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#1 |
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(Beginner's) Macro shot of red paint on 126710BLRO's GMT Hand
Hello all, I'm a novice at macro-photography, and have much to learn. After a little experimenting, though, I was able to get a close-up of the "red paint issue" on the GMT-Master II's GMT hand.
And the issue? There is no issue. Paint makes a nice "dome" shape that peaks at the arrow. ![]() If anyone experienced with photographing watches closely would like to share tips (especially when managing lighting) feel free to drop a line!
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#2 |
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(Beginner's) Macro shot of red paint on 126710BLRO's GMT Hand
Hello, nice shot. Which camera and objective you are using?
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#3 |
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Good effort.
![]() What camera/lens are you using? |
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#4 |
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Was this taken with a macro lens add-on for a cell phone? Genuine question.
Macro photography is difficult. You’ll want a stable tripod, good lighting, and good glass. Try macro extension tubes if you’re not ready to invest in a true macro lens.
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![]() My first try with a 5513 Submariner |
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#6 |
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It was actually with a Canon T6 DSLR and a 50mm Canon f/1.4 lens, using a couple macro "close up" filter lens. To be honest, I think lighting is way more critical than novices make it out to be. Diffusing the light tends to be a challenge... if I'm not mistaken.
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5513 Submariner (cont.) |
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#8 |
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Rather than a close up filter lens, look at extension tubes. Also, focus stacking.
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#9 |
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OK, that is cool. I know individual skills/the "guy behind the camera" is a critical component of taking pics like that, but from what I've seen, your pic had to be taken with some powerful lens, no?
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#10 |
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Thanks, the difficulty is a good illumination and a macro lens. This specific photo was taken w/o focus stacking, which sometimes helps a lot.
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#11 |
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That lume looks like mold! Nice shot.
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![]() 5513 Submariner (cont.) |
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#13 |
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Nice shot. Here’s my BLNR’s blue arrow.
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#14 | |
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Quote:
I'll look into extension tubes- thanks. A big problem I seem to be running into is the depth of field. With a 1.4 aperture (?) I tend to not get much depth, but my understanding tells me that if I go for more aperture, I'll need something else to make up for lost magnification. Am I understanding that trade-off correctly? If so, would the extension tubes help "restore" that magnification problem?
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#15 |
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As a diver I use an underwater camera, which may be a surprise for some here. The Olympus Tough TG-5 which has a macro. Settings: in microscope mode, possibility of focus stacking is very powerful. "Obviously" the illumination and viewing angles are important, to minimise crystal reflections well. I have no professional setup!
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![]() 16710 GMT Master II (stick dial) |
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#17 |
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Great thread....now this is what TRF imho is about. More pics please!
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![]() Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, full view |
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![]() Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, partial view, with laser engraved crown on the crystal, with focus stacking |
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![]() Single Red Sea-Dweller 126600, Mk1, partial shallow angle view with laser engraved crown on the crystal, with focus stacking. The last 3 photos are my first tries for this dial. The sun is a very good and natural light source! |
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#22 | |
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Quote:
With macro, you typically want to stay in the range of f/5.6-11. You’ll need a lot more light than you’re used to. |
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#23 |
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GMT Hand (16710) photo (1) just taken for this thread, light not optimized, with focus stacking, no tripod. F5.6 (aperture), 14.4 mm (focal length) |
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GMT Hand (16710) photo (2) just taken for this thread, light not optimized, with focus stacking, no tripod. F5.6 (aperture), 14.4 mm (focal length) |
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126710blro , blro , gmt hand , photograph |
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