Sub (etc.) crystal retainer die

[J!m]

OK fellow watch repairers. If you are as frustrated as I am with the inability to get a PROPER size/angle/depth seating die for vintage Rolex crystal reatiners (the ring under the bezel ring), or maybe you just want to be able to change your own crystals (assuming you have the correct retainer lift) I am working on a solution.

I have tried a few plastic ones over the years, which are too shallow (foul on the crystal, which gets really expensive) or if they clear, the brass threaded insert pops through the delrin and THAT ruins the crystal.

I have actually been using a 12-point socket, but the problem is that it applies force on the outside edge of the retainer, and does not drive it down flat. That causes problems with the proper bezel function. I have other techniques I use to get around that and ensure the retainer is perfectly seated but it is a lot of extra labor.

So, I have designed a die, which will have a solid top (to use with a regular press) as well as a 1/4-20 tapped center hole, to use with (most) crystal presses. The bore will clear even the T39 (seadweller) tall superdome crystal, as well as the Cyclops on the T125 and T127 crystals.

I have my pricing now. About $80 each unless I get a huge request (like 50+). These will be made from USA sourced material, machined in CT to Aerospace quality standards. In other words: really nice. They will be aluminum, not delrin. So, it WILL score your crystal if you are not careful using it. It will be sized and shaped to fit perfectly on genuine Rolex retaining rings, without touching the crystal. I could probably get them hard anodized her in state as well, but that would probably double the cost. Plus hard anodize is harder than the 316 stainless and it might scratch the retainer. The aluminum wont scratch the stainless (unless you get imbedded grit or something)

I can dot peen engrave an I.D. name or number on it, and may just do that on all of them anyway. I haven't decided yet.

In case it wasn't clear, this is for the vintage Hesalite / Plexiglass crystal watches: 5512, 5513, 1665 (pretty certain on the 1665) and 1680. The GMT (1675) uses a different bezel and retaining ring. I don't have a genuine one of those to verify the design also works for that, (If someone can post side-by-side pictures that would be great) but I suspect it will be better than whatever you're using now.

Let me know if there is any interest so I know how many to order.
Thanks!

PS Feel free to PM me if you prefer.

[ROLLiWORKS]

These work well with Bergeon 6173 rack press.

https://www.esslinger.com/watch-beze...-9-pc-die-kit/
https://www.boley.de/en/shop/4386.ra...300.rack-press

these are nice too

https://www.esslinger.com/plastic-fi...s-or-set-of-3/

we use both from time to time

[J!m]

I found some of those first dies (aluminum with nylon insert) and they don't seem to be deep enough to clear old 127's and T39's. Have you used them with those crystals without touching the Cyclops or center of the T39?

I ruined a (fortunately aftermarket) T39 with a similar depth plastic die that had a brass threaded insert. The insert came out and ruined the center of the crystal.

I have since switched to a "stouter" press, rather than the crystal press I was using before, and I currently use a 30mm Snap-On 12-point socket. But, it doesn't press tight against the crystal, where it has the most resistance, and I have had retainers go out of flat doing this.

I'm going to make one for myself. Nearly $150 but save one vintage crystal and it's paid for.

Thank you for the reply however. Those are cheap and I had hoped they might work.

[ROLLiWORKS]

yes dies for crystal presses are pretty shallow. The dies I pointed you to are bezel dies. Deeper.