Where to go next in collection

[Kliminator]

Hi everyone - thinking about where to go next in my collection. There's a big milestone coming up that I want to get a watch to commemorate. I currently have the following:

- AP RO 15450 (White)
- Rolex Ceramic BLRO
- Rolex YG DD40 (Silver Romans)
- Panerai Luminor Due PAM728 (Blue Dial)
- Rolex Tritium Sub No Date 14060

Some additional details:

- I am leaning towards something sport / steel in the $5k-$15k range
- I typically dress casually -- am usually only dressed up for a wedding or rare occasion of going to a show @ a theater
- I am fine sourcing from an AD or via grey market
- My wrists are on the smaller side (~6.3 in) so 40mm or less is typically the sweet spot / my preference

Some watches that have crossed my mind :

BLNR - Might be redudant as I already have a ceramic GMT. If I were to go with this watch I feel like I should go for the oyster model to switch it up. This would require me to for sure go grey as oyster isn't an option at AD anymore

Datejust 41 - Recently began thinking about this as a potential option

Explorer - 39mm is a good size, low profile / understated

Vintage Buckley Datejust - I've always thought these are insanely beautiful when seeing them online

Ceramic Daytona - A guy can dream, right?

Feel free to make a suggestion if there's something else I should be considering that would be a good addition to my collection

I've also explored the option of picking something up from another brand (GS, Lange, Panerai).

Appreciate the feedback!

[Santiago32]

A chrono complication will fit nicely in your collection. Doesn’t necessarily have to be a Daytona. Perhaps a Zenith El Primero? Otherwise, a BLNR would be great. I’ve seen the BLNR on oyster and BLRO in person and the bracelet makes them feel like completely different watches.

[42itus]

I would definitely suggest you check out GS. Amazing dials and I love the Spring Drive.

What do you think about Milgauss Z Blue?


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[Kliminator]

Originally Posted by 42itus

I would definitely suggest you check out GS. Amazing dials and I love the Spring Drive.

What do you think about Milgauss Z Blue?


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I have checked out GS at a local dealer. While I'm def intrigued (toyed with the idea of picking up the peacock at one point and then the blue 'seasons' collection) - the watches I've seen in the metal tend to be pretty thick / chunky @ ~14mm thick. GMTs. I tried on the snowflake too but unfortunately wasn't a fan of how light it was on the wrist due to the Ti (which I know some folks love)

The finishing and dials have been great but just wish they were a little thinner.

I know a bunch of folks love the Milgauss (history / tech perspective, etc) but for some reason aesthetically it never did anything for me

[horseShu]

Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Seems to be growing in popularity

[Kliminator]

Originally Posted by Santiago32

A chrono complication will fit nicely in your collection. Doesn’t necessarily have to be a Daytona. Perhaps a Zenith El Primero? Otherwise, a BLNR would be great. I’ve seen the BLNR on oyster and BLRO in person and the bracelet makes them feel like completely different watches.

Yeah on the oyster I'm less concerned about redundancy. On a jubilee, however - I would be

[faz]

Nice collection.

Bluesy will be a great addition. Beautiful dial.

Hulk (a bit out of your suggested price range now.)

And if venturing out of Rolex (why not), Patek Calatrava fits nicely into any collection. (Wear T-shirt and shorts, and this watch, why not... and you get to brag about owning a Patek at WIS gatherings.)

[Kliminator]

Originally Posted by faz

Nice collection.

Bluesy will be a great addition. Beautiful dial.

Hulk (a bit out of your suggested price range now.)

And if venturing out of Rolex (why not), Patek Calatrava fits nicely into any collection. (Wear T-shirt and shorts, and this watch, why not... and you get to brag about owning a Patek at WIS gatherings.)

Haha thanks for the recs. I did look into the 5196g actually... Are these pretty easy to source from an AD or is it just like everything else? Doesn't this technically fall out of my range as well?

Re: bluesy - never considered TT but would be curious to see it on the wrist. I originally never thought I'd like the look of gold on me but totally changed when I went to check out the DD40 in person

Re: hulk - out of price range and while I like it in pics I see online, I feel like I'd have issues working the green into my typical clothing / outfits

[Sandpit]

Originally Posted by Kliminator

Hi everyone - thinking about where to go next in my collection. There's a big milestone coming up that I want to get a watch to commemorate. I currently have the following:

- AP RO 15450 (White)
- Rolex Ceramic BLRO
- Rolex YG DD40 (Silver Romans)
- Panerai Luminor Due PAM728 (Blue Dial)
- Rolex Tritium Sub No Date 14060

Some additional details:

- I am leaning towards something sport / steel in the $5k-$15k range
- I typically dress casually -- am usually only dressed up for a wedding or rare occasion of going to a show @ a theater
- I am fine sourcing from an AD or via grey market
- My wrists are on the smaller side (~6.3 in) so 40mm or less is typically the sweet spot / my preference

Some watches that have crossed my mind :

BLNR - Might be redudant as I already have a ceramic GMT. If I were to go with this watch I feel like I should go for the oyster model to switch it up. This would require me to for sure go grey as oyster isn't an option at AD anymore

Datejust 41 - Recently began thinking about this as a potential option

Explorer - 39mm is a good size, low profile / understated

Vintage Buckley Datejust - I've always thought these are insanely beautiful when seeing them online

Ceramic Daytona - A guy can dream, right?

