Top-hat or beveled crystal

[bimmer]

Does anybody have a side by side comparison between the top hat and the beveled crystal?
Do people usually have a preference on which to have on vintages?

[Dan Pierce]

Originally Posted by bimmer

Does anybody have a side by side comparison between the top hat and the beveled crystal?
Do people usually have a preference on which to have on vintages?

Sorry, no comparison pics but love the top hat plex.
dP

[TheDude]

What does the OP consider "beveled"? Are we talking the difference between old and new tophats or different crystal references altogether?

The new service tophats (like Dan's and mine) bevel at the ring you can see midway up the side of the crystal.

The old vintage of the same crystal reference goes straight up. Most generally prefer these (NOS vintage), but they're ~3x the cost with no guarantee it will pass pressure test (though most would).

Also, you replace them every 5 years...

[Lol-x]

I much prefer the bevelled edge crystal especially on the 1680 model.

[bimmer]

Oh u mean only the straight up type needs to be replaced every 5 years or both of them do?

Originally Posted by TheDude

What does the OP consider "beveled"? Are we talking the difference between old and new tophats or different crystal references altogether?

The new service tophats (like Dan's and mine) bevel at the ring you can see midway up the side of the crystal.

The old vintage of the same crystal reference goes straight up. Most generally prefer these (NOS vintage), but they're ~3x the cost with no guarantee it will pass pressure test (though most would).

Also, you replace them every 5 years...

[sdwtchlvr]

To ensure water resistance, crystals are recommended to be replaced about every 5 years or so. Gaskets should be replaced every time the case is opened and crystal is removed. Although crystals can last 30-40 years.

[ParisDakarBmw]

Dan, I still love your watch.......

[TheDude]

Originally Posted by bimmer

Oh u mean only the straight up type needs to be replaced every 5 years or both of them do?

It is standard watchmaking practice to replace an acrylic crystal at each service. 5 years is general guidance for regular service.


Also, this is the older style. Our friend Orchi's...








More...

[Dan Pierce]

Originally Posted by ParisDakarBmw

Dan, I still love your watch.......

Thanks, Paul. It's a blast to wear.
dP

[bb3188]

Originally Posted by bimmer

Does anybody have a side by side comparison between the top hat and the beveled crystal?
Do people usually have a preference on which to have on vintages?

Bimmer still a bit unsure what you are asking for ?

the 1680 (for example ) came with both bevelled edge and dome/ curved (edge) top hat crystals.
With regards to the top hat crystals, the orginals IIRCC came with dome/curved edge and the service replacement came with the more bevelled edge

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by bb3188

the 1680 (for example ) came with both bevelled edge and dome/ curved (edge) top hat crystals.
With regards to the top hat crystals, the orginals IIRCC came with dome/curved edge and the service replacement came with the more bevelled edge

I just saw, for the first time, what seems to be a domed crystal (curved edge) with a cyclops on a red sub. Can that crystal be genuine and period correct for an early 1680??? From Mark's post, it appears that this is the case, but I am not sure. I was previously unaware of any crystal for the 1680 except the 90 degree top hat crystal. Thanks.

[bimmer]

bb3188 thanks for clarifying
I think below is a pic of a domed crystal on a 1680
whether it is genuine or period correct, I am not sure. Perhaps some expert here might know

[Racer X]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but is there a particular model number for the original top hat crystal with the 90 degree edge (sides go straight up) vs. the replacement version with the slight bevel or chamfer at the top edge? I would like to purchase the former for my 1680, but not the latter. I have seen #25-127 identified as a crystal for the 1680, but I don't know which version that is. Thanks!

[TheDude]

Originally Posted by Racer X

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but is there a particular model number for the original top hat crystal with the 90 degree edge (sides go straight up) vs. the replacement version with the slight bevel or chamfer at the top edge? I would like to purchase the former for my 1680, but not the latter. I have seen #25-127 identified as a crystal for the 1680, but I don't know which version that is. Thanks!

You'd be looking for a vintage #127.

Vintage is the key modifier, which means the sharp 90 degree top.


FWIW, a vintage costs about 3x the cost of the current Rolex service replacement 127. When I had my Red overhauled by Bob Ridley, he said for the watches going through his shop, 30:1 use service rather than vintage.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by TheDude

You'd be looking for a vintage #127.

Vintage is the key modifier, which means the sharp 90 degree top.


FWIW, a vintage costs about 3x the cost of the current Rolex service replacement 127. When I had my Red overhauled by Bob Ridley, he said for the watches going through his shop, 30:1 use service rather than vintage.

Thanks Dude. One more question: what is a "tropic" 127? Is that always the domed crystal? All the vintage 127s on sale on eBay seem to be described as tropics. Thanks!

Btw, very interesting on the 30:1 ratio. I would have thought most would prefer/require the original 90 degree version. It appears that you do. ;)

[PhilM]

The correct name for it is Cyclop 127, tropic is for the standard domed acrylic.

