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lsberrios1 · 21 April 2019, 02:47 AM

Hello Ladies and Gents,

Based on one of my previous threads, I was considering buying a Seiko GMT Spring Drive, a Zenith Defy 21 or Chronomaster Open, or a Glashutte Original Panoinverse. Well, I finally picked up one of the three.

What I wish I would have been available to read before I bought it. Sorry about the poor camera work, hopefully I can get a nicer camera and some skills to go with it in the future ;).

Shout out!

Big shout out to Chris at Diamonds Direct in Charlotte, NC for providing such incredible service and enabling me to get this incredible piece of what I would call haute horology. His pricing was incredibly competitive and, if anybody is looking to buy a new Zenith watch, I would highly recommend reaching out to him.

Why the Defy 21

So, why the Zenith Defy El Primero 21? Having had (and lost) a Rolex Daytona 16520, passed on to me by my father, I always felt some degree of attraction to the Zenith brand, particularly its chronograph movements. Since 16520 prices, or any Daytona, have soared in recent years, I am unable to justify getting another one at this point in my life. It will come, but it must be earned.

To me, the Zenith Defy 21 takes the concept of the 16520 and dials it up to eleven. It is an A-Vant Garde take on a quality chronograph. The Defy 21 shares many of the components and its beating heart with my father’s heirloom.

This watch is a good representation of how I view myself compared to my father, more energetic and contemporary yet not as classy or refined and mature.

What does it look like in person?

Quick and to the point, pictures do not do it justice. The watch has a great finish, interesting looks and big presence on the wrist. The contrast of unidirectional brushed and mirror polished surfaces combined with the vintage Defy case shape make it a great modern take on a classic watch. The former attributes give the watch a sense of heritage, which is good if you are into collecting watches. The Defy 21 feels like it is the first of its own generation instead a vintage reissue of an old watch; keeping historical significance that could carry on forward in time.

The inner works are very impressive. While most of the components are titanium and make it look a little monochromatic, it provides some visual contrast with darker anthracite grays, vintage Zenith “sub dial blue” and red markings on the moving hands. The 53 jewels and the silicon regulator provide small but interesting visual focal points. The 5Hz escapement that powers the chronometer beats away at 36,000vph making the watch feel like you are wearing a living object with its own heart. Readability takes getting used to but once your brain calibrates it becomes easier and less of a concern.

How does it wear?

It wears like a 44mm (which it is). On my 7” wrist it is right on the border of what I would wear, still good but definitely on the big side. The rectangular pushers are great and do not dig into my hand. The crown, while big and hefty, is not intrusive and looks proportional to the watchcase.

I originally bought it with the rubber backed alligator strap and, quite frankly, I did not like the way it fit. The hinge on the buckle dug into my skin 90% of the time and was particularly painful to wear if I was carrying something with some heft (e.g. watch box). I ended up swapping the watch for a titanium bracelet model, and oh boy, am I glad I did.

While some comments on the forums say that the titanium bracelet is “too light” and “makes the watch feel cheap”, it could not be further from the truth. The watch went from feeling “Hublotesque” with the aforementioned strap and clasp to feeling like a young version of an AP Royal Oak. It is light, relative to other 44mm watches (think Breitling or Panerai), but the way the bracelet is linked and finished make it feel comfortable and look its price tag. It does not have the heft of a 41mm DJ or even a 40mm Milgauss but it is not meant to feel that way, the Defy 21 is in a class of its own with its own presence and fit. The Defy wears more like my father’s 16570 in terms of weight and feel.

Case height is where this watch might deviate from the interweb’s “perfect proportion” standards (still subjective). The AP RO Chronograph I tried a few months ago felt slimmer and a tad bit nicer when it came to case height. This watch is not flush but does not wear with excess bulk. An impressive skeletonized movement with two frantic escapements has to compromise somewhere.

Adjustability is not on par with Rolex but integration and aesthetics have something to do with that. Seeking an integrated and uniform look the links are proportional and progressive towards the case and clasp. Micro adjustments are not possible but there is a good amount of links to negotiate. You can get very close to a perfect fit.

