Sizing a Daytona bracelet

[kauffee]

So Daytona C comes with 5 links at 6:00 and 7 links at 12:00. I removed one link from each side (so I have 4 and 6) and the size is just about perfect with the Easylink extended (which I didn't realize when I was sizing the bracelet). I would like to have it be the size the same as it is now but have the benefit of easylink to loosen it on hot days. So I'm thinking that means add a link back and move the microadjust to the shorter position.

Would I add a link back to the 12:00 side? That would make it 4 and 7, which seems odd. But most recommend removing 6:00 side first, so that would be correct.

Alternatively, should I just move the microadjust to the longer position and leave the links as they are? Then when I engage the Easylink I should be pretty similar, right?

[nyc2la]

Originally Posted by kauffee

So Daytona C comes with 5 links at 6:00 and 7 links at 12:00. I removed one link from each side (so I have 4 and 6) and the size is just about perfect with the Easylink extended (which I didn't realize when I was sizing the bracelet). I would like to have it be the size the same as it is now but have the benefit of easylink to loosen it on hot days. So I'm thinking that means add a link back and move the microadjust to the shorter position.

Would I add a link back to the 12:00 side? That would make it 4 and 7, which seems odd. But most recommend removing 6:00 side first, so that would be correct.

Alternatively, should I just move the microadjust to the longer position and leave the links as they are? Then when I engage the Easylink I should be pretty similar, right?

I have one link out of mine, and it was removed from the 6 o'clock side. Fits perfectly.

[RJRJRJ]

I have 5 at 6 oclock and 6 at 12. Balances well.

[FiguredMaple]

What is the size of your wrist?
Typically you want the clasp in the center of the bottom of your wrist.

[T01]

Take it to an AD and have them size it for you.

[kauffee]

My wrist is about 7" I think. The blade of the clasp is pretty well centered now.

And no, I won't take it to an AD. My Submariner has 2 slightly mangled screw heads from the "professional" at the AD. When I removed the links myself last week the screws are still perfect.

[RJRJRJ]

Originally Posted by FiguredMaple

What is the size of your wrist?
Typically you want the clasp in the center of the bottom of your wrist.

I would add that you want the inner part of the clasp centered. The outer part is mostly just for looks, but the inner part is what actually sits against your wrist and it's maybe 1cm longer on the 12 o'clock side.

[RJRJRJ]

Originally Posted by kauffee

My wrist is about 7" I think. The blade of the clasp is pretty well centered now.

And no, I won't take it to an AD. My Submariner has 2 slightly mangled screw heads from the "professional" at the AD. When I removed the links myself last week the screws are still perfect.

My wrist is around the same size, and the setup I posted above works for me. 5 at 6, 6 at 12.

[kauffee]

Originally Posted by RJRJRJ

My wrist is around the same size, and the setup I posted above works for me. 5 at 6, 6 at 12.

Good to know. I may just have to spend a few minutes and try it multiple ways.

[037]

The adjustments inside the clasp are worth 3.5mm each, or 7mm total. The Easylink is 5mm when open. Each full bracelet link is 10mm. The half-link from a Submariner bracelet is 7mm.

If you're in the center pin on the clasp and move to the outer pin, then close the Easylink, you'll lose 1.5mm from where you are now: (+3.5) + (-5) = (-1.5)

If you're in the center pin and move to the inside pin, close the Easylink and add a full link, you'll gain 1.5mm from where you are now: (-3.5) + (-5) + (+10) = (+1.5)

I assume you have either a Rolex 3200 or Bergeon 7825 spring bar tool to move the clasp adjustment spring bar?

[kauffee]

Originally Posted by 037

The adjustments inside the clasp are worth 3.5mm each, or 7mm total. The Easylink is 5mm when open. Each full bracelet link is 10mm. The half-link from a Submariner bracelet is 7mm.

