Rolex Explorer help!

[yachtzee]

Hi guys! I'm new to this forum and will soon be a owner of a Rolex Explorer 2 16570

I've decided to get this watch because I think it's the one for me after reading/lookingup/ and seeing the watch in person!
The only problem I'm having right now is deciding which Serial number/Movt. I should be buying!!!!
There are so many different little changes that are in the watch throughout the different serial numbers. When buying a watch should I be considering a newer one? or does it not matter. Also is there a better movement? Like for example the 3185 vs the 3186.
Thank you for helping me out! :) all input is appreciated.

[nauticajoe]

Welcome!

I guess it would depend on your budget. Do you want new or pre-loved? '85 or '86 movement?

At the end of the day, it's a great watch. You can't go wrong.

Good luck!

[RickardBlom]

Get one with lume-power left. I love my hollow end links and swiss t dial but the lack of lume is just not right on the no 1 tool-rolex. Great choice of watch!

[joe100]

The difference between the cal 3185 and 3186 is minuscule and irrelevant in everyday use. You'll see 3186 equipped 16570s selling for a hefty markup so don't buy into the hype.

The 16570 went through a lot of cosmetic changes. Lug holes, no lug holes, bracelet clasps etc. either find one you like or buy the newest you can afford. No option is better than the other, just depends on your tastes

[Glpstandard]

I just bought my first Rolex (an Exp II) a few weeks ago, and know nothing about Rolex and very little about the Exp II, so take my advice for what it's worth. I went with a P series (2000ish) model.

When I bought mine, I wouldn't even consider a <2000 model, simply because of the illumination of the dial. As stated above, the earlier Exp IIs used Tritium (they say "Swiss T<25" on the dial at the 6 oclock position) and they will no longer glow properly in dark settings. This was a huge selling point, as I didnt want a watch that didn't glow anymore. Around 1998 or so, they started using Luminova in the dials (itll say "Swiss" for 1998-1999 models, or "Swiss Made" for 2000+ models without the "T<25" at the 6 oclock position to indicate this change). These will glow properly even after 10-15 years, unlike the Tritium dials, which have a shelf life so to speak, and will dim over the years until they won't glow anymore.

Also around 2000 they switched to SEL's. This wasn't such a huge deal to me, but it seems most people prefer SEL's over HEL's. This could perhaps help resale value in the future I suppose. Other than that, I don't understand the benefits of one vs the other, maybe someone else can chime in. I prefered SEL, just because it seems to be the more desirable bracelet, and I wanted something that was most desirable.

They switched to a no lug hole case around 2003-2004 I believe (could be wrong). IMO, the lug holes have no aesthetic benefit or disavantage over no lug holes. I prefered the lug holes because it makes removing the bracelet easier (in theory).

Sometime around the mid 2000's they added the word "ROLEX" engraved on the Rehaut. I love the Rehaut engraving, but watches with this feature were just a bit more than I was looking to spend, so I had to opt for an earlier model. Soon after, they started adding a laser engraved Rolex crown on the crystal at the 6 oclock position. Also a nice feature, but its very small, and from what I read you will never even notice it unless you are looking for it with a lupe, so its not very practical to spend the extra $$$ just for that.

Regarding 3185 vs 3186 movement, I dont know the differences, but Ive read (as was stated above) they are minimal, and not worth the extra money. I believe the movements changed in the late 2000's?

Thats all I know, and I could be wrong with some of my details, but hopefully this info will help you make a decision. Honestly, the only feature that changed over the years that IMO weighs in on a decision (atleast for me) to buy an EXP II is the dial illumination. If you want the Luminova dial, but don't care about any of the other features I mentioned, Id say go for a 2000-2004 model. If you dont care about the dial illuminaton or any other features, go for a 1999 or older to save some money. From what Ive seen in my search, these go for more money the newer they are, so buying an older example could save you some cash.

[yachtzee]

Great replies thanks so much. and really informative. I did not know that they even used different materials. I really want one that will be bright in the dark so that will be a huge factor for me like it was for you. Thanks very much guys. I leave this page very satisfied with my replies. Will be back soon:) maybe some pics:)

[RickardBlom]

You will not be sorry! It's a great, great watch! (Best part is that you can have it in black or white)

[George Ab]

I too recommend forgetting about the difference between a 3185 and 3185. The change is a gear ratio change for when you adjust the jump hour hand, and the parachrome hairspring.

The three features I would look at is solid end links (SEL) or not. SEL bracelets came around the P serial and newer year 2000. Next feature is lug holes or no lug holes. No lug holes are on late Y serial 2002. So if you want SEL and lug holes you need a P, K, or early Y serial. Last feature is ROLEXROLEX around the case flange next to dial. That came on the late Z serials. If it has that feature is usually will also have the 3186 movement.

[Chainring]

Originally Posted by Glpstandard

I just bought my first Rolex (an Exp II) a few weeks ago, and know nothing about Rolex and very little about the Exp II, so take my advice for what it's worth.

You summed it up very well so it sounds like you know your stuff. I bought a P series GMT for the same reasons.