50 year review: 1968 1603 DateJust

[Richard Carver]

1968: The Tet offensive was launched and became the defining event of the Vietnam war. The Chicago riots during the Democratic National Convention showed a country in turmoil and change and in peaceful Switzerland a passionate company of perfectionists produced one of their humblest offerings; this 1603 all steel DateJust.

The 60s and 70s are the most meaningful decades of Rolex for me. These are the years before the quartz revolution and the last years mechanical watches actually mattered. They had achieved the pinnacle of development in cases, movements and models for the times. Never before or since has Rolex been so focused in purpose and function. Mighty PanAm partnered with Rolex to provide precision dual time GMT Masters to pilots, engineers and navigators. Tudor subs graced the wrists of US Navy Seals on harrowing adventures in the muddy waters of Vietnam. COMEX and British MoD trusted Rolex with the lives of their men and the French Marine Nationale relationship with Rolex and Tudor ran from the 50s to the 80s. If lives were at stake Rolex was usually the choice.

So where does our decidedly unwarlike DJ fit into these seminal decades? It and it's DJ brethren were the watches actually creating what became the Rolex legend. They were sold in their millions to men and women whose requirements dictated spending hundreds of dollars on a watch instead of a few bucks on a Timex that could be thrown away and replaced every year. Doctors, nurses, active people whose lifestyles destroyed ordinary watches turned to Rolex out of necessity. Rolex wasn't the semi-religious object it is today, people bought it because of what it could do, not what it was. Rolex had the best advertising available in those decades Everyone knew someone who's uncle Joe had a Rolex on a drilling rig for 10 years or that nurse who gets every disgusting thing a human body can produce on her Rolex everyday and it looks great. The people who owned them were the best salesmen Rolex ever had at a time Rolex was not the overweening behemoth it is today.

The DateJust did it all, it could dive to 165 feet, wash off after an unfortunate diaper change and be elegant in the boardroom all in the same day. People wanted versatility and a watch that could handle what their lives had to offer. Back in those days there was a particular feeling you got when strapping on your first Rolex. Before, you had to always be aware of your watch, take it off to wash your hands, take it off to do something physical, no longer. You had a watch that you could actually forget about. That was a big deal to millions raised on Timex. No Rolex owner ever forgot his first swim with it. :)





Let's get to the star of this show. The 1603 was the most inexpensive of the DateJust models. It is all steel including the engine turned bezel. I believe this watch retailed for 235 dollars in 1968, if someone has more accurate information I'd appreciate it. This watch has come to today in fairly original condition. The serial number indicates manufacture in 1968 but the bracelet is dated 1970 which is consistent with how Rolex were sold then. Rolex sometimes sat around the dealers for years before being sold and bracelets were added at the time of sale. It was simple economics for the dealer, why add a bracelet to a watch in the safe until it was required? Of course, the display watches had bracelets but the ones in the back did not. Also, any Rolex could be purchased on a strap as well.



This watch is in remarkable condition and obviously well cared for over it's long life. The dial is a bit unusual in the coloration of it's gold markers, hands, print and date wheel. The color is quite subtle compared to the bolder gold found on two tone and all gold DJs. It is not a gilt dial but nice to have compared to the usual black with white lettering. The condition of the movement will make any vintage guy smile, it is pristine. It was last serviced in 2015 and every screw looks like it just left the factory, not a single mark. the plate and rotor are perfect. People say an unfinished Rolex movement is ugly and unworthy of a glass case back but to me it is beautiful in it's purposefulness. As always, it was the very best Rolex could make and that is something to see. :)


There's a small joy in having a single malt and watching the balance dance on it's tiny stage as the glow of the lamp lights it. Too much? Never enough I say! :)

Yes, it's been polished but nothing you wouldn't expect on a 50 year old watch. I see a vintage Rolex as it is, not some 50 year old ideal that no longer exists. The case is completely corrosion free and the bracelet is suitably loose and silky. I have other watches but this one has become my daily along with my '91 16570 polar. I'm sure a million sports boys will disagree but until you understand the DJ, you don't understand vintage Rolex.

[rootbeer7]

Great post and a legend of a watch.

[Dan S]

That's a real classic and a great write-up. I have a silver-dial ref 1603 with a 2,411,xxx serial, so I suppose that's a couple of years later. The engine-turned bezel is my personal favorite DJ.

[Dr.Smellody]

Entertaining. Thanks.

[Jsol]

The very essence of iconic and yet so under appreciated. Great post.

[Phrank]

What a great read...thanks!

[crowncollection]

Totally Agree Richard grwatvpost


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sensui]

Truly iconic indeed. Thanks for sharing.

[STEELINOX]

Like a present "left, still under the tree" - now opened with a smile, thank you ~ !

[jdmi32]

Wonderful! This is the kind of stuff that keeps me coming back here.

I have a 1600 from around 1969 and it feels perfect every time I put it on my wrist.

[mineral]

Totally agreed and my 1601 datejust never fail me and I had great time with this piece




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[lhanddds]

Great write-up Richard. The all SS Datejust was my very first Rolex. I did everything in it and finally wore the jubillee out.

[yannis]

Great review and one of the longest ever i guess.

[brandrea]

What a great review Richard

Thank you for posting this, you made my day

[roadie1]

I love it! Great review and made me smile.....uh chuckle:)

[Jwtownse]

Thank you! It’s nice to see and ode to a Datejust. Hopefully I can write one about my ‘89 16234 in 20 years!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[77T]

I thoroughly enjoyed the read - lived through the same times - but wearing this Omega from my parents.



Now it has served me well for over 50 years and still does. Wore it to Midnight Mass just days ago.

But I do appreciate the classic lines of a DJ - and though mine is younger - it shares the same visual features.



Thanks for creating a great thread.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[TheGRman]

Fantastic write up and photos! Thanks for reminding us what a great watch a vintage DJ is. I wear my late 70's TT DJ 16013 constantly, and everything you wrote is spot on. Thanks again!

[datejust24]

Awesome review and thanks for sharing. I too have always loved the classic style of the DJ specifically these vintage gems...just picked up an absolutely gorgeous super full set from ‘68 and I’m over the moon with it !!!

[Richard Carver]

Thank you all for your very kind responses...did I ever tell you about my M. Mouse project? :)

[STEELINOX]

Originally Posted by Richard Carver

Thank you all for your very kind responses...did I ever tell you about my M. Mouse project? :)

And, no, you did not...

[djc918@me.com]

Awesome article it helped me really understand my watch and it’s history

[Dan S]

Almost time for a 55th anniversary update.

[TimeLord2]

Really enjoyed that! Thanks for sharing.

[hirsca]

Great thread. Very informative. A little bit off topic, but I have a 14K 1503 Date with matching Jubilee bracelet. S/N 1528xxx circa 1966. Classic elegance. Eventually when I get the required number of posts, I'll post pictures of it and my circa 1984 16750 Pepsi. Can you figure out that I am also vintage? Thanks, Al

[Old Expat Beast]

My 1603 was sold on the Torrejon USAF Base in Spain in 1968. There's no price on the paperwork but this is basically what the OP's watch would probably have come with, plus an outer box. (The airmail letter is 1970s from the RSC).

The original owner had a quite an interesting military career, which I followed around Europe and the US with the help of Google.

I bought it from a Florida dealer about ten years ago.

[onetwo127]

Nice! Thanks for sharing.

[GMT Aviator]

Great post and you nailed it.

The Datejust does it all. A timeless classic.

[mij86]

Interesting,thank you, also lovely watch