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Old 24 February 2021, 04:26 AM   #1
stark1
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Yet another AD question (or two)

This is in no way an attempt to stir up the “go grey or go AD” conversation. I’m simply curious to find out more about how AD’s with multiple locations in the same state operate, and whether or not some members here have insight to share, anecdotal or otherwise. I realize businesses are run differently with numerous factors at play; I’m not in any way trying to compare a mom and pop jewelry store with the likes of Tourneau.

Here's the hypothetical backdrop: someone wants a SS Sub, but has no purchase history with any AD’s in the area. This person has all the time in the world and doesn't mind playing "the game", researches and finds that there is an AD that operates 3-4 stores in the area (within an hour of each another). The several stores are family operated and has roots in the communities they serve. Before setting off to meet the SA’s at each of these stores to inquire about said watch, the individual wants to know the following to maximize efficiency and chance of success:

1. If the 3-4 locations are serving different communities, is it plausible to assume that they are independently managed with little to do with one another? I’d assume there's a general manager or owner that oversees operations across all locations, but would assume that this person would not be dug into the minutiae of individual customer requests and whatnot.
2. Do each of the stores get separate shipments of watches (vs watches all get shipped to a centralized location for the AD, then gets distributed to each of their stores)?
3. Is there usually a centralized database of clients across all locations they share? For example, if you buy something at one store, then go to another and buy something else, can they make that connection easily?

Boiling it down: is there a point to developing a relationship with multiple of these stores, or more advantageous to stick with just one? Conventional wisdom would indicate that the more locations one “schmoozes”, the higher one’s chances. But could it actually be counterintuitive and a total waste of time?

I realize a lot of the above is case by case, and super anecdotal; I’m not attempting to blanket statement anything, or find any clear-cut answers. But I figured that there’s likely a wealth of experienced members here that have something to say about the above questions.
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Old 24 February 2021, 04:35 AM   #2
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I established a purchase history with two AD's in my area. It went no where. It's been 4 months and never got the call/ text. I blame 2021 inventory levels.
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Old 24 February 2021, 04:40 AM   #3
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I would expect the Rolex inventory to be centralized. The Sales Associates from each store will advocate to ownership (or ops manager) why their client should be allowed to purchase a particular reference when they come in. Ownership will review purchase history to ascertain if using scare inventory on this customer will result in continual purchases. If yes, the watch sale is approved. If not, then that SA request is denied and the reference would be offered to a more “worthy” client.
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Old 24 February 2021, 04:44 AM   #4
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I think it depends on how the store operates. My friend owns a store that has accounts with vendors but the account is only with the main store. He essentially has a "flag-ship" store that receives all the product and distributes to his branches all around the area. My guess is that a smaller community store would have to operate like that until they get big enough for each of the stores to each have their own account with Rolex.
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Old 24 February 2021, 05:41 AM   #5
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Many here will not agree, and of course differents stores have their own policies, but I believe finding a SA you click with is the first step. I bought my first watch, an Oris, from my current SA in 1997. He has since worked at several stores in the area but I have always kept in touch. He’s rewarding my loyalty by keeping me on his personal list of “good clients.” At my the current AD, amount of spending history is not the first or only criteria. My only three purchases from this Rolex only store dating back to late 2017 have all been high demand SS Professional models and all I’ve had to do is ask and wait a bit.
So OP, visit the stores in person and see who you connect with. Once you have that you will get more honest answers as to how that AD operates.
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Old 24 February 2021, 05:47 AM   #6
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I established a purchase history with two AD's in my area. It went no where. It's been 4 months and never got the call/ text. I blame 2021 inventory levels.
What are you waiting for exactly, and how deep is your history with them? Not sure if that's too much info to share, but to me, 4 months doesn't sound too long, if you're willing to go down the AD route without significant prior spend.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:28 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by ArtNouveau View Post
Many here will not agree, and of course differents stores have their own policies, but I believe finding a SA you click with is the first step. I bought my first watch, an Oris, from my current SA in 1997. He has since worked at several stores in the area but I have always kept in touch. He’s rewarding my loyalty by keeping me on his personal list of “good clients.” At my the current AD, amount of spending history is not the first or only criteria. My only three purchases from this Rolex only store dating back to late 2017 have all been high demand SS Professional models and all I’ve had to do is ask and wait a bit.
So OP, visit the stores in person and see who you connect with. Once you have that you will get more honest answers as to how that AD operates.
I think this is generally good advice.

