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Old 11 October 2016, 12:54 AM   #1
sbusch
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New to vintage - can someone explain the price difference in these two 1680's?

I have been scouring the For Sale forum trying to find a 1680 and am having a hard time understanding where the large price swings come from and was hoping someone could shed some light.

Looking at these two 1680's found in the For Sale section, could someone comment why one is $4k more then the other? Just trying to better understand for future purchasing, both watches are beautiful and look the same to me. Thanks.



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Old 11 October 2016, 04:16 AM   #2
MorningTundra
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Out of curiosity, which is the higher of the two?

... I'm going to guess, the second?
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Old 11 October 2016, 04:43 AM   #3
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Out of curiosity, which is the higher of the two?

... I'm going to guess, the second?
I would've thought so, too, but the first one is higher priced.
Of course, the first one (though, not shown here) also comes with original bracelet (which adds another $1k to the price), and all papers...which adds however much one thinks is important.
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Old 11 October 2016, 04:56 AM   #4
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People can ask what they want.
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Old 11 October 2016, 05:09 AM   #5
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Personally, I'm willing to pay a premium for matching box and papers...


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Old 11 October 2016, 07:03 AM   #6
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I much prefer the second one, especially for the money and despite the slight corrosion/oxidation on the hands. The case is fatter and sharper, better bezel insert, and the patina is a little nicer and matching. The tops of the lugs on the first one also look as if they've been polished, based on the photo anyway. Also, the hands on the more expensive one might be replacements. Hard to tell for sure, but they look a little whiter than the hour plots, although it could be the lighting. (A decent 93150 bracelet can be had for $700ish.)

I've had several vintage watches with boxes and papers and I always love them at first. But then after a while, as the box and papers stay in a dark closet, I wonder, was that really worth all that extra money? Not for me. Now I'll only buy a vintage piece without papers/boxes, unless the price difference is minimal. Watch condition is paramount, of course.
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Old 11 October 2016, 08:19 AM   #7
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I much prefer the second one, especially for the money and despite the slight corrosion/oxidation on the hands. The case is fatter and sharper, better bezel insert, and the patina is a little nicer and matching. The tops of the lugs on the first one also look as if they've been polished, based on the photo anyway. Also, the hands on the more expensive one might be replacements. Hard to tell for sure, but they look a little whiter than the hour plots, although it could be the lighting. (A decent 93150 bracelet can be had for $700ish.)

I've had several vintage watches with boxes and papers and I always love them at first. But then after a while, as the box and papers stay in a dark closet, I wonder, was that really worth all that extra money? Not for me. Now I'll only buy a vintage piece without papers/boxes, unless the price difference is minimal. Watch condition is paramount, of course.
I don't believe that "better bezel insert" on the second watch is an original period insert.
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Old 11 October 2016, 09:50 AM   #8
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The second picture is MK 1 for the 1680!white
you see the L letter is under in the middle of coronet
and = under i the middle of A
But the first is not , there a big differnt on 1680 white right now !
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Old 11 October 2016, 10:49 AM   #9
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The second is indeed a MK 1 with the centered L.

I think the first is a MK2 or MK3. Don't think it's a fake or service dial with the open 6s.

I am not well versed enough to know the price diff between the different MKs.

I see broader and narrower 4 on the bezel. Anyone know the diff?

Let me know how I did on the quiz.
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Old 11 October 2016, 11:12 AM   #10
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I don't believe that "better bezel insert" on the second watch is an original period insert.
Possibly from Yuki. I see what you mean as the depth of color seems wrong.
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Old 11 October 2016, 03:29 PM   #11
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Possibly from Yuki. I see what you mean as the depth of color seems wrong.


No. Springer didn't mean it was fake, just service replacement flat 4 mid font. It should be mark3 FF like the top watch.


I blame it on the autoconnect.
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Old 11 October 2016, 09:07 PM   #12
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Originality matters most in vintage values - and when that's coupled with relative rarity, the price can easily be many times more than other examples.

The trick here (for this who are new to vintage) is spotting replacement parts that aren't disclosed by a seller. So if you're seeking the best vintage options I say it's most important to only deal with a trusted seller who is talented at verifying full pedigree.
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Old 11 October 2016, 09:32 PM   #13
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To me the 1st one has a MK2 dial with MK3 insert while the 2nd has a MK1 dial with a replacemement or service insert (early 80's). The price difference essentialy comes from the box + papers attached to the 1st one.
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Old 11 October 2016, 11:46 PM   #14
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I would've thought so, too, but the first one is higher priced.
Of course, the first one (though, not shown here) also comes with original bracelet (which adds another $1k to the price), and all papers...which adds however much one thinks is important.
Those (all) papers original to the watch is worth a whole bundle of $$$ esp. when it comes to vintage.

So to break it down. Wrong bezel -$1K. Bracelet +$1K. Papers +$2K. Sound about right?
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Old 12 October 2016, 05:43 AM   #15
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Those (all) papers original to the watch is worth a whole bundle of $$$ esp. when it comes to vintage.

So to break it down. Wrong bezel -$1K. Bracelet +$1K. Papers +$2K. Sound about right?
No, I wouldn't agree with that, and keep in mind that the most important parts of these vintage Subs (dial/hands and case) are not equal. The second watch has a better case and a nicer overall look, IMHO. However, I would definitely want to see better and more photos to be sure.

Also, I wouldn't call that bezel insert on the second watch "wrong." If it was a thin-font replacement with a luminova pearl it would bug me, but I think the current insert on the watch looks good, especially the patina on the tritium (perhaps a personal perference). As for a bracelet, I just bought a very nice used 93150 bracelet with 580 ends and 12 links for $650. They can be had for well under $1K if you're patient.
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Old 12 October 2016, 05:11 PM   #16
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Also, I wouldn't call that bezel insert on the second watch "wrong." If it was a thin-font replacement with a luminova pearl it would bug me, but I think the current insert on the watch looks good, especially the patina on the tritium (perhaps a personal perference). As for a bracelet, I just bought a very nice used 93150 bracelet with 580 ends and 12 links for $650. They can be had for well under $1K if you're patient.
Sorry but I do not entirely share your POV.

Wright or wrong ? Well it is either a Rolex or a Tudor insert, but not corresponding to an MK1 white 1680. This thread should bring a light on the matter : http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?p=5260397

The aged tritium pearl does not bring any sort of evidence as they can be easily swapped. However this sort of insert (with a flat four shape) were produced in the 80’s and fitted with tritium (not luminova)
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Old 13 October 2016, 12:25 AM   #17
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Sorry but I do not entirely share your POV.

Wright or wrong ? Well it is either a Rolex or a Tudor insert, but not corresponding to an MK1 white 1680. This thread should bring a light on the matter : http://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?p=5260397

The aged tritium pearl does not bring any sort of evidence as they can be easily swapped. However this sort of insert (with a flat four shape) were produced in the 80’s and fitted with tritium (not luminova)
I don't consider an authentic Rolex part "wrong" under any circumstance. It's just been replaced, most likely during service. Inserts and bracelets are easily swapped, so I never sweat over those parts. They're like tires on a vintage car. Nice to have the originals, but replacements work too. The dial/hands and case ... that's another story.
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