,675
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Subscribed!
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Sea-Dweller 116600 - the manly one GMT II 16710 - the manly one Daytona 116500 - the manly-womanly one Yacht-Master 268622 - the chick version Speedy Mitsukoshi <3 Tag Heuer Aquaracer WAF141C.BA0824 - the chick version Thank you logan5tx!!! Have to link it. Too long for the signature. https://www.rolexforums.com/showpost...0&postcount=14 |
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#5 |
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2018
Real Name: Jon
Location: Reno, NV
Watch: 126710 BLRO
Posts: 1,027
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FWIW, I bought two of the Worn and Wound straps: a Model 1 in dark brown (Color 8, I think it's called?) and a Model 2 in a different dark brown. The Model 2 is soft right out of the box and has resisted the stretch marks that often come when a leather band is breaking in. The Model 1, while more expensive, is frustratingly stiff, difficult to get on the buckle (due to its non-tapered design), and the waxed edge started stripping off within a month, showing the nature color of the leather. Not impressed.
I'm pretty uninformed with leather, though, as I usually like NATO straps. I guess my thought has always been "you get what you pay for." But I think I proved myself wrong with that by the two W&W straps I bought. |
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#6 |
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Cloud 7
Posts: 35
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Best quality and longevity you can get is double alligator.
F.P. Journe and Montblanc are using them unlike most luxury houses like PP, Lange, Blancpain, etc. - they use calf skin for underside to lower cost. This also compromises the longevity. Factually all leather straps are stiched with hand guided machine, just like every clothes - “hand made” is just a marketing term which the watch industry makes excessive use of. It’s totally unimportant if the leather comes from Italy - Italian leather is nothing special nor better or worse than from anywhere else. B&S is mostly good marketing, equal to other quality strap makers, just for a more premium price for customers who want premium prices. |
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#7 |
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2017
Real Name: Bradley
Location: Virginia
Watch: Speedy Reduced
Posts: 727
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I have several brands of leather and I can tell a difference in some more then others. The quality of the leather and stitching are the easiest ways to tell quality. You can tell a hand stitch over a machine stitch. Sure, you pay more for someone to actually make your strap but that’s how it is, and I understand. While I don’t think some straps are worth the upgrade (worn & wound and Hodinkee are both overrated imo) some are. Bulang is good, Bas & Lokes is amazing and actually Colareb and Hirsch are good for the price
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#8 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Francisco, CA
Watch: this space
Posts: 1,867
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Quote:
Hmm, how do you tell a hand stitch from a machine stitch? And why is hand stitch seemingly preferred? I assume a machine would do the job better... (can get stitching lined up perfectly straight, can pierce through thicker leather more easily etc.)
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#9 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Real Name: Capt Swerve
Location: North Carolina
Watch: less TV
Posts: 2,230
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Go for cordovan straps. Unless you're spending > 300 USD, don't worry too much about the stitching, most reputable makers will be in the same space.
Checkout these guys: https://www.camillefournet.com/
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Collector and buyer of Lange, VC, Patek | 2 FA Enabled |
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#10 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: N/A
Watch: AP, VC, Breguet
Posts: 1,581
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Quote:
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#11 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: aroundtheworld
Watch: SS Daytona - BLACK
Posts: 2,262
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i'd check out Aaron Bespoke. His stuff looks amazing.
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#12 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Colorado Springs
Watch: Seiko's
Posts: 2,556
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Check out 922leather
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#13 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: NY, USA
Posts: 130
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I'm a big fan of Hirsch. They make great quality stuff at reasonable prices.
Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk |
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#14 |
2024 Pledge Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: U.S./Vienna, AT
Posts: 1,967
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Cordovan for sure. It may not help you as Santoni makes straps for IWC, but Santoni is in a completely different league than any other leather strap I have ever seen. I have IWC Portugieser with black Santoni, I also have a Santoni shoes and they speak for themself.
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#15 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Real Name: Steve
Location: Maine
Watch: Explorer II 16570
Posts: 1,396
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I've heard many great things about Dangerous9 straps made by John Glance, and have two hand-made Swiss ammo straps on order. I have a Hirsch waterproof alligator strap that I often use, and can recommend that brand.
I have a few cheaper leather straps (< $100USD) that I'll rotate in/out, and the bottom line IMO is there is a distinct difference between the cheaper commercially-made straps and the more expensive ones in terms of craftsmanship/detail and longevity. |
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#16 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 11
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i've bought a strap from bulang and sons and can confirm quality and service is great
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#17 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Real Name: Steven
Location: Glocal
Posts: 21,689
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If just cow leather, it's in the prep and have $50 and $300 straps and, frankly, not that much of a difference to justify the added costs if well-chosen. Thailand and other places make some impressive straps.
If you're talking very exotic leather types is where cost/quality can vary quite a bit, yet more $$$ is not ALWAYS better. Yes higher-end $300+ French or Swiss made strap means a minimum very good quality, or more attention to detail of matching the exotic leather strap's natural pattern... yet for $100-$150 you may find the same handcrafted quality and detail to matching things up (and dare we admit far more exotic leather types) from Thailand, Vietnam, etc. jmho Again, if it's 'just' cow leather i'd go with whatever seems really nice and $50 is usually fine. NOTE that i give ALL leathers (watch bands, car interiors, leather jackets, etc) a treatment of Leatherique. Vintage Rolls Royce restoration guys love the stuff too! It keeps the leather 'lubed' and soft-supple. Adds to the logitivy / life of the material. Again, jmho
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__________________ Love timepieces and want to become a Watchmaker? Rolex has a sensational school. www.RolexWatchmakingTrainingCenter.com/ Sent from my Etch A Sketch using String Theory. |
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#18 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Brian
Location: Northern Virginia
Watch: One of Not Many
Posts: 17,892
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IWC Portugieser 7 Day, Omega Seamaster SMP300m, Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar, Glashutte PanoInverse, Glashutte SeaQ Panorama Date, Omega Aqua Terra 150, Omega CK 859, Omega Speedmaster 3861 Moonwatch, Breitling Superocean Steelfish, JLC Atmos Transparent Clock |
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#19 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: London
Posts: 635
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I used Delugs. Slow delivery though
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#20 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MN
Watch: OP36 Blue 3-6-9
Posts: 2,195
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I have bought from Martu Leather in the past and Andrea does a really nice job. She's in Central America and she hand makes everything and then includes a nice hand written card explaining what you received. Her prices are great.
Martuleather.com Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk |
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#21 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 55
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His stuff IS amazing. I've purchased three straps, a belt, and a wallet from him — all top-notch. When you compare his prices/quality with what you'd get from other "bespoke" makers, I don't know how the others justify their pricing.
Aaron Bespoke/Combat Straps (same company) is fantastic. |
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#22 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Real Name: Steven
Location: Glocal
Posts: 21,689
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https://www.aaronbespoke.com/artists
https://www.martuleather.com Gave a quick look at both, great straps! Bookmarked, love TRF and thx guys! ![]()
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__________________ Love timepieces and want to become a Watchmaker? Rolex has a sensational school. www.RolexWatchmakingTrainingCenter.com/ Sent from my Etch A Sketch using String Theory. |
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