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21 March 2010, 05:28 AM | #1 |
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Dial & Hand Swaps on Oyster Case's, Crystal's and Movement's.
Hey guys,
Got some question's for you. I'm wondering if all 34mm no date dial's are interchangeable case-wise without any issues? I've been looking for a particular dial/hand style on a SS case which I've only seen so far on acrylic #10xx Perpetual's but haven't had much luck getting the exact dial I want in a SS case at a reasonable price so now I'm contemplating sourcing the dial separately and using an alternative movement and SS case from another Oyster model. I'm currently under the assumption that dial's and hands are easily interchangeable between 34mm vintage (acrylic) Non Date Oyster cases such as from the Perpetual / Precision / Air-King series as well as other SS 34mm Oyster cases. (please correct me if I am wrong) 1. Are dial's and hands then interchangeable between 34mm vintage (acrylic) Oyster model's and modern (sapphire) Air King's/Perpetual's as well? 2. With regards to fitting on the case and movement, do vintage hand's/dial's only fit a particular caliber/case range of a certain period or are they all standard size since the 50's till today? 3. As an extreme example, could the hands/dial originally from a 1570 #1002 be swapped into a current 3130 #1142 Air-King without any modifications? (If it is possible but only with modifications, what would that entail?) Haven't had much luck finding on how hands actually fit on different caliber movement's and if the inserts on them are all standard sized. I'm just trying to see how much leeway I can get away with regarding my option's and what's available on the market which I can get my hands on for a fair price. Your input is greatly appreciated. |
21 March 2010, 10:21 AM | #2 |
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Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
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No the hands will only fit their respective calibres and the dial feet are different. You could modify but whats the point you would have to cut and smooth the old dial feet off then using a dial foot soldering machine to put them in a different place on the back of the dial, soldering dial feet is a tricky business it's like spot welding the feet on and too much heat can burn the paint on the other side. So take care with the mods you're thinking about. Rik,
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21 March 2010, 12:56 PM | #3 |
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Rikk thanks for this .
Exactly what I wanted to know with regards to the vintage-modern compatibility. I would not dare waste money on a mod which would potentially damage an original dial or even worse the case and movement of a 'new' Rolex. So I assume for the first part of my question it's is OK as long as I keep within the 15xx caliber range of acrylic's for a swap and switch; say between a #1002 & a #5500? |
22 March 2010, 10:42 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Real Name: Rik Dietel
Location: Seminole Fla
Watch: 5512 s/s Sub
Posts: 1,818
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Bingo. Rikki
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22 March 2010, 10:02 PM | #5 |
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Thanks Rikki :)
I managed to find a #1002 but only the head for $800 and it's in transit now. I think the correct period bracelet should be a 78350 / 19mm with end piece 557? If I wanted the more recent Oyster Flip-Lock bracelet instead, do you know if there is a compatible model for this? So far I have only found 20mm flip-locks and not 19mm one's. Thank you again for your advice. |
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