The watch wears great. Not the best fitting watch I’ve ever owned but not far from it considering the 44mm case holds an unparalleled horological world of wonders inside.

The 9004 movement

Wow, definitely the centerpiece of this maverick device. Intricate, sophisticated yet industrial, the 9004 movement does not fail to impress. With asymmetrical rhodium plated markers, a moon shaped and overlapping sub second dial and a three spoke second hand that serves no purpose, this movement is designed to spark good conversation. The moving parts are magnets to your eyeballs as the watch catches you looking at it frequently and lets you know with a twitchy eye rather than a blink.

The chronograph actuation is beyond any other chronograph I have ever “pushed”/owned. (Vailjoux 7750, Lemania 1861, ETA 2892-A2, Rolex 4030 included). The start pusher is crisp, precise and very easy to push. The reset pusher is 90% of the same feel. Action is quick resetting all hands with sleight of hand efficiency. The crown is beefy but adequate for such a statement piece. It is also textured and contains a rubber insert to ensure grip for efficient winding.

Winding is a plus and a minus on this one. Having two different escapements, the crown enables bi-directional winding. The crown winds clockwise for the chronograph and counterclockwise for the timekeeping. The chronograph winding is pure pleasure, similar to the manual wind from a Lemania 1861 but with better ergonomics since the crown, while slightly recessed, is much larger. On the other hand, the timekeeping winding leaves a little bit to be desired. While the chronograph winding is clearly indexed and emits a very audible click, the timekeeping wind feels more like grinding micro teeth. It is still smooth but, in my opinion, not as satisfying. In hindsight, the timekeeping wind provides a contrasting experience, which is always nice.

Taking about noise… that 1/100th of a second is sensory overload. It is like receiving a relaxing massage using a shaken beehive. Does it make sense? I love it. Being able to measure down to 1/100th of a second makes as much sense as drinking Diet Coke instead of Coke Zero. I cannot say it is not useful, but somewhat of a taste based complication since it drops the hour counter in return. The 50Hz escapement sits quietly until the silky pusher shakes the beehive. The chronograph seconds hand sweeps around the dial once per second with hypnotic frequency.

The chronograph action really needs to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. If you are unable to get your hands on one, watch this video from Watchfinder.

Would I recommend it?

Absolutely, however, this is not a “1-watch” collection piece. If you already own a Submariner, a Speedmaster, and a Calatrava but missing on a “Genta looking” piece or a 36,000vph monster this could be your golden ticket. It fits my collection nicely, even though it is mostly chronograph centric. Having a skeletonized movement, an integrated bracelet, 70’s inspired casing, a bulletproof movement and historical significance this just sat in the sweet spot for me. I call it my statement piece.

It is also a good value proposition. I would consider the movement to be on par with Rolex and Omega, antimagnetic, COSC certified, and iconic. It is also innovative and different. Its ability to measure 1/100th of a second pushes the Defy 21 into the next generation of watchmaking. The finishing, to the naked eye, and the functionality are just as good as on the aforementioned brands. Do an objective (non market biased) spec comparison between a Rolex Daytona with a 4130 movement, Omega Speedmaster with a 9300 Co-Axial movement and the Defy 21 with its 9004 movement, and the latter might be the best value even for $12,200. When you factor in discounts to be had on basically all markets, it made my decision an easy one. Looks aside (subjective) the Defy 21 is a watch to consider whether you are a serious collector or want a fun watch that simply delivers upon its history and heritage.

I love my Defy 21

Yes, the Daytona will come in due time but right now the Zenith is for me. El Primero also celebrates my first year in sobriety. ☺ What will 5 years of sobriety bring? Post your recommendations!

ChrisInCharlotte · 21 April 2019, 03:34 AM

Glad you love the watch Luis, congrats man it’s a beauty

FinWatch · 21 April 2019, 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsberrios1

Hello Ladies and Gents,

Based on one of my previous threads, I was considering buying a Seiko GMT Spring Drive, a Zenith Defy 21 or Chronomaster Open, or a Glashutte Original Panoinverse. Well, I finally picked up one of the three.

