Help me a pick a high-end "dressy" watch - Lange? VC? Something else?

[Eapfep]

Hi all, I'd love to get some recommendations on a dressy watch between $20K-$30k!

My (small but hopefully diverse) current collection consists of the following:

• Rolex BLNR on Jubilee
• Omega Seamaster 300M White Wave Dial
• Glashutte Original PanomaticLunar Blue Dial

My personal philosophy for the last few years has been to never let my collection outgrow my 3-slot watch roll (+ one on the wrist), so I'm now on the hunt for something truly special to celebrate both becoming a father and getting my MBA next year.

A couple of criteria:

• <$30K USD, I'm selling a watch or two (not listed above in my main collection) to fund this
• Stealthy - so white gold / stainless steel and nothing that is auspicious or draws undue attention
• I think I have my sports watch needs covered, so looking for something that fills a similar role as my GO - dressy but not necessarily a true dress watch
• White / Silver dial so I can have two dark and two light dials in my collection
• Has some visual "interest", I have a history of getting bored of plain white dial dress watches and flipping
• <50mm lug-to-lug

Pieces I've been considering:

• Lange 1815 Up Down in WG
• Lange Saxonia Outsized Date in WG
• Lange Sax-o-Mat 308.025 Platinum
• Vacheron Constantin Historique Triple Calendar in SS
• Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Small Seconds in WG

But I would love to get this group's very knowledgeable thoughts!

[jed11]

Great collection as is…and any of those that you mentioned would be a great addition.
While in most cases, I would recommend a Lange with the iconic outsize date, given that you already have a GO with a “similar” big date look/complication, I think the 1815 up down would be a good choice.

The VC option is great as well but I’m personally not a fan of a pointer date layout.


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[Nav01L]

Lange is certainly a great choice, but the truly interesting ones in white gold have all slipped over 30k.

I would try to find an Urban Jurgensen or take a VC Traditionelle Small Seconds, albeit in rose gold.

Patek 6119g is also a fantastic choice, if you can be lenient on your dial color preferences and can get one at the AD.

Breguet Classique 7147 with grand feu dial is also a very attractive option.

The total insider tip that nobody is currently thinking about but that’s probably the coolest watch of all that could be listed in that bracket is the Jules Audemars chrono. If you can live without a display back, you can find one in good condition for 12-13k.

[_speedmaster_]

Lang & Heyne Friedrich
Breguet 7787 (Grey market price)
Schwartz Etienne Roma Synergy (this would be my personal pick given your constraints). Might have to act quick though, limited run that is almost gone

[JR16]

Lange One or 1815 u/s would be my pick !


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[moting]

Lange 1815 U/D, very elegant, versatile, strap monster.

[Justindo]

Your current three watch collection is really well thought out but a high horology dress watch does seem to be missing.

ALS and VC are two of my favorite brands so I don't think you'd go wrong with any of those on your list. However, especially considering that you have a GO big date, the three standouts on your list are the ALS 1815 Up-Down and the two VCs.

Lange has better movement finishing than VC but VC has nicer cases, especially the 1942 Historiques with the lovely gadroons on the case sides. The 1942 offers the most complications for the money and the red version would fit nicely in your collection but the three hands look a bit similar and are a bit narrow, which makes it a little difficult to read at a glance. You also might be craving a precious metal watch, which the 1942 does not offer, even though it's a great value. The Traditionnelle in white gold is a lovely piece and is probably the dressiest of those on your list and yet it can be easily dressed down too. It would certainly be a fine choice and I love my pink gold version.

All that written, I would probably lean toward the ALS Up-Down, even though it's the most expensive. The movement is stellar and the watch feels substantial on the wrist. You also might consider the 1815 Annual Calendar, which adds additional useful complications and a lovely moonphase, although, again, it's, obviously, even more expensive than the Up-Down.

[SoylentGreenChi]

All of your current options are strong ones, and the advice on thread is also terrific (great forum!).

ALS (several options here already mentioned, so I’ll add the ALS Saxonia Automatic as an option). VC Traditionelle is spectacular, particularly in white gold. Impossible to find at AD’s now, but available in the preowned market.

If it were my choice, I’d go with the new Patek 6119. Can’t go wrong with a Calatrava, and this one has a much improved movement.

Good luck!


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[scarlet knight]

I like my now discontinued Patek Calatrava 5119j


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[illiguy]

Pp 5196

[7sins]

Lots of great options already mentioned, I am particularly biased towards Breguet and ALS. I would also look into Jaeger-LeCoultre. JLC is A LOT of bang for your buck. Under 30k gets you a pre-owned perpetual or Duometre Lunaire or a complicated reverso.

