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4 November 2010, 12:01 AM | #1 |
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Need help! 1665 DRSD, who, what, where, when, why and how?
Ok guys I am aiming big for my next purchase. Hopefully late in first quarter of 2011 I will be prepare to make a serious offer on a 1665 DRSD. I have read everything on doubleredseadweller.com about the 1680 red and 1665 DRSD. 1665 is for me What a great site full of information btw. But I need some real life advice from experts and owners alike on what I need to ask and where I need to be looking to find the right piece.
It appears the going rate for a Mark III or IV original without box and papers and usually with 91350 replacement bracelet is going up or down around 24k. Is it fair to assume this is the going rate today as the price has jumped over the years? Also I noticed about a 3-5k price difference between a dial that has tritium turned patina over a luminous dial with luminous hands. What is the tritium dial worth compared to luminous? Original 9135 bracelet vs 91350? How about adding papers or a box? Trying to establish some bargaining chips here. I much prefer the original tritium dial as I love the patina if it is matching evenly throughout the dial and hands. The luminous dial to me loses its vintage appeal although some prefer the new clean look which is ok I found a model that I really like that Robert Maron is selling. Give me your opinions on this one. I realize the pearl on the insert is not tritium but I can find that later down the road from Steve M or the vintage marketplace. http://robertmaron.com/product.php?p...cat=265&page=1 what do you think is fair price for this? He is asking near 28k on ebay obo. Here is an example of a luminous version that appears to be very clean but again I prefer patina. Opinions? 23.5k? rip off? http://www.10pastten.com/inventory/d...?item_id=TA446 I check the vintage market and steves website everyday looking for the perfect one and sometimes on ebay. Any other suggestion on where I might be able to find one from a reputable place or seller? I am willing to fly anywhere in the US to see one. I am trying to gather as much information as I can and look for as many examples to choose from as this will be one of the biggest purchases of my life! Give me everything you know, pictures, links...etc, nothing will go to waste. Thanks so much guys and look forward to sharing this crazy experience with you all. Cheers. David |
4 November 2010, 04:42 AM | #2 |
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Hi David, I can't help with specifics as to 1665s, but Robert Maron's prices seem high for subs I have inquired about. I'm guessing that his 1665 is significantly more expensive than one you could find on TRF or VRF.
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4 November 2010, 04:43 AM | #3 |
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Oh, and good luck on your search! I'm warming to the idea of buying a 1665 also and I'd love to hear more of your quest as it unfolds.
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4 November 2010, 06:49 AM | #4 |
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David,
I was in your shoes a couple years ago and bought mine at the height of the frenzy. You have some things in your favor. Specifically the fact that in the price range you are looking at, you should find a great example. If the dial is not perfect, walk. Look for one with fat lugs and crownguards. Fat crown guards can be a challenge sometimes. Whether the dial has patina or not is a personal preference. Do not buy one with the serial number greater than 5.2 million as many people doubt they were made past this. Make sure it says rolex straight across the back of the case. Buy the seller and get the best example you can afford. Beaumont |
4 November 2010, 09:15 AM | #5 |
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David....