I believe (but could be wrong) that ADs like Watches of Switzerland and Tourneau do not share inventory across stores, but that purchase history with the AD generally goes into your overall profile. So, for example, if you move from Chicago to NYC and your Chicago AD was Tourneau, you aren't starting from the ground floor in NYC. But if you establish a relationship with the Bryant Park Tourneau and tell them you want a Pepsi, you probably won't get it if it comes into the Tourneau Time Machine store which is about 10-15 blocks away.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:33 AM   #8
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Pick the location which is most convenient for you and set up an appointment with the store manager to share what you want to accomplish.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:50 AM   #9
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I would expect the Rolex inventory to be centralized. The Sales Associates from each store will advocate to ownership (or ops manager) why their client should be allowed to purchase a particular reference when they come in. Ownership will review purchase history to ascertain if using scare inventory on this customer will result in continual purchases. If yes, the watch sale is approved. If not, then that SA request is denied and the reference would be offered to a more “worthy” client.
This is the answer. Ownership reviews spend history and approves SS/hot model purchases.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:54 AM   #10
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I think this is generally good advice.

I believe (but could be wrong) that ADs like Watches of Switzerland and Tourneau do not share inventory across stores, but that purchase history with the AD generally goes into your overall profile. So, for example, if you move from Chicago to NYC and your Chicago AD was Tourneau, you aren't starting from the ground floor in NYC. But if you establish a relationship with the Bryant Park Tourneau and tell them you want a Pepsi, you probably won't get it if it comes into the Tourneau Time Machine store which is about 10-15 blocks away.
I would disagree. Tourneau in NYC will get a shipment of Rolex watches to one location, a headquarter, then divvy them up to their stores. Otherwise Rolex would be drop shipping to multiple Tourneau in the NYC area.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:55 AM   #11
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I established a purchase history with two AD's in my area. It went no where. It's been 4 months and never got the call/ text. I blame 2021 inventory levels.
I have been waiting for 2 years and I haven't gotten the call yet and I don't mind sharing spend specifics:

I have $70k spend at my primary ad including two PM Rolex's. diamonds etc.

$10k spend at secondary including diamonds and a Panerai.

$10k at my 3rd AD. Submariner.

I would say 4 months aint bad, but I don't know your spend. If you dropped $100k in 5 months, then yeah I would expect something. If your spend was relatively minor, then I would say to expect a longer term scenario.

There are few threads on here (I created one) that discuss spend threshold and time before you got the call. Interesting read.
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Old 24 February 2021, 06:58 AM   #12
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I think you will find not all companies operate the same way. Some ADs with multiple locations may have centralized databases easily accessible to sales reps and others may not. I don't think we should take what we think makes the most sense and assume it applies to all businesses.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:01 AM   #13
Sub*Man
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Originally Posted by ArtNouveau View Post
Many here will not agree, and of course differents stores have their own policies, but I believe finding a SA you click with is the first step. I bought my first watch, an Oris, from my current SA in 1997. He has since worked at several stores in the area but I have always kept in touch. He’s rewarding my loyalty by keeping me on his personal list of “good clients.” At my the current AD, amount of spending history is not the first or only criteria. My only three purchases from this Rolex only store dating back to late 2017 have all been high demand SS Professional models and all I’ve had to do is ask and wait a bit.
So OP, visit the stores in person and see who you connect with. Once you have that you will get more honest answers as to how that AD operates.
This would be a severe anomaly, if not outright impossible in the current market. This is an incredible story, considering you're in Houston too. Major market, lots and lots of serious wealth.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:03 AM   #14
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I've had a frank conversation with my local AD that I have known for about 10 years and made a few purchases.

From what they tell me there are a couple of factors they consider in deciding which customers to 'allocate' watches to.

Purchase history is definitely one. I was told that they have a customer who has spent 7 figures and they definitely get preferential treatment.

Realistically all businesses reward their higher spending clients. Look at airlines!

The other consideration is that the AD definitely tries to limit the flippers.

However, I imagine that if you're spending 7 figures, you can get the SS models and flip them.

This is also obvious by the 'new' models being advertised on our local watch sales site.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:08 AM   #15
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Makes sense
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:21 AM   #16
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I have been waiting for 2 years and I haven't gotten the call yet and I don't mind sharing spend specifics:

I have $70k spend at my primary ad including two PM Rolex's. diamonds etc.

$10k spend at secondary including diamonds and a Panerai.

$10k at my 3rd AD. Submariner.

I would say 4 months aint bad, but I don't know your spend. If you dropped $100k in 5 months, then yeah I would expect something. If your spend was relatively minor, then I would say to expect a longer term scenario.