Feel free to make a suggestion if there's something else I should be considering that would be a good addition to my collection

I've also explored the option of picking something up from another brand (GS, Lange, Panerai).

Appreciate the feedback!

My 2 cents FWIW...

I think you have space for a chronograph and also for a pure dress watch.

I don't see the point in the DJ41 when you have the DD40. You might also struggle with the size (on oyster - Jubilee would be fine i think).

On the lower end of the scale I'd throw in a Speedmaster (maybe a FOIS or a 321 if you can get one). Super versatile watch which would fit in nicely. On the other end I'd say look at the new 40mm JLC Master Calendar Chronograph.

On the dress watch side, maybe look at a Lange (1815 up/down is one of my all time favourites) or a Calatrava 5196. Both could easily be switched up from dressy to more casual with a simple strap change. In fact, if you look at the Patek section here somebody recently changed the 5196 strap which totally changed the characterstics of the watch.

[faz]

Originally Posted by Kliminator

Haha thanks for the recs. I did look into the 5196g actually... Are these pretty easy to source from an AD or is it just like everything else? Doesn't this technically fall out of my range as well?

Re: bluesy - never considered TT but would be curious to see it on the wrist. I originally never thought I'd like the look of gold on me but totally changed when I went to check out the DD40 in person

Re: hulk - out of price range and while I like it in pics I see online, I feel like I'd have issues working the green into my typical clothing / outfits

With Patek I meant a used one.

But honestly, bluesy 116613LB would be my top pick from the ones I suggested.




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[Kliminator]

Originally Posted by Sandpit

My 2 cents FWIW...

I think you have space for a chronograph and also for a pure dress watch.

I don't see the point in the DJ41 when you have the DD40. You might also struggle with the size (on oyster - Jubilee would be fine i think).

On the lower end of the scale I'd throw in a Speedmaster (maybe a FOIS or a 321 if you can get one). Super versatile watch which would fit in nicely. On the other end I'd say look at the new 40mm JLC Master Calendar Chronograph.

On the dress watch side, maybe look at a Lange (1815 up/down is one of my all time favourites) or a Calatrava 5196. Both could easily be switched up from dressy to more casual with a simple strap change. In fact, if you look at the Patek section here somebody recently changed the 5196 strap which totally changed the characterstics of the watch.

I saw that post actually. There was also another thread linked in there about Calatrava strap options.

I did have a speedy reduced (preferred this due to size) but moved it last year bc it didn't get much wear

[42itus]

Originally Posted by Kliminator

Haha thanks for the recs. I did look into the 5196g actually... Are these pretty easy to source from an AD or is it just like everything else? Doesn't this technically fall out of my range as well?

Re: bluesy - never considered TT but would be curious to see it on the wrist. I originally never thought I'd like the look of gold on me but totally changed when I went to check out the DD40 in person

Re: hulk - out of price range and while I like it in pics I see online, I feel like I'd have issues working the green into my typical clothing / outfits

Bluesy. Definitely go look at a Bluesy. It’s a fantastic combination.


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[Sandpit]

Originally Posted by Kliminator

I saw that post actually. There was also another thread linked in there about Calatrava strap options.

I did have a speedy reduced (preferred this due to size) but moved in last year bc it didn't get much wear

The reduced is a bit of an odd looking watch to me. The CK2998 in blue looks great though.

But yeah, on the Calatrava, that post made me really consider something like that. Maybe in a few years when I'm slightly more "matured" i think.

On price, your best bet might be used / grey on Lange / Patek. Patek prices are going up a lot in October though so could be a good time to jump.

[daOnlyBG]

The one Zenith El Primero watch I'm a big fan of is the "De Luca." I do think that aesthetic would overlap some of your other pieces. Fortunately there are other solid chronographs.

I cannot recommend the Breitling reissues enough. I've held them in my hand and played with the chronograph pushers. Fantastic watches- especially the 1953 765 AVI reissue:



And from another well-known chronograph manufacturer, the Heuer Autavia Heritage Calibre 2, "Hodinkee" special:



I think that orange hand makes all the difference.

Of course, if you're a Buckley dial fan like myself... you might want to skip the DJ36 and opt for a vintage Day-Date 1803. They're a bitch to set the day/date, but man...is there anything as regal as the Swiss crown with enamel Roman numerals?



Sure, you already have a DD40, but hey, the older ones have that much more charm. You could always sell the DD40 and go hard on another chronograph or something.

[danwang0520]

I would add a chronograph or dress watch to your collection.......
as for the dress watch, it could be the tradition sense or an annual calendar/perpetual calendar complication~

[Yaz]

Originally Posted by horseShu

Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Seems to be growing in popularity

Love it !


