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#1 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 238
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7206 Rivet Bracelet - Sources and Cautions
I’m looking for a rivet link 7206 bracelet with 58 (?) end links for my Explorer 1016 I bought new in May, 1967. I still have one original link removed when sized. Over the years it’s been on a USA Jubilee B-219 (undated) with 50 end links and a Swiss Made 9315 Oyster with 380 end links, both I bought new and still have.
Of interest, the 9315 has the watch serial number hand engraved inside the adjustable side of the clasp. Maybe that was done when serviced back in the day? I look here on TRF and WatchRecon without luck so advice on other sources and cautions to avoid fakes and fraken-bracelets would be much appreciated. |
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#2 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
Posts: 231
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I have one, but sadly it’s not for sale. I picked it up when I bought my 5504 dated 1-64. They can be found, but you need to know what you’re looking for when buying these. Way too many Vietnam fakes out there.
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Colorado, USA
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I suspect that we are all looking for them. Personally, I buy every one I can get at a decent price. They are fantastic bracelets.
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@oldwatchdan on IG |
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#4 |
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#5 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
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Quote:
Concur Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#6 |
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Andy & Everett - so maybe I'm looking for the wrong bracelet. I'm pretty sure the link is from my original bracelet as it's been in under the box cushion all these years. I just found the RolexHaven website with various descriptions, including C&Is used from 1958-1978. It's a good thing I saved the link (along with everything else: hang tag, purchase receipt, etc.) and it, together with with your observation, may have saved me from buying and expensive - and wrong - 7206. Further thoughts and source suggestions most welcome. David
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#7 |
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There is no comparison between the C&I and the Swiss rivet bracelets. IMO the 7206 is worth the extra cost. Do you really want to buy a crappy bracelet that doesn't fit the watch well just because it was the style that was originally on your watch? It still won't be the same (original) bracelet.
(Apologies to fans of C&I bracelets. I have had some, but I don't prefer them.)
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#8 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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@oldwatchdan on IG |
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#9 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
Posts: 231
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Sorry brother, my fault, it’s a 7206. I was thinking of the expandable ref.
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#10 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
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Quote:
Absolutely. C&Is are crap. No apologies here, it’s a fact. ;) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#11 |
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C&I Bracelets: One Size, Fits Nothing
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#12 |
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Location: Wine Country, Ca
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A 7206 (58), 6636 (58) and even a 7836 (280) are all correct for a 1967 1016. You just have to decide how much you want to spend with the 7206 being the most expensive of the 3.
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#13 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
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7206 Rivet Bracelet - Sources and Cautions
Quote:
It’s really ironic that I bought the 5504 just for the 7206 (58). I plan on putting it on my 66 7928 Sub. I’ll throw the 5504 on a Hodinkee Horween; it should look great. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Japan
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I'd much rather put the rivet bracelet in the safe and wear a modern equivalent.
The watches these rivet versions came on are now far too expensive to wear with such a flimsy bracelet that could fall apart at any time. The rivet bracelet on my 1964 gilt 5513 did break last year while I was wearing it. The watch fell off my wrist and I didn't notice. The only reason I didn't lose it was that I was at home in lockdown. If I'd been outside... ![]() I got lucky. Go modern. ![]() |
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#15 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2021
Real Name: Keith
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Watch: 60s to 90s
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Quote:
Here’s one on C24 that may interest you. No affiliation to me just sharing what you asked for. https://www.chrono24.com/rolex/brace...id21904544.htm ![]() |
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#16 |
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Real Name: Matt
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$2900 and they dont even give you all of the links
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#17 |
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Yep agreed, but I’m not buying for the OP.
He asked for options out there and I provided one that doesn’t look like it was made in someones garage yesterday. Missing parts can definitely provide more negotiation room for the right buyer. |
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#18 |
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Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Japan
Posts: 4,367
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Yes, that's the problem with these rivet bracelets. All the links are different widths, so if one is missing there's a big inter-link width difference and it doesn't look good. It's a huge step up/down.
I was a fan of these bracelets until I actually got one. I think it's in a sock somewhere now. ![]() |
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#19 |
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Back in 2014 I bought a Tudor 7020 with a 7206 attached. I bought It for like 250. Thé seller had no idea. Too bad I sold that 7206 for a grand a year later. Now I have a couple of watches I’d love to mate to that band. Easy come easy go
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#20 |
"TRF" Member
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Location: Japan
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#21 | |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
Posts: 231
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7206 Rivet Bracelet - Sources and Cautions
Quote:
You make a lot of sense in your statement. I ordered a couple of really cool vintage A.F. 0210 straps to wear my with my vintage Sub every day. However, I have had several 7206s , 6636s, a 9315, and even C&Is and wore them with gusto and never broke one. Now that the only 7206 I have is almost three grand, my thought process has changed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#22 |
"TRF" Member
Join Date: Dec 2021
Real Name: Everett
Location: Europe
Watch: Vintage only
Posts: 231
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I forgot to add. The OP wants this for his Explorer, which I believe is considerably lighter than, say, a 1680 or even a 5513. I have mine on my 5504, and the watch is so light that I hardly know that I’m wearing it. I guess you need to look at how and where you’re going to wear the watch and then decide. I do agree that Explorer would look über cool on a 7206!
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1986 Rolex 16750 GMT 1963 Rolex 5504 Air King 1966 Tudor 7928 Submariner Regards, Everett Two-Factor Authentication enabled |
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#23 |
2025 Pledge Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: USA
Posts: 238
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Thanks for all the replies. The depth of experience and advice here on TRF is as welcome as it is impressive.
This was my daily watch for 10 years and reading about the poor quality of its likely original C&I bracelet might explain why I replaced it with the USA Jubilee B-219, 8-70 after a few years - the C&I probably just wore out. Over the years it’s been mostly on the 9315 Oyster/diver link on it now and for safety and size I think I’ll keep it this way. However, it’s a family heirloom (with an adventure behind it) that my watch-collector sons and I enjoy wearing on special occasions. For those I would like to find a C&I to keep with it so we can appreciate first hand what it looked like on that 1967 day when I bought it. Are there markings, date stamps, etc. to help authenticate C&Is? PS: Of remotely related interest here’s a photo of the installation instructions inside the Jubilee case. |
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#24 | |
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Location: UK
Posts: 253
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Quote:
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