1030 movement for everyday?

[one80]

I love the look and history of vintage watches (particularly Rolex's).

What is everyone's thoughts on have a watch with a 1030 for everyday wear?
Does this movement need to much upkeep?
I've heard that some of the parts are getting more and more difficult to source?

This would b just usual wear - nothing too "active" etc.

[Tools]

There are plenty of clocks and watches that are older than anybody on the Forum that are functioning just fine.

Any mechanical movement will be as good as, or better, than when it was originally made if the parts are sound and within tolerance.

Yes, parts are getting hard to find for some movements, but there are frequently aftermarket manufacturers who do make parts for many of the high-wear parts. Others can be hand made by a good watchmaker.

Wearing vintage is simply knowing your risks, keeping seals and parts sound, and determining what you want out of your experience. Some vintage is just to rare and valuable to even wear; most watches are not at that level.

[Dan S]

Every vintage watch requires upkeep and parts are getting harder to find for all of them. Life is short, wear the watches that give you joy. Have them serviced regularly and don't obsess about hypothetical problems that may or may not happen far down the road. Yes, the cal 1030 has some parts that tend to wear out, but all things considered, you are talking about an incredibly common movement from a vintage/antique perspective. If you need something, chances are it can be found. Compared to some of my watches with much more obscure movements, my vintage Rolexes are not high on my list of things to worry about.

[77T]

If you’d be buying a model with a 1030 inside now, and for value, an OP with the 1030 is less costly than Submariner and Explorer references (65xx and 66xx).

The thing about those last two is how you’d feel if significant damage happened and a case swap was only remedy. So much value would vanish in a heartbeat.

Also, maybe consider buying one or two working spare 1030’s as a parts bin or swappable caliber. This could mitigate your concern about an authentic parts supply.


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[Gaz1A]

Someone was selling 1030 on the parts thread no? Check it out.

[R.W.T.]

The 1030 was a revolutionary movement. Many watchmakers hate it. If it is working correctly it is a wonderful machine. I have a 6610 that runs flawlessly. It always has and likely always will. Unlike the modern calibres...in the 3xxx range...these movements don't wear out parts...generally unless you just run them into the ground. They often were run into the ground and that is the issue now. Barrels wear. Bushings in the main plate and barrel bridge wear. If you actually have your watch serviced...this becomes almost minimal. I wear 620s-775's for daily wear...you haven't been able to buy any parts for those since the 70s. You accept some wear in those watches. But they too if anyone ever bothered to have them cleaned don't really wear appreciably...except in the earlier automatic sections with no jewels or bushings. 1030 based movements have a couple of flaws. Rolex corrected the biggest one which was the sole plate. The reversing wheels just wore away the nickel and into the brass. That lovely brass film mixed with oil...was like glue. They made a microscopically thin steel plate to slip in between and voile' ... no more wear. The reversers require a bit more lubrication than modern reversers. If you don't have the watch cleaned or if it sets up because you don't wear it...the oil gets very gummy and then they don't work. They are VERY hard to clean out. I sometimes have to run them through the cleaning machine multiple times...I have a few secrets..but you know they are working correctly when there is very little resistance in the hand winding. Upper rotor jewels break if the watch gets slammed. It's a VERY costly part and VERY hard to source. Don't bang your watch around. It's a Rolex not a Tonka Truck. If you DON'T clean your watch and the reversers get so gummed up that they hang...the rotor engages when you are hand winding it. The crown wheel is very brittle and you will sheer all of the teeth off of it. The winding pinion is also a wear point. This is probably the biggest issue because they are okay and okay and okay and then...they don't work at all. But you don't really hand wind that watch that much either....but when the auto section doesn't work properly...due to lack of maintenance...people resort to hand winding...and they wear the pinion out...or they strip the teeth of the crown gear.

It's not a 1530-1570....but it's a very good movement.

We always likened these to ford engines.

Early hand wind....Aegler Calibres....Model T 4 cylinder.
Early automatics 620-775 Flathead V8
1030-1065 292 - 312 Overhead Valve V8
1530-1565 260 overhead valve V8
1570-1575 289 V8
1570-1575 hacking....302 V8
3035-3085 modular V8

A 312 may not be a 289 - 302 but it's a damned sight of an improvement over a Flathead.