If you're in the center pin on the clasp and move to the outer pin, then close the Easylink, you'll lose 1.5mm from where you are now: (+3.5) + (-5) = (-1.5)

If you're in the center pin and move to the inside pin, close the Easylink and add a full link, you'll gain 1.5mm from where you are now: (-3.5) + (-5) + (+10) = (+1.5)

I assume you have either a Rolex 3200 or Bergeon 7825 spring bar tool to move the clasp adjustment spring bar?

Thanks this is very helpful. Yes, Bergeon 7825 currently en route.

This also makes me think I might be better off where I am. I don't think I want it any tighter for regular use, but any looser and the Easylink will likely make it way too loose. In that case, what's the point?

[037]

Originally Posted by kauffee

Thanks this is very helpful. Yes, Bergeon 7825 currently en route.

This also makes me think I might be better off where I am. I don't think I want it any tighter for regular use, but any looser and the Easylink will likely make it way too loose. In that case, what's the point?

Tough call. Adding or reducing 1.5mm can make a noticeable difference in how it wears.

The 7825 will likely prove itself useful at some point. In the summer I typically add 1.5mm to my setup and go back in the winter. I rarely use the Easylink for expansion as 5mm is simply too much to add in one shot.

[slillestrand]

I made this sizing chart. Started the measurements by taking out two links and went from there.

Rolex Daytona / Oyster w/Flip Lock Sizing Chart
Measurements in millimeters:
Position on clasp
One / Two / Three
Minus two links
Flip Lock closed 0 / 3.25 / 6.5
Flip Lock open 5 / 8.25 / 11.5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Minus one link
Flip Lock closed 10 / 13.25 / 16.5
Flip Lock open 15 / 18.25 / 21.5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Full Bracelet
Flip Lock closed 20 / 23.25 / 26.5
Flip Lock open 25 / 28.25 / 31.5


Good luck!
Scott

[Nikrnic]

I had mine sized (not a daytona) with easy link folded in and one to two more links max on the 12 side and did move micro adjustment out.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[DanMdR]

Source a half link and play around with that plus the micro adjust holes. Took me a half link and a few weeks playing around with everything to find the right combination for my Explorer. Since the Half link is brushed and the Daytona has PCL’s, I’d suggest putting the half link on the 12 o’clock side so it’s hidden under the clasp. Would be completely hidden, especially if you move all the way in on the micro adjust holes.

[TheWatchEnthusiast]

Originally Posted by kauffee

So Daytona C comes with 5 links at 6:00 and 7 links at 12:00. I removed one link from each side (so I have 4 and 6) and the size is just about perfect with the Easylink extended (which I didn't realize when I was sizing the bracelet). I would like to have it be the size the same as it is now but have the benefit of easylink to loosen it on hot days. So I'm thinking that means add a link back and move the microadjust to the shorter position.



Would I add a link back to the 12:00 side? That would make it 4 and 7, which seems odd. But most recommend removing 6:00 side first, so that would be correct.



Alternatively, should I just move the microadjust to the longer position and leave the links as they are? Then when I engage the Easylink I should be pretty similar, right?

In theory either way would work. But I found out that the micro adjust is less than the extension.
I would add a link on the 12 o’clock and move the micro adjust ( back tight) then close the extension. It will ( should ) be a just little looser than it is now in the middle position and the extension open.
Or move the micro adjust loose and close the extension. That will result to a smidge tighter fit that it is now.
Your choice




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[jlpierce70]

Originally Posted by 037

the adjustments inside the clasp are worth 3.5mm each, or 7mm total. The easylink is 5mm when open. Each full bracelet link is 10mm. The half-link from a submariner bracelet is 7mm.

If you're in the center pin on the clasp and move to the outer pin, then close the easylink, you'll lose 1.5mm from where you are now: (+3.5) + (-5) = (-1.5)

if you're in the center pin and move to the inside pin, close the easylink and add a full link, you'll gain 1.5mm from where you are now: (-3.5) + (-5) + (+10) = (+1.5)

i assume you have either a rolex 3200 or bergeon 7825 spring bar tool to move the clasp adjustment spring bar?

thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!