[Nav01L]

Originally Posted by Justindo

Lange has better movement finishing than VC but VC has nicer cases, especially the 1942 Historiques with the lovely gadroons on the case.

Not sure that I’d necessarily agree with that, and I say this as a Lange owner, who no longer has a VC. I would say Lange tends to have more “spectacular” finish in terms of what you get to look at. VC is more quietly excellent, more thoroughly made the way things ought to be made (in Genevean watchmaking). So far, I have found none of the big brands that consistently reaches the level of quality Vacheron offers from the very basic movements like the 4400 upwards. Especially something like the 4400 is certainly more refined than what Lange has to offer in that tier.

As for the cases, chances are both would have been made at Efteor, which certainly makes lots of the Lange cases and I believe the ones for the VC triple calendar too.

[Jay (Eire)]

L&H Friedrich III or the entry level Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic (hand wound, not the micro rotor everyone loves, but Titanium case which adds something to your line up).

[Eapfep]

These thoughtful and fabulous recommendations are exactly why I come back to this forum time and time again, thank you all!

Definitely feeling the VC Traditionelle, 1815 U/P but this thread has also piqued my interest in the new Calatrava and that lovely Laurent Ferrier..

[cm13]

Unless I missed a part of the criteria, I'd point towards a JLC Reverso Tribute Duoface.

You listed great options, but the art-deco styling and two faces would help with you not getting bored.

[willywatch]

Lange by a mile,they make the best finished factory made watches
you can buy today.Any Patek or VC is always going to be second best.

[scarlet knight]

Now for something different…



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[HHIslander]

I’d suggest looking at the JLC Master Control line, lots of bang for the buck.

[Ohiorolex]

How about a Preowned platinum Cartier. They have limited editions and from ~1998-2007 collection privee. Beautiful watches that you won’t see on any of your friends’ wrists.

[Jay (Eire)]

Originally Posted by Ohiorolex

How about a Preowned platinum Cartier. They have limited editions and from ~1998-2007 collection privee. Beautiful watches that you won’t see on any of your friends’ wrists.

Way too hot of a market at the moment. Some really interesting pieces however, but the pricing is scary.

[Jay (Eire)]

Originally Posted by Eapfep

These thoughtful and fabulous recommendations are exactly why I come back to this forum time and time again, thank you all!

Definitely feeling the VC Traditionelle, 1815 U/P but this thread has also piqued my interest in the new Calatrava and that lovely Laurent Ferrier..

Also, there are other dials on the L&H and maybe with both of these there’s a discussion to be had about a custom dial. It’s worth asking.

And the L&H is also done with a different (somewhat more contemporary) hand set.

[csong825]

All these votes for a Lange and no pics? I am biased but I also vote for the U/D. WG is definitely more versatile but there’s just something about Lange’s pink gold when you see it in person. Agree with previous post that Lange’s finishing is a notch above entry level VC and PP when you compare them side by side but this may not apply to the new Calatrava. Laurent Ferrier is another great option.




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[illiguy]

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[jed11]

Devils advocate here…



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[Eapfep]

Originally Posted by jed11

Devils advocate here…



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I'm drooling...

What pains me about my GO PML is that it is a lovely piece but it's almost like a placeholder in my collection for when I can upgrade to a Lange 1

[Cabaiguan]

The 1815 is so good.

[jed11]

Originally Posted by Eapfep

I'm drooling...

What pains me about my GO PML is that it is a lovely piece but it's almost like a placeholder in my collection for when I can upgrade to a Lange 1

Don't get me wrong, the GO is a lovely piece but you said it yourself...it feels like a 'placeholder'.....
Again, devils advocate here....what if you sold the GO and go Lange One? I have no idea what kind of money you would get on the GO and in the end, I am confident that route would still cost more $$$ than just adding an 1815. But if the GO is merely a placeholder at this point in the collection, why not consider it? Throw all of this out the window of course if you like the 1815 more or if you like having the 1815/GO combo more than having one Lange One.

[SoylentGreenChi]

Originally Posted by Jay (Eire)

L&H Friedrich III or the entry level Laurent Ferrier Galet Classic (hand wound, not the micro rotor everyone loves, but Titanium case which adds something to your line up).

This advice is stellar, going to take this to heart myself. Love L&H as well as Laurent Ferrier (that LF reference in particular). What a great forum!

[moting]

Originally Posted by moting

Lange 1815 U/D, very elegant, versatile, strap monster.

To illustrate :)

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[gliazzurri]

Agreed. 1815 u/d can be a casual or dress watch. It’s a great option. I daily it mostly but also weekends when more leisure oriented.