I am no expert and there are surly many more people more knowledgeable then I am.......But I am a big Sea Dweller fan.... (I have a 1665 Great White....The DRSDs are just to much $$ for me.....LOL) Here are some random thoughts...... ~First of all I would be very careful as the DRSD is one of the most "faked" Rolex models out there..... ~Prices have come way down on these watches and a nice example can be had for under 20k....... ~If I were you, I would find a reputable collector and purchase from him (or her) as "dealers" will always want a premium and I've found, over the years, that a good collector is usually more knowledgeable and more honest. (All things being equal.) ~Now I am not a big BOX & PAPERS fan, but with a DRSD I would make an exception......Being that "authenticity" seems always to be an issue with these watches, I would recommend paying a few more $$$ and getting B&P or even better, recent ROLEX service paper work. ~And I'm sure I don't have to tell you that: The watch you buy today, may be the watch you have to sell tomorrow...And a DRSD with "Issues" is a hard sell..... ~I'm not a big fan of "Dark" patina on these watches, but that's personal preference.... ~Also, "luminous" is different from "Luminova"....The second link you posted had a watch that was indeed Tritium.... ~I would stay away from ebay...... ~Why not put a WTB ad out there???? ~And remember....Patience, Patience, Patience.... I hope this helped a little.... Good luck..... |
4 November 2010, 03:13 PM | #6 |
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Thanks guys for your advice and information it has been helpful. I am now trying to understand this luminous tritium dial vs the tritium dial with patina. Where did the luminous dial come from? From my understanding during a service Rolex just added luminous paint over the original plots and hands and did not replace the actual dial with new luminous version. Is this correct? If this is the case I imagine the luminous dial is less valuable compared to the original. It is clear this watch is very difficult to find in the price range I am looking for and in the condition I prefer, maybe a meters first 1680 red "tropical dial" is the way to go...lol
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4 November 2010, 10:02 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
IMO Great advice..... |
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4 November 2010, 10:15 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
2. Luminova dials (a different substance to tritium) have "Swiss" or "Swiss Made" at six o'clock and are only on later produced watches. Some sellers describing a tritium dial may use various terms to describe the amount of discoloration or patina evident on the dial plots. Dials described as "luminous dials" even though they are tritium may appear much whiter and newer than one that has faded or has patina, but both are tritium. Dials with different levels of fade or patina have different attractions to different people, essentially though, I don't think the $$ value would vary too much, given all else is equal. I hope this helps and good luck. |
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4 November 2010, 10:54 PM | #9 |
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Thanks Michael and Clayton for explaining this luminous term for me as now I'm beginning to understand the difference between luminous and luminova. I am used to hearing "creamy white" as the term for describing white plots and not luminous. If the luminous description is to define the tritium color as more white than a dark patina, will the plots and hands eventually begin to change color over time? I realize that the level of patina can vary significantly depending on if it has seen sun light or been stored away, but how has the tritium dial described luminous maintained to be so white? To me it looks like the plots may still glow eventhough tritium only last 12.5 years after production which lead me to believe that the plots were painted over. I guess asking if the dial is untouched should be a first question to the seller considering "original" can be a loose term.
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4 November 2010, 11:14 PM | #10 |
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I do like the dial on that ten past ten
Definitely worth looking around carefully.
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4 November 2010, 11:26 PM | #11 |
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Its the man himself Stevo! Thanks for your input, is it safe to say that Eric Ku only sells all original vintage pieces? Like many have said I need to buy the seller first and I am trying to gather as much information about the company as possible. Thanks!
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5 November 2010, 12:35 PM | #12 |
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Love the DRSD!! Huge congrats on settling on that watch. As many have said... be patient my man... don't jump @ the 1st (few) you see - there will be many tempting offers out there but make sure it's the right one for you. Having said that, have you settled on a dial yet? As you know with vintage it is ALL about the dial/hands. Are you looking for MKII, III, IV etc? It's imperative to know which one you want to go after as the price/value fluctuate quite a bit between them.
Also, my advice would be to make sure you get some provenance with the piece, for me original box/papers are a must have for any vintage watch. You'll find that box/papers with vintage will add quite a bit of value to the watch. When I almost went with a DRSD (while I was on the hunt for my 6263) I had a MKIV in my hands (the most stunning evenly distributed patina I've seen) - the price was 22000 and it was a full set with box and papers. This was in August. I think if you wait for the right one for the right price with the right provenance you will be good to go. Good luck - maybe we'll find a couple on our hunt next weekend. BTW I found an old thread with 3-4 more vintage shops listed here in DC... so we should have quite the fun day looking around! |
5 November 2010, 01:03 PM | #13 | |
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Great Advice Sunny, your becoming a vintage Rolex guru if you haven't noticed! 22k with box and papers! it appears the prices have gone up or I am not looking in the right place...lol Im undecided between the MKIII and MKIV dial as these are probably more in my price range but I am leaning on the MKIII dial because the larger "2000ft = 610m" on the MKIV looks a little odd to me. I think whichever has a better condition dial/hands/ and case will be the deciding factor. Worse case scenario if the funds are not there I will settle for a 1680 red, meters first. I will be pretty happy if we can find one on our search on Saturday as I really want to try one on first...lol PM me with the details about the get together I am looking forward to it. David |
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6 November 2010, 12:40 AM | #14 |
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Please for yours infrmations read this
http://www.doubleredseadweller.com/ I think DRSD are very desiderable, nowadays they are cheaper then 2 years ago, maybe it is the right time to buy one in mint conditions for a good price!