What I wish I would have been available to read before I bought it. Sorry about the poor camera work, hopefully I can get a nicer camera and some skills to go with it in the future ;).

Shout out!

Big shout out to Chris at Diamonds Direct in Charlotte, NC for providing such incredible service and enabling me to get this incredible piece of what I would call haute horology. His pricing was incredibly competitive and, if anybody is looking to buy a new Zenith watch, I would highly recommend reaching out to him.

Why the Defy 21

So, why the Zenith Defy El Primero 21? Having had (and lost) a Rolex Daytona 16520, passed on to me by my father, I always felt some degree of attraction to the Zenith brand, particularly its chronograph movements. Since 16520 prices, or any Daytona, have soared in recent years, I am unable to justify getting another one at this point in my life. It will come, but it must be earned.

To me, the Zenith Defy 21 takes the concept of the 16520 and dials it up to eleven. It is an A-Vant Garde take on a quality chronograph. The Defy 21 shares many of the components and its beating heart with my father’s heirloom.

This watch is a good representation of how I view myself compared to my father, more energetic and contemporary yet not as classy or refined and mature.

What does it look like in person?

Quick and to the point, pictures do not do it justice. The watch has a great finish, interesting looks and big presence on the wrist. The contrast of unidirectional brushed and mirror polished surfaces combined with the vintage Defy case shape make it a great modern take on a classic watch. The former attributes give the watch a sense of heritage, which is good if you are into collecting watches. The Defy 21 feels like it is the first of its own generation instead a vintage reissue of an old watch; keeping historical significance that could carry on forward in time.

The inner works are very impressive. While most of the components are titanium and make it look a little monochromatic, it provides some visual contrast with darker anthracite grays, vintage Zenith “sub dial blue” and red markings on the moving hands. The 53 jewels and the silicon regulator provide small but interesting visual focal points. The 5Hz escapement that powers the chronometer beats away at 36,000vph making the watch feel like you are wearing a living object with its own heart. Readability takes getting used to but once your brain calibrates it becomes easier and less of a concern.

How does it wear?

It wears like a 44mm (which it is). On my 7” wrist it is right on the border of what I would wear, still good but definitely on the big side. The rectangular pushers are great and do not dig into my hand. The crown, while big and hefty, is not intrusive and looks proportional to the watchcase.

I originally bought it with the rubber backed alligator strap and, quite frankly, I did not like the way it fit. The hinge on the buckle dug into my skin 90% of the time and was particularly painful to wear if I was carrying something with some heft (e.g. watch box). I ended up swapping the watch for a titanium bracelet model, and oh boy, am I glad I did.

While some comments on the forums say that the titanium bracelet is “too light” and “makes the watch feel cheap”, it could not be further from the truth. The watch went from feeling “Hublotesque” with the aforementioned strap and clasp to feeling like a young version of an AP Royal Oak. It is light, relative to other 44mm watches (think Breitling or Panerai), but the way the bracelet is linked and finished make it feel comfortable and look its price tag. It does not have the heft of a 41mm DJ or even a 40mm Milgauss but it is not meant to feel that way, the Defy 21 is in a class of its own with its own presence and fit. The Defy wears more like my father’s 16570 in terms of weight and feel.

Case height is where this watch might deviate from the interweb’s “perfect proportion” standards (still subjective). The AP RO Chronograph I tried a few months ago felt slimmer and a tad bit nicer when it came to case height. This watch is not flush but does not wear with excess bulk. An impressive skeletonized movement with two frantic escapements has to compromise somewhere.

Adjustability is not on par with Rolex but integration and aesthetics have something to do with that. Seeking an integrated and uniform look the links are proportional and progressive towards the case and clasp. Micro adjustments are not possible but there is a good amount of links to negotiate. You can get very close to a perfect fit.

