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30 January 2025, 11:42 AM | #1 |
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Looking for a little help…..lugs too polished? Dial check?
Just looking for some feedback on this. I’m waiting on better pictures, but I thought I’d post these before I even move forward with more pictures.
Any help is always appreciated! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro |
30 January 2025, 12:34 PM | #2 |
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Surely it's been hit with the wheel pretty hard on the 5 o'clock lug to pucker the hole. The other one doesn't have that treatment. You'd need every lug photo'd.
The dial is pristine - it appears to be a service replacement as well as the hands. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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30 January 2025, 12:36 PM | #3 |
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Polished, yes. "Too polished?" That's your decision. Depends on the price and what kind of watch you're looking for. There's a buyer for almost every watch at the right price.
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30 January 2025, 05:37 PM | #4 |
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What’s the first 2 or 3 numbers of the serial as the bezel looks similar to a mk1?
Should verify the parts & movement are correct for the serial. Yes it has well polished case/bracelet and has a service crystal. Dial looks pretty nice; is there a UV shot? Not so sure about the pushers as they look a bit odd for some reason to me. If possible post clear photos of the movement. Good luck…
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30 January 2025, 10:33 PM | #5 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
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Yesterday, 12:48 AM | #6 | |
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Quote:
Note the wear/aging on the bezel, with those milky streaks/bubbles. That ain’t great, and replacing it would be crazy expensive. I actually think the case looks decent. The spacing of the lug hole to the edge is quite good. I think it was just poorly polished when it was done, leading to that lug-hole cratering. An expert vintage polish could sharpen up that case, and it’s already been polished, so why not. What’s the beginning of the serial number? Nice-looking 6263. |
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Yesterday, 02:10 AM | #7 | |
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I had also noticed one other element but didn't mention it. I noted the heavy paint on the red imprint but was unsure. By looking further it quelled that concern. The original dials did have a heavy imprint. Found this photo for the benefit of sharing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yesterday, 05:56 AM | #8 | |
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The OP’s watch looks similar to mine, although more of a sunburst silver finish on the dial. Mine was from a late-’70s batch that is more cream and less sunburst silver. |
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Yesterday, 07:40 AM | #9 | |
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Thank you. Additional pictures Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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Yesterday, 07:56 AM | #10 |
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Looks nice. Dial and hands are squeaky clean, which is the most important thing, of course. Other issues mentioned above (case and bezel) are simply because it’s an old watch, so it’s about your tolerance level. I’d ask for a UV photo of the dial/hands and a photo of the movement. And check the date stamp on the bracelet clasp. Always nice when that matches too. It’s about a year older than my 6263, which is a 605xxxx serial.
Pushers look original and it’s got a service crystal. If you buy it, you’d probably want to put a domed crystal back on there. Greatly improves the look, IMHO. Also, make sure you see the reference number too, not just the serial. Switching bezels is easy on these, so turning a 6265 into a 6263 is only a bezel away, but there’s quite a difference in price. Not an issue, presumably, with a reputable dealer, but always good to confirm the reference. Good luck. |
Yesterday, 08:19 AM | #11 |
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Lovely dial. Polished ofc... old piece, this.
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Yesterday, 07:49 PM | #12 |
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Looks ok to me, nicks on bezel notwithstanding.
There are at least 8 dial types subtly different (large/small eye, floating, Sigma B red..etc etc ..which I won't go into here), and two distinct types of original or a.k.a. 'big red' DAYTONA print. Broadly a thinner neater font in a more darker red and a thicker lighter blotchy brighter red - this is the latter. The case of the 37.5mm watches from the 6263/65 predecessor 6240 (the first OYSTER but - fun fact- dial v often not printed thus), right through to the final watch grew in size. While there was a creeping increase, I believe the biggest increase in case and lug size was around the time of 75/76. The reason for this I am told by a snr employee was that the thin final link 7205 and more commonly 7835 folded link suited the thinner lug width. Come 75/76 the 78350 was introduced and the last link (before the EL) is well over 30% thicker than a 7835 link, so the bracelet would have looked a bit undersized. Hence more metal being left on the mid-case. The ever-increasing continued after 75/76 too btw. Last points on the actual piece suggest you check the 727 and caseback and end links are correct (the correct end links are c £1000 ).
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Today, 02:42 AM | #13 |
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Cost me $130 installed at the NYC RSC for a new pair of 571 end links for my 6263, albeit several years ago. They also sold me a correct Rolex leather strap with curved ends that was an option for the 6263.
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Today, 03:10 AM | #14 |
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Indeed. But are they like 580's, which you can also still buy at an AD, but are are different stamp profile than original 580's ?
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Today, 06:09 AM | #15 | |
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Still, they’re both correct Rolex parts and I certainly wouldn’t spend crazy money just to get an old set. That’s where I’d draw the line obsessing over originality for a vintage Rolex. |
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Today, 10:45 AM | #16 |
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |
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