As for your question about the ratios, the problem with having an NOS crystal is that you can't guarantee that it will maintain a good seal once it's been pressure tested, it's simply too old and probably will have a few hairline cracks around the rim that if it gives way then would you want to run the risk of getting any moisture on that lovely Matt dial..... I've a 5513 with an original super dome, now it's been serviced and sealed but anymore than a little bit of rain and I start to try and keep the watch dry.

Now on the other hand, if I had a new service crystal fitted, then I'd treat it just like the SD

[mike]

Originally Posted by PhilM

The correct name for it is Cyclop 127, tropic is for the standard domed acrylic.

As for your question about the ratios, the problem with having an NOS crystal is that you can't guarantee that it will maintain a good seal once it's been pressure tested, it's simply too old and probably will have a few hairline cracks around the rim that if it gives way then would you want to run the risk of getting any moisture on that lovely Matt dial..... I've a 5513 with an original super dome, now it's been serviced and sealed but anymore than a little bit of rain and I start to try and keep the watch dry.

Now on the other hand, if I had a new service crystal fitted, then I'd treat it just like the SD

Nicely put.

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by PhilM

As for your question about the ratios, the problem with having an NOS crystal is that you can't guarantee that it will maintain a good seal once it's been pressure tested, it's simply too old and probably will have a few hairline cracks around the rim that if it gives way then would you want to run the risk of getting any moisture on that lovely Matt dial.

Thanks, that makes sense. No concern for me though as I don't take my vintage into the deep, or even the shower for that matter. That's what my 16610 is for.

[TheDude]

Originally Posted by Racer X

Thanks Dude. One more question: what is a "tropic" 127? Is that always the domed crystal? All the vintage 127s on sale on eBay seem to be described as tropics. Thanks!

Btw, very interesting on the 30:1 ratio. I would have thought most would prefer/require the original 90 degree version. It appears that you do. ;)

I believe using Tropic and 127 together is incorrect. It is my understanding that the tropic crystal is #19.

[Lol-x]

I prefer the beveled edge myself.

The high top hat edge just looks like it is sticking out too much for my aesthetic liking.

Is that a #19 or a #127?

[Route 66]

Originally Posted by sdwtchlvr

To ensure water resistance, crystals are recommended to be replaced about every 5 years or so. Gaskets should be replaced every time the case is opened and crystal is removed. Although crystals can last 30-40 years.

I'm confused. Your first sentence states that crystals should be replaced about every 5 years. Your last sentence says that crystals can last 30-40 years. Which is correct?

[Racer X]

Originally Posted by Stevarn

I'm confused. Your first sentence states that crystals should be replaced about every 5 years. Your last sentence says that crystals can last 30-40 years. Which is correct?

I think that it's, to be on the safe side, you should replace every 5, even though it is possible for them to last longer, especially if they are not challenged by high pressures.

[mike]

Originally Posted by Stevarn

I'm confused. Your first sentence states that crystals should be replaced about every 5 years. Your last sentence says that crystals can last 30-40 years. Which is correct?

Steve,

Rolex replaces the crystal at service. Acryllic crystals are fittted to the watch like modern sapphire. They are press fit. Over time acryllic can develop stress cracks at the point of contact. Additionally acryllic can develop cracks simply over time. Is this the case on every NOS crystal--Don't know, but there have been many reports of NOS crystals failing a pressure check--one's that have never been on a watch.

Does that mean never use them? No,..but it would be wise to check any acryllic for pressure and one that has been sitting for a long period of time should be viewed as one not really to be used in water.

Of course there are those that have not had a problem, but there are those that have. Caution is always paramont when dealing with vintage.

I would prefer a new acryllic rather than taking a chance.

[Route 66]

Originally Posted by mike

Steve,

Rolex replaces the crystal at service. Acryllic crystals are fittted to the watch like modern sapphire. They are press fit. Over time acryllic can develop stress cracks at the point of contact. Additionally acryllic can develop cracks simply over time. Is this the case on every NOS crystal--Don't know, but there have been many reports of NOS crystals failing a pressure check--one's that have never been on a watch.

Does that mean never use them? No,..but it would be wise to check any acryllic for pressure and one that has been sitting for a long period of time should be viewed as one not really to be used in water.

Of course there are those that have not had a problem, but there are those that have. Caution is always paramont when dealing with vintage.

I would prefer a new acryllic rather than taking a chance.

Thanks Mike, it's clear now.

[bb3188]

Originally Posted by Lol-x

I prefer the beveled edge myself.

The high top hat edge just looks like it is sticking out too much for my aesthetic liking.

Is that a #19 or a #127?

Hey Steve, the one your after is Cyclop #127............. the #19 are for the 5512/3's and does not have the magnifier.....

[PhilM]

Does anybody know the full reference number for the modern service crystal that Rolex would fit on say a 1680

[PhilM]

Found my own answer, it's a B25-127