Shades of lume

[Styles Bitchley]

I’m curious about the best way to source hands that are a good lume match for a dial. I know vintage tritium hands are available but without having several to hold up to the dial how does one find a good patina match? Photos vary based on lighting, so do vintage watch guys have special paint chips or something?


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[onthedial]

@Styles Bitchley
The best way is to have your watch in hand while you examine the set (or sets) you’re thinking of purchasing. Trying to find a match via digital files or pics is difficult as there are many factors working against you. Obviously you could get lucky, but the odds aren’t good. Suffice it to say, this is only one person’s opinion (mine). Now, if you were replacing a pip/pearl and wanted it to be “in harmony” with your dial’s patina, you’d have a bit of latitude, so buying by digital image alone is doable, provided that the seller’s images are reasonably color balanced.
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IG: @onthedial


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[lupus66]

Have them matched by someone who knows what to di

[Dan S]

The lume on hands and dial often (usually, in fact) age differently. In fact, the lume often ages slightly differently from hand to hand on the same watch. You will see this even in one-owner watches that have never been tampered with. So IMO, you are looking for hands in the same general range, but an exact match is not necessary.

If your aesthetic preferences demand an exact match, you will need to have the hands color-matched by an expert.

[swish77]

Originally Posted by Styles Bitchley

I’m curious about the best way to source hands that are a good lume match for a dial. I know vintage tritium hands are available but without having several to hold up to the dial how does one find a good patina match? Photos vary based on lighting, so do vintage watch guys have special paint chips or something?


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Been down this road several times through the years, and it ain't fun. There's no magic trick to get a good matching set, other than seeing different sets of hands in person with your watch, and even then it can be tricky. It's one reason I only buy watches with matching patina nowadays, even though I realize sometimes dial/hands patina can be different even on all-original watches.

I never like the color-matching option. That's as unacceptable to me as any other kind of modification on a vintage watch. I'd rather have service parts.

[77T]

Would this be for your 1680? Or another model?

My input is that modern color matching paint should be balanced with potential lost value in originality. If you go that route, keep the original hands even if they don’t look right.

If the watch is already compromised in that regard, then follow your personal preference restoring the hands.

IMHO, it will be easier to work with an experienced vintage shop like the Ridley’s than DIY.


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[77T]

Originally Posted by swish77

I never like the color-matching option. That's as unacceptable to me as any other kind of modification on a vintage watch. I'd rather have service parts.

I certainly agree if the owner is likely to pass the watch off later as “all original”.



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[Styles Bitchley]

Originally Posted by 77T

Would this be for your 1680? Or another model?

My input is that modern color matching paint should be balanced with potential lost value in originality. If you go that route, keep the original hands even if they don’t look right.

If the watch is already compromised in that regard, then follow your personal preference restoring the hands.

IMHO, it will be easier to work with an experienced vintage shop like the Ridley’s than DIY.


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Yeah, my 1680. I’ve always thought the hands were original despite how white they are compared to the dial. They certainly have never been changed in my 25 years of ownership and they’ve never glowed. Some have commented recently to me that they’re probably service hands because of the mismatch. I see how harmonious matched lume can be and I’m starting to want it too! If they’re service hands, there’s no big deal in swapping.




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[77T]

I can see a bit of what you mean - it’s slight but discernible. They could be original because Rolex back then had one company making hands and another printing dials. The formulas for Tritium lume had different percentages of phosphorus, titanium dioxide and binders. This can lead to different patination over decades of oxidation.

I had a 1980’s Root Beer with the same color issue. I bought it from the original owner who had all papers, box and original sales receipt with his name on it.

In his 25 year ownership he had never serviced it but it ran strong. My Rolex certified watchmaker did the service and I simply lived with the difference until it was sold onward.

I had considered refinishing the hands but just didn’t want to have to explain such a step upon a future sale. After seeing yours, I’d let it go until you’re ready for a service and then let a very trusted vintage watchmaker do the work. While it is in he might be able to source a set of hands with matching hue.


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