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[Yaz]

Change a little bit or go vintage.
It could be a nice addition to your collection...but as usual, pick what you want !

Vacheron Constantin Overseas are really top notch watches.
More dressy, you could go with a JLC MUT Moonphase or a Lange Saxonia...

Or go vintage with a 36mm DateJust or Day Date
Here is my 16030 Buckley Dial...


In any case, you have a lot of good choices out there...
Happy hunting !



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[mrockperez]

My vote is to go for a chronograph, either a Daytona C or honestly the heritage and looks of a omega speedmaster, either the professional or one of the dark sides would be a great addition.

[Dr.Stu]

Within Rolex, if a Daytona is unobtainable for you (you could add a chronograph unless you don't like them), don't overlook the YM rhodium dial/platinum bezel. The watch is spectacular; goes dressy or casual and, you don't see them everywhere. Would probably be my #1 recommendation for you to see:

Staying with the no-chrono theme, the VC Overseas is one to see.

If you're open to non-round, you should definitely look at the collection of JLC Reversos. Getting a Duoface would give you 2 watches for one & the watch is a classic.

I also agree that the new 40mm JLC Master Calendar Chronograph (their whole 2020 Master Control line) should be a consideration.

If you want to go for a Speedy, you should try a Sapphire Sandwich on a strap before you write-off the regular size speedy as too big. With the sapphire back it sits thinner on the wrist, and the straps pull straight down, so no worry about end-link overhang. I have a 6 1/2" wrist and that set-up is extremely comfortable for me.

[danwang0520]

Iconic/Notable chronographs include Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, Rolex Daytona, Breitling B01 Chronomat/Navitimer, Tag Heuer, Zenith El Primero........

[Ravager135]

Given your considerations, I'd go with a Datejust 41. You already own a GMT-Master II. Personally, I can't justify buying two of the same watch even if they look a little different. The Explorer doesn't really inspire me. I owned it briefly, but the novelty wore off quick and I flipped it. If you can get a stainless Daytona, go for it, but if you want something now it's probably less realistic without paying way over MSRP.

The Datejust 41 gives you a nice versatile piece. You have your choice of dial color and can configure it to be more sporty (smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet) or more dressy (fluted bezel and Jubilee). I don't think you can lose here. I have the rhodium dial, fluted bezel, Jubilee bracelet variation. It was the watch I wore on my wedding day.

[subprimero]

Omega Speedmaster "First OMEGA In Space" or a non-ceramic Daytona. Both are approx. 40mm.

[JayHantz]

You don't have a TT model, so may I suggest a YM? Rose gold with SS? I think it would complement the collection quite nicely.

[faz]

Originally Posted by JayHantz

You don't have a TT model, so may I suggest a YM? Rose gold with SS? I think it would complement the collection quite nicely.

Beautiful suggestion, high on top of my wishlist and one that I would have recommended too, but OP put in a price range of 5-15k.


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[JayHantz]

Originally Posted by faz

Beautiful suggestion, high on top of my wishlist and one that I would have recommended too, but OP put in a price range of 5-15k.


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I kept it under budget! Rolex quotes it at $14,500


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[macrowatch]

Speedy sapphire for that budget. If budget busting, then a FPJ!

[huncho]

if you're open to two tone i'd suggest a bluesy or two tone daytona

[Lukebennett21]

This may slide in under your desired range but could consider an updated OP 36

[DoctorA]

For $5K- $6k GS You can get a heck of a Watch that does not compromise in any area!
I will have to say though that GS is only for a true watch enthusiast who’s after craftsmanship, mechanics, looks, and doesn’t worry about the “Swiss made” on the dial

[Kliminator]

Originally Posted by daOnlyBG

The one Zenith El Primero watch I'm a big fan of is the "De Luca." I do think that aesthetic would overlap some of your other pieces. Fortunately there are other solid chronographs.

I cannot recommend the Breitling reissues enough. I've held them in my hand and played with the chronograph pushers. Fantastic watches- especially the 1953 765 AVI reissue:



And from another well-known chronograph manufacturer, the Heuer Autavia Heritage Calibre 2, "Hodinkee" special:



I think that orange hand makes all the difference.

Of course, if you're a Buckley dial fan like myself... you might want to skip the DJ36 and opt for a vintage Day-Date 1803. They're a bitch to set the day/date, but man...is there anything as regal as the Swiss crown with enamel Roman numerals?



Sure, you already have a DD40, but hey, the older ones have that much more charm. You could always sell the DD40 and go hard on another chronograph or something.

Thanks for the thoughtful response and recommendations!

That breitling is beautiful but looks like it clocks in at 41mm which might be slightly too large

I'll keep the El Primero in mind

I love Buckley's and day dates but the lack of quick set is a deal breaker for me (a reason I picked 15450 vs 15202 at the time). I know some people keep these vintage models on winders to keep their sanity for setting