How old is old?

[Jacksh]

Hi everyone,
Looking for a second hand 36 DD..the price difference is substantial as well as their age. What should I look for when buying a DD? Where is the sweet spot regarding production year vs price?
Are there any other issues I should consider beside price and production year (technical stuff, not gold/dial color). Thanks


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[joli160]

Many things to consider;
Plexi or sapphire, quickset, hollow bracelet or solid, clasp etc etc.
If you elaborate what is it you want or not, than you will get a better advice

[MonBK]

Anything below the P series is usually much cheaper.

[JohnnyNoDate]

The early 2000’s are a sweet spot for DD’s: plexi, quickest, lume, and solid bracelet for around $11-12k.

Older references come with less gold and more charm for around the same price.

The current references are shiny and new for $15k and up.

[MonBK]

Originally Posted by JohnnyNoDate

The early 2000’s are a sweet spot for DD’s: plexi, quickest, lume, and solid bracelet for around $11-12k.

Older references come with less gold and more charm for around the same price.

The current references are shiny and new for $15k and up.

No plexi on the early 2000's.

[Jacksh]

I would like to have a sapphire glass and a solid links bracelet...I assume that quick set is already included in those references with the above mentioned criteria.


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[DHISTORY]

For a Day-Date I’d go for a birth year model to have a nice story behind it.
But if that doesn’t matter, then that first year with sapphire.

[Jacksh]

When was the solid links bracelet was first produced?


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[MonBK]

Originally Posted by jacksh

when was the solid links bracelet was first produced?


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p

[Jacksh]

Originally Posted by MonBK

p

Thanks


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[upsidedownbelt]

I had a 1803 non quickset and got rid of it because it was such a pain to set.

[joli160]

Originally Posted by Jacksh

I would like to have a sapphire glass and a solid links bracelet...I assume that quick set is already included in those references with the above mentioned criteria.


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6 digit reference

[jimcameron]

I'd shop the "package" rather than the year. Appearance, condition, dial, box, papers, service history, etc. would be more important to me than reference.

[Maiden]

^^^^^ THIS^^^^^


Hi I bought a 18238 about a year ago. You mention the "sweet spot" and I think that is what you need to determine for yourself. My sweet spot or minimum criteria was sapphire glass and double quickset. I also wanted the best condition model I could find. Therefore, I knew starting the hunt, it would be a 18238 or 118238.

I was very lucky in that my watch connection came into possession of a mint 18238 with a tapestry dial. It also had a recent full service from Rolex with all supporting documentation. He also had a good condition 118238. It was about 6 k more I think. It was tempting as this model also had the solid links and upgraded clasp. The challenge was this watch visibly more worn.

I had them both in hand, and in all honesty could not really feel a difference in the weight. And the 18238 actually felt more solid as it was a safe queen and hardly ever worn. Then I fell in love with the tapestry dial and the raised sapphire glass (its flat sapphire on the 118238) and it became an easy choice.

YMMV however, so determine what your minimum criteria is and take your time looking around. I think really though the CONDITION of the watch is key. Whatever model you choose, get the best condition possible as that's where the value and long term durability lies. A few pics of my 18238.

[Speedy123360]

I’ve seen 85-87 with near perfect bands it’s just a matter of how well it was taken care of.

[Maiden]

Originally Posted by Speedy123360

I’ve seen 85-87 with near perfect bands it’s just a matter of how well it was taken care of.

Yep keep it clean, wear it snug and it will last 30 plus years no problem.

[Jacksh]

Originally Posted by Maiden

^^^^^ THIS^^^^^


Hi I bought a 18238 about a year ago. You mention the "sweet spot" and I think that is what you need to determine for yourself. My sweet spot or minimum criteria was sapphire glass and double quickset. I also wanted the best condition model I could find. Therefore, I knew starting the hunt, it would be a 18238 or 118238.

I was very lucky in that my watch connection came into possession of a mint 18238 with a tapestry dial. It also had a recent full service from Rolex with all supporting documentation. He also had a good condition 118238. It was about 6 k more I think. It was tempting as this model also had the solid links and upgraded clasp. The challenge was this watch visibly more worn.

I had them both in hand, and in all honesty could not really feel a difference in the weight. And the 18238 actually felt more solid as it was a safe queen and hardly ever worn. Then I fell in love with the tapestry dial and the raised sapphire glass (its flat sapphire on the 118238) and it became an easy choice.

YMMV however, so determine what your minimum criteria is and take your time looking around. I think really though the CONDITION of the watch is key. Whatever model you choose, get the best condition possible as that's where the value and long term durability lies. A few pics of my 18238.

Great info, absolutely superb watch


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[Jacksh]

https://static.watchtime.com/wp-cont...intage_560.jpg

All the new features sound great, but what a dial this one has...


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