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#31 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Real Name: Alec
Location: Canada
Watch: Al Jazeera English
Posts: 596
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Cheap gas for me is inexpensive gas, not lower octane. Even if you have a (newer) car that requires the use of higher octane fuel, you can still use lower octane since the car's ecu/knock sensor will adjust timing to run on lower octane. BTW diesel is the highest octane you'll find at the pumps and it's also the least expensive.
As far as oil is concerned, for colder weather you could use a less viscous oil weight like 5w30 or 0w40. I always will drive within 30 seconds of start up in winter because an engine not under load will run rich (actually the fuel isn't completely combusted) and can wash down cylinder walls, reducing lubrication. An engine will warm up more quickly under load than idling. I use Canadian Tire Synthetic (just re-badged Mobil 1) for my truck and Motul for my track car. |
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#32 |
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: texas
Watch: GMT Master IIc
Posts: 545
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I change my oil every 6-9K, depending on my driving during that period, every 3k i just change the oil filter(i don't care what oil you use dirty oil will not hold up). I know enough to believe that RP is the best, but not enough to thoroughly explain it. I have personal experience with it as well. My 94 f150 had 200k and the crank looked brand new.
As far as synthetics go mobile one is good, but there are many others that are better for performance and protection. I believe amsoil or redline (possibly both) will void your warranty because it is not certified. RP has a patent on how they produce their oil. it is certified and lasts longer As far as high end car manufactuers using mobile one, There is always an upgrade from what the factory does. On a loaded bearing test Mobile one performs as well (a little better) as almost any other oil. I have seen it first hand. I know this is a horrible explination, But I urge you to try RP, take note of how your engine idles before and after the oil change, MPG, If you have access to a dyno or something to check HP do that. If you notice no change I will eat my words, I swear by this stuff. If you were to change the oil to RP I would change it again in 3k, then go every 6-9 depending on your driving |
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#33 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 868
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My Porsche 911 turbo and the Benz are not allowed me to set at less expensive gas
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#34 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Real Name: Eric
Location: Location,Location
Watch: this, bro...
Posts: 15,340
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at the moment I used between 95 or 98 octane unleaded.
Used to use 98 or above on my performance or modified cars, especially re-mapped turbo setup, that would have octane booster as well. |
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#35 |
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2009
Real Name: Rick
Location: At what TIME?!!!
Watch: the SKY tonite!
Posts: 3,225
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Engines have an optimum operating temperature. Blended oils, lower weighted oils are less effective in this operating range. Cars should run on a 30 wt oil, which I did for years in my older VW Rabbit (up north), for a consistent viscosity. Problem is the car has to be fully warmed before shifting into gear. But, I never had to add any oil after long road trips or city driving!
The other advantage of warming the hoopty up was no leaks! YEAH! Not hard to figure out why, think gaskets and mating surfaces, and pressures inside an engine, and what happens to these parts at 5 degrees F! And Rabbits were notorious for leaking! All the tankers that went thru the refinery i worked for took gas from the same fill tube, as told to me from every tanker driver. Same refinery that advertises that their gas is AMERICAN MADE! Funny, we don't import gasoline, oil though! |
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#36 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Real Name: Jon
Location: Chicago
Watch: IIc,DJII,P244,A1-Z
Posts: 2,857
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#37 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Real Name: Vu
Location: Dallas area
Watch: Platinum YM
Posts: 2,646
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BMW says a minimum of 91 octane, but pretty much all the premiums around Dallas are 93 octane.
I use only tier one gas so the stations I use are Chevron, QuickTrip, Shell and Texaco. |
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#38 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 37
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Depends on what I'm driving. But I stick to what the Owners Manual says to use ( octave level ).
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#39 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: SoCal
Watch: 16622 YM
Posts: 374
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Put 91 octane in my twin turbo 335i as required by the manual..
Same thing for the Honda Ruckus because the gas tank is only about 1 gallon! Figure it can't hurt! LOL! |
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#40 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Real Name: Bob
Location: U.S.A.
Watch: 1655
Posts: 65,809
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my car's manual says regular....I use regular....no problem!
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#41 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: May 2009
Real Name: Jib
Location: SJ, California
Watch: sun dial
Posts: 8,189
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For my Prius, anything will do!
![]() My Mercedes says 'premium', so I follow instructions. My old Porsche runs best at higher octane, so I put premium when I have to and 100 octane when I can. There's a Union 76 near my house that stocks it for $6 a gallon ![]() |
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#42 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Real Name: Matt
Location: Flint, MI
Watch: Ω 3570.50.00
Posts: 2,058
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My CBR600RR only takes premium. I use the cheapest gas for my Ford tho.
When I had my Mustang, I would also use premium every once in a while
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Miss you JJ Wash out this tired notion that the best is yet to come |
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#43 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: CA
Posts: 3,295
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Premium around here is 91 octane.....gag. I stick to 76/Chevron.
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#44 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Real Name: David
Location: USA
Watch: your step!
Posts: 7,882
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Whatever station is cheapest. My 300C "recommends" 89, but I put 87 in, unless there is no difference in price - runs fine. My Camaro needs the higher octane with a 10.5:1 compression ratio.
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Rolex. The Rolex of watches. 16570 Expy2 Noir, 116710 GMT Master II, 2552.80 SMP |
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