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#1 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: NYC
Posts: 102
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Any tips or tricks to determine if a sub has been polished? (pic inside)
I'm trying to become more knowledgeable on vintage subs, and often see photos of subs that are clearly polished (thin lugs, uneven lugs, etc.). But sometimes I just can't tell. I also often see a sub and think to myself, "wow, those are some fat lugs!", suggesting maybe it wasn't polished or just minimally polished.
For example, here is an image of two subs. ![]() I have a hunch the one on the left is unpolished, and the one on the right has received a polish. But sometimes the seller doesn't know, and other times photos are deceiving. Do you concur on my assessment of these? And generally speaking, are there any tricks or giveaways? Thanks!! |
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#2 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 6,573
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Generally speaking, it takes experience, and it helps to have good photos from various angles. You can look at the width of the lugs, the shape of the lug holes, chamfers, etc. Over-processed images with poor contrast are problematic, like the one on the right. Similarly, the photo on the left is poor because the camera was held very close to the watch, creating foreshortening distortion. With multiple photos from various angles in different types of lighting, you can get an overall feel for the case.
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@oldwatchdan on IG |
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#3 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Germany
Posts: 609
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When I look at a watch, I like it or not.
Polished? Will never understand https://www.instagram.com/vintage_georgex/ |
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#4 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Africa
Posts: 1,135
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Any tips or tricks to determine if a sub has been polished? (pic inside)
I find looking at the shape of the crown guards and the lug holes (are they elongated etc) is the best way to tell.....but that said I don’t think it is a big deal so long as the watch is not overly or badly polished.
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#5 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Real Name: Aaron
Location: CT/NYC
Watch: ing the time!
Posts: 7,084
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I always start at the crown guards. You want that ridge line, which varies on different watch references/years. Polishing of any sort usually removes or softens that line. See attached of my (former) 14060 that I was 99.9 percent sure was unpolished. Next look at the chamfers, lug holes and thickness.
If you've looked at enough vintage/neo-classic sport Rolexes, you start to be able to recognize what appears to have been polished and what hasn't, but it can indeed be tough when it's just been touched up a little. As stated above, you need a series of good photos in natural light from numerous angles. A polished watch is never a deal-breaker from me, anyway, as long as it's been done well and is not over-done. |
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#6 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Japan
Posts: 4,367
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Learning about lug holes will tell you everything you need to know.
Nothing wrong with a well-done polish, though. |
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#7 |
2025 TitaniumYM Pledge Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: NL
Watch: Yachtmaster
Posts: 14,959
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If you can’t tell it doesn’t matter. Than it has been expertly done.
The vast majority if not all of watches on the market have been touched up or polished. Truth is most people don’t buy scratched watches. ![]()
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Day Date 18238, Yachtmaster 16622, Deepsea 116660, Submariner 116619, SkyD 326935, DJ 178271, DJ 69158, Yachtmaster 169622, GMT 116713LN, GMT 126711. |
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#8 |
Banned
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: US
Watch: Gilt
Posts: 1,592
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Lug holes, chamfers, crown guards, and the case back view. Spend your time here. A head on photo, as shown, is probably your worst approach to answer the question.
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#9 |
2025 TitaniumYM Pledge Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Real Name: Ron
Location: Detroitish
Watch: GMT II/Sub/Exp II
Posts: 2,625
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Look at as many examples/pics as you can. You will figure it out over time. Find pics of a NOS or "mint" piece to use as a comparison to the watch you're shopping for. My eyes go directly to the crown guards now.
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#10 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Real Name: Jack
Location: NYC
Watch: 16570, 16710
Posts: 1,535
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Look and handle the watches, thats really they only way to gain experience. the more you see what a mint example looks like, the more you can identify polished, decently polished, over polished pieces. And some people take poor pictures, not saying they do it on purpose, but take note.
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#11 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: ATL
Watch: 126610LV
Posts: 2,783
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Crown guards and lug holes (if they watch has them) are usually easy 'tells' for me. And as always a properly polished Rolex will look no different than an unpolished one.
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#12 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The Empire State
Watch: Many
Posts: 3,481
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A dreadful polishing is one thing, and it's up to you whether you want to buy a watch with such a case. As for looking for telltale signs of a polishing (and I, too, share the belief that over 90% of vintage Rolexes have see a polishing wheel at least once) you HAVE to accept at least one fact. When these old Rolexes came out of the factory, they came out WITH lug widths that didn't match, and crown guards that varied in thickness.
Here's a shot from a Rolex catalogue The 5513 has an upper left lug thinner than the right, and a lower right thinner than the left. The 1680, notice how small the crown guards appear? If you posted either watch here in that state for evaluation, many here would say, "That's definitely been polished. Notice how that lug is thinner? Notice those crown guards that have been WAY overploshed" Point being, these watches weren't ever perfectly symmetrical to begin with. It wasn't until years later when robots took over and every new 27-digit Sub looked exactly the same. [IMG] ![]() |
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#13 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Real Name: Aaron
Location: CT/NYC
Watch: ing the time!
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Great points. See my 5512 from about 1973 (3.7 mil). Look at the top crown guard. It's slightly bigger/thicker than the bottom. I'm confident this Sub has never been polished, but don't know 100 percent, of course. (Owned it for a decade.)
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#14 | |
Banned
Join Date: May 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 70
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This watch has been horrendously polished. This reference never came with chamfers like that.
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#15 |
2025 TitaniumYM Pledge Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Real Name: jP
Location: Texas
Watch: GMT-MASTER
Posts: 17,454
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Determining whether a watch has been refinished or "polished" can be very subjective at times. Personally, I prefer a nice watch, whether polished or not, to a ratty unpolished watch which are usually in poor condition.
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#16 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Real Name: Aaron
Location: CT/NYC
Watch: ing the time!
Posts: 7,084
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Strongly disagree. Would love to see you back up your statement with examples of early ‘70s 5512/5513s with original chamfers that are different. They used to be wider like this, compared to later Subs. Still, I’m always willing to learn something new, so let us know.
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