There are few threads on here (I created one) that discuss spend threshold and time before you got the call. Interesting read.
Damn, that's pretty serious cheddar.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:29 AM   #17
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I would disagree. Tourneau in NYC will get a shipment of Rolex watches to one location, a headquarter, then divvy them up to their stores. Otherwise Rolex would be drop shipping to multiple Tourneau in the NYC area.
Perhaps we are speaking past each other. I am simply saying that Tourneau stores in NYC do not "share inventory." So, if one store has a piece, it doesn't send it to another store. I have been told this explicitly by an SA at Tourneau.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:42 AM   #18
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I think it comes down to out of sight, out of mind. The last person remembered asking about a model gets the watch unless it is a Daytona, Hulk or Pepsi. Those are reserved for the ultra spenders as prizes for spending so much $$$$$$.

I got to a point where I would randomly call AD across the US. I found a sub a couple of years ago and flew from GA to TX to purchase my watch. I considered myself pretty lucky. If you are waiting on one or two AD, it might be a long time before you hit the lottery. Crazy world where it is so difficult to purchase a new SS professional watch.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:51 AM   #19
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I have been waiting for 2 years and I haven't gotten the call yet and I don't mind sharing spend specifics:

I have $70k spend at my primary ad including two PM Rolex's. diamonds etc.

$10k spend at secondary including diamonds and a Panerai.

$10k at my 3rd AD. Submariner.

I would say 4 months aint bad, but I don't know your spend. If you dropped $100k in 5 months, then yeah I would expect something. If your spend was relatively minor, then I would say to expect a longer term scenario.

There are few threads on here (I created one) that discuss spend threshold and time before you got the call. Interesting read.
Dropped $90k and have not gotten any other allocation piece besides a Submariner? Have you requested anything? $70k should get you a Pepsi call I'd think, or maybe a Cermit and another steel watch. Maybe not quite a Daytona but I wouldn't rule that out either.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:55 AM   #20
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I think it comes down to out of sight, out of mind. The last person remembered asking about a model gets the watch unless it is a Daytona, Hulk or Pepsi. Those are reserved for the ultra spenders as prizes for spending so much $$$$$$.

I got to a point where I would randomly call AD across the US. I found a sub a couple of years ago and flew from GA to TX to purchase my watch. I considered myself pretty lucky. If you are waiting on one or two AD, it might be a long time before you hit the lottery. Crazy world where it is so difficult to purchase a new SS professional watch.
My wife went to a jewelry store today who has another location that is a Rolex AD. They quoted getting two BLNRs a year! They said they don't keep a list longer than 10 people. The deck is certainly stacked against you if you don't want to go Gray.
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Old 24 February 2021, 07:59 AM   #21
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Dropped $90k and have not gotten any other allocation piece besides a Submariner? Have you requested anything? $70k should get you a Pepsi call I'd think, or maybe a Cermit and another steel watch. Maybe not quite a Daytona but I wouldn't rule that out either.
I'm guessing it would depend on how many bigger spenders are ahead of you.

$90k would be 'small change' for some.
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:05 AM   #22
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all good points above. I have 3 very good AD relationships and my opinion is I think it is a mix of business history but i think more so, as someone else pointed out, "clicking" with an SA. And then being present in their mind without being annoying. I find it easier to build rapport and connection when the AD has other interesting brands to discuss as well and you can spend some time in the store talking watches beyond Rolex - probably makes it more engaging for them than the unrelenting talk about Rolex.

I have spent over $50k with my primary AD over the past two years, about $5k of that is on jewelry for my wife, rest on Rolex (SubND, Batman, ExpII, CHNR, and Exp 1) and have finally asked for the Pepsi recently. I felt I wasn't worthy of a Pepsi with this modest spend history and fact that its mostly entirely of desirable sports pieces. I only brought it up b/c when i was picking up the CHNR, my SA asked me "what's next? a Pepsi? So I figured I'd shoot my shot as they say.

Usually, they entertain me pretty seriously when I inquire about a piece but when I mentioned the Pepsi a few weeks back, my SA (who I would consider a friend at this point) was kind of evasive and vague in their response. Usually they are very clear that I'm in line or on the list. I think right now (literally this moment) with inventory down (COVID) and demand way up for anything SS (even 36mm DJ), its going to be very difficult if not impossible for the regular watch collector to get the usual suspects (GMT, Daytona, etc).
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:07 AM   #23
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I have been waiting for 2 years and I haven't gotten the call yet and I don't mind sharing spend specifics:

I have $70k spend at my primary ad including two PM Rolex's. diamonds etc.

$10k spend at secondary including diamonds and a Panerai.

$10k at my 3rd AD. Submariner.

I would say 4 months aint bad, but I don't know your spend. If you dropped $100k in 5 months, then yeah I would expect something. If your spend was relatively minor, then I would say to expect a longer term scenario.