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9 November 2010, 01:38 PM | #15 |
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I would love to see a DRSD for 22-23k with box and papers in pristine shape. I have seen ones with service papers for that price but not with papers and box--only for twice that-40's. It is very difficult to find one that is in great shape and not overpolished or chewed up for that matter. I have been looking for a long time myself. There is a lot of grabage out there so be careful.
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9 November 2010, 06:37 PM | #16 |
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http://www.network54.com/Forum/20767...+DRSD+mk3+1972
This is a great watch, I saw it in person, all correct... high quality high price.
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9 November 2010, 10:52 PM | #17 | |
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10 November 2010, 08:41 PM | #18 |
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What risk???
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10 November 2010, 10:07 PM | #19 |
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10 November 2010, 10:14 PM | #20 |
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Definitely true--it happened to me on one I bought from Canada. An attorney for Rolex NY ended up sending me a letter. After 4 or 5 days they finally agreed to release the watch-which was held up in cutoms- and send back to the seller in Canada. It was a bit scary--thought I was out of 7500!!!
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10 November 2010, 10:47 PM | #21 |
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It is very strange. I don't understand how this is the law, and I work with intellectual property issues for a living (although admittedly less on the TM side). Obviously, it would be trademark infringement if it were a fake Rolex you were trying to import. But I just don't get what the problem is with importing a genuine, used Rolex. The transaction would be fine if conducted within the U.S. What is it about importation that makes it a problem? I need to figure this one out one of these days.
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10 November 2010, 10:54 PM | #22 |
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You seem to be heading down the right track with your research. I would highly recommend buying from a reputable seller/broker, it might costs you a bit more but at least you know you are getting a 100% genuine product.
My only kind advice would be to skip the whole double-red thing and get yourself two vintage Rolex instead, e.g. a 16520 AND a 1665 SD Great White, here is a photo of mine: |
10 November 2010, 11:26 PM | #23 | |
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Hey Patrick if I remember correctly you were searching for a 16520 just like me at one point. I have been flipping back and forth between the 16520 now or continue saving and DRSD later. For me its a little different as I always seem to regret settling for something to get it now then to just save up for what I really want. I want to save myself the headache of having to sell a watch so I decided to aim big. I do not get to wear my watches very often as I once posted the most I could get in a month is 6 days so for the those 6 days I want something special. Thanks for your advice and congrats on your 1665 its a beauty! ~David |
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11 November 2010, 02:41 AM | #24 |
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I know italian people living in USA who travel often... I can't see any risk problem
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11 November 2010, 10:20 AM | #25 | |
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11 November 2010, 10:39 AM | #26 |
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13 November 2010, 02:00 AM | #27 |
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Sad eat it... but I know the seller as a GOOD GUY, a friend of mine...
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22 November 2010, 03:41 AM | #28 |
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Hi David, any new news on your search? Are you having difficulty finding "the one"? Curious as a DRSD will be my next big purchase if/when I put together the funds. Must feed the addiction!
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22 November 2010, 05:17 AM | #29 |
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Hi David - I gotta say the search is gonna be exciting. I agree with you on the patina. I love the vintage look it gives the watch. The colour to me looks so cool beside the black and red. For what its worth... I saw one online that sold at a christies auction for 19k with box and papers. (from what I remember) If you like I can try and search my history to try and find it
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22 November 2010, 05:56 AM | #30 |
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Yes it is. If Eric is selling the watch just send the money and don't worry about anything. He's one of the most well respected dealers in the community.
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