I will also add that one of the BIGGEST problems with vintage watches is the same with vintage cars. People don't wear/drive them consistently. If you drive a 65 mustang every single day like it is your only car....it runs really great with very little maintenance...you drive it once a month...and you're gonna have problems. The same with an older watch. If you buy a 1030 equipped watch, have it properly serviced and wear it every day...and don't wear other watches all the time...it will give VERY little problem. I ran a 6536-1 for a daily driver for 5 or 6 years. No issues.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by R.W.T.

The 1030 was a revolutionary movement. Many watchmakers hate it. If it is working correctly it is a wonderful machine. I have a 6610 that runs flawlessly. It always has and likely always will. Unlike the modern calibres...in the 3xxx range...these movements don't wear out parts...generally unless you just run them into the ground. They often were run into the ground and that is the issue now. Barrels wear. Bushings in the main plate and barrel bridge wear. If you actually have your watch serviced...this becomes almost minimal. I wear 620s-775's for daily wear...you haven't been able to buy any parts for those since the 70s. You accept some wear in those watches. But they too if anyone ever bothered to have them cleaned don't really wear appreciably...except in the earlier automatic sections with no jewels or bushings. 1030 based movements have a couple of flaws. Rolex corrected the biggest one which was the sole plate. The reversing wheels just wore away the nickel and into the brass. That lovely brass film mixed with oil...was like glue. They made a microscopically thin steel plate to slip in between and voile' ... no more wear. The reversers require a bit more lubrication than modern reversers. If you don't have the watch cleaned or if it sets up because you don't wear it...the oil gets very gummy and then they don't work. They are VERY hard to clean out. I sometimes have to run them through the cleaning machine multiple times...I have a few secrets..but you know they are working correctly when there is very little resistance in the hand winding. Upper rotor jewels break if the watch gets slammed. It's a VERY costly part and VERY hard to source. Don't bang your watch around. It's a Rolex not a Tonka Truck. If you DON'T clean your watch and the reversers get so gummed up that they hang...the rotor engages when you are hand winding it. The crown wheel is very brittle and you will sheer all of the teeth off of it. The winding pinion is also a wear point. This is probably the biggest issue because they are okay and okay and okay and then...they don't work at all. But you don't really hand wind that watch that much either....but when the auto section doesn't work properly...due to lack of maintenance...people resort to hand winding...and they wear the pinion out...or they strip the teeth of the crown gear.

It's not a 1530-1570....but it's a very good movement.

We always likened these to ford engines.

Early hand wind....Aegler Calibres....Model T 4 cylinder.
Early automatics 620-775 Flathead V8
1030-1065 292 - 312 Overhead Valve V8
1530-1565 260 overhead valve V8
1570-1575 289 V8
1570-1575 hacking....302 V8
3035-3085 modular V8

A 312 may not be a 289 - 302 but it's a damned sight of an improvement over a Flathead.

I will also add that one of the BIGGEST problems with vintage watches is the same with vintage cars. People don't wear/drive them consistently. If you drive a 65 mustang every single day like it is your only car....it runs really great with very little maintenance...you drive it once a month...and you're gonna have problems. The same with an older watch. If you buy a 1030 equipped watch, have it properly serviced and wear it every day...and don't wear other watches all the time...it will give VERY little problem. I ran a 6536-1 for a daily driver for 5 or 6 years. No issues.

Recenly bought 6605 with mov.1066.Crown wheel missing and its very hard to find the part.Just wondering is the parts between cal 11xx and 10xx are interchangeable?

[R.W.T.]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Recenly bought 6605 with mov.1066.Crown wheel missing and its very hard to find the part.Just wondering is the parts between cal 11xx and 10xx are interchangeable?

No not interchangeable. There are a few on eBay...but they are expensive.

It's a 250.00 part today. If you find one for less it's a decent deal.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by R.W.T.

No not interchangeable. There are a few on eBay...but they are expensive.

It's a 250.00 part today. If you find one for less it's a decent deal.

Thank you for the info.Will buy one from ebay.Cheers