The watch wears great. Not the best fitting watch I’ve ever owned but not far from it considering the 44mm case holds an unparalleled horological world of wonders inside.

The 9004 movement

Wow, definitely the centerpiece of this maverick device. Intricate, sophisticated yet industrial, the 9004 movement does not fail to impress. With asymmetrical rhodium plated markers, a moon shaped and overlapping sub second dial and a three spoke second hand that serves no purpose, this movement is designed to spark good conversation. The moving parts are magnets to your eyeballs as the watch catches you looking at it frequently and lets you know with a twitchy eye rather than a blink.

The chronograph actuation is beyond any other chronograph I have ever “pushed”/owned. (Vailjoux 7750, Lemania 1861, ETA 2892-A2, Rolex 4030 included). The start pusher is crisp, precise and very easy to push. The reset pusher is 90% of the same feel. Action is quick resetting all hands with sleight of hand efficiency. The crown is beefy but adequate for such a statement piece. It is also textured and contains a rubber insert to ensure grip for efficient winding.

Winding is a plus and a minus on this one. Having two different escapements, the crown enables bi-directional winding. The crown winds clockwise for the chronograph and counterclockwise for the timekeeping. The chronograph winding is pure pleasure, similar to the manual wind from a Lemania 1861 but with better ergonomics since the crown, while slightly recessed, is much larger. On the other hand, the timekeeping winding leaves a little bit to be desired. While the chronograph winding is clearly indexed and emits a very audible click, the timekeeping wind feels more like grinding micro teeth. It is still smooth but, in my opinion, not as satisfying. In hindsight, the timekeeping wind provides a contrasting experience, which is always nice.

Taking about noise… that 1/100th of a second is sensory overload. It is like receiving a relaxing massage using a shaken beehive. Does it make sense? I love it. Being able to measure down to 1/100th of a second makes as much sense as drinking Diet Coke instead of Coke Zero. I cannot say it is not useful, but somewhat of a taste based complication since it drops the hour counter in return. The 50Hz escapement sits quietly until the silky pusher shakes the beehive. The chronograph seconds hand sweeps around the dial once per second with hypnotic frequency.

The chronograph action really needs to be seen in person to be fully appreciated. If you are unable to get your hands on one, watch this video from Watchfinder.

Would I recommend it?

Absolutely, however, this is not a “1-watch” collection piece. If you already own a Submariner, a Speedmaster, and a Calatrava but missing on a “Genta looking” piece or a 36,000vph monster this could be your golden ticket. It fits my collection nicely, even though it is mostly chronograph centric. Having a skeletonized movement, an integrated bracelet, 70’s inspired casing, a bulletproof movement and historical significance this just sat in the sweet spot for me. I call it my statement piece.

It is also a good value proposition. I would consider the movement to be on par with Rolex and Omega, antimagnetic, COSC certified, and iconic. It is also innovative and different. Its ability to measure 1/100th of a second pushes the Defy 21 into the next generation of watchmaking. The finishing, to the naked eye, and the functionality are just as good as on the aforementioned brands. Do an objective (non market biased) spec comparison between a Rolex Daytona with a 4130 movement, Omega Speedmaster with a 9300 Co-Axial movement and the Defy 21 with its 9004 movement, and the latter might be the best value even for $12,200. When you factor in discounts to be had on basically all markets, it made my decision an easy one. Looks aside (subjective) the Defy 21 is a watch to consider whether you are a serious collector or want a fun watch that simply delivers upon its history and heritage.

I love my Defy 21

Yes, the Daytona will come in due time but right now the Zenith is for me. El Primero also celebrates my first year in sobriety.

What will 5 years of sobriety bring? Post your recommendations!

Such a great review, thanks for sharing! This El Primero is very interesting: I was just about to get one but not yet..
Congrats for your first year in sobriety—we are blessed in many ways!!!

Some great watches you have in your collection. Maby after five years of sobriety: Daytona? Or one very interesting Rolex: YM II?
All the best!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

alpharulez · 21 April 2019, 06:06 AM