Loose pin in clasp hinge?

[crash_c]

Hi gents,

Quick question. Do any other members experience slightly loose pins in their bracelet clasps? If so, how are you dealing with and/or repairing this? Mine seems to start coming out of its place after a few days of consistent wear.

Thanks!
Andrew

[HERITAGE82]

I tap it back in place and squeeze the metal around it with needle nose pliers if it continues to come loose. Usually once tapped back in it stays put.

[crash_c]

Awesome. Will give it a shot. Thanks!

[crowncollection]

it's called a cotter pin, under 5 dollars from an AD

[crash_c]

Thanks, crowncollection. So it's as simple as asking them for the pin? Or would they install it themselves? Appreciate your help! -Andrew

[Tools]

The hinge pin on your bracelet should be a rivet. It looks like it's just a cut rod that has been inserted. It needs the ends hammered (riveted) at each end to keep it from coming out.

.... and it should be stainless steel, not a cut piece from a paper clip.

[springer]

Originally Posted by Tools

The hinge pin on your bracelet should be a rivet. It looks like it's just a cut rod that has been inserted. It needs the ends hammered (riveted) at each end to keep it from coming out.

.... and it should be stainless steel, not a cut piece from a paper clip.

May I add, most of the the vintage Rolex bracelets from the 1960s through the 1980s, the ones I am most familiar with, used push pins or "cotter pins" to secure the two hinge pieces. This is the case on the GMTs and other vintage watches that I have owned. I believe the rivet head pins were used on the later Rolex bracelets to secure the two hinge pieces.

Esslingers sells knurled head clasp pins that fit very tight and are more secure than the standard cotter pins.

[Velox]

Originally Posted by Tools

The hinge pin on your bracelet should be a rivet. It looks like it's just a cut rod that has been inserted. It needs the ends hammered (riveted) at each end to keep it from coming out.

.... and it should be stainless steel, not a cut piece from a paper clip.

My 1990's 16233 did not have a riveted pin? at least thats what it looked like. (they look like op's pic)
I needed to replace a clasp. And use a bracelet tool, a simple screw thing that pushes out the pin.
I added new pins that are suposedly for my bracelet/watch make.
The clasp seems very secure but I don't see how I can hammer the end the pins simply aren't long enough.

Did they give me the wrong pins?

[Velox]

Sorry I see my question has already been awnsered, I have the tendency to reply before reading the whole thread

[crash_c]

Originally Posted by springer

May I add, most of the the vintage Rolex bracelets from the 1960s through the 1980s, the ones I am most familiar with, used push pins or "cotter pins" to secure the two hinge pieces. This is the case on the GMTs and other vintage watches that I have owned. I believe the rivet head pins were used on the later Rolex bracelets to secure the two hinge pieces.

Esslingers sells knurled head clasp pins that fit very tight and are more secure than the standard cotter pins.

Hi springer,

Are these the ones that you recommend? If so, I'll grab them and put them in myself.

Thanks!
Andrew

[springer]

Originally Posted by crash_c

Hi springer,

Are these the ones that you recommend? If so, I'll grab them and put them in myself.

Thanks!
Andrew

The knurled pins work very well.

[springer]

Originally Posted by crash_c

Hi springer,

Are these the ones that you recommend? If so, I'll grab them and put them in myself.

Thanks!
Andrew

Try this link to Esslinger.com.

http://www.esslinger.com/watch-band-...k-pin-refills/

Go to the "Please Choose an Option" drop down and choose #17 which is 16mm in length. You can also buy the longer ones and cut them for fit. They come with six to the package.

[crash_c]

D'oh! In my haste to ask the question, I forgot to post the link!! Thanks much.

Andrew

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Velox

Sorry I see my question has already been awnsered, I have the tendency to reply before reading the whole thread

If there isn't enough there to "rivet" or round the ends, you can press them out and carefully squeeze about an 1/4 inch of the end with a pair of pliers to knurl the ends yourself.

You would need to carefully press the hinge pin back in.

[R.W.T.]

Nevermind.

[2ar2c1]

it takes a bit of dexterity to deform the heads so they won't fall out: I use pin stock from esslingers.

[Velox]

Originally Posted by Tools

If there isn't enough there to "rivet" or round the ends, you can press them out and carefully squeeze about an 1/4 inch of the end with a pair of pliers to knurl the ends yourself.

You would need to carefully press the hinge pin back in.

Im sorry, now your confusing me again.
So my clasp does need to have a riveted pin? My friends datejust also doesn't have a riveted pin, and my tissot watch also doesn't have a riveted pin in the clasp.
Or does a cotter pin also need to be riveted? They don't say anything about that in the esslinger instruction video on their site, they just hammer it in.
A cotter pin is already wider on one side right? so why would you deform it more?

[Tools]

Originally Posted by Velox

Im sorry, now your confusing me again.
So my clasp does need to have a riveted pin? My friends datejust also doesn't have a riveted pin, and my tissot watch also doesn't have a riveted pin in the clasp.
Or does a cotter pin also need to be riveted? They don't say anything about that in the esslinger instruction video on their site, they just hammer it in.
A cotter pin is already wider on one side right? so why would you deform it more?

No.. I was simply stating that I prefer to use rivet hinge pins as they do not come out and are simple to do. I keep 3 foot long stainless steel rod stock in my shop, cut to length and rivet in place.

A friction lock pin, like those at Esslinger, are pressed (or hammered) in place, but over time they will flex and bend and come loose again.

You said that yours was loose and coming out.

Knurling is a common method of displacing the metal and making a small diameter rod "larger" by displacing/deforming the metal into higher ridges. If your only problem is that it is worn down and sliding out you can deform the ends again and make the friction fit tighter. If you get new ones they will already be knurled.

Or you can do like Rolex has done on modern hinge pins and have rivets put in; they don't slide out.

P7100006 by LarryDPhotography, on Flickr