There are few threads on here (I created one) that discuss spend threshold and time before you got the call. Interesting read.
Holy cow! If that’s based on Charlotte area AD’s then I don’t stand a chance here! Was going to drop $20K+ on a ring for my wife and see if that could get me a BLRO. The AD “only sells the finest, untreated gems”, but doesn’t have certifications on the gemstones. Sounds like I just need to go gray...
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:09 AM   #24
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I agree that it's best to first find an SA that you click with. And the first step in doing so is to find the store that actually sells the pieces you would be interested in. Having a purchase history under the same company/chain will likely help, but it is probably equally if not more important that you have an SA that goes to bat for you to management (unless you happen to befriend a manager/owner).

If it is a Rolex you are after, go to the exact store that sells Rolex and work from there. What would be best is if you genuinely have interest in some other non-Rolex model. Mention that to the SA at the store you are talking to, and if another store under their network has it, they can have it ordered for you.
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:14 AM   #25
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I have a question?

If people are prepared to spend thousands to establish a buying history with an AD, perhaps purchasing pieces (or jewelry) that they don't particularly want, why not spend that same cash and buy their desired watch NOW from a grey dealer?
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:15 AM   #26
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Ok here is how it works at my AD. They have more than five stores. Once an SA deems you worthy of a certain piece they submit your name to the owners. If the owners find you are the kind of customer that deserves such item they put you in line. When your number comes up. The piece is yours. It's really the best way to handle pieces in such demand from my point of view. If it just came down to random luck then flippers would constantly circle the rolex counters like vultures searching for scraps.
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:26 AM   #27
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I have a question?

If people are prepared to spend thousands to establish a buying history with an AD, perhaps purchasing pieces (or jewelry) that they don't particularly want, why not spend that same cash and buy their desired watch NOW from a grey dealer?
That all depends on how your taste and appreciation develops as you immerse yourself in a certain world. Take cars for instance. Anyone with enough money can buy a Mclaren 720s. Twin turbo V8, hella horsepower. Too fast for the street. A common man's appreciation of this vehicle would be severely limited if this was his first sports car. I would recommend a miata first. Learn how to drive, get the feel for controlling the car, then buy a cayman or 911 and appreciate that for a while while learning how to push the car. Once you've mastered that then go try a Hurracan or Gallardo, this way once you get the best you actually have some reference to why it's the best. The same can be applied to wine, denim, whiskey, if you don't have the developed palate for it then your appreciation potential will be limited and you will be oblivious to it. To just look at the situation as simply as I want rolex and nothing else, in my opinion is narrow minded and I wonder if most of the people wearing them really have a grasp on truly appreciating what is on their wrists.
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Old 24 February 2021, 08:42 AM   #28
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That all depends on how your taste and appreciation develops as you immerse yourself in a certain world. Take cars for instance. Anyone with enough money can buy a Mclaren 720s. Twin turbo V8, hella horsepower. Too fast for the street. A common man's appreciation of this vehicle would be severely limited if this was his first sports car. I would recommend a miata first. Learn how to drive, get the feel for controlling the car, then buy a cayman or 911 and appreciate that for a while while learning how to push the car. Once you've mastered that then go try a Hurracan or Gallardo, this way once you get the best you actually have some reference to why it's the best. The same can be applied to wine, denim, whiskey, if you don't have the developed palate for it then your appreciation potential will be limited and you will be oblivious to it. To just look at the situation as simply as I want rolex and nothing else, in my opinion is narrow minded and I wonder if most of the people wearing them really have a grasp on truly appreciating what is on their wrists.
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Old 24 February 2021, 10:09 AM   #29
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I have a question?

If people are prepared to spend thousands to establish a buying history with an AD, perhaps purchasing pieces (or jewelry) that they don't particularly want, why not spend that same cash and buy their desired watch NOW from a grey dealer?

Because I expect to collect many pieces from my AD over a long period of time. Including pieces that are not as popular. I don’t have to have that particular piece right now.

My AD has delivered so far, and I expect my relationship with them to deepen and strengthen as the years pass.

That suits me very well, and them. And people who don’t want to should just go grey.

All the angsting is just ridiculous. Everyone has a choice. Behaving like grounded teenagers.


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Old 24 February 2021, 10:18 AM   #30
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The best way might be buy a gift certificate for your next 3 purchases. Maybe $50,000 gift certificate?

Perhaps the AD would freeze the MSRP for those 3 wish list watches. It’d be like a hedge against inflation and a proof-of-commitment.

I mean like the engagement ring one gives to the